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00 Bagnall 'Port of Par' 0-4-0ST Bodge/Bash - Battery Power/Radio Control


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  • RMweb Gold

My Sudrian China Clay operation needs a pair of Bagnalls. Hornby and Bachmann do 'Bill' and 'Ben' but they are very oversized compared to the real ones.

 

Decided to try and make something from the ERTL diecast ones, which are teeny and much more appropriately sized. The main benefit is having the cab and tank shape.

 

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Die cast metal, as it turns out, is incredibly tough. Now I see why they use it for kids toys.

anyway the bunkers need extending and lowering.

 

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This is it on a cut down Pug chassis from Peter's Spares. The boiler has been moved forward to allow the bunkers to be bigger. The front cab windows are just stickers so I'll replace the front plate with styrene.

 

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Edited by Corbs
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  • RMweb Gold

The dettol did its job well, as did the razor saw to get rid of the 'skirt' and thin the smokebox front. I think the proportions are beginning to work better. The chimney's been cut down.

 

post-898-0-41976500-1511735287_thumb.jpg

 

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  • RMweb Gold

I think 2A Rail are planning on doing a 3D printed body of the Par twins.

 

By the way, does anyone know a supplier of worm gears that will fit a 0.8mm shaft? all the ones I can find are for 2mm shafts.

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using "banana for scale" are you a 9gagger?

There are times when Googling terms I'm not familiar with doesn't do much to enhance my life, or my confidence that I belong to a species that should be let out on its own!

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I think 2A Rail are planning on doing a 3D printed body of the Par twins.

 

By the way, does anyone know a supplier of worm gears that will fit a 0.8mm shaft? all the ones I can find are for 2mm shafts.

Try Nigel Lawton's web site, he does various brass sleeves for gears and fly wheels.

Stephen

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  • RMweb Gold

Righto, I've ordered some adapters from Nigel's website, and some worm gears too, so I can start mounting it up soon (thanks for the recommendation Stephen)

 

Here's the progress to date on 'Bill'.

 

I've infilled the front of the cab with styrene cut to size, and cut the cab windows out. The firebox top is formed from a piece of pre-curved plastic, and more styrene strip was used for the bunker extensions. It's reinforced on the back with more strip.

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Here it is part way through filling and sanding. The holes in the running plate (that were left over from cutting out the 'skirt' under the saddle tank) have been filled in with more styrene strip (big flat'uns).

 

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I'm interested to know what gearbox you're going to use with that tiny motor. I recently bought 7 pager motors from ebay for around 3 quid. It seemed like a good idea at the time but I haven't a clue what gearbox they could possibly fit, or even if they are powerful enough.

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks guys.

Dave - I may well change the motor. I have some small 6v motors on order which may work better if I go down the RC route with this. Running normal 12v motors off the RC system is great for slow running but if you stall the train it's so hard to get it re-started as you're using so little power compared to what the motor is capable of. Hopefully the 6v motor gives slow running with a bit more power.

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  • RMweb Gold

A couple of snaps of it in context to show the size compared to SCC No.3 and No.4

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I should try to get hold of a Bachmann one to compare sizes. The Hornby one is much larger.

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  • RMweb Gold

Alfred and Judy have saddle tanks that protrude over the smokebox fronts, so I traced a card template, then cut a tank front from styrene and glued it on. Then I filled the gap with putty and sanded.

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Following my previous experience with yellow, I wanted to start building up thin coats. A few of these have run but I'll be letting it harden before sanding smooth.

The handrails were fitted, always a fiddly job, but they make a big difference!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Here's the little Bagnall now some more cosmetic work has been done. The bulk of the painting is over, the fine lines need cutting in here and there (careful brush painting is torture for me!). Archers rivet transfers have been added to the tank, they show up better on the yellow than my previous attempt with maroon.

 

I need to make up some safety valves and line it out next. I'm trying to work out if I should attach the body to the running plate, or mount the running plate to the chassis and screw the body to that.

 

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  • RMweb Gold

The Bachmann US "twins" are really quite close dimensionally (cab ignored) to Hawarden- much too big for a 4mm Alfred or Judy but definite industrial bashing potential nonetheless.

Funnily enough that's exactly what I had in mind! Either Hawarden or one of the squat YEC 0-4-0ST locos. From what I heard Hawarden packs a lot of grunt, must have plenty of weight over the drivers.

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