Guest Jim Read Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 Found this thread whilst looking for info about Scalescenes products and whether or not they are anygood, I'd never made one before so the free download was an incentive to have a go. I bought some really good quality 1mm and 2mm card from a lady who sells the stuff on eBay and got 10 sheets of each for about £12 and then made the smallwarehouse No1. I was really surprised at the amount of detail and the ease with which the kit went together. Here's a pic of the completed item; I will have to make a layout now to go with it and have bought a van and an 08 shunter and the drawing is to make some points. It will be a micro layout just under 4 sq ft including the fiddle yard and will be a sort of industrial exchange siding type of thing. I will make a platform to sit the building on and I'm just looking at the other warehouse kit with an idea of using it to run one of the sidings into. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Well if that's your first go at it I can see some great card models coming up! Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 First time lucky Doug I'll probably make a total b----cks up of the next one! :-) And Thanks nice of you to say so Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LN Lancs Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Excellent work Jim, I've just come across Scalescenes myself and am really impressed by their originality and ease of going together. Your work is certainly an inspiration to someone ready to "take the plunge", well done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Thanks LN you'll find them very easy to do and the instructions are very good as well. The one thing I have found is that I didn't put enough el cheapo (£0.99 for 3 big 'uns) glue stick on and got some air bubbles. I managed to get the paper off the card and was able to use the sheet again, this time I coated it front to back, side to side and round in little circles then held it up to the light at angle and still was able to see some 'dry' bits. This worked a treat and I've just flexed a new sheet and no sign of any bubbles, so I don't think its the quality of the glue merely the amount you must put on - lots and lots of it! Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Nice work Jim. Have you tried 3M spray mount? I use it quite a lot during graphics projects with the kids I teach, and whilst it is quite expensive a can lasts for ages (as long as I keep a close eye on the kids) and it gives a flat bubble free finish. Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Nice work Jim. Have you tried 3M spray mount? I use it quite a lot during graphics projects with the kids I teach, and whilst it is quite expensive a can lasts for ages (as long as I keep a close eye on the kids) and it gives a flat bubble free finish. Bob Just the question I was going to ask - but which grade is best? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Dear Bob and CB I have used that 3M spray the one in the Blue tin and the one in Red tin, I had to mount some prints for a photographic exhibition (my other pastime). I used the Red one and I'm sorry I can't remember why. Fortunately I tried it first in the spare room, where I found the overspray fell onto the carpet, it was still a bit sticky some years later! The other thing I found was the pong, nasty! so I made a 'spray booth' out of some cardboard boxes, wore a mask and did the job in the shed with the door open. I think making sure that the el cheapo glue stick goes on thickly is a lot easier. Here's a pic of the way I mount photographic prints now, a box frame with the print glued on with PVA and then covered in Matt Mod Podge; Oh and before I forget I use a roller, its an old photographic wooden one about 50 mm wide and 40 mm Dia, and this will get the paper nice and flat on the card and help to spread the glue stick stuff evenly. Rollers or printmakers Brayers can be bought in all sorts of widths, someone on eBay is bound to be selling them. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Oh and before I forget I use a roller, its an old photographic wooden one about 50 mm wide and 40 mm Dia, and this will get the paper nice and flat on the card and help to spread the glue stick stuff evenly. Rollers or printmakers Brayers can be bought in all sorts of widths, someone on eBay is bound to be selling them. I use red and a wooden wallpaper seam roller for my exhibition stuff. And plenty of newspaper for the overspray. And the windows are open. Think I'll give it a try for the buidings. [Edit] Arrrggghhhh! They've changed the colours! http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Super-77/Super77/SprayAdhesive/Product-Information/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE204A00_assetType=MMM_Article&PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE204A00_assetId=1114284886356&PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE204A00_univid=1114284886356#7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE204A00 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold traction Posted April 7, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 7, 2010 I tried using the spray mount for my buildings and could never get on with it. In the end I went back to using the glue stick. I find it works very well as long as you put loads on, I also have some big heavy books that I put on top of the glued parts, this keeps everything nice and flat while the glue dries. Cheers Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scalescenes Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Many thanks for posting those images Jim, very nice build indeed! My bubble free method for mounting the sheets is to give the receiving card surface a really good coat of glue stick (horizontal and vertical coats). I then position the sheets and use a lino printing rubber roller to smooth out the surface. Using a roller really aids adhesion too. I agree with Ian, I have been using glue sticks (UHU) for years now and have found them to have excellent long term adhesion as long as you give the card a really good even coating. I also quite like the way that the get a few minutes grace to adjust the paper if necessary before two surfaces bond. Glue sticks are cheap, dependable and don't stink out the whole house! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meple Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Just the question I was going to ask - but which grade is best? RED is permanent BLUE is repositionable Horses for courses - there's no best - it depends what you want to do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Dear John, Thanks for the nice comment, most of it is down to your skill as a designer and an instruction writer, I know just how difficult this can be, I try to teach people to make their own web sites. One thing I haven't mentioned is weathering, thanks for the tip about using pastels I used some el cheapo Ocaldo ones (they are in Lichfield I think) and I've got the Landscape set with lots of earth colours. I did try the cotton bud idea and it does work but I found my little finger even better, bigger fingers tend to put it on too thickly though that might be better for 0 Gauge. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 I forgot about the fumes. Perhaps that is why the kids seem a lot happier at the end of a lesson when we have been using it! Damit I thought it was my dynamic teaching Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Rickard Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 My bubble free method for mounting the sheets is to give the receiving card surface a really good coat of glue stick (horizontal and vertical coats). I then position the sheets and use a lino printing rubber roller to smooth out the surface. Using a roller really aids adhesion too. Ahh! I've been doing the opposite of that, which means the paper puckers, and you've got the fun and games of trying to wrangle a thin, very wobbly, and very sticky bit of paper into place. I know I've got a roller of some sort somewhere, so I'll give that a bash. Good tip! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Regarding Glue sticks, I have tried various brands, Pritt, W H Smiths, Wilkinsons and my favourite now is a cheapo one that comes in a pack of five for around a pound, they have a picture of a monkey on them, seems to be a different type of adhesive than the pritt stick, it seems more solid and less messy. I also have some of the Pritt powersticks, which I find useful for gluing the edges when wrapping as you don't need as much and it sticks so well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 When gluing a large area I keep a little piece of damp foam sponge to hand and give a quick wipe over with that before gluing together. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hymek2 Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 When using spray mount adhesive in the printing industry to produce artwork, we used to use liquid lighter fuel (the stuff in yellow tins with a red tip up spout) and cotton wool to clean away overspray or remnants of where something had been repositioned. Haven't tried it on this type of printed sheet yet but its probably worth a try. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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