teetrix Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 (edited) I f I cut windows from cardboard, I get always small pieces which are blown away by the air assist and sometimes laying in the way of the laserbeam. I used small 0.5mm bars to hold the pieces in place, but those can't be cut properly with the scalpel after lasercutting. Any suggestions? Michael Edited December 17, 2017 by teetrix Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
teetrix Posted December 17, 2017 Author Share Posted December 17, 2017 Maybe a picture shows better what I mean: aP1290520 by Michael Carl, on Flickr Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Interesting- I've not yet commissioned my E2, so I've not come across this problem. The E1 is fine in this respect of course. It may be that cutting in Trotec would just hokd on enough at the right setting - but that doesn't help much with ply Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold unravelled Posted December 18, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 18, 2017 Are you able to turn off the air assist? The extractor should be enough to clear the smoke on such thin material. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
teetrix Posted December 18, 2017 Author Share Posted December 18, 2017 Thanks for the tipps - I will try it without AirAssist. Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeysarefun Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 (edited) Are you using the silicone mats? I've stopped using them with thin stock because its hard to hold sheets in place on it, and small cut off bits drop into the chambers in the mat, often sticking up at an angle out of it to interfere with the subsequent cutting. , I just place thin stuff onto a steel sheet I bought and hold it down with thin magnets. I occasionally get small offcuts blowing into the laser path but it is very rare. My main complaint is that laserweb tends to cut the outside of the window first, which gets moved slightly and then all the inner pane rectangles are misaligned. Cut2D at least cut the bounding cuts last - which is one of the many reasons I still use that with the Emblaser 2 and just use Laserweb as a gcode sender. Edited December 19, 2017 by monkeysarefun Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted December 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 19, 2017 You could do what I do on the Emblaser 1 - this is a tip from when I was using the Silhouette cutter. Grab a flat sacrificial surface (I used 3/4" ply as I had an off-cut) and spray it with 3M repositional spray glue. Take some of the tack off it using a t-shirt or similar. Place your material onto the surface and cut. If you do it right you should be able to take the finished window off the surface using a scalpel or Exacto-knife. The tackiness on the sacrificial surface will stay tacky for a long time if you keep it away from dust and hairs - as you can see from my avatar, stray hair is a given in my house. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 My main complaint is that laserweb tends to cut the outside of the window first, which gets moved slightly and then all the inner pane rectangles are misaligned. Cut2D at least cut the bounding cuts last - which is one of the many reasons I still use that with the Emblaser 2 and just use Laserweb as a gcode sender. I always have the window frames as one layer and the window panes as another layer and order the pane cutting first for exactly this reason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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