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4472 Flying Scotsman 5"


greenglade
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Good afternoon all


A have a few more pictures from Paul, these are the crown stays for you all to enjoy...

 

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Paul informs me that the throat and side stays are also done along with those for the arch support, pictures to follow.

Cheers

Pete


 

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2 hours ago, Mike Boucher said:


Quite a job forming that firebox front/combustion chamber bottom piece.  Clearly a craftsman.

 

 

He certainly is Mike, one of the best if not the best IMHO...there are a number of changes to this boiler from the design which will not only make it steam better but also make it stronger. The original design itself already has a reputation for being an excellent steamer, we shall see how much better this boiler steams...:)

 

Pete

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Good afternoon chaps/chapesses

Paul has just sent me these latest pictures which show the stay and Firehole door penetration, all looking excellent...not long now before completion....

 

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I hope to be able to get back in the workshop myself for a few days next week, fingers crossed...

Pete

 

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Hi Pete,is that Paul Tomkins of Southern Boiler works.I may have found a chap who can finish my Clarksons Austerity but he has reccommended him for a boiler.At the moment,my biggest problem is getting the chassis & castings etc up to Tim at Rufford steam works in Southport from Northampton as i`m not very mobile these days.I could courier it up to him but how do you pack something like that for transport?.Still,it would be nice to see it finished.

 

                             Ray.

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Hi Ray

 

Yes sir, Paul Tompkins of Southern boilers, IMHO his work is second to none..Paul has put a lot of work into this  boiler, some at my request but others to make a very good steamer, steam even better...once it's finished, (perhaps as early as next week) I'll give details of what has been done. Regarding transporting models, I have taken 4472 to a number of meets, an estate car is prefered but I have used smaller. I made a wooden frame for the chassis to sit in with end stops close to the buffers/draw bar. Some foam padding also helped protect the model. Personally, I would never entrust a live steam loco to a courier....you just don't know how they will handle your model. If you are forced to use a courier all I had advise is to pack it in a very strong crate, lot's of padding and fix it down to a small pallet so that it has to be moved via forklift or hydraulic pump up truck...that should take away the issue of it being dropped...

 

Good luck and please do report back how you get on...

 

Kind regards

 

Pete

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On 31/05/2019 at 11:45, greenglade said:

Personally, I would never entrust a live steam loco to a courier....you just don't know how they will handle your model. If you are forced to use a courier all I had advise is to pack it in a very strong crate, lot's of padding and fix it down to a small pallet so that it has to be moved via forklift or hydraulic pump up truck...that should take away the issue of it being dropped...

 

Kind regards

 

Pete

 

Ive shipped my 3.5" gauge Britannia across Canada coast to coast.  A VERY stout crate surrounds it, with a system involving a plug in the chimney and screw downs in the cab, with the engine traveling inside its lifting box, inside the crate.  I watched the dingbat house movers tip it on end within 10 ft of where it started on one trip, right after signing its value.  (Estimated as the same as the OS kit...at least there was a commercial grounds for that value)...

 

Anyway, 5" locos exceed the average lift ability that a 3.5 has...so are a little less likely to be slung around.

 

I've been gifted probably one of the biggest 5" locos possible, in the form of the D&HR Class D Garrett.  Boiler is done, both engines are done, needs most everything else.  Current thought is how to run the reversing gear, I have an idea.  Chances are very good that it will end up a far more experimental loco than a scale model.

 

James

 

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evening all

Just one photo for tonight, these are the manifold and regulator bushes, machined from PB102 with M2 threads for studs. Manifold will have an 'O' ring for sealing..

 

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Getting close now guys...

Pete

Read more: http://modeleng.proboards.com/thread/5733/building-don-youngs-doncaster?page=151#ixzz5q0C3Qm3B

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Two pictures for today showing the penetration of the foundation ring, you can just see one of the blind bushes in the ring which are for holding the ashpan and associated damper operating mechanism. 

 

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Pete

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Here you go, guys,

One exceptionally well built near finished Gresley A1 boiler in 5" gauge from Southern Boiler works, I take my hat off to it's creator Paul Tompkins and very much look forward to collecting it in person from his works end of next week. 

Not much left to do, the stay ends will be trimmed, the boiler will be given a good clean and then tested at twice it's working pressure for two hours. Let's just say that I'm very excited about seeing it in the flesh...

 

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Pete

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I have a picture and it's not of a boiler, yep I'm back in the workshop.. as for the picture, it's just to show that I have now completed all of the 8BA studding for the cylinder steam chest covers, both front and rear on all 3 cylinders.

 

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It's good to be back at the bench again after my 4-week hiatus, more soon guys

Pete
 

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Good morning everyone and a very good morning it is too....

The boiler has just passed it's twice working pressure test and Paul has kindly given me 3 pictures to share. When the boiler is fully completed I'll post some more pictures with more details on the boiler. I must say that I have been very impressed with Paul's work, not only the quality of the build and his knowledge in all things boiler making but also the info passed back to me at each stage and total communication throughout. For anyone wanting a professional boiler made or repaired, he's your man...

Here are the pictures...

 

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I'll be collecting the boiler on Friday, I can't wait...

Pete

 

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good afternoon all

that very special day has arrived and that's to pick up the completed boiler. I will share with you the pictures that Paul posted earlier on FB. over the weekend I'll place the boiler on the chassis and add another picture or two. Can't do it know as I'll be babysitting shortly and plus it's a bit too heavy for me to lift out of the car on my own, old age and all that..

The pictures....

 

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I'll give more details on the boiler when I next post....

Pete


 

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Evening all

I promised to show a few pictures with the boiler on the chassis and also give some more details about the boiler. Some details were told to me in confidence and not something paul would wish to pass on to competitors so I'll keep quiet on any of those.

Ok. so the boiler is as you'd guess mainly to Don's design but is stronger and has a higher working pressure of 100 PSI vs Don's recommended 90 PSI. The shell is a work of art, with the parallel barrel blending in nicely with the taper and having no step thanks to 'Tig', it really does look like full size in shape and I can share a picture here of 1470 ( first of the class) when built in 1922 to show what I mean.

 

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Backhead: 

Now Don's is pretty good, very close to scale although fittings are slightly larger and spacing between the water gauge bushes is larger. I have kept the water gauge bushes as drawn as scale versions would give too small a window to view the water level. I will make the gauges as close to scale as possible, just with longer glass sections. 

The steam valves will be to scale and I'll be using Adam's (Cro Fittings) castings to achieve this, the bore sizes for water and steam will follow the normal practice of 5/32 pipe for steam and 3/16 water to match the injectors planned for the model, I can't recall which sizes I have chosen just now but it's written down somewhere. Bore sizes for the mounting pads are 3.2 mm for steam and 3.8 mm for water. I'm undecided on whether to try for working clacks within the steam valves themselves or to fit them independently below the cab floor, I'll see if it's feasible to get the clacks working first.
Regulator bush is as drawn by Don.

Manifold bush is to scale, this is able to keep the bore size as drawn by Don. Manifold itself will again have castings supplied by Adam. I showed a rendering of this beautiful piece of work previously.

Paul has fitted 4 blind bushes into the backhead for me to secure the cladding when done, this will be very much to scale.

The everlasting blowdown valve is as drawn by Don.

There are two extra water feed bushes along the bottom of the backhead, one of which will be used to fill the boiler using a HP electric, this will be able to feed water against boiler pressure if ever required, something I doubt will ever be needed but it's nice to have a back up when there's no hand pump in the tender which according to Don would be undignified to have on this loco, I agree. I did mention these plans some time ago, some years in fact, think I was still building the tender?

There are also 4 washout plugs, 2 on the backhead lower corners and 2 on the front throatplate just above the foundation ring in each corner.

Paul has fitted larger tubes for a better tube/grate ratio, as drawn they are 1/2", they are now 9/16 18swg.

The steam header as drawn is threaded into a 3/4 x 26tpi bush, Paul has modified this to have an 'O' ring with 8 mounting bolts to secure it. Also the dome bush has an added shelf with 2 holes for mounting the regulator body which otherwise would just be held by the steam pipe.

The Blower stay is what I would call a live stay, it's not a permanent fixture as drawn, Paul has followed full-size practice with a removable 1/4" tube that will be furled and beaded in to seal, I'll cover this better when I get around to making the two connections for blower valve and ring later.

The upper steam area follows OZ code with doubler plates, butt straps, whichever you prefer, this means rather than being 3mm thick on the tube plates as drawn, it's, in fact, 6mm thickness of material.

Last (i think) but not least is the fusible plug bush fitted into the firebox crown.

3 pictures of the model, The boiler is more or less in place, might need to drop a fraction and move back a tad but I won't play around with anything until the chassis is properly sitting horizontal, it's about 2 degrees out in the pictures. 

close up of the backhead...

 

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front three quarter view

 

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Lastly, I tried to take a picture square on to show the side profile, this gives a good view of the barrel especially the taper below the running boards and up to the firebox and back down to the cab. I can't fit the running boards as I can't get the splashers over the wheels with the boiler in place and I also still need to trim a little along the inner edge around the firebox. 

 

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I think before I get back on with the cylinders ( still need materials) I'll get the running boards finished so that they fit properly and perhaps finish them completely along with the splashers so that I can tick another box.

More on this next update, thanks for looking in guys...

Pete

Edit: Forgot to say, all 6 main drivers now sit on the bench, I'm glad that I didn't adjust the trailing springs to being any weaker.



 

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It's been a while since I've done a Monday update, a good sign that things are returning to normal, famous last words..

So, I mentioned that I would sort out the running boards as my first priority but before I can do this I needed to ensure that the boiler was in it's correct location.

First, I needed to tackle it's height at the back as it seemed a tad high and would benefit from a little teasing, I already had an idea to tackle this and it proved both successful and easy. In the first picture, you can see how the backhead sits on the rear stay, I had made the stay to drawing but forgot to file the top horizontal and it was this which gave it that extra little bit of height.

 

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Here's the stay after being filed horizontal..

 

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I then checked that the front barrel section was running parallel with the top of the frames, which it was so I then moved on to check the overall height of the firebox where it enters the cab. Here's a picture of the drawing which is to scale, as can be seen, I measured to the rail height, approx 340 mm.

 

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Next I set up a rule across one of the safety valve bushes with a digital angle gauge attached, once happy it was level I measured the distance from bench to rule, it was a few mm over which is very good as the loco is sitting on it's flanges, I am very happy with that.

 

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I now needed to check that the boiler was correct longitudinally, I decided the best way was to check the dome position in relation to the centre driving wheel, as can be seen in this picture I was looking for approx 54 mm.

 

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To check the distance on the model, I first established the centre of the dome making a pencil mark on either side. I then laid a rule against this mark and carefully placed a square up against this. 

 

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hey presto they match, ok I was happy before, now I'm ecstatic, small differences if there, wouldn't be noticed by passers-by but these things are just so important to me, just call me mad, you'd be right.. As a double check I also measured the distance between cab and dome centre, I wasn't disappointed, both reading the same.

 

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Last picture was just for fun, I wanted to see how things are looking in the smokebox....

 

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Now that I'm happy with the boiler position I'll remove the remaining 4 splashers from the running boards and trim the boards along their inner edge along the firebox to fit. I'll then file/grind off the top rear quadrant of the rear splashers until I get enough clearance for the boiler and it's cladding, Don had recommended to leave this until after the boiler had been fitted. With that done they will then be ready for stripping the paint off and repainting to a better quality as previously mentioned. I'll do the same to the smokebox while I'm at it. I'll be using different paint this time so we'll see how things turn out.

More soon folks

Pete


 

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Continuing with the final fit of the running boards, my first task was to remove a strip from the inside edge where it passes the firebox, this was deliberately left oversize until after the boiler had been built, I used the Dremel and some cutting discs to cut the metal and then finish with a file and the sanding drum for the concave curve. The first picture shows the right-hand side now able to fit correctly, the left-hand side is also done.

 

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I mentioned that I needed to remove the splashers now that the boiler is in place, this interferes with my plan to keep the running boards and their splashers as a single piece to make life easier during maintenance. I gave this a little thought and decided that it would be best to cut away part of the rear faces to allow the running boards and splashers to be fitted as one. Ok it's stepping away from the prototype but you can not see this at all, it's difficult now and once the cladding is attached you'd never know. The other reason for this decision is that it would be very difficult to reach the small csk screws which hold the splashers down, worse still, if tried it would most certainly mark the paintwork on the cladding around the boiler, that just wouldn't be acceptable so parts of the backs were cut off. The picture shows the right-hand running board completed with the splashers for the other side laid out below it awaiting their turn, alas it was at this point that I ran out of cutting discs...lol Fear not, Amazon same-day delivery will be here later tonight with a new batch.... You can also see where the rear quadrant of the rear splasher has been ground off, Don advises to leave this open as a cover would foul the wheel, which it most certainly would, plus as he states, the cladding will be very close to this and it would never be seen, that's good enough for me. 

 

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A picture from the side to give an idea of the clearance...

 

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And this view from the front quarter, Don states that the cladding/insulation would be compressed to fit, I can well believe it.

 

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Lastly, a picture to show the running board back in place with it's splashers attached.

 

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I have to say that right now I'm feeling overwhelmed by the number of jobs that now need my attention, there are literally hundreds all lining up shouting at me. Today I wrote out a fairly big list just for what I need to do to the running boards and smokebox before they can be removed and painted. I also have another big issue, any form of lifting this even with two people is a big 'no, no'. This may force me to step back and build something to allow me to continue. I spent some time today looking for an electric hoist, supporting arm (adjustable), hydraulic lifting table, trolley for moving the model for visits, (2 coming up in just over a month) steelwork to build support cradle for lift, trolley and for handling into a van. I think a van is now sorted thanks to my son which I'll be able to make something to secure the model inside, oh and some scaffold tube and fittings to make the hoist support.....

Just now I feel like I've got to make a miniature version of 'Doncaster' works,...lol So if there's a break in my updates, don't worry, I'm just making the support system to continue the build...I can at least, for this week get on with the list that I wrote out today... 

Thanks for looking in

Pete




 

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As I battle through all of the outstanding small jobs, I think that the updates will be much more frequent, some of the jobs take less time to do than actually writing up the details about them and thus if left too long each new update would take an eternity to process, so tonight we have yet another update... hopefully, not a bad thing?...

First up is the slot in the right-hand side running board for the reach rod to pass through, I'll show the full size first as I hadn't noticed before that the loco still has the slot for this side, to me this shows that at least the rear section of this running board dates to before 1954, perhaps it's even original? It's interesting to note two things, first, the new slot on the left is much longer and second it looks like it was just hacked out until the reach rod fitted, not much finesse shown there...

 

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To get the slot in it's correct position (nothing shown on the drawings) I first calculated the height of the reverser pivot point for the rod and also used the full-size photo as a guide. Here I have finished the slot and placed a length of bar of the correct height (3/8) through the slot and lined it up with the reverser pivot point seen marked on the cab, alas I didn't have any material long enough to meet the cab itself. I have made the slot so that it has a sideplay movement of about 0.5 mm, IIRC the rod is 3.96 wide and the slot is 4.5mm wide, I can always open this up a little further on both axis if required.

 

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Here's the slot itself, the reach rod and the gravity sander rod above it both sit behind the cleading, I have looked at this and it will fit, going to be close and interesting making the cleading around the throat plate, but hey, that's why we do these things...isn't it?..

 

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While in this area I decided to plot and drill the pivot point for the gravity rod arm that offsets the rod to go behind the middle and first splashers, I forgot to take a picture but it's only a hole, it's position is 3 3/16 forward from the trailing axle centre and 1 17/32 in from the edge of the running board. I will show this picture of the full-size to give a visual of what's what. Some may recall that I captured this image from the 1929 film 'Flying Scotsman' some years ago when researching whether 4472 had always had the curved right angle bracket along the front face of the rear splasher, I wasn't sure at the time if it may have been something added during preservation, this picture answered that question. As you can see the rod exits the cleading above the reach rod, goes to the arm which offsets the pull rod. I'll take up this explanation in the picture after this one.

 

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This picture was really to show where I plan to pass the lubricator oil pipes to the middle and left-hand cylinders but it also serves to show the forward pivot point for the gravity sanding operating linkage. The hole to the right is where the control shaft passes down through the sandbox to open the valve at the bottom of the box to free the sand. Fitted to this above both running boards (both sitting in place here) is a bell crank that controls both this sandbox and the one on the opposite side with a cross rod. This will become clearer when i build these parts but that may be a long way off for now. The square hole in the top running board is where the wakefield lubricator sits.

 

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I'll show this picture to give a clearer view of where I intend to take the oil feed through the frames, I won't be using this union, it's just there to identify the position of the hole.

 

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Moving to the smokebox, here I needed to drill the two holes for the outside cylinder steampipes. I have followed photo's of 4472 during the 30's rather than Don's words which state and show on his drawing the steam pipe covers being directly under the builder's plates, this is not correct, they are forward of this point. As it happens the hole centre's are directly inline above the centre of the openings in the cylinder chests and you may recall that my smokebox was moved back 1/8 further than Don shows to match the prototype. If I hadn't done this, the steam pipe outlets would have been where Don has drawn them? I think this all leads back to when the swing link bogie was replaced with the side control bogie as this moved the bogie scale wise by 1/8, anyway, I'm very glad that I followed my own nose on this one. A picture to show the drivers side, this close up picture, also shows you why I am repainting the smokebox and running boards ( some have questioned this), spraying them last summer outdoors in high 30c's wasn't my brightest move...

 

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The last picture for tonight is just to show the inside of the smokebox and that both holes have no been drilled.

 

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Next, I need to make the small rear steps that sit on the running boards (just below the reach rod slot on the driver's side) and also make the outside steam pipe covers. I think that I may do the covers first, these are an important part to get right to help maintain the Gresley look achieved so far, I'm actually looking forward to these, a little carving to do, oh and I will touch up the paint along the tops of the frames which has been knocked while I struggled to get the boiler on and off. I have a plan to cure this, just trying to find some suitable cheap scaffold to build the rig, I'll get there, more soon...

Pete






 

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