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On 01/11/2019 at 12:15, colin penfold said:

Thank you for your kind comments. The workbenches with the cutting board, soldering station, pillar drill and test track are all on heavy duty full extension drawer runners. They slide fully out until the back is where the front was when stowed. They feel very sturdy in themselves. My only concern was the balance of the whole unit, so I added the extendinng legs at the bottom to counter any possible forward tipping of the whole unit. These are the runners https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-of-Drawer-Runners-Slides-GTV-Full-Extension-45mm-Ball-Bearing-Runner-/251398193891

 

On 01/11/2019 at 12:16, Fat Controller said:

Thanks very much for your prompt reply, Colin. 

 

FYI  Cheaper at Screwfix.

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Thanks Rob but people need to be careful in selecting heavy duty bearing versions not cheap ones. The ones at screwfix that equate to the ones I bought are 5.99 a pair. I wouldn't trust the cheaper ones to be up to the task. The height of the runners (45mm in my case) is an indicator of their strength in the vertical plane. You can also see ball bearings along the lenth of the runner which give smooth operation as well as load bearing capacity.

 

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4 hours ago, colin penfold said:

Thanks Rob but people need to be careful in selecting heavy duty bearing versions not cheap ones. The ones at screwfix that equate to the ones I bought are 5.99 a pair. I wouldn't trust the cheaper ones to be up to the task. The height of the runners (45mm in my case) is an indicator of their strength in the vertical plane. You can also see ball bearings along the lenth of the runner which give smooth operation as well as load bearing capacity.

 

Yes that's a good point Colin.  Screwfix do seem to have quite a few options.

 

I almost put a link in but didn't know what length you'd used.  I was comparing like with like (in fact, the Screwfix ones seem to be rated at 45kg rather than 35kg but perhaps that's just the limitations of the eBay description since the 350mm ones are 35kg).

 

These are what I meant which appear to match the price you quoted.  I actually have a few awaiting use in a traverser and, although I haven't put them to use yet, I'm pleased with the quality.  I have just measured them and they are 45mm high.

 

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Hi Rob. I'm sorry I didn't realise the link I added had reset to a multiple choice options. Mine are 300mm which were 4.69 a pair post free although I have some 450mm in stock from the same supplier ( for my 00 fiddleyard traverser )

 

I agree the ones in your link look similar quality. Nice to have options especially for those of us with a local branch.

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some decent progress on the Ford

 

I have reinstalled and tested the chip, speaker and stay alive in the non-powered car. The chip fits neatly between floor and chassis, I made a small mount for the 8 pin socket out of plasticard. It fits neatly between the floor and body, and is held in place by the body retaining screws. The socket can just be seen between the stay alive and the speaker Having tested everything I have now fixed it all in place. The speaker and stay alive are held in be black mastic. Any coloured wires which can be seen when the set is on the rails will be painted black

 

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Intrusion into the car body won't be too bad. This is the floor.

 

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Issues still to resolve are the saloon lighting and headlamps ( the wires for both can be seen in the foreground and are both on 4 pin mini plugs to allow future disconnection of the bodies, and also the seven wires that bridge between the two cars. I have ordered some square section hollow and u-channel plastruct which I hope to glue to the coupling bar to keep the wires under control and minimise their visual impact.

 

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Meantime, the bodies have been primed and sprayed in Plastikote nut brown. I need to do the glazing and fit the headlamp and saloon lighting once this is dry. Roof will be permanently glued to the body because the headlight is on the roof.

 

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Progress today - the saloons are both glazed and it's beginning to look a lot like a Ford Railcar set!

 

Apologies for the left hand car not sitting down properly on the chassis. I will sort that when the glue is dry on the glazing.

 

The third picture is a test of the brightness of the LED lamp in the saloon. It's bright enough and I believe there are some CV settings I can play with to dim is and to make it a bit "warmer" too

 

Passengers and driver still to fit, a couple of tool boxes and brush painting of chassis, bonnet and mudguards etc.

 

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Well, since I last posted the Ford has been fighting me at every turn. Lights failed, it started to run really badly on test and then things that were securely fitted in place started to fall off as I tried to rectify the emerging issues. The running problem was a wire which was routed too near to the motor and was causing rubbing friction. The lights were replaced and all reassembled. Then the sound failed! Real mojo-killing issues. Anyhow I have today finished the basic paint job and removed the chip (again!) to go back for repair and that's where I will stop until the chip comes back. She runs well now so I am happy I will have a working unit. It will just need the chip reinstalling, and a light weathering before being ready for service. Apart from this rash of issues preventing me crossing the finish line, I have really enjoyed this kit and would recommend it to anyone with a light railway themed layout. It's a real signature vehicle for a Stephens line.

 

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Tomorrow, I return to the Ilfracombe goods which has its own thread

 

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I very much like the Ford railcar, Colin, definitely a 'must have' for a Col. Stephens type light railway.

 

I'd be a bit concerned about the spots of rust on the tyres, though, do you have a cunning plan involving some gentle abrasion and possibly a bit of polishing?

 

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Thanks CK. I think it's actually a bit of brown paint rather than rust. My intention is to clean the wheels after weathering because more unwelcome stuff will get on the tyres then too. I usually find IPA and a fibreglass pen do the trick.

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1 hour ago, colin penfold said:

Thanks CK. I think it's actually a bit of brown paint rather than rust. My intention is to clean the wheels after weathering because more unwelcome stuff will get on the tyres then too. I usually find IPA and a fibreglass pen do the trick.

 

There are some other alternatives mate !

 

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S.Hiny

 

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Courtesy of my RMWeb gold membership I went to Warley yesterday and saw some wonderful modelling. Highlights for me were Norwich Central, Kimble and Nafferton. I have to admire Nafferton and Norwich for the fact that they are both built by individuals and were exhibiting for the first time. I have to confess a pang of disappointment that Norwich wasn't a club layout. They were such a great bunch of people so willing to engage with the audience as well as brilliant modellers I might well have joined! Plus that GER blue :wub:

I also got some great advice in a chat with the loco clinic man on the Gauge O Guild stand, which will hopefully help with my Ilfracombe Goods build.

Plus I tried a very nice local beer on Friday night.

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