TFW’s workshop

[Caley Jim]

I can better that! I have a gold shell crown on LL6 done by a fellow student when we were in final year. (1968/9)

 

Jim

[CF MRC]

Valour now has two safety valves. The low shroud was made by soldering a piece of brass the correct thickness to a larger lump so that it could be held. The two holes were then drilled, the top milked out and the sides were filed to give the base effect. 

The shroud was then removed from the big block and two safety valves turned from a non-tarnishing metal. 

There is a nice casting available from N Brass, but it is a little bit big and doesn’t quite get the effect of the valves sitting inside the shroud.

..and the brass might tarnish...

Tim

Edited February 25, 2020 by CF MRC

[CF MRC]

I was a bit worried that the proportions of the safety valve shroud were not quite correct, but then found this photo of Butler Henderson 

There are some big sandboxes that are very visible behind the rear wheels. It is often easier to make things sweated together as the filing is more likely to be true.

Before they were split two holes were drilled in place, potentially for the sand pipes.

These holes were actually very useful for stabilising the boxes with a hand held tapered pin whilst soldering them in place.

I don’t think I will fit the sand pipes as they are live to the body, rather than the frames and they will stand a good chance of getting pranged.

The cab has also been detailed with the seat backs and firebox door now in place. 

 

Tim

Edited February 28, 2020 by CF MRC

[Ian Smith]

Tim,

Could you use a bristle from a plastic brush for the sand pipes? We used plastic bristles for the point levers in the yard on St Ruth. They happily bend out of the way when you catch them while track cleaning.

Ian

[Caley Jim]

I used 8 thou guitar wire (same as for point rodding) for the sand pipes on the Jubilee Pug. They are pretty strong, in fact, if anything they are a risk to your fingers! 

 

Jim

[CF MRC]

I might try some spring steel wire, Jim, but they have to know that if they cause trouble that the (old) Xurons are round the corner!

 

Tim

[Caley Jim]

I use my Maun No 6 cutters from 2nd year mechanics!  Still going strong after 54 years!  

 

Jim

[CF MRC]

Ditto, Jim, but few on here would know of them. 

Tim

[CF MRC]

The engine brake gear on Valour is now complete. The etches in the kit for the hangers were a bit fragile and weren’t quite the correct shape to have the shoes sit close to the wheels.   They were therefore used as a pattern by sweating them onto a double layer of 20 thou nickel silver. 

 

The lump was filed broadly to shape, having first drilled holes as required. 

 

Once separated, the rear hanger had the shoe etch attached with a pin. 

 

The middle brake has less detail and the front is only schematic - reflecting the visibility of these items behind the valve gear and motion support bracket.  They are supported by pins either attached to the chassis or the hangers themselves, ‘clipping into place’ through holes in the chassis or the hanger. 

 

The stretchers are made from thin PCB, gapped for insulation, whilst the longitudinal pull rod helps to locate the brakes in the correct fore and aft position.  

 

These brakes are semi-permanently fixed, as if they needed removal then more major work would also be indicated for the chassis. 
 

Tim

[Crosland]

NIce work!

 

When soldering bits on to a chassis like this, how do you keep everything else free of stray flux. Do you clean again after every operation or when you think it needs it?

 

This is not a criticism, but I am thinking the wheel treads are a bit grubby. Do you leave them like this and clean up at the end, before final assembly?

[CF MRC]

I use phosphoric acid flux, very sparingly, at this stage of construction.  All components are tinned beforehand.  The excess is wiped away after placement and the mechanism will then be given a wash After soldering.  If the mechanism is not in a washable state then I’ll use a red gel flux that is not acidic. The wheels are chemically blacked, hence that makes them look darker, but they are pretty crummy at the moment and will be cleaned up after painting.  One thing to bear in mind is that phosphoric acid is used as an anti-rust treatment for steel, but does of course lead to corrosion of base metals such as brass and n/s. Once it starts running on CF they will polish up significantly!

 

Tim

 

Edited March 4, 2020 by CF MRC

[CF MRC]

The guard irons at the front were made from one piece of 10 thou N/S bent into a staple shape and soldered behind the buffer beam, which also had two convenient slots to locate it.  Guess who made a mistake filing up the second guard iron on the first go.  The kit version is also visible, but this would have been soldered to the metal front frame extensions that I did not use. 

The irons had to be well forward to avoid clouting the bogie wheels.   

The front frames were made from a block of Tufnol which was Araldited onto the front assembly. The white axle muff is temporary.

Valour is nearly finished, apart from the tender brakes: I may be able to make and fit these at Missenden this weekend.  She will pass over to Ian Rathbone for painting as well, hopefully to be ready for the centenary of the entry to service of the engine in the summer.  Certainly to be running on CF at the 2mm Association's Diamond Jubilee event in Derby. 
 

Tim 

Edited March 6, 2020 by CF MRC

[gr.king]

I'm a definite fan of staple-shaped pairs of guard irons where possible, rather than single ones. Any trouble estimating the size and shape to which the initial strip should be cut, filed and bent at the first attempt is something that can be sorted out either by more filing once fitted, or by having a second go. The double irons are usually much easier to place and hold in position for soldering (or gluing and screwing on plastic or resin models) and it's easy to ensure that they end up really firmly attached. 

[CF MRC]

Association muffs on front bogie / pony wheels always look ugly.  On Mons Meg I fixed the front wheels with a fibre reinforced resin in a hollow stub axle.  Valour is the same. 

The 0.9 mm diameter fibre post is a material used for restoring endodontically treated teeth.  An anodised aluminium pin could work equally well - something perhaps the Association should consider offering. 

The wheels are Araldited on to the fibre post at the correct B to B with a collar of adhesive around the centre.  One could taper the axles to be more prototypical - I did this on Mons Meg - but this is probably a bit more robust. 
 

Tim

 

Edited March 6, 2020 by CF MRC

[bécasse]

45 minutes ago, CF MRC said:

Association muffs on front bogie / pony wheels always look ugly.  On Mons Meg I fixed the front wheels with a fibre reinforced resin in a hollow stub axle.  Valour is the same. 
 An anodised aluminium pin could work equally well - something perhaps the Association should consider offering. 

 

Peco Insulaxles you mean?

 

[CF MRC]

Three Valours at Missenden Abbey. The bigger ones being made by Tony Gee. 

Tim

[chris p bacon]

Knowing nothing about this loco, is there a reason why the dome is different on the OO version, or is it unfinished ? (looking at top of firebox)

[Kylestrome]

12 hours ago, CF MRC said:

Three Valours at Missenden Abbey.

 

They're all in the same livery too! 

[richard i]

2 hours ago, chris p bacon said:

Knowing nothing about this loco, is there a reason why the dome is different on the OO version, or is it unfinished ? (looking at top of firebox)

Going into gcr livery not lner and so had higher boiler fitting before lowering......perhaps. 

[CF MRC]

I think it was just placed on the 4mm version as a temporary fitting.  Valour is now 100%, totally & completely finished and in the hands of Ian Rathbone for painting. 
 

Tim

Edited March 8, 2020 by CF MRC

[t-b-g]

The 4 and 7mm locos are both unfinished. The dome and chimney on the 4mm one were robbed from a second hand Ks B2 which was originally bought as a possible Valour conversion. In the event, the new etches rendered the conversion redundant. I did keep the dome and chimney in case they could be used but the general feeling is that the chimney is too short and the dome too tall.

 

They were placed on for photographic purposes in the absence of anything else.

 

Seeing the three together, it just draws attention to how poor the chimney and dome on the 4mm one are.

 

It is high time I learned how to make a chimney and a dome on my little lathe and these will be a good one to try first.

 

I would add that seeing Tim's loco was the highlight of the weekend for me. Every once in a while I see some modelling that is truly inspirational and really makes me realise just what can be achieved in the hobby with well thought out and skilled workmanship.

 

"Little Valour" is such a model. 

 

To some people, it makes them want to give up. To me, it makes me want t try a little bit harder.

 

I look forward to seeing her painted and hauling the Pullman train on the layout. 

[2mmKiwi]

14 minutes ago, t-b-g said:

The 4 and 7mm locos are both unfinished. The dome and chimney on the 4mm one were robbed from a second hand Ks B2 which was originally bought as a possible Valour conversion. In the event, the new etches rendered the conversion redundant. I did keep the dome and chimney in case they could be used but the general feeling is that the chimney is too short and the dome too tall.

 

They were placed on for photographic purposes in the absence of anything else.

 

Seeing the three together, it just draws attention to how poor the chimney and dome on the 4mm one are.

 

It is high time I learned how to make a chimney and a dome on my little lathe and these will be a good one to try first.

 

I would add that seeing Tim's loco was the highlight of the weekend for me. Every once in a while I see some modelling that is truly inspirational and really makes me realise just what can be achieved in the hobby with well thought out and skilled workmanship.

 

"Little Valour" is such a model. 

 

To some people, it makes them want to give up. To me, it makes me want t try a little bit harder.

 

I look forward to seeing her painted and hauling the Pullman train on the layout. 

 

I agree with your thoughts. That Tim can produce a model in detail and quality in 2mm, that compares with the best in the larger scales is a remarkable demonstration of his skill. It's a wonderful thing for our scale that we have these modellers who are always pushing forward with what is possible and showing the way for the rest of us. It's always inspirational to follow his work.

[t-b-g]

Further to previous comments about the unfinished 4mm Valour, I have had the opportunity to check the chimney and dome and contrary to previous comments, the chimney is exactly the right height. The real one was 1' 3" and the model is 5mm, so that is close enough for me! I had a good look at it in photos from various angles and I would be very surprised if I could make one that was any better, so it stays.

 

The temporary dome has gone and the new on is in its place. Again, this was 1ft 2 and a fraction inches (I can't read the fraction on my drawing!) high. The model one is a fag paper thickness less than 5mm high. It certainly looks better than the one in the photo above.

 

Neither are properly fitted yet and the dome needs some work on thinning the flare but I am attaching a snap so that the assembled experts can tell me if I am barking up the wrong tree or not!

 

I am not 100% happy with the smokebox door yet. That may go back in the lathe to be thinned down a bit.

 

   

[CF MRC]

Dome looks much better, Tony. The smokebox door probably has too much of a jump from the smokebox ring, if you see what I mean?  Maybe  the door should be slightly less diameter relative to the ring, in other words the ring a bit more bold? Or maybe the ring is a bit small in diameter relative to the smokebox itself?  Questions, questions...

 

I must say, I am looking forward to see how Ian is getting on with Valour. 

 

Tim

[east barnet andy]

Valour still in the paint shop Tim? ( the novelty of the lockdown is beginning to wear off . . .)

 

regards

 

Potters Bar Andy