4472 Flying Scotsman 5"

[greenglade]

Evening guys

It's been another mixed bag of bits and pieces done again for this week.. I have painted most of the bolts/screws ready for reassembly, I still have the cylinder screws to do. I have painted the front steps and guard irons and put them away awaiting the wheels to go back on. Rear beam parts are also done and the front running boards are in primer. The framework for these boards has also been painted and fitted back onto to the chassis. i have also painted and fitted the small door that covers the 2:1 gear pin back on it's stay.
First picture is the only bit of machining since last update, this is the bogie pivot bolt, when I built the bogie some years back the only hex bar that I had in stock for the pivot was brass which I needed to change, I have now got around to this, I have made this one a little longer so that I can get a good lock nut on it. 

Picture shows new vs old.....



I have put a number of bits back together, in this picture you can see that the trailing axle oil boxes that sit over the cartazzi assembly have been bolted onto the plate. Also in the picture is the brake trunnion which now has it's bearing back in situ.



Here I have set up the trailing axle ready for lining, I had planned to make a jig but after a discussion with Adam (cro fittings) earlier today I'll try what he suggested and do it between centers..I needed this setup anyway for cleaning up of the treads so this can do both jobs. I have done a test on the paint from last week and it's not effected by lighter fuel, I'll be using white spirit for any cleaning of wayward lines so will test with this before starting the lining...



As can be seen, I have been pretty busy with the spray gun, well both guns in fact, back to the HVLP for this one, as can be seen all wheels are now hardening ready for lining...



Still to paint are the running boards...hope to get these in a semi-gloss finish which is a little shinier than a normal satin finish..if doing the main boards I'll need to remove all splashers first, whether I get around to painting them green remains to be seen, ideally I'd do these at the same time as cab,tender and boiler but it may be best to get these done now so that I don't risk damage to the paint on the running boards at a later date...we shall see. I may also paint the saddle once i have looked ahead to check that I haven't forgotten anything....

More soon.....

Pete

 

[greenglade]

Good afternoon all..

I'm posting an early update to ask a question as I've been trying to ascertain the livery of 4472's wheels for 1939. To be honest, gut feeling and reference seen to date suggests that I already know the details but since it goes against all my impressions of what 4472 looked like in the 30's I'll ask the question again to spread the net in case someone has info to refute what I believe to be the case. I always thought that 4472 was fully lined as per other LNER Pacifics, that is wheels with black/white lining. It seems that I am wrong and that what I thought was her Wembley 1924/5 livery in part stayed with her until the war when she was painted black, I had assumed she lost this late twenties. So chaps, before I remove the green from the rims I'll pass the batton out there in case I have this wrong. I'd prefer her to be lined but I'm 99% convinced that I'm not.
Anyway, here's the wheels with the treads now cleaned, I'll remove the green this week if no other info emerges, I still need to do the black/white lining for the axle ends which I have plenty of references to show was there.



Ok, so moving on with the latest changes...a couple of pictures to show where I am, first the bogie, horn stays, mudguards and the vacuum cylinder support brackets are ready to go back on.



Trailing frames have had the first coat of vermillion lining applied, I hope to finish this tomorrow..



Lastly, a closeup of the various components for reassembly of the cartazzi axle, as you can see the lining for the spring and axlebox covers has been applied.



I have also primed the outside motion brackets which I'll paint dull black later next week...

so guys unless anyone has info to state otherwise I'll be removing the green very soon....

Thanks for reading...

regards

Pete

 

[greenglade]

 

Post by greenglade on 4 minutes ago

Evening all....

To conclude with the wheel livery subject, thank's to the input from others and the evidence in the various photo's both in books and online I'll be going with polished rims. The deciding factor is the picture taken of 4472 in 1938 when first fitted with the streamlined tender which clearly shows polished rims. This is only a matter of months before my chosen era and it's highly unlikely that the loco would have had any more work done on her during this short period, she certainly wouldn't have been repainted having just left the works with a new coat.

Having made that decision I need to remove the green already applied, I have already done the trailing and bogie wheels and begun putting things back together which I'll cover in tonight's update. I am leaving the wheel axle end black/white livery until later when the paint has had a good chance to cure, although the main reason is I only have 4 weeks before the loco will be on display so have more than enough to do without adding to the workload.

I have a few photos for tonight which are basically walking around the loco showing the parts that are near finished going back together now painted. I'll start from the front, first the bogie now assembled and back on the chassis, this time secured with a 2BA nyloc nut. Mudguards are fitted, nothing done to the buffer beam yet which I'll need to look at very soon



Next a view down the length of the chassis..some may note the black overspray on the buffer beam...bad masking from me, I got lucky though as it will all hidden behind the buffer stock when fitted..



Another view down the centre, note the oil cups on the bogie axle yokes. This is an addition by me so that I have a good supply of oil to the axles and horns that can be easily reached, holes are drilled through the yokes, then as per drawing, into the tops of the axle boxes (small reservoir) and out to the horns guides.



no main drivers fitted yet so I'll go straight to the trailing frames..frames are lined and cartazzi axle reassembled...there are a few spots that I will address later with the lining but it's not far off. as can be sem..cartazzi, steps, springs and associated parts have been refitted.



Lastly a view from the rear....




Next week will involve removing the paint from the driver rims and refitting any other parts that are ready....should be looking like a loco again in a few weeks....

cheers

Pete

 

[mswjr]

Nice work,What are you using to line it with a bow pen or something else,Only asking as i have some lining to do on mine,and not looking forward to it, Thanks

[greenglade]

I do most using the 'Bob Moore' lining pen, I make up various jigs for spacing and also make use of templates when required...this latest lining was all done by hand with a suitable guide fitted to the pen, two goes with the pen is usually enough for a good edge. A fine cloth with folded edge and dipped in white spirit can clean the line up if not perfect...give the base coat plenty of time to dry first though or the white spirit can damage the base coat. I won't do the wheel centres (black with white lining) for about a month to give the green time to harden. when it comes to the cab, tender and boiler I'll probably leave it for longer as there's much more involved in the lining.

 

if you don't already have it get Chris Vines 'How not to paint a locomotive' it will answer all of your questions re painting

 

cheers

 

Pete

[greenglade]

main wheels back on....will line the axles later...

 

[greenglade]

Good evening all

I have 3 photo's for tonight, not much to show but I have done a lot behind the scenes which I'll give details on. As some will know it was also time for my classic car's MOT which she flew through even though I was worried about the new MOT rules.
So what have I been doing other than the car?...I have stripped down the various running board sections and taking care of any blemishes ready for painting. This involved removing the 6 splashers and loctiting in some of the 10BA csk screws in my bid to reduce the number that need undoing to remove the boards, I did mention this plan before, well it's now done, only approx 10 screws but it all helps, I'll file down the ends once the loctite has cured. Any dips (particularly around the splasher support rivets have been filled with cellulose putty, they are all very fine dings so didn't require a heavier filler. After that I moved on to the smokebox and removed all of the furniture including the door ring. I did this as I wasn't happy with the finish on the tube which had many machining lines along it's length which would have showed once painted. This brings me to the first picture which shows the tube now with a nice flat finish thanks to an hour with the orbital sander, as can be seen I did this in the garden relaxing (as best I could) under the parasol...it was hot.
I have ordered a tube of plumbers flue sealant which will be here tomorrow, this is black and rated for up to 300c. Plan is to reassemble all of the furniture that will be black same as the smokebox using the sealant to seal all of the 12BA bolt holes, door ring will also be sealed with said sealant. I'll refit the handrails, builders plates and ejector elbow after paint. The smokebox tube will also be sealed to the saddle and I'll paint the whole assembly as one unit. of course I'll go through the same process with the door and it's associated furniture. Hope that lot makes sense..



Next we have the buffer stocks painted in gloss black, I was hoping to line these today having sprayied them last week, but on closer inspection I could see marks from being held in the chuck (note to self, must get some soft jaws) so I keyed the buffers, filled the marks with cellulose putty, sanded down with 1200 W&D and repainted, they look much better now



lastly I have started on the buffer beam lining, it's nearly there but I find this work very straining on my eyes these days so will leave it a short while before taking another look...oh to have young eyes again...



That's it for today guys, hope to have another update end of week...

cheers

Pete




 

[Mike Boucher]

main wheels back on....will line the axles later...

 

Looks great!  A friend built a 4.75" Flying Scot about 25+ years ago, its now "stuffed and mounted" in a museum in Massachusetts.

 

I'll confess surprise that you painted the frames where the cylinder are going to be mounted...

[greenglade]

Hi Mike

 

I left the middle cylinder unpainted except primer, cylinder is back on now with no clearance issue...outside cylinders have a large 4mm thick  flange plate to go on, this won't be painted until the cylinder is mounted to it. The paint that will be trapped between the flange and frame isn't thick enough to cause any issues.

 

cheers

 

Pete

[greenglade]

 

Post by greenglade on 5 minutes ago

Evening all..

painting and reassembly are both progressing well..

First up was lining of the buffer stocks, I used my small unimat to hold the buffers, I first tried doing the turning using my electric cordless and a dremel rubber sanding wheel pushed against the lathe belt pulley, similar to how Chris described in his excellent book 'How not to paint your locomotive'. I soon gave up on this as the buffer was only pushed unto a suitable piece of brass round bar thus not secured and would stop rotating as pressure was applied with the pen. So, I tried turning the buffer by hand which worked much better giving me full control of the line, after giving two coats I turned the lathe on and using a fine brush dipped in lighter fluid I tidied up the edges of the line, this worked very well. 
Picture to show one of the buffer stocks lined.



I then moved on to reassembling the smokebox, bolting back all of the parts while giving each area a bead of silicone to ensure a good vacuum when finished. Picture shows the chimney being done first.



Once I had all of the parts back in place that will be painted the same black as the smokebox, the last part to go on was the saddle but first I needed to add two baffle plates before doing this. Picture shows the plates bolted down using 5BA csk stainless steel screws. On final assembly the plan is to bolt the plates down onto some silicone so that it compresses into the recess below. Using larger stainless screws should when the time comes help with the removeal of these plates that sit in such a hostile enviroment. To aid this I also drilled the tapping holes slightly larger to reduce any seizure of said bolts and allow sealant to penertrate to again make a good seal to maintain the vacuum. I chose csk to help with this too.



A picture to show the saddle reattached and to show that for now I have left the plate opening smaller that the saddle, this is because the cylinder exhaust has a shallow angle which will require a smaller opening, I'll trim it to final size later.I have also sealed the door ring, door was fitted first to ensure the hinge pin was vertical to saddle, the smokebox was the stood up on end as seen here to allow the door ring to set overnight.



Now a few photo's to show how far I've got...first an overhead...once the model has been on display in a few weeks time the first job after will be to finish the middle cylinder.



Close up of the front showing buffer stocks, guard irons, front steps, outside cylinder flanges and base plates for the gravity sanding boxes have been fitted



Last picture for tonight gives an overall view of how things are progressing..



If I can I want to get all running boards and smokebox assembly including the door in primer ready for the top coat by the weeks end.

Thanks for looking in guys

Pete

 

[tigerburnie]

Looking great, are you going to put some copper slip on the threads you might need to remove, we used to use it on the hot end of gas turbines to great effect.

[greenglade]

I hadn't thought of that...sounds like a good idea...Thanks for the suggestion....just hope I can remember on final assembly....

 

Cheers

 

Pete

[greenglade]

 

Post by greenglade on 5 minutes ago

Hi guys


My apologies for no update for nearly a month, I've been a little busy elsewhere plus broke one of my own rules a couple of weeks ago and tried to paint when the weather was far too hot. Spraying enamel outside in direct sunlight is not a good idea, I knew this yet tried anyway due to time constraints..bad move. The end result was paint that refused to flow out leaving a bad orange peel. I also a fair bit of dust (too windy too) so had no option but to let the paint harden and sand most of the parts (11 parts in all) until flat again, on some this meant back to primer although most the black was thick enough to remain and become a base coat. The one part that I couldn't flatten the paint on was the smokebox, there's just too many bolt heads involved so for this I had to strip all paint off with stripper and start again...such is life.
Needless to say, this took some time but now that it's done and a fresh coat has been applied today in much cooler temperatures successfully, I'm glad that I made the effort.
A little info on the paint, having used up the Precision paints black gloss that I had for this job I needed to get some more, not wanting to spend nearly £50 for 1/2 ltr from Precision, I looked elsewhere and found 1ltr of Agricultural Tractor Machinery Jet black fast drying gloss enamel for only £14 including del which I have to say is a great paint. Frome the same supplier I bought 3 pads of ultra fine metal polishing pads (these took most of the orange peel out) and also an empty 1ltr can.
The empty can is for putting the paint in when mixed with micro talc to give me a 'just off full gloss' look, I owe a big thanks to Bob (ex Precision) for the talc and the well-written instructions for mixing. Bob included the percentage that he uses to make semi-gloss which was 6.5%, I did a couple of tests and found 4% to give me the look that I was looking for, not semi but not full gloss either so that it's shinier than the semi-gloss frames but not as full as the black coachwork will be, I've made enough to do the tender soleplate and coal space when I get around to it in due course. Many thanks, Bob..

Now a few pictures to show where I am, with this done I'll be able to get much more completed before 4472 is on display, btw I had the date wrong, I now have until 1st August which is very lucky considering the set back over the last couple of weeks.

The first picture shows the running boards, I have a slight run on the left-hand board inner edge as it curves down to the cab which I think will be hidden under a step that goes here, it was my own fault for not checking the gun, I had nocked the paint adjuster while cleaning the gun and hadn't realised, needle is locked now as it should have been...lol



Here we have the smokebox and door plus the upper sections of the running boards...



Lastly the cab, no colour here yet but I did strip it down to it's component parts and give it a fresh coat of primer which means the brass window runners have now been etched ready for when I paint the cab's inside in IIRC GNR dark green. The white debris seen on the front and roof is just poly that fell from the insulation panels above, I hadn't noticed until viewing the picture after.




I have also primed the headboard and buffer vacuum standoff pipe parts ready for topcoat next week, hopefully, I'll be able to reassemble some of these parts later next week. I have two other things to sort before the 1st, a cradle to carry the loco ( now it's painted it can't be handled like before) and a method of getting the loco to the club which is still an unknown, now it's painted it can't go in my car as before, fingers crossed I'll get there...

cheers

Pete

 

Edited July 10, 2018 by greenglade

[greenglade]

Good afternoon everyone...

I have a few pictures for today with not a lot of talking for once.. I have now got everything painted and back together (I hope). A few notes, I'm happy with the paint on the frames but not satisfied with that on the smokebox, running boards etc, it's going to be some years yet before completion so I have plenty of time to rectify this later, for now, it's in colour ready for the upcoming memorial. I've not applied any green, I plan do all the green in one hit but like all plans, this could change.

First up the cab, now back on it's floor looking much better with it's fresh coat of primer.



Side view with the nameplate now fully painted, prior to this the back was still untouched. A couple of notes re the splashers, first as already stated there is no green nor of course the black and white lining, The black splasher trims are only temporary, they need to be polished steel for my chosen era, currently I plan to use the CAD drawing for the splashers kindly drawn up by John Baguley for me and get them etched or cut in nickle silver, I'll look into this soon.



I have now turned the model round to photo the front, first an overall view, the lining has been done along the valance bottom edge, full size this is 1" up from the bottom and 1/4" wide, colour is vermillion. There is also a short length of lining along the top of the frames from the smokebox, curved down to the buffer beam.



Lastly a close up of the front, there are two issues with the black that show up here, first is the orange peel on the curved running boards, I won't be able to live with this, also the door ring. This was machined from a lump of cast iron which turned out not to be the best of quality. I didn't notice any imperfections when in primer but now in black I can see many marks as if the metal is porous? This will also need to be addressed in due course, no big deal, as I said I'm a long way from completion..



I have approx 3 weeks before the big day so will try to get a few more bits done beforehand, I also need to take a look at the main axle boxes as they are far too tight since being painted which is resulting in a tight spot when turning the wheels, I can't lift the model to get it level on the display track to check which is the most offending axle, all are stiff and with no suspension on the main drivers yet the chassis is still sitting high at the rear. Of course these will loosen once I have machined the radius on the slots and loosened the horns a little but as stated before, I won't do this until most of the motion has been completed, makes it easier to get things accurate during constructing the motion and cylinder slide bars, or at least it does in my mind. I will though, get things turning smoothly as they should before on display.

cheers

Pete

 

[sagaguy]

That`s a big engine,i looked at an A3 in the mid 80s just after i finished Simplex.I got the GA from Clarksons of York but the thought of 3 cyls.& piston valves put me off.I ended up eith the Drawings & castings for Clarksons WD 2-10-0,i started it but then circumstances changed,i moved to another part of the country & the loco has stalled,however,all is not lost,at least i have some of it built but as i get older,the darn thing gets heavier.Nice to see a Scotsman being built though.

 

                            Ray.

 

 

                        

[greenglade]

Hi Ray.. I think yours is bigger than mine.......looks a nice build...hope you find time to continue your build soon...it's good for the soul sir.....

 

Pete

[sagaguy]

It`s also good for the muscles ,I have all the castings but it`s bloody heavy now,i think i may need a hoist if i carry on with it.

 

                            Ray.

[greenglade]

Yes, a hoist or helping hands is a must...I can no longer safely lift 4472 on my own, if I wish to turn the model around I have to slide one end off the bench and swivel it while pivoted on the other end...not a good idea and very nerve-racking. I need to build both a building stand and lifting trolley sometime very soon....I also need a carrying cradle now that I have paint on the model, I'm hoping that my youngest son has something suitable, he's looking into it now..

 

cheers

 

Pete

[Spitfire2865]

Yes, a hoist or helping hands is a must...I can no longer safely lift 4472 on my own, if I wish to turn the model around I have to slide one end off the bench and swivel it while pivoted on the other end...not a good idea and very nerve-racking. I need to build both a building stand and lifting trolley sometime very soon....I also need a carrying cradle now that I have paint on the model, I'm hoping that my youngest son has something suitable, he's looking into it now..

 

cheers

 

Pete

Dont feel too bad about your turning practices.  I do it too, but with quite more expensive equipment!

[greenglade]

 

Post by greenglade on 5 minutes ago

Afternoon guys...

I have a small update as I try to tackle small jobs before next weeks event but I can also now say that I most certainly will be repainting the upper black works. The funny thing is I had been thinking it may be ok after a little cutting back, I tried this in the worse and easy to get to areas and it was looking much better. However, things happen for a reason and in this case wishing to show all aspects of the build, 'warts and all' the decision of whether to or not to repaint was taken out of my hands. Due to the heat, I had spent little time in the workshop of late and had placed two clean cloths (old pillowcases in fact) over the loco to protect it from the direct sunlight (it's on the bench near the window) and keep the dust off. I removed the cloth's yesterday only to find a few areas where something had clearly reacted with the paint where touched by a cloth. I have no idea what caused this, the heat has been extreme, over 40 in the workshop window and perhaps something on the cloth has vapoured and eaten into the paint?
Anyway, it's a pain as I can't do anything about it before next week but also a good thing as I can now repaint it in a cooler climate later in the year....every cloud has a silver lining..

A picture to give an idea of what I'm describing.....



Ok, so now on with the update itself, as I said only small parts but they all have to be done at some point....loco lamps, I have temporarily removed the LED/battery and given two of the lamps a coat of white after first applying an etching primer as can be seen in this poor quality photo. Some will know that I have been discussing with fellow ME's the colour's of the tail lamp for a light engine, I'm convinced that the 1938 photo of FS with her new tender shows a red lamp, others disagree, there is reference out there to support both. I'm still undecided so, for now, have lust painted two lamps in white which I'll use for now. I'll keep looking into the 'red' lamp question and whether it's vermillion as they were pre-grouping or signal red. If anyone knows the definitive answer to this with a source please feel free to share...



Another item which has caused some discussion in the past is the tender buffer stocks, some may recall that I had painted them red, it's still an unknown for me as the 'Precision paint guide for 1923 states red? However, to keep the tender in line with the loco I have now painted them black with the same vermillion lining, which was the general consensus for the correct colour.




so having done these odds and ends it just left to fit them in their allotted positions. First up the front, I have placed the lamp in the central position as she would be when 'light engine'



Lastly, the tender with it's newly painted buffers and tail lamp with it's red lens placed on the central lamp iron for 'light engine'



I have just over a week left so I'll see what else I can get done, mind you right now I have no carrying/transport cradle nor a vehicle to move the model, hopefully, that will be sorted this week...fingers crossed...

Pete
 

Read more: http://modeleng.proboards.com/thread/5733/building-don-youngs-doncaster?page=126#ixzz5M5UnB8T6

[Mike Boucher]

It`s also good for the muscles ,I have all the castings but it`s bloody heavy now,i think i may need a hoist if i carry on with it.

 

                            Ray.

 

 

Yes, a hoist or helping hands is a must...I can no longer safely lift 4472 on my own, if I wish to turn the model around I have to slide one end off the bench and swivel it while pivoted on the other end...not a good idea and very nerve-racking. I need to build both a building stand and lifting trolley sometime very soon....I also need a carrying cradle now that I have paint on the model, I'm hoping that my youngest son has something suitable, he's looking into it now..

 

cheers

 

Pete

Years ago, Bill Morewood brought the original "Raritan" to the Waushakum Live Steamers annual meet. (https://www.waushakumlivesteamers.org/)  At the end of the day, once the engine was cool, he picked the tender up and cradled it under one arm.   Then he grabbed the stack of the loco, picked it up, and walked to his car.  Several members looked at me and said, "And that's the beauty of a smaller 3.5" gauge locomotive.  No hernias..."

 

And, when I went to get a link, in case folks are unfamiliar with either Bill or the Raritan, I found a picture of him doing just that...

 

http://ibls.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:BillMorewood_Raritan2.jpg

 

[greenglade]

Well, today was the day of Bob's memorial get together...some nice loco's in attendance along with some classic vehicles... Thank's to my son for the loan of his car and a friend, Alex for supplying the Braun to help load the loco.

As some will know I use this event as a bar to measure how far I've progressed over the last 12 months...I think things are moving along nicely..

I took 3 pictures, first from the rear, it's good to see the model out in full daylight...



next from the front....



And lastly the 'money shot' so to speak, taken from the same angle as last year...



I'm not going to start taking things apart to continue with the middle cylinder yet as I may try to get to the club's 'work in progress' night next month. I'm sure that I can find other bits to keep me busy in the meantime...

Thanks for looking in guys..

Pete

 

[sagaguy]

That`s a big engine,i looked at an A3 in the mid 80s just after i finished Simplex.I got the GA from Clarksons of York but the thought of 3 cyls.& piston valves put me off.I ended up eith the Drawings & castings for Clarksons WD 2-10-0,i started it but then circumstances changed,i moved to another part of the country & the loco has stalled,however,all is not lost,at least i have some of it built but as i get older,the darn thing gets heavier.Nice to see a Scotsman being built though.

 

                            Ray.

 

 

                         20180718_120940.jpg

There is a tight spot on the coupling rods but it will probably ride up with wear.Making the rods is quite tricky as the only rod that fits two crankpins is the centre & number.two axle.All the others have a big end on the crankpins & a small end on a tongue that is milled out from the coupling rod forming a vertical hinged joint.

 

                   Ray.

[greenglade]

Having a tight spot during construction is part and parcel of the journey Ray...there is a tight spot on mine unless you put weight on the rear...the main drivers aren't sprung yet, this and the fact that the trailing axle springs are too stiff for it's current weight is lifting the loco at the rear. Bogie isn't set yet either....to make the model look right for the event I jammed a piece of flat steel between frames and axleboxes on the leading driver...it helps but the loco is still down at the nose. In fact the trailing driver is just off the rails. Add that I haven't fettled the axlebox slots yet or machined the radius to allow them to tilt and yes it is tight. I had left all of this until later so that tbere was no movement between axle centres while I made the rods....actually it's tighter now since the paint was added (boxes are tighter in the horns)...it will all be sorted in due course....

 

Regards

 

Pete

[greenglade]

good evening all, hope you guys are having a great weekend...

I have a few more photo's than usual to show today and they are all about small parts, some weeks back I made a plea for information on the expansion link bearing oil cups that are very prominent of Gresley A1/3 Pacifics. Andy (FB page) came to my rescue having a friend who works with this beautiful locomotive, I'm not jealous...honest.. So Andy's friend took some photo's for me facing straight on with a measure next to the fitting, this was all that I needed to reproduce them in miniature. These are very small, coming out just under 7mm for the lids so a little modelers license is required for them to be working items, thanks to the photo's I could see that my original thinking of them having screw on lids was completely wrong as in fact the lids slide over the inner cup. Now I couldn't have scale thickness lids and still be able to go through the various machining processes, they are just far too thin, so the lids needed to be a little thicker, this meant the cups needed to be a little smaller OD, hopefully this will become clear as I go through the various steps..

First a picture of the offending part, this is with the lid held next to the inner cup, there's no measure in this picture but others do show clearly how big the cup and the lid are



With the photo's to hand I sat down and drew up a rough drawing to scale and gave some thought as to in what order to do things, I chose to make a start on the inner cups first. I cut up 4x 2.5mm brass hex bar in approx 1inch lengths and turned down one end a short distance to take an 8BA thread. The length of this thread and the small spigot machined on the end was chosen to fit into the bearing housing and the spigot to go a short distance into the bearing, this is a safety feature and should help keep the bearings in place. Picture shows the first part machined as stated.



Each length of threaded hex was then checked for a good fit into the housing..



having got all 4 cups to that stage I then drilled/tapped 8BA a length of larger hex bar to hold the cups for the next machining stage. Picture shows one cup in place, it was tightened with a BA spanner so that they would all be the same length(cross slide locked) and then parted to length. I have done the main machining prior to drilling the oil hole as we are dealing with brass which would probably snap where held in the chuck if either cutting the thread or parting off with a hole in it.



Next was the oil hole, I'm very limited in the bore size as the hex still needs to be machined round and small enough for the lid to slide over and not look too out of scale, so I limited myself to a 1mm hole, it's not really going to be a reservoir but will allow me to force oil through it with a nozzle that I'll make up to be a tight fit over the cup inner. The part was placed deep into the chuck and the 1mm hole drilled right through, I needed to take extra care here as the hole must stay central so that I have enough metal to machine the round section later.



And so we have the 4 inner cups with one machining operation left to do which is the rounding off the hex leaving a small section for a spanner to tighten to the housing. I've left that until after I have drilled the lids to fit as I don't want them to be too loose and get lost while in service.



I then drilled 4 lengths of 1/8th brass bar and cut to approx 1" length, the hole was drilled deep enough to fit the inner cup into, picture shows the 8 parts so far..



With the lids drilled I fitted each cup in turn back into the large tapped hex bar and machined down until the drilled lid fitted, IIRC the lid hole is 2.36mm and the inner cup was turned down a little smaller . You can't see it in this or the other photo's but I mainly used the top slide using its end stop to get everything to the same size with the cross slide locked. A further stop was fitted in the tailstock chuck. Lot's of things going on here, I have no DRO on the lathe nor dials that can be trusted so things do get a little interesting at times..



back to the lids now and they have a wider top section which has a grip and a curved face up to this, the curved face is no issue, the knurled grip is another matter as it is so small, I may revisit this at a later date if I can find something small enough to knurl this face. The actual pattern used is easy enough but the size involved may be pushing it a bit, for now I have left them plain. the picture shows the body being turned down with a profile tool as this gives a shape that's close to the prototype. again various forms of stop were used to keep all 4 lids of the same size.



Here we have all four cups finished with one showing the lid removed, the cups are more or less to scale, the lids are a little larger but not by much, they do stand a little higher which I could address later if required, I will leave it for now until I know whether there is anything suitable out there to create the grip, I did look at my drawing sets and various measuring tools. Drawing sets have plain teeth wheels which would at least make a grip just not the correct pattern, alas my vernier's which have the exact pattern are far too big, if I can find the same pattern in miniature form I may make up a knurling tool for this... there's no rush...



Lastly, a picture with the cups fitted, they don't look too bad size wise, a little high which I may sort out later as said...



thanks for taking the time to read this guys..

cheers

Pete