Jump to content
 

CT DCX77zDN and N Farish Jinty .


pctrainman
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi , I have been trying with very little success to program the aforementioned chip for slow speed shunting in a N Farish Jinty , I have a sprog and decoder pro but can't seem to get the smooth slow speed running that this particular loco needs , I have no problems with the Lenz Gold and Silver minis in all of my other stock but this CT decoder is getting the better of me , does anyone use this particular combo and have any hints advice or CV settings they would be willing to share ?.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Very sorry, forgot to add - you'll see if you read the whole thread - that I found I had to rip out the pcb and hardwire a chip in. Not everybody finds the need to do this it seems, but with all the locos I have that don't have lights installed by default, 3FT/4F/03/04/08 etc I always now rip out the pcb's as a matter of course. This seems neccesary in other scales as well it seems, the capacitors fitted on them causing problems whatever make of decoder you fit.

 

Awkward if you already have a 6-pin decoder......but maybe the settings might do the trick in this case on their own. I do hope so.

 

Izzy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Izzy , as I already have 6 pin decoders in all of my locos all of which apart from the CT are Lenz Silver or Gold i'd be very loathe and probably not up to the job of fitting wired decoders , i'll persevere with Cv's for now and see how I get on but if in the end I decide to go with a wired decoder for the Jinty alone I would then most probably have to get an expert to do it for me and for preference I would get them to  fit stay alives at the same time .

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Thanks Izzy , as I already have 6 pin decoders in all of my locos all of which apart from the CT are Lenz Silver or Gold i'd be very loathe and probably not up to the job of fitting wired decoders , i'll persevere with Cv's for now and see how I get on but if in the end I decide to go with a wired decoder for the Jinty alone I would then most probably have to get an expert to do it for me and for preference I would get them to  fit stay alives at the same time .

 

If your other locos run fine then I wouldn't alter them. Most of my stock, diesels/dmus, have 6-pin CT74/75/76/77's and run just fine on the default settings. The issue with the Jinty, and with my 4F, seemed to be not only the pcb's, but the use of the new coreless motors, which I found needed cv adjustments even after the pcb's were removed. I did try all different flavours of decoder makes I had around - Bachmann/Digitrax/Lenz/Zimo/CT - in the Jinty before going down the removing the pcb route to try and ensure it was really neccesary as they are DCC ready. If you do find that removing it and hardwiring is needed then fitting a stay-alive seems rather a good idea as I have to say I am not impressed with the level of current collection reliability that the Jinty and 4F exhibit.

 

Izzy

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I have used the same decoder in my Union Mills and have had to do a lot of tuning to get it to run smooth,using JMRI decoder pro.The new Union Mills locos have a new motor and the locos are heavy, I think this is what has caused most of my problems. I have the same decoder in a new GF4mt and that runs superbly slow. By the way I used Izzy’s settings with a bit of tweaking, thanks Izzy.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have used the same decoder in my Union Mills and have had to do a lot of tuning to get it to run smooth,using JMRI decoder pro.The new Union Mills locos have a new motor and the locos are heavy, I think this is what has caused most of my problems. I have the same decoder in a new GF4mt and that runs superbly slow. By the way I used Izzy’s settings with a bit of tweaking, thanks Izzy.

Hi Chris , I have tried to get this Jinty to run as I need but no end of CV tweaking has helped beyond a slight improvement , so i'm now thinking that I need to get someone more competent than me to implement Izzys solution by removing the PCB and fitting a wired decoder plus stay alive Capacitors if there is room , if anyone knows of a good and reliable N gauge Loco Doctor who could do this work i'd very much appreciate a reply .

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi there I have a Jinty which also run rough,I took Izzy solution and removed the pcb unfotunately I fitted a rubbish decoder I had at the time,I recently replaced it with a ct decoder but shorted it. I could not afford another at the moment so I fitted a Lenz silver mini I had in the draw. It runs a lot better but you can not fine tune the Lenz has much has the ct decoders.

Edited by lilchris
Link to post
Share on other sites

I do use decoder pro with a sprog but have'nt done much programming other than the Jinty as with my other locos the Lenz Gold and Silver minis I use give me what I need straight out of the box , I would appreciate Izzys settings though Chris as it may give me a better idea if i'm close to the optimum or way off the mark .

Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you turned BEMF off as coreless motors do not run well if its ON, I had to do this with a Dapol Q1 as it would go very fast from start on speed step 2/3, will craw on speed step 1 with BEMF OFF, on my O gauge loco's with portiscap motors the same applied which is how I knew this was the problem, found out in 1998 with TCS chips.

 

regards

 

mike g

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...