Tri-ang Dock Shunter Makeover

[RosiesBoss]

Introduction

Who doesn’t need a makeover from time to time?

 

I have a substantial collection of models, some dating back to the 1950s. Such models, when used regularly, start to show their age. In some cases, early customising efforts now seem crude. In others, wear and tear needs to be corrected.

 

Readers of Post #2 of Ref. 1 will note that I possess a very old and battered Tri-ang dock shunter. It had a hard life before I was given it as “beyond repair” around 1965. It was my first successful restoration to running condition and I still have a soft spot for it.

 

Its mechanism is similar to several others which I have worked on over the years and seems to be almost unbreakable. These models include ancient Tri-ang Transcontinental diesel locos which have been altered to resemble early NSWGR engines as well as a rebuilt Tri-ang Blue Pullman set. Here are some images:

 

 

 

All of these, including the dock shunter, have been fitted with finer-flanged Airfix wheels, sold as spares for diesel locos. As modified, the undersides of all of them look like this:

 

In the case of the dock shunter, while it ran well, it looked awful!

 

 

 

Faults included:

• All steps missing/broken
• Major crack on front right corner, from the top of the hood to the buffer beam
• Chipped front buffer beam
• Obsolete, large tension-lock couplings
• Unsuitable buffers
• Very worn paintwork
• Moulded handrails

Aims

1. Replace missing steps
2. Replace damaged front buffer beam
3. Repair crack in body
4. Fit new buffers, scale couplings and slim tension-lock couplings
5. Replace moulded handrails with separate handrails with turned brass knobs
6. Repaint the model in a fresh industrial style livery

Parts List

• Thin copper sheet
• Etched scale couplings
• Markits round coach buffers
• Bachmann slim tension-lock couplings
• Brass handrail knobs
• 0.4mm dia phosphor-bronze wire
• Humbrol enamels
• Gold water-slide transfers

Actions

The body was removed from the chassis and set aside.

 

The chassis was thoroughly serviced and test run to ensure there were no issues.

 

The body was then checked over to confirm the scope of repairs needed.

 

Remaining traces of the old steps were removed, then new steps were soldered up from thin copper and attached with epoxy cement. Epoxy was also used to fill cracks and restore a broken window frame.

 

Old Tri-ang buffers and couplings were removed, together with crude scale couplings. Oversized holes were filled with epoxy. The front buffer beam was ground back and a new one fabricated from thin copper sheet and attached with epoxy cement. New holes were drilled for buffers and scale couplings.

 

Moulded handrails were carved off and replaced with wire ones mounted in brass knobs.

 

Prior to painting, the model looked like this:

 

The body was spray primed grey, then brush painted with Humbrol enamels. The cab windows were then glazed with clear plastic recovered from packaging. A crew was fitted, transfers applied and then the body was lacquered with Humbrol satin clear.

 

Results

It’s no longer an ugly duckling:

 

 

Seen shunting at Carmarthen Junction:

 

Reflections

“Tich” no longer looks like the poor relation when seen near other models in my collection. She’s still just a freelance Tri-ang dock shunter, but operates smoothly through all speed ranges and can move a respectable load. Importantly, she is easily controlled down to a crawl – an important function for a shunter. She will look fine in a future model factory setting. I’m happy with the result.

 

Oh yes! I almost forgot! The little boy (my son) who learned how (not!) to burn out this model’s first armature in 1987 has grown up to become an aerospace engineer working for SpaceX in California, helping to design space vehicles to go to Mars. He’s still interested in technical things………..

 

References

1. Posts #2 & #11 here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/70550-carmarthen-junction-miscellena/
2. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/67038-blue-pullman-cheap-and-cheerful/
3. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/110243-earl-cawdor-makeover/

 

[DanInHisDen]

How did you add NEM couplings?

[RosiesBoss]

G'day, Daniel,

 

Thank you for your question - taking me by surprise after all this time.

 

The simple answer is that there is only one: at the front end of the chassis where an X171 had been mounted. To do this, I ground away the original mounting, milled out a slot for the NEM pocket and then glued the pocket into place.  This meant that the replacement brass  buffer beam could be much neater. At the other end, I reused the mounts for the X171 coupling and attached a Bachmann long coupling.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Regards,

 

Rob

 

Ps; I plan to restore the bent pickup (which I just noticed in the image) later today.

R.

[DanInHisDen]

8 hours ago, RosiesBoss said:

G'day, Daniel,

 

Thank you for your question - taking me by surprise after all this time.

 

The simple answer is that there is only one: at the front end of the chassis where an X171 had been mounted. To do this, I ground away the original mounting, milled out a slot for the NEM pocket and then glued the pocket into place.  This meant that the replacement brass  buffer beam could be much neater. At the other end, I reused the mounts for the X171 coupling and attached a Bachmann long coupling.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Regards,

 

Rob

 

Ps; I plan to restore the bent pickup (which I just noticed in the image) later today.

R.

Thank you, most of my stock is fitted with nem couplings. I am thinking of getting a tri ang dock shunter.

Dan