Sudrian Engines in 00 Scale

[LNWR18901910]

Here we are on Day 3 of 12 Days of Sodormas. Next up, we have Molly the Lovely Yellow Engine and she's just had some new decals added on.

 

I hope you all like the model. I may re-do her a bit sometime in the future, but maybe someday. I hope you'll like her and she'll like you all, too. Expect Day 4 of the 12 Days of Sodormas

Edited December 14, 2017 by LNWR18901910

[LNWR18901910]

Day 4 of 12 Days of Sodormas and here is the engine who started it all...Edward the Blue Engine!

 

He was made with a Hornby T9 with a six-wheeled tender and the cab sides came from an old Hornby Hunt Class I had lying around. The model has the face made from scratch with Milliput and the decals were designed and printed like the other engines I've done. Okay, so maybe the model's not finished yet, but I thought I'd show you something I'm currently working on right now.

 

I hope you like my Edward model which is better than Hornby's official Edward model, so expect Day 5 tomorrow!

Edited December 14, 2017 by LNWR18901910

[LNWR18901910]

Day 5 of 12 Days of Sodormas and here we have is Rosie in her new livery!

 

This was just a repaint of an earlier model I completed and improved on. I hope you'll like her.

 

Only 7 more days until Xmas Eve, so expect more on the way!

[LNWR18901910]

Day 6 of 12 Days of Sodormas and here we have is a double-whammy! This time, it's rolling stock!

 

Annie and Clarabel were made from two LNER Thompson Suburban coaches and the decals were made by me.

 

 

And now, as a special treat treat, here's a taster of what's to come...

 

 

Let me know what you guys think in the comments section. Expect more over the next six days. Six down, six to go...

[Nile]

The coaches look a lot better than the Hornby efforts, more like I remember from my yoof. Looks like you're having lots of fun with your modelling, keep it up.

[Corbs]

Yeah bogies over 4-wheelers any day!

[Legend]

Yes that Edward looks better than the Hornby effort which is essential,a Hunt without Cylinders. Looks quite improper without them . I’d always imagined the old Triang L1 as being a basis for Edward .

[LNWR18901910]

Here we are and it's Day 7 of 12 Days of Sodormas and here is the 7th Day with the seventh engine of Awdry's Magnificent Seven...Toby

 

This was made as an especially commissioned model by John at Silver Fox and a big thank you goes out to him! The face was made by me years back, but now I finally have finished the modle at last.

 

 

I hope you all like it very much. So, expect Day 8 tomorrow.

Edited December 18, 2017 by LNWR18901910

[LNWR18901910]

Day 8 of 12 Days of Sodormas and thanks to those who rated and commented on my posts so far. I love to hear all your feedback, I really do! But wait...did somebody order Silver Bells...or, at least...a Silver Streak? No, it's...Spencer!

 

As you can see, I was fortunate to get this model a few years back as it was just released at the time same as the Hornby Murdoch model. The wheels on the model were black so I painted them grey to better match the character on TV. Recently, because of his re-introduction into the CGI series, I gave him a make-over with silver paint to match his shining likeness. As you can see on the tender, I have tried to keep clear on the lining, though I might give it a bit of a touch-up.

 

 

So, please tell me what you think of the model, and as always, stick around for more updates and stick around for Day 9, please do!

[LNWR18901910]

Day 9 of 12 Days of Sodormas and here I am doing what I can to keep this thread active. Here I am with another model I just improved a bit and made more RWS-esque. It's Montague, better known as Duck!

 

Made from a Bachman 57xx Pannier with face and sandboxes made from Milliput; I haven't given him his running number yet, so that has to be commissioned. His number in the books is 5741 and that is the version I have gone for.

 

 

I hope you like what I have done so far, so please let me me know what you think of it. Expect Day 10, tomorrow...

[LNWR18901910]

Day 10 of 12 Days of Sodormas and here we are with Murdoch!

 

I know, he hasn't been seen since Season 12, but you never know one day. Anyway, here he is with his running-board painted black in keeping with real-life British steam locomotives. I was going to add some decals to his tender, but I have to find the right shade the official Hornby model has first.

 

 

I hope you like the model of him, so expect day 11 tomorrow! We're almost at the end!

 

[LNWR18901910]

Day 11 of 12 Days of Sodormas and here we are with another Season 7 Character...Arthur!

 

This was made with a Bachmann Ivatt 2MT tank and the face came from a Wooden Arthur model. It was an early model of mine I might re-do in the future.

 

 

Day 12 is the final one and expect a bonus at the end...

[LNWR18901910]

Day 12 of 12 Days of Sodormas and it all comes to an end. This time, I present not one but two new future projects and a bonus one on the way. But first...here are the official Bachmann Donald & Douglas models. Both models are gonna have detailing added to them as well as their Caledonian blue livery as seen in the books.

 

 

And now, as a special treat, we have the first look at my RWS Gordon model! It was made with a Margate Hornby A1 body with modifitcations and adapted to fit an LMS Duchess Chassis which is more accurate to the character with the correct valve gear according to the illustrations. Please let me know what you think of these models.

 

 

 

Feliz Navidad, Joyuex Noel & Merry Christmas! Happy New Year and I'll see you all in 2018! Stay safe, happy and Really Useful!

Edited December 23, 2017 by LNWR18901910

[LNWR18901910]

Unless I am mistaken and I could be as I haven't watched thomas the tank in 29 years, I was 15 last time I watched it.

 

Anyway I thought Gordon had a Duchess or Black 5 style tender like Henry did.

Gordon always had a Fowler tender just like in the books.

[LNWR18901910]

Happy New Year everybody! Just thought I'd share a little update with my Gordon model!

 

 

And here's what I've thrown in for a bonus, another future project of mine:

 

 

Chances are I could modify the Bachmann model or maybe try and incorporate some 0-4-0ST bits and parts together. What do you think?

 

Happy New Year and see you all in 2018! Great ready for 70 Years of British Rail!

[DCB]

Gordon always had a Fowler tender just like in the books.

Looks to me like Gordon had one of the big full width "Fowler" Tenders like Royal Scot took to the USA and which ran with the first two Princesses nos 6200 and 6201. Higher and wider than the Hornby 3F Tender....  

[LNWR18901910]

Looks to me like Gordon had one of the big full width "Fowler" Tenders like Royal Scot took to the USA and which ran with the first two Princesses nos 6200 and 6201. Higher and wider than the Hornby 3F Tender....  

Yes, thanks. I am glad to hear that. Also, Happy New Year.

[LNWR18901910]

Here's an old video I made while I was still in college - note that times have changed.

[Harry McTavish]

I do indeed like the rws locos, and you've got a sizeable fleet so far indeed! I have a few pointers which you are most welcome to accept or disregard, however in my experience;

 

-Brush painting is most successful with several coats, and a cleaned, soft, brush. It's also much easier to achieve a smooth finish on a primed surface, any cheap grey or white spray primer works.

 

-Crucially, the paint needs to be thinner, allowing it to flow smoothly, with acrylics, water is perfect to thin, and enamels, either commercial thinners or methylated spirits (depending on the paint).

 

-And finally, always allow the paint to fully dry before the next coat, (especially if using masking tape, as it may pull away paint, or allow wet paint to bleed)  !  

 

Harry

[LNWR18901910]

I do indeed like the rws locos, and you've got a sizeable fleet so far indeed! I have a few pointers which you are most welcome to accept or disregard, however in my experience;

 

-Brush painting is most successful with several coats, and a cleaned, soft, brush. It's also much easier to achieve a smooth finish on a primed surface, any cheap grey or white spray primer works.

 

-Crucially, the paint needs to be thinner, allowing it to flow smoothly, with acrylics, water is perfect to thin, and enamels, either commercial thinners or methylated spirits (depending on the paint).

 

-And finally, always allow the paint to fully dry before the next coat, (especially if using masking tape, as it may pull away paint, or allow wet paint to bleed)  !

 

Harry

Thanks! I have improved overtime, you know. So, as you can see by my other previous models, this showcases the progress I have made over the years.

[LNWR18901910]

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/131019-tidmouth-sheds-redux/

Just thought I'd make it a part of this thread to anyone who's following...

 

I apologise for the lack of updates and I will get into it as soon as I can. Anyway, my Gordon model is slowly and steadily taking shape, Edward is currently receiving improvements and now Thomas is currently underway.

[LNWR18901910]

And here it is, the long-awaited RWS Gordon Model which is complete at last!

 

The model was made using and Hornby A1 body, a Hornby Duchess Chassis and an old Tri-ang Hornby tender. The running-board was made from a wooden coffee-stirring stick and to match the likeness of Gordon in the books. His splashers were modded with a bit of Milliput which was also used to make the face and I seem to be getting good at making my own faces rather than just using faces off wooden Thomas trains.

And as an added bonus, I added checker-plating between James' cab and tender:

And thus, the Big Engine Trio is now complete!

 

So, let me know what you guys think about these models - I'd certainly love to hear your feedback!

[LNWR18901910]

And here is another work in progress which is Emily!

 

She has been detailed and given sprung buffers along with dummy hooks, brake piping, glazed windows and checker-plating. Like I said, it's a work in progress.

 

 

 

 

 

I also did the same thing with Percy on the same day, so I'll take some pictures of him one day. Let me know what you think of her!

[flyingtardis]

oh...

 

well, heres the constructive criticism i can give

 

1) use either Games Workshop or Revell paints or something like that from a model shop, the cheap supermarket paint really shows

2) use ACTUAL decals, bits of paper just glued to the sides are not decals, its just bits of paper stuck to the side of a model

3) when doing running boards its best to do the flat layer first, get it situated as perfectly as you can, filler it and then put the edging on underneath, it looks as though you've tried to do both at the same time and it actually sort of shows

4) try not to chop up perfectly good expensive models, like where you've used cheaper it actually works better due to the thicker mouldings, but honestly Bachmann stock isn't worth modding unless you've got your skills sorted on say the old tri-ang/Hornby moulds

5) masking tape is your friend, i know a lot of people can get perfectly fine lining jobs without, but they usually have rules and bow pens and only really work on flat surfaces, your best bet is masking tape to help you get those nice crisp edges on lining, stops it wiggling off and it will stop paint going everywhere causing what some would call carelessness (percy's lamp comes to mind having random black splodges in places)

6) measure, measure, measure, i can see on some examples bits of extra material used that don't appear to sit properly, always double check your measurements or that will happen

7) keep at the faces your custom making, they look a bit like a loaf of bread thats been set to rise on a baking tray then in a tin, try to refine the lines a bit more and add or take away depth until you get something more akin to what was on the show (in a more RWS light obviously) also smooth out before finalising, the lumpy look never suits try wetting the material a bit to try and create a smooth surface and gliding over gently with a craft knife without adding too much pressure.

8) on arthur i can see a lot of something for his face to be kept on, try to not do that, it makes the face stick out far too far, try taking bits out of the face that is fowling the smokebox door, or just take the smokebox door away if permanently being arthur, at any rte it should fix the sticky outy problem

9) and finally, take you're time, if a model takes you a few months to a few years to perfect take that time period, move onto something while your waiting for poly cement to dry or for the paint to dry, always leave time for things to dry/cure, as constant tinkering can be detrimental, i should know i've wrecked a few locos myself, but with time and effort it can become something good, like i have one of sparkshot's E2-x shells i'm workign on, what ive got is actually pretty good for a novice, i just need to get the tank lining done (and some paint touch ups due to tape failure but eh, nothing is perfect) but i took my time, using masking tape, time and patience, i also have actual decal paper lying around somewhere to make the numbers out of but it wouldn't be at it's current state without time and patience, it's always good to look back and think this isn't quite right and re-do bits, its how you get it from looking fine to you, to brilliant to you and others.

 

trust me, take this advice on board, better to try and improve than for your stuff to be potentially mocked in a discord group or something, its happened to me a couple of times, first custom paint job locos were utter rubbish, but i didn't have the same tools i do now, and i've improved since, if i remeber i'll try and post my E2-x thomas when i find him, need to fathem out the bag he's in and where said bag is...

[LNWR18901910]

oh...

 

well, heres the constructive criticism i can give

 

1) use either Games Workshop or Revell paints or something like that from a model shop, the cheap supermarket paint really shows

2) use ACTUAL decals, bits of paper just glued to the sides are not decals, its just bits of paper stuck to the side of a model

3) when doing running boards its best to do the flat layer first, get it situated as perfectly as you can, filler it and then put the edging on underneath, it looks as though you've tried to do both at the same time and it actually sort of shows

4) try not to chop up perfectly good expensive models, like where you've used cheaper it actually works better due to the thicker mouldings, but honestly Bachmann stock isn't worth modding unless you've got your skills sorted on say the old tri-ang/Hornby moulds

5) masking tape is your friend, i know a lot of people can get perfectly fine lining jobs without, but they usually have rules and bow pens and only really work on flat surfaces, your best bet is masking tape to help you get those nice crisp edges on lining, stops it wiggling off and it will stop paint going everywhere causing what some would call carelessness (percy's lamp comes to mind having random black splodges in places)

6) measure, measure, measure, i can see on some examples bits of extra material used that don't appear to sit properly, always double check your measurements or that will happen

7) keep at the faces your custom making, they look a bit like a loaf of bread thats been set to rise on a baking tray then in a tin, try to refine the lines a bit more and add or take away depth until you get something more akin to what was on the show (in a more RWS light obviously) also smooth out before finalising, the lumpy look never suits try wetting the material a bit to try and create a smooth surface and gliding over gently with a craft knife without adding too much pressure.

8) on arthur i can see a lot of something for his face to be kept on, try to not do that, it makes the face stick out far too far, try taking bits out of the face that is fowling the smokebox door, or just take the smokebox door away if permanently being arthur, at any rte it should fix the sticky outy problem

9) and finally, take you're time, if a model takes you a few months to a few years to perfect take that time period, move onto something while your waiting for poly cement to dry or for the paint to dry, always leave time for things to dry/cure, as constant tinkering can be detrimental, i should know i've wrecked a few locos myself, but with time and effort it can become something good, like i have one of sparkshot's E2-x shells i'm workign on, what ive got is actually pretty good for a novice, i just need to get the tank lining done (and some paint touch ups due to tape failure but eh, nothing is perfect) but i took my time, using masking tape, time and patience, i also have actual decal paper lying around somewhere to make the numbers out of but it wouldn't be at it's current state without time and patience, it's always good to look back and think this isn't quite right and re-do bits, its how you get it from looking fine to you, to brilliant to you and others.

 

trust me, take this advice on board, better to try and improve than for your stuff to be potentially mocked in a discord group or something, its happened to me a couple of times, first custom paint job locos were utter rubbish, but i didn't have the same tools i do now, and i've improved since, if i remeber i'll try and post my E2-x thomas when i find him, need to fathem out the bag he's in and where said bag is...

Thanks. I would've used the Sparkshot bodies, but unfortunately, I don't have a Shapeways account and I am unable to purchase them. Plus, I need to find the perfect chassis that would fit the models (loco-drive, not tender-driven) and detailing would be much of a chore.

 

Either way, I am glad somebody likes my models and I am pleased with how they turned out, however, there is room for improvement and I shall see to it one day. I don't look at my models and say "That's it, I'm satisfied." I am ready and willing to go onto the next thing.