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7 hours ago, woodyfox said:

I use folded thin black card on my DMU's. It's really easy to do. 

 

IMG_20210330_155616.jpg

 

I am wondering how easy it might be to make something similar for each side of the gangway. If I made them out of thick paper rather than thin card I just might get away with it. I'll experiment and report back

 

Out of interest do your scissors assemblies work?

 

Paul R

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I used to make gangways in 4mm with black craft paper.  This is slightly heavier than regular paper.

 

P1010003-002.JPG.de5bfcdec302898c4fdbe80c19c9b837.JPG

 

You need to get the right amount of folds.  Too few and there will be daylight, too many and it will too tight and derailments will happen.  When the folds are right, there is no daylight and the gangways act as a spring when propelling.

 

John

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10 minutes ago, brossard said:

I used to make gangways in 4mm with black craft paper.  This is slightly heavier than regular paper.

 

P1010003-002.JPG.de5bfcdec302898c4fdbe80c19c9b837.JPG

 

You need to get the right amount of folds.  Too few and there will be daylight, too many and it will too tight and derailments will happen.  When the folds are right, there is no daylight and the gangways act as a spring when propelling.

 

John

 

 

Thats what I used to do when I modelled 4mm. I still have my 4mm Prototype HST and one of the ways we used to do this was when I was in the Norwich club was to have the gangway on one end only with a banking plate on the adjoining coach. You couldn't tell that they were not two separate sets in many cases. 

 

Paul R

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1 hour ago, pwr said:

 

I am wondering how easy it might be to make something similar for each side of the gangway. If I made them out of thick paper rather than thin card I just might get away with it. I'll experiment and report back

 

Out of interest do your scissors assemblies work?

 

Paul R

I've considered working scissors but the effort required would never meet the reward in my mind..... but we're all different. I only do one car and once coupled there's no gap:

IMG_20210806_162537.jpg.228551312f7172570ec4782a77eab202.jpg

The exhaust stacks help to hide most of it anyway. 

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1 minute ago, woodyfox said:

I've considered working scissors but the effort required would never meet the reward in my mind..... but we're all different. I only do one car and once coupled there's no gap:

IMG_20210806_162537.jpg.228551312f7172570ec4782a77eab202.jpg

The exhaust stacks help to hide most of it anyway. 

 

 

I think you posted this before. I was impressed with it then - so realistic. Top job!

 

Paul R

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Ok so a bit more progress on the gangways. I have created folded bellows nominally 4mm in width. At the top of the gangway where the sides bend towards the centre I have created a V shape so I can bend them to the gangway shape. The photo shows it better than I can describe.

 

Gangway-2.jpg.098a01c5e219bab246b522dc63196ef2.jpg

 

 

I'll cut/bend jet b bottoms to shape and fit a smaller bellows at the top most of which will be covered with paper as per the prototype.

 

The gangway inner plate which also acts as the door will be glued to the other end and then a piece of fine wire will be fitted through on each side to prevent the gangways sticking out too far but allowing them to move in and out.  This is working better than I thought.

 

Paul R

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Bit more progress with the bellows done and the end plate/door stick on. Just the top to do now and the wire restraints. Bit of cleaning up and filing to do and these should be OK.

 

Gangway-3.jpg.95a1c2ae2374ece121348ea5e192b09e.jpg

 

Paul R

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In between jobs today I made a start on the roof welds. Wasn't sure if these were worth it but thought I would try using self adhesive labels cut very fine. This was the result.

 

roof-1.jpg.18273dba2263d060a161315162049de0.jpg

 

Any thoughts?

 

They are very thin which is what's needed and they look rather thick in this close up. I can't really cut them any thinner but it did occur to me I could use these to portray the white lining on blue/grey coaches!. I've got transfers in now but its a thought.

 

Paul R

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Not much to post I am afraid. I am making slow progress with the door bump stops on the Mk1 BG and have now completed one side. I am also cracking on with the roof welds but no pictures as yet.

 

I have also ordered some ETH connections from PRMRP but these seem to be taking some time to arrive so I have left the underframe for now albeit I could fix the brake pull rods in position. I also need to finish off the gangways.

 

I am not that far from finishing this now - at least to clean up and primer stage. I am not sure about others but I always seem to underestiomate the amount of work that still needs doing to a model once the paint is on.

 

Paul R

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10 hours ago, pwr said:

I am not sure about others but I always seem to underestiomate the amount of work that still needs doing to a model once the paint is on.

On the basis I dont think I've ever actually finished anything, I'm inclined to agree!

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ETH-1.jpg.f3546a0a3c71545ea1f19981817682fa.jpgWell the ETH gear arrived this morning and now I have to figure out which bits go where as there are no instructions. Luckily I have plenty of photos!

 

 

 

Paul R

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3 hours ago, pwr said:

Well the ETH gear arrived this morning and now I have to figure out which bits go where as there are no instructions. Luckily I have plenty of photos!

 

ETH-1.jpg.bca9075204f06ac50c78df987218e8fa.jpg

 

Paul R

I thought it was a dead spider when the page opened.

 

Very very frightening. especially now I know what its supposed to be.

 

Glad I'm sticking to Ready to Plonk and Play.

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15 hours ago, Andrew P said:

 

Glad I'm sticking to Ready to Plonk and Play.

 

 

Sometimes I feel I should have done that Andy! Particularly given how much unfinished stuff I have on the shelves! After this I want to finish the Easy Build SK whcih I started about 5 years ago!!! I got held up waiting for lining transfers and by the time I had them I had moved on to something else!

 

However since retirement I have been a lot more productive!

 

Paul R

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Well in addition to making progress with the bump stops - I have 4 still to do - I have started to fit the ETH equipment.

 

This is the first bit (I've done both ends). Sorry about ther cruel enlargement. It will be alright once its all painted and weathered.

 

ETH-2.jpg.ed3d8d8643034a6fc014d8f95d89d86a.jpg

 

I'll crack on with these and the remaining bump stops and roof welds.  Not too mch more to do before priming and painting.

 

Paul R

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This is the socket that goes on the other side of the underframe. They actually work and the cover pivots round the pin youn can see in the end.

 

There is no clear or easy way to mount these and I havent yet found a photo showing how they are fixed.

 

ETH-3.jpg.fc07ae350bfbc7933eeb941538e0f71b.jpg

 

The pin at the bottom is not part of the casting and I have cut these off.

 

Paul R

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5 minutes ago, pwr said:

This is the socket that goes on the other side of the underframe. They actually work and the cover pivots round the pin youn can see in the end.

 

There is no clear or easy way to mount these and I havent yet found a photo showing how they are fixed.

 

ETH-3.jpg.478c0a3a79d1015c1b1529859b45e8bb.jpg

 

The pin at the bottom is not part of the casting and I have cut these off.

 

Paul R

IIRC the curved part nearest the camera is to the bottom and the flat area furthest away should sit under the buffer just to the left of the nearside buffer. I might be wrong, it's been about 30 odd years since I coupled a BG to a loco (a 33 on a newspaper train out of Waterloo if memory serves....)... 

Cheers 

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18 hours ago, woodyfox said:

IIRC the curved part nearest the camera is to the bottom and the flat area furthest away should sit under the buffer just to the left of the nearside buffer. I might be wrong, it's been about 30 odd years since I coupled a BG to a loco (a 33 on a newspaper train out of Waterloo if memory serves....)... 

Cheers 

 

Yes you are right  but having found some more photos I think that this is the wrong casting since there is no visible means of mounting it in the right place. I've got two other castings which appear more accurate to other drawings and photos that I have. I think this set is generic to locos and coaches and I also think its slightly overscale.

 

The bit that should sit on the coach end holding the plug doesn't appear entirely correct for coaches but would be right for loco's

 

Still its more accurate than I could have made so I think it will be OK

 

 

Paul R

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Went into the modelluing room tonight and the light coming through the window caught my eye and this was the result

 

Yard-2.jpg.e16704c51b8a7208c09bc44960c98646.jpg

 

 

I had to fiddle around with it in Photoshop but I am reltively pleased with the result

 

Paul R

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On 26/09/2021 at 18:01, pwr said:

Went into the modelluing room tonight and the light coming through the window caught my eye and this was the result

 

Yard-2.jpg.2ef6959f8ad9f61853b7fed7b1ef6bdd.jpg

 

I had to fiddle around with it in Photoshop but I am reltively pleased with the result

 

Paul R

What a superb pic, Paul, just love that sunlight in just the right places.:good:

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