The Light

[colin penfold]

Welcome to my new 0 Gauge project – “The Light”

In a small town somewhere in England, the residents decided that the opportunity offered by the light railways act of 1896 should not pass them by. With the aid of the great Colonel Holman F Stephens they established the headquarters of a new railway which became affectionately known as “the light.” It ran from a junction with the main line to two villages whose farming communities provided much of the trade for their small town. They established their loco and carriage facilities and also provided a private siding for the business of one of their major investors.

 

Having paused my 4mm scale layout based on the DNSR I have been dabbling for a couple of months now with the possibility of a small 0 gauge layout. I need to scratch some itches - 0 gauge, DCC sound and a light railway prototype. I decided to try a wagon kit, paint some figures and purchase a couple of ready to run items for evaluation purposes. I also decided that there was no excuse in the larger scale for not having a go at building some points! For anyone who looked at my layout planning case study, the thought processes about the new layout repeat the method used there, following the guidance in Iain  Rice’s "Layout Design" published by Haynes. I will disclose up front that I have chosen to base the track plan on Iain’s “Leintwardine” design.

 

A visit to Bressingham finally tipped me over the edge

 

 

Philosophy, Standards, Scales and Terminology

The layout is going to be 32mm gauge using C&L flexitrack and hand made points. I am currently evaluating components from Marcway, C&L and Peco Individulay. I have completed an A4 turnout using a C&L kit 

Wheel standards will be to the equivalent of modern RTR, as will detail standards. Where I build kits, I will aim to meet the same standard of finish so that everything mixes comfortably.

 

Site

The chosen site for my layout is my cellar. I reluctantly concluded my DNSR Project was trying to cram too much in, so I have decided to go for a single level on one wall for this layout – a space of 10’6” by 3’ plus room for a 40” fiddle yard in an adjoining area off the main room. This is accessed through small holes punched through a dividing wall.

 

Subject

The subject of this layout is going to be a Col Stephens light railway. This is my big interest other than the DNSR. I became fascinated by the Colonel’s lines as a young volunteer at the KESR and have subsequently read lots of books on his lines. I currently live near the Mid Suffolk Light which gives me regular injections of light railway atmosphere.  My first set of stock is going to be 1930s but I aim to make any time specific items removable with a view to acquiring a set of 1950s stock later.

 

Scope

I have chosen to make a pastiche of a light railway to enable me to run any suitable stock. I shall therefore try to avoid any features which geographically tie the layout (such as Oast Houses for Kent for example)

 

Format

This is to be a simple through junction station.

 

Prototype 

This is a freelance layout based on the practice of British light railways in 1930s ( and separately the 1950s as a later development)

 

Site, Height and Light

The site I have chosen is my cellar. I did consider a purpose built shed but It's nicer not to have to leave the house, and hopefully the cellar will cost me less than the shed. I will not elaborate on the cellar work as there is a separate thread on this, see the shortcut in my signature.

The only slight problem with the cellar is an intermediate wall which is supporting and cuts the space into two. For this project, the main layout will be in the larger area, and the fiddleyard will be in the smaller space

The layout will be built in 6-8 small chunks to enable portability and to allow me to work on single modules outside or elsewhere in the house

My format is a single through station with a kick back sector plate within the viewed area doing the fiddling at one end, and a cassette fiddleyard at the other end. viewing and operating done from the front.

Mounting height  will be designed to provide a seated eye level viewing height (about 40” rail level. The module will be 15" tall to allow for backscene and lighting pelmet. Under the layout  I have a line of old kitchen cabinets for storage. 

 

Lighting

I intend to put lighting in a pelmet , and the room has fluorescent light for normal use. Iain Rice talks a lot about the benefits and disbenefits of various types of lighting in his books. I have taken on board his comments about the heat output, and will consider LEDs or low emission tubes. I think I will go for low voltage so that I don't have mains power too near to the layout.

 

Baseboards

These will be 9mm ply aligned by dowels.  As the layout will be mostly inside the railway boundary there’s not much scope for open top baseboards, but where scenery allows I will leave tops open. I will also use separate scenic modules for groups of buildings and for the scenery which covers the hidden kick-back siding, and the buildings which hide the sector plate.

I will decide on baseboard sizes when the track plan is finalised as the position of joints is more important to me than consistent sizes or portability. I will try to keep to a maximum of 40”' x 18” to allow portability.

 

Prototype Matters: Inspiration and Sources

As I said earlier, I became interested in the Colonel Stephens empire as a result of visiting the KESR My prototype railway experiences were mainly Southern Electric in and out of Waterloo. I lost interest in modelling for a while due to lack of space and focussed on photographing railways through the 80s. I have a fondness for the Blue Diesel era having been out with my camera at the time. My view of the steam railway is slightly rose tinted, based on preserved lines, books and videos. Having said that, I am motivated to try to create a model of something I never saw in real life.

 

Rationales, Lists and Logistics

I will be trying to represent a reasonably successful light railway in the 1930s. Stock will be older main line items hired or bought in. I plan to retain main line company liveries for hired in stock and won’t be inventing a name or livery for my light railway company.

I will use kits and scratchbuilding for railway and non-railway buildings and use real light railway buildings as a basis. You will see corrugated iron and timber in the railway buildings and red brick elsewhere to give a geographically neutral picture

 

The "Wish List"

• Trains passing on single line
• A bit of shunting for interest
• A small area to replicate the Don Breckon painting "Morning Delivery"
• A scenic Loco Shed area to display locos when not in use
• Coal and water for locos
• A junction to justify loco changes, combining and splitting of trains
• A private siding to justify extra traffic
• A small signal box
• A double sided signal with two arms for opposite directions on one post
• Nice arrangement of rail and road bridges over river (photo in a book I have)
• Inset track in both setts and ash
• I may try to scratch build a Ford railcar set
• I may have a go at a radio controlled road vehicle so roadways will go off scene at suitable points.

The technical factors and constraints:

• DCC with sound on all locos
• Points and signals driven by tortoise motors
• 3 link / screw couplings
• Sprung buffers
• 1gram per mm standard vehicle weight where feasible
• Feeds to all sections of track using BUS and droppers
• Eye level viewing
• Code 124 track with chairs ( I know lighter section and spiked would be more “light railway” but I’d be worried about reliability)
• Maximum loco length scale 50’ (350mm)
• Maximum train length 130’ (910mm) including loco
• Curves  will be minimum of 72" but there will be very few curves on the layout. The cellar is not big enough to consider an oval layout or even a fiddleyard at 90’ to the main station.
• Maximum 100mm (4 inch) headroom requirement to pass through the wall - I don't / won’t  own any tall or out of gauge vehicles.
• I will adopt Gauge 0 guild standards for 6’ way, platform clearances etc.

 

Operational Design

Fiddle yard will be cassettes.I liked the ones on the Kirkwood layout which use UPVC Guttering

The control position will be at the front but I don’t plan at this stage to have a panel. I’m going to use the accessory controls on the DCC controller I buy.

 

Visual Design and Presentation

The station will be at one end of the modelled area with a road bridge scenic break and the suggestion that the platforms continue beyond the bridge. Within the modelled area will be a sector plate kick back representing the other direction. This will be hidden by the goods shed and private siding warehouse

Buildings at the back of the layout will be up a slope which will hide the kick back siding. Due to this rising ground the backscene will be sky only.

The whole station area will be framed by wings and arch with lighting pelmet, combining to frame the layout. These will be painted. I think that I agree with Iain Rice's view that matt black is wrong for the job, especially in a small cellar room where I think it might cause a claustrophobic effect. Iain suggests satin paint in a colour that blends with the layout (he mentions sage green) and I will experiment with lighter shades to create a feeling of space in the room. The balance is between making an effective frame that leads the eye into the modelled area and blanks off the harsh reality beyond.

 

Track Planning

I have a draft layout in Anyrail, using Iain Rice’s Leintwardine as a basis. This provides a light railway junction station, Carriage and loco works and a small goods yard

 

 

I have a first draft of how the buildings will overlay the track layout

 

 

I have still to decide on the baseboard joins

I will probably try a 3D mockup for this layout, which I have not done before.

Edited December 28, 2017 by colin penfold

[colin penfold]

As I said above, I have been dabbling a bit. Here are some figures I painted - the bigger scale certainly makes life easier here. Although the loco crews will spend most of their time in the cab, I decided to standardise on drilling a hole in every figure's leg for a pin which will enable easy siting and repositioning of figures on the layout. Easy  enough in a pillar drill. The figures are from Hobby Holidays. Hope you like them

 

 

 

 

 

 

[colin penfold]

I also tried a wagon kit - a 12 ton van from Peco. Went together very well except for the buffers, where the shanks simply didn't fit in the collars. Took a lot of filing to get them to fit. I used this as one of my pieces on a Pendon weathering course and am very happy with the end product.

 

 

 

 

[colin penfold]

My first attempt at hand built track went reasonably well I think.

 

I particularly wanted to avoid the moulded frog and excessively thick tie bars of proprietary track if I could. You be the judge

 

 

This attempt is from a C&L A4 point kit, but I simply couldn't get on with the Ambis tie bar they supplied. I had bought a pack of Just Like the Real Thing tie bars so I tried them. Being etched brass, they would obviously cause a short if you soldered them up out of the packet. I used Araldite but one of my first 2 still retained electrical continuity. The subsequent ones were made with a paper insert glued to one half before the second half was glued on top. No continuity problems with this batch.

 

 

I am no great shakes with a soldering iron do was a little nervous of attaching them to the point blades. I tinned the blades in preparation and then popped a suitable thickness of corrugated card into the tie bar positions and then slid them in. The card had just enough springiness to hold them in position but they had a tendency to flip sideways so the pins were deployed to stop that. That held the tie bars in perfect positon. A little dab of solder cream and apply heat - sorted!  I decided not to remove the connection for the point motor from one of the tie bars as I may drill two holes in the baseboard and retain the option of fitting the motor to either one (to cover for failures)

 

 

 

 

 

My next attempt will use some Peco and Marcway products which are cheaper and currently much easier to obtain. I will then compare the appearance of the two and decide whether I can avoid C&L altogether (or at least until they can do online card payments and deliver in less than a month)

[Mallard60022]

Admirable pointy stuff there Mr. Pinfield. All this pointing malarky is catching on.

Phlab

[2ManySpams]

A very promising start old bean. Well done that man...

[colin penfold]

Cheers Chris. Not as ambitious as you with my trackwork but I'm really enjoying the big stuff so far.

[colin penfold]

My lovely and clever wife has made a cushion for the step in the cellar. Anyone recognise the blast from the past?

 

[2ManySpams]

My lovely and clever wife has made a cushion for the step in the cellar. Anyone recognise the blast from the past?

20171231_112341.jpg

Very clever...anti-gravity BR cushion.

[2ManySpams]

That's better...

 

[colin penfold]

And now a chair....

 

Edited December 31, 2017 by colin penfold

[2ManySpams]

And now a chair....

2017-12-31_15.31.46.jpg

Be careful not to fall asleep...

[colin penfold]

Sorry i spoilt that joke by putting the chair upright, didn't I?

[gwrrob]

Be careful not to fall asleep...

 

I couldn't sleep with that lamp shade in the room.  

[colin penfold]

Self-portrait! Actually if you knew what it cost your face would look like that too.

Edited December 31, 2017 by colin penfold

[Cheshire001]

I made a very small 'pointless' O-gauge layout last year.   I had acquired a small fleet of 5 locos and needed something a bit better than a test track to run them on.   You know how these projects just grow!

 

Just a couple of thoughts on couplings.   I note you intend to use 3-link couplings and indeed all my stock was fitted with them.   However, i would urge caution.   One night I sat coupling a wagon up with my reading glasses on, a little hook and a torch.  The wagon was being pushed about as i tried to hook the coupling.   I wasn't getting much satisfaction.   I hit on the idea of using the centre loop of a small paper clip as a "1-link coupling".   Only need fit it to one end of each wagon.   Much easier to handle.   

 

At a show in Manchester last year we spoke to a friend who was exhibiting an O-gauge inglenook.   The only engine was a Minerva Peckett which ran beautifully with excellent DCC sound (don't know what make).   Anyway, he was using magnetic couplings (maybe DG, can't remember that either!)   There was only one problem in the hour we stood watching it and I have to say that for an exhibition layout the auto couplings were much better than hands and torches!

 

I take it you have already bought a Terrier - I hope it runs as well as mine did straight out of the box.   After seeing the loco crewmen in post #2, I am very tempted.   Love the guy with the beard!

[colin penfold]

Thanks Cheshire and welcome across from my old thread!

 

Im determined with the three links for no better reason than liking the prototypical appearance and movement. I don't plan loads of stock purchases so it will never be a massive task to change.

 

You're right, I do have the terrier and it was joined on Christmas day by a Minerva Peckett weathered very nicely by Trains 4U at Peterborough.

[colin penfold]

I have been working on a couple of buildings. This little generic signal box is from Peco. It's not finally assembled as i need to buy/make some interior details to go with the Severn Models frame and block shelf. I am also collecting a seated signalman from Alan at Modelu.

 

Pretty much built as per the instructions but with minor surgery to open a window. I have also posed the door half open to enable a better view of the interior.

 

 

 

[2ManySpams]

Interesting topic - couplings in 7mm. Something I've given quite a lot of thought to and have played with a variety of automatic couplings. I was beginning to think perhaps 3 links would be OK and far less faff to make and fit than other options. However, to film my Christmas delivery of sprouts to the good people of Pencarrow, I used the 3 links in the Minerva Pannier and the Lionheart 16T wagons.

 

I'm obviously not well practiced with a coupling hook but even so, what a frustrating faff. With the rear siding up to 2'6" from the front of the board, it's just too far away to see clearly what you're doing. So automatic couplings will definitely be used, I want shunting my shunting layout to be enjoyable.

 

Yes three links are largely prototypical and look better but IMO, and in my situation with Pencarrow, not worth the frustration when actually shunting stock.

[colin penfold]

Pointwork update.

 

I have now completed the point which was going to use a mixture of non-C&L components to test the viability of a completely non-C&L turnout.

 

I used the stock rails and blades from a Marcway kit. These are fine, and a good match to C&L. Marcway dont currently supply a ready made crossing so I used a Peco one. Marcway supply copperclad sleepers so I have saved them for some inset track and used a pack of Peco sleepers instead.

 

The Peco Vee comes shaped but not assembled and I found soldering it very difficult. I also decised the wing and check rails far too short so I made my own.

 

 

I wouldn't use peco blades as they are far too short in my view and require a joint where the C&L point has a dummy joint in solid rail.

 

The next issue of compatibility comes with chairs and rail section. C&L and Marcway are both more girder like and the Peco a better bullhead shape, but that does mean Peco chairs won't work on non-Peco track.

 

 

Peco on left

 

 

Side by side chairs. Peco is darker.

 

 

Effect on Peco chair of forcing C&L track into it. See how the base deforms.

 

 

The point construction requires some cosmetic fishplates. Peco are weird. They are designed for a join between different rail sections (surely you would need a functional fishplate for that?) To make them useful I had to trim some material from the profile and file the back face flat. A faff I'd rather not have had.

 

 

 

 

So in conclusion you could make a whole point from Peco components but for me there are too many compromises. I'll use their timbers again and buy some plain rail to use up the chairs. I won't use their point blades or Crossing Vee so will be hoping to buy enough C&L for my needs.

 

Comparison of the finished all C&L item and hybrid

 

[colin penfold]

My third turnout was another experiment. I used the other C&L A4 kit but built it on a Templot template with a slight curve on what would have been the straight side. Almost a Y point but not symmetrical. Enjoyed the challenge of this one. The layout needs six points in all so I'm halfway!

 

[colin penfold]

Next on the workbench is a bogie coach. I need one for clearance testing during tracklaying and there's nothing RTR so here goes!

 

It's a Slaters 7C036 45' Clayton Arc Roof. I'm building it as a brake composite.

 

Today after a nice walk in the sun I have made the basic underframe

 

 

As it is a modular kit covering multiple diagrams you have to pick the correct elements and glue your side together.

 

They suggest fixing a straight edge to a glass or formica so i have followed their advice.

 

 

 

Finally I assembled the first class seating. The kit supplies anough of this for the thirds as well (you just shorten the cushion) but i am contemplating making wooden benches for the thirds so I wanted dimensions to work from.

 

[2ManySpams]

Good to see you making smashing progress on your new 7mm project. Looks like you're getting to grips with the change in scale very well. I've had lots of very useful support and advice from folk on here to help me along. Hope you get the enjoyment you're looking for from this project.

[bgman]

Colin,

 

Thanks for the info regarding the tie bars, much appreciated, sorry I hadn't come across this build thread so count me in on the watch list as of today.

 

Seem we're running parallel, so to speak, at the moment as I am almost complete in the point building department.

 

I have tried a couple of build methods and now gone for copper clad construction due to the unfortunate ( current ) timescales in obtaining items from C & L.

I want to get on and whilst it may not be my preferred method I can live with it for now.

 

I've tried using Peco chairs on obechi sleepers

 

and a modified Peco point

 

Copper clad

 

 

and settled on this for a track plan...ish

 

 

Sorry to invade your thread with my carp but just to illustrated that there are other hybrid ways which are fun to experiment with and possibly money saving too !

 

Grahame 

 

 

[bgman]

Forgot to mention, Chris ( Spams ) put me onto these really useful gauges and I've found them to be excellent to use when laying my track

 

 

Two folding etches per pack and at only £ 4.50 a good investment IMHO.

 

Grahame