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colin penfold
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glue having hardened i have finished off three cassettes. Small sliver of solder between the rail and the brass tube gives stability and connectivity.

 

Seen here joined together with end caps in place.

 

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Close up of the end cap. I removed the supplied rubber gasket which made it too tight to get them on and off. There's still a sprung clip which hols them securely enough.

 

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I'm not going to make any more for now. I want to test them in action and progress to a fully running layout first. My main concern is the strength of the bond between brass rod and PVC. I have used two part epoxy and had one or two failures during assembly, so I want to be sure they are going to be reliable in service.

 

 

Hi Colin,

 

I like this idea very much, can I ask how ridged / flexible you've found the guttering to be so far when stock has been placed onto it.

 

My concern would be if it was "loaded" with a loco knowing the weight of these beasts.

 

Grahame

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I have made a seperate small loco cassette so i dont plan to be manoeuvring a long cassette with a heavy loco on one end. The longest one is 5 wagons long (2 feet) and seems plenty rigid enough. I don't intend to go longer than that.

 

Hope that helps G

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I have made a seperate small loco cassette so i dont plan to be manoeuvring a long cassette with a heavy loco on one end. The longest one is 5 wagons long (2 feet) and seems plenty rigid enough. I don't intend to go longer than that.

 

Hope that helps G

 

 

Thank you Colin, I assumed that would be the case, very wise.

 

Grahame

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 My main concern is the strength of the bond between brass rod and PVC. I have used two part epoxy and had one or two failures during assembly, so I want to be sure they are going to be reliable in service.

 

You could use copper-clad paxolin (circuit) board instead of the plasticard strips. Then you could solder the brass tubes and rails directly to it, not forgetting to cut an insulating slot in the copper between the rails!

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You could use copper-clad paxolin (circuit) board instead of the plasticard strips. Then you could solder the brass tubes and rails directly to it, not forgetting to cut an insulating slot in the copper between the rails!

Thanks Duncan. You are right obviously, but i decided against that because it was not the right thickness to match the sleeper height of the flexi. Also, therre would still be a glue joint between paxolin and PVC. Having said that, if I get any failures with the current arrangements I would certainly try it.

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Discovered something interesting today about my Dapol wagons.

 

The red one has a white stripe to show which end the end door is. Sadly the red one doesn't have an end door at all!!! The black one has an end door but does not have the markings.

 

Poor QC and/or attention to accuracy.

 

post-12721-0-92296600-1538689907_thumb.jpg

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Thoughts are turning to having a go at my first 7mm loco kit. Many light railways used 060 tender engines and as nothing suitable is available RTR this looks like the way to go. Lack of outside mmotion will help simplify construction.

 

I am looking for help choosing. Id be really grateful to hear from anyone who has built any of the following as to their ease of construction, completeness, motor and wheel choice etc. I am experienced building rolling stock kits in oo and o but not in loco construction.

 

SR Stirling 01 (SER kits)

SECR C Class (Javelin models)

Ilfracombe Goods (Laurie Griffin)

LNWR Webb (Mercian LNW6)

 

Thanks in anticipation

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just before heading off to the Cotswolds for the great ANTB gathering I thought I'd post some progress on my latest rolling stock project, an ex MR 6 wheel brake third.

 

Sides are coloured before adding door furniture and glazing. My new 2 for 1 fetish continues. One sjde teak grained effect, the other Renault Etruscan red with (deliberately fading) gold lining.

 

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The underframe is complete aand you might just spot the light bar using Layouts 4u lighting system with reed switch as per my last coach. Slight change this time, i have set the battery holder into the floor so i can glue the roof on but still have access to change the battery.

 

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Compartment partitions seating and luggage racks done

 

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Ends done (the other one is plain)

 

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Roof - rain strips lamp tops and gas piping done. Texture added and left to set.

 

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Roof now on. Complete except for some light weathering in due course. I'm very pleased with this, and it will go well with the MR bogie vehicle I built previously (both from Slaters)

 

 

 

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Edited by colin penfold
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over the last few weeks I have been building some mock up buildings and assembling the supporing structure for the raised areas at the back of the layout.

 

Here are a few shots of where I'm at. The roof of the mill (centre front) is all wrong and the carriage and loco sheds need to be taller. I'm wondering whether to put the church tower in the back left corner (beyond the lych gate) and to add a suggestion of a bigger building behind the skytrex warehouse (the grey building)

 

All opinions invited.

 

 

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Hi Colin,

 

Is it worth just making some paper mock-ups again and seeing what suits your needs ?

 

I'd like to suggest something but might be easier to see what you want to do ultimately.

 

Yours

 

A bit undecided of Devon

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Hi Colin,

 

Is it worth just making some paper mock-ups again and seeing what suits your needs ?

 

I'd like to suggest something but might be easier to see what you want to do ultimately.

 

Yours

 

A bit undecided of Devon

I think that's what I will do. I find it much easier to use 3d mockups to visualise. I think a church tower will make that corner too cramped and be too close to the back of the finished cottage. The bigger industrial building on the other hand, I'm quite optimistic. I think it will give good balance.

 

Art. E. Farty

 

P.S. are you off to Reading next week?

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I think that's what I will do. I find it much easier to use 3d mockups to visualise. I think a church tower will make that corner too cramped and be too close to the back of the finished cottage. The bigger industrial building on the other hand, I'm quite optimistic. I think it will give good balance.

 

Art. E. Farty

 

P.S. are you off to Reading next week?

 

 

I think it'll be the best approach for now until you're happy with it visually.

 

Reading ? 

 

Uncertain at the moment, had my grandsons christening today and another family related event supposed to be arranged for next week too ( Aaaarrrgggh ! ) 

If not then it'll have to be Bristol in January I'm afraid.

 

Cheers

 

G

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not a lot of modelling time this weekend due to spending all day yesterday at Reading trade show. Just time to try out this wagon floor insert from Poppys Wood Tech.

 

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Reason for this is that the Dapol wagons are feather light. A loaded wagon can be weighted easily but weighting the underframe is tricky so I wondered aboud a false floor to hide the weights in an empty wagon. Does it show? Opinions invited. One downside is you can't pose it with the side door open.

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not a lot of modelling time this weekend due to spending all day yesterday at Reading trade show. Just time to try out this wagon floor insert from Poppys Wood Tech.

 

attachicon.gif20181202_112706.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20181202_112628.jpg

 

Reason for this is that the Dapol wagons are feather light. A loaded wagon can be weighted easily but weighting the underframe is tricky so I wondered aboud a false floor to hide the weights in an empty wagon. Does it show? Opinions invited. One downside is you can't pose it with the side door open.

 

Of those two pictures, I think it works better on the top wagon than the bottom, probably because the bottom seems to be a 5 plank, so a little more noticeable. Otherwise, once painted/weathered, (?) could look particularly effective.

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