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Hi all. I am away on holiday at present and decided to take an Easy Build MK1 SK to build. Lots of bits but no reference to door handles in the kit apart from fitting them after the build. They are not included and not listed in parts. Anyone know if this is typical of this manufacturers?

 

Paul R

Now that's what I call dedication - Nice one Paul, have a good holiday.

 

Cheers, Bob.

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Some photos

 

I worked out a way of using my iPad to do this but sorry about the poor quality

 

 

post-3038-0-62841400-1439484940_thumb.jpg

 

This shows the method of making the door bump stops which are from 1mm plastic rod glued in with Plastic Weld. As per the instructions I made a jig to help slice through the rod on the outside with a clean cut and right angles to the side. Sharp blade needed! This avoids the need for filing.

 

post-3038-0-62841400-1439484940_thumb.jpg

 

The second photo shows the handrail fitted. I debated as to whether to leave these off as they get in the way of the masking I will need to do to paint the separate blue and grey colours and the lining. However they are a flat etch in a round hole which I hope to fill once the glue has set. The handrails are pushed into 0.7mm holes and glued from behind with superglue. The capillary action finds its way to the front of the hole.

 

Door handles will be fitted once painted and lined.

 

Moving on........

 

Paul R

post-3038-0-05279500-1439484957_thumb.jpg

Edited by pwr
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Nice neat work there Paul - Looking good.

 

Cheers, Bob.

Stuck now till I get home. I tried to mark up the roof for drilling but without masking tape there is no way I am going to get a drill where it needs to go. Pays to follow the instructions sometimes!

 

Paul R

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Aargh! Drilling out pilot holes for the roof vents and broke the drill. The hole goes into the fixing rib underneath so I can't get it out from underneath. Any ideas? It's about 0.3mm. Hole needs to be 2mm

 

 

Paul R

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Hi Paul, is the drill broken where the securing nuts are going in the rib ? If not just slice that bit of rib out, even if it is only 2mm or so, if you don't want to slice out the rib, you can try drilling 4 x holes around the broken drill bit just to try and loosen it in the original hole, but this risks in breaking another drill bit, I would be tempted to use a more substantial drill bit for the pilots holes, eg 0.7mm or even 1mm for a 2mm hole.

 

Hope this helps

Craig

Edited by muddys-blues
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There is good news. There was enough of a hole on the underside of the roof to get the unbroken bit of the drill to push the bit out through the top enough to get pliers on it and pull it out.

 

No need to hack it about!

 

Now let the drilling for the remainder of the holes commence!

 

Craig -I will take your advice and use a larger drill for a pilot!

 

Paul R

Edited by pwr
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Ok more progress on the roof.

 

All holes drilled and the roof vents glued in. Used superglue as per the instructions although my normal method for these things would be epoxy resin. However in this case the sprue does not go through the ribs underneath and a more instant bond was necessary. I guess when painted they should be firm enough.

 

I am not exactly impressed with these castings. Some are badly formed and the sprue is of variable thickness needing filing to get into the 2mm holes. If I build another I will source some better vents.

 

Here is the photo of the finished article

 

post-3038-0-99080400-1440344802_thumb.jpg

 

Now this is where I start to feel troubled. The pattern and location of the vents is exactly as Sean at Easybuild states in the instructions. However the resulting pattern does not seem to match that shown in the Parkin book or supplement and these look more like what was found on the FK.

 

According to Parkin these should be in a triangular formation in the centre of the weld lines on the roof. These are more paired or elongated triangle. To be fair Sean does say that these measurements are sourced form photos and should be checked.  Anyone any thoughts. The plans in Parkin probably relate to an early build whereas mine is to be the later version with the raised window surrounds and finished in Blue and Grey although I had originally planned this would be in maroon. However I have acquired too many blue Heljan diesels and no stock to run with them I felt I needed to start somewhere. (and no I am not for selling any!)

 

Anyone out there built one of these and can advise on the best way of achieving the roof weld lines

 

No I have not forgotten the signal boxes in all this rush to get on with more rolling stock. The bell and block instrument shelves are completed primed and waiting to be painted.

 

All for now

 

Paul R

 

 

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Help needed

 

Does anyone have any experience of Easybuild coaches particularly the underframes.

 

I am struggling with the underframe trusses the brackets for which seem too wide and according to the instructions are 2.5mm too tall.

 

Any thoughts or photos?

 

Paul R

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  • 5 weeks later...

Time for a Mark 1 update. Underframe is coming along well

 

post-3038-0-31464800-1443365658_thumb.jpg

 

This shows the skeleton all completed with the dynamo and battery boxes fitted.

 

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The dynamo is not the one included in the kit. That supplied looked a bit small and the casting was faulty. Also the method of fixing was a bit fiddly. I could have sent it back and I know Shawn would have replaced it without quibbling but I had a Janick spare in the parts drawer so I used that as it was a single casting. I had to place some plasticard as a mount but its gone in no problem.

 

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These are the battery box castings. They are not the best in the world but good enough. I would have preferred to have made these up as an etching but this is where the realities of obtaining a value for money kit that is easy to put together verses strict accuracy such as the Modern Motive Power MK 1 kick in. I am not unhappy with my purchasing choice and it will make a good kit but some element of it will need changing/adapting/replacing to suit my own needs. Let me stress that there is nothing wrong with the kit.

 

As an example this is what I mean.

 

post-3038-0-14195900-1443365695_thumb.jpg

 

post-3038-0-05701700-1443365700_thumb.jpg

 

These two shots are of the regulator mounting and regulator casting. These have been simplified to make them easy to manufacture and keep costs down but reference to the Parkin book underframe section shows the mount as made out of angel iron and not flat bar. The regulator itself is not mounted directly on the frame but on a special mount that is bolted to the frame. This is one area I am not happy and will seek to add some flat strip on the inside of the frame to represent angle iron. The casting itself is simply a lump of metal but the real thing is not much more detailed to be honest.

 

post-3038-0-50354900-1443365682_thumb.jpg

 

This shot shows the aluminium bogie mounting. I chose to fix this with epoxy and I am happy with the result. The instructions suggest you can drill this and use a small nut and bolt to prevent it being knocked off. I think the glue will suffice so I have not decided to follow that suggestion.

 

post-3038-0-24768500-1443365690_thumb.jpg

 

Finally another shot of the unit.

 

I have to say I like the build sequence on these coaches with each major component being made up and detailed before the whole lot goes together. Would I buy another - most certainly. I am going to see if the wife will get me a BSK or an FK for Christmas.

 

And then there is this 101..........

 

All for now 

 

Paul R

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  • 2 months later...

Hi everyone - a brief update. Work on the underarm is all but complete - well most of the bits in the kit have been assembled.

 

post-3038-0-15347800-1451562262_thumb.jpg

 

I did mange to get the farm round the regulator cage and fitted this with superglue rather than solder. It seems to have held OK

 

post-3038-0-85381200-1451562279_thumb.jpg

 

The brake gear

 

post-3038-0-83971600-1451562280_thumb.jpg

 

I can now progress on with the ends and bogies. I may well come back to this as there are more detail bits that can bearded and doubtless would have been found in a more expensive kit such as JLTRT or MMP but would otherwise put these coaches in a more expensive bracket.  I am happy with what I have and will add additional detail as the build progresses.

 

Father Christmas did not bring any more coaches this year but left a Tamron 90mm Macro lends under the tree which is a better alternative!

 

I also got a couple of milk tanks so now have 4 in the rake that I can model the North Elmham milk train on. I have a suitable brake vehicle and the Claude to pull it in the absence yet of a J15.

 

post-3038-0-57937700-1451562293_thumb.jpg

 

On top of that two SIKU heavy lifting cranes were under the tree which are 1:55 scale and slightly too small for the layout (and out of period!). I do however have a fascination with heavy lifting equipment (and no I am not compensating for anything).  These are placed on and next to the layout for size purposes!

 

post-3038-0-96573800-1451562303_thumb.jpg

 

post-3038-0-72257400-1451562305_thumb.jpg

 

Onwards and upwards!

 

More soon

 

Paul R

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I thought a short update with a view of the completed ends

 

post-3038-0-99536100-1451843002_thumb.jpg

 

These are as far as I need to get before the body construction gets underway. As per the instructions the gangway ends are not fixed yet and the lighting connectors are removable so that I can paint the ends properly. They are made of fuse wire with the end connectors from the kit. The end with the emergency communication cord equipment will also need toilet water filler pipes made and added but I can't fabricate these until the body is made and the roof dry fitted.

 

Buffers and vac pipes/steam heat pipes will also follow once built.

 

According to the instructions the ends can now be fitted to the chassis so watch for some more updates soon

 

Paul R

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  • 2 weeks later...

now that the basic components of the body are done I have made a start on the bogies. I opted for the Commonwealth variety for this coach as it will be finished in blue/grey livery to represent a later vehicle. These bogies have to be specified at the time of purchase. Disappointingly they are the worst aspect to this range.

 

There were no instructions in the box but I found a series of notes and photos on the Easybuild web site which were very helpful. However there is no provision in the castings to mount any brake gear albeit there are some rather lean brake shoes on one f the sprues which look as if they were meant for the MK1 bogies since you have to trim the middle strecher moulding to suit. There are no end stretcher bars and from the way the side frames are moulded I would say there were never meant to be.

 

I think next time I will get a set of Wayoh bogies. I have a pair of these under an old Lima MK1 but these are destined for an RMB kit I have in stock.

 

I will post some photos soon

 

Paul R

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now that the basic components of the body are done I have made a start on the bogies. I opted for the Commonwealth variety for this coach as it will be finished in blue/grey livery to represent a later vehicle. These bogies have to be specified at the time of purchase. Disappointingly they are the worst aspect to this range.

 

There were no instructions in the box but I found a series of notes and photos on the Easybuild web site which were very helpful. However there is no provision in the castings to mount any brake gear albeit there are some rather lean brake shoes on one f the sprues which look as if they were meant for the MK1 bogies since you have to trim the middle strecher moulding to suit. There are no end stretcher bars and from the way the side frames are moulded I would say there were never meant to be.

 

I think next time I will get a set of Wayoh bogies. I have a pair of these under an old Lima MK1 but these are destined for an RMB kit I have in stock.

 

I will post some photos soon

 

Paul R

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Got home and had a look at the Lima coach and found the bogies are Cavelier Coach castings and not Wayoh!

 

On top of that there are no brakes! I think my standards have gone up! It does however have end stretchers.

 

I have some work to do I think

 

Paul R

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Right an update on the bogies.

 

The part assembled bogies have been placed on the track and are level and true and run very well although the clearance between the frame and the wheel is not enough in my opinion. The wheels are true so they are not rubbing which isn a blessing. I think the side frames are too thick to scale but I stand to be corrected.

 

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The torsion bars (is that what they are) are too long and I have had to shorten them and these are possibly the weakest component as they will break when any strain is put on them.

 

The axle boxes have yet to be added - that is when I can find one of them that went walkabout on the modelling room floor!

 

These pictures show the Cavalier bogie under the Lima coach. You can easily see the end stretchers and these will be fabricated out of plasticard for the Easy Build versions.

 

post-3038-0-79235500-1453055792_thumb.jpg

 

post-3038-0-44473700-1453055801_thumb.jpg

 

The castings are all together thinner but probably of lesser quality than some to today's offerings. 

 

Any more of these that will be finished in maroon or carmine and cream will probably ride on MK1 bogies. Others that are destined for blue and grey will have alternative bogies sourced.

 

The Lima body is destined for the scrap heap once the bogies have ben recovered unless anybody wants them. I have three others all maroon that are on original bogies and one that rides on B4's recovered from a Big Big train and which will be removed for further use!

 

All for now

 

Paul R

Edited by pwr
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Another update. I have found a solution to note end stretchers on the bogies. This picture will show what I mean.

 

post-3038-0-27861500-1453646745_thumb.jpg

 

I will use the original brake shoes in the kit and hang these with a suitable mount on the end.

 

I have also glued the body to the ends and floor. see below.

 

post-3038-0-11414700-1453646757_thumb.jpg

 

I am confident I have got the pieces glued in the right place but when I check the fit of the roof, something is drastically wrong.

 

The roof does not fit the shape of the ends and doesn't looks as it ever will

 

post-3038-0-29866400-1453646766_thumb.jpg

 

You can see from the next shot that the fit is about right. There is a small amount of filling needed but I am stumped. This instructions give no clue so I am going to have to send the photos to Shaun at EasyBuild and get some advice. Has anyone else come across this?

 

post-3038-0-11994600-1453646784_thumb.jpg

 

Paul R

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Craig

 

I checked the roof and I had indeed removed the required amount of plastic. I have taken more off in line with his photos but I still have a 1mm gap when the roof is sitting on the sides where it should,

 

Another e-mail has gone off to Shawn

 

Paul R

Edited by pwr
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Here are the photos shawn sent. You can clearly see the plastic he has removed which mine now also looks like.

 

post-3038-0-57212200-1453659779_thumb.jpg

 

post-3038-0-81649400-1453659793_thumb.jpg

 

I may have to fit with the bolts to see if I can get an improvement

 

Paul R

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