Black Notley - BR Eastern

[CUTLER2579]

Jonte,

on the Tower Models website under "O"Gauge ,then Peco,then Track there is a plan of the Peco Curved Point and it shows that you will need opposite handed points for the arrangement you have enquired about.

Regards Derek.

[Guest jonte]

Brilliant !!!

 

I'll check it out right now.

 

Thanks, Derek.

[Guest jonte]

Paul/Derek

 

Update: Peco emailed me earlier today to say that they've very kindly forwarded me some track templates to assist with my dilemma.

 

Fingers crossed that this solves my problems. Thanks again for the advice.

 

Jonte.

[CUTLER2579]

Paul,

although I have read through your posts several times I can find no mention of what paint you used to colour the Track initally.

I have no sight in my left eye so if I have missed it I apologise.

The trackwork looks superb and I hope to come close to your standard on my ficticous East Coast seaside terminusstaion that I have just started building in"O" Gauge after 50 years modelling in "oo"gauge.

Kind Regards,Derek.

[pwr]

Paul,

although I have read through your posts several times I can find no mention of what paint you used to colour the Track initally.

I have no sight in my left eye so if I have missed it I apologise.

The trackwork looks superb and I hope to come close to your standard on my ficticous East Coast seaside terminusstaion that I have just started building in"O" Gauge after 50 years modelling in "oo"gauge.

Kind Regards,Derek.

 

 

Derek

 

I use a 2 part process. First I spray the rails side on with Railmatch dark rust. Then when that is dry I use Railmatch Sleeper grime to spray the sleepers. However you have to be careful and do this directly above the track from about 6 to 7 inches and move along on a perpendicular basis. Don't spray side on or at an angle. In this way you will avoid covering the rail sides with the grime and they will remain rust. There will be some overspray but as long as this is relatively minimal it adds to the overall effect. Use a spare yard of track pinned to a plank to test it.

 

I don't clean the paint from the tops of the rails until the ballast is completed.

 

Hope this helps

 

Paul R

[paulr1949]

Derek

 

I use a 2 part process. First I spray the rails side on with Railmatch dark rust. Then when that is dry I use Railmatch Sleeper grime to spray the sleepers. However you have to be careful and do this directly above the track from about 6 to 7 inches and move along on a perpendicular basis. Don't spray side on or at an angle. In this way you will avoid covering the rail sides with the grime and they will remain rust. There will be some overspray but as long as this is relatively minimal it adds to the overall effect. Use a spare yard of track pinned to a plank to test it.

 

I don't clean the paint from the tops of the rails until the ballast is completed.

 

Hope this helps

 

Paul R

 

Paul

 

Do you just use white spirit to get the paint off the tops of the rails later. or something else? I have found it very difficult to remove unless I do it immediately!

 

Another Paul R!

[CUTLER2579]

Hello Paul,

thanks for a brilliant answer.I will follow this topic avidly.

Regards Derek.

[pwr]

Paul

 

Do you just use white spirit to get the paint off the tops of the rails later. or something else? I have found it very difficult to remove unless I do it immediately!

 

Another Paul R!

 

 

Paul

 

No beleive it or not I use a Stanley knife and scrape the paint off. Then I use a track rubber to get the rails shiny!

 

regards

 

 

Paul

[L49]

I have just finished ballasting the second board.

 

 

 

The photo shows my Connoissuer F5 67217.

 

More progress as we go

 

 

Paul R

 

 

Just dropped in on this thread out of curiosity, and now having seen the Connoisseur F5, I want to go 'O'. There should be a fiscal health warning attached to these pictures. She is GORGEOUS!

[boeing757]

Good Morning Paul,

Just stumbled onto this thread and have really enjoyed reading it. I am resident in Cyprus and have just returned to railway modelling having hung up my flying boots finally. I am an Essex boy and grew up at the sugar beet factory at Felsted in the 50's and early 60's. I am in the (early) process of building this station in 7mm so your efforts are really inspirational. The date for mine will be c1955, a little late for passenger workings but I can't resist an F5 with a couple of ex-GE coaches. The other must have is a J17 which were real stalwarts on the freight. I am using P Paye's little book for reference although I have noticed some small omissions, for instance after steam had been displaced I personally saw B1 61156 come through Felsted with a road/railer trial train, my last sight of steam on the branch.

Keep on updating this thread, you must have many interested readers out there.

Bob

[Pint of Adnams]

The other must have is a J17 which were real stalwarts on the freight.

In which case do not be tempted by the SM Models kit, until it is revamped (as promised) to correct the major errors in the wheelbase etc. The DMR kit is more accurate.

[boeing757]

'Pint of 'Thanks for the info, I was unaware SM did one. Out of interest is there a model of the J19 with round topped firebox out there anywhere?

Bob

[Pint of Adnams]

'Pint of 'Thanks for the info, I was unaware SM did one. Out of interest is there a model of the J19 with round topped firebox out there anywhere?

Bob

Not strictly. J15 and J20 from Connoisseur, J17 from DMR (and SM).

 

Contact me by PM please...

[pwr]

Good Morning Paul,

Just stumbled onto this thread and have really enjoyed reading it. I am resident in Cyprus and have just returned to railway modelling having hung up my flying boots finally. I am an Essex boy and grew up at the sugar beet factory at Felsted in the 50's and early 60's. I am in the (early) process of building this station in 7mm so your efforts are really inspirational. The date for mine will be c1955, a little late for passenger workings but I can't resist an F5 with a couple of ex-GE coaches. The other must have is a J17 which were real stalwarts on the freight. I am using P Paye's little book for reference although I have noticed some small omissions, for instance after steam had been displaced I personally saw B1 61156 come through Felsted with a road/railer trial train, my last sight of steam on the branch.

Keep on updating this thread, you must have many interested readers out there.

Bob

 

Bob

 

Thanks for your comments - there was an article about the Road-Railer in the 2009 British Railway Modelling Annual or was it 2008. Nonetheless there is a picture of the B1 on this train at Braintree. There was also an article in an earlier version of Model Railway Journal. Both had plans but I am afraid that if you want one then its scratchbuilding I'm afraid.

 

 

Because the background to my layout is partially fictional, I am distorting history a little by postponing the closure of the Dunmow section by a few years. Black Notley in effect takes the place of Cressing since that station had only one siding! That way I can use earlier timetables to make opeartion more interesting. What I would really like to get more information on is the type of traffic that came out and into Critalls and the Lake and Elliott works at Braintree.

 

regards

 

 

Paul

[pwr]

Just dropped in on this thread out of curiosity, and now having seen the Connoisseur F5, I want to go 'O'. There should be a fiscal health warning attached to these pictures. She is GORGEOUS!

 

L49

 

This is a good kit that goes together very well. I have another stashed away that I plan to convert to an F6. All of Connoisseur's kits build extremely well in 7mm. Jim is a great kit designer

 

regards

 

Paul R

[CUTLER2579]

Paul (PWR) says:-

Bob

 

Thanks for your comments - there was an article about the Road-Railer in the 2009 British Railway Modelling Annual or was it 2008. Nonetheless there is a picture of the B1 on this train at Braintree. There was also an article in an earlier version of Model Railway Journal. Both had plans but I am afraid that if you want one then its scratchbuilding I'm afraid.

 

I take it you mean the Road - Railer as Finescale now do the B1 and if its as good as their V2 it will be very good value for money. As normal my only connection with them is as a very happy customer.

Regards,Derek.

[boeing757]

Paul (PWR) says:-

Bob

 

Thanks for your comments - there was an article about the Road-Railer in the 2009 British Railway Modelling Annual or was it 2008. Nonetheless there is a picture of the B1 on this train at Braintree. There was also an article in an earlier version of Model Railway Journal. Both had plans but I am afraid that if you want one then its scratchbuilding I'm afraid.

 

I take it you mean the Road - Railer as Finescale now do the B1 and if its as good as their V2 it will be very good value for money. As normal my only connection with them is as a very happy customer.

Regards,Derek.

 

I was unaware there was a picture of 61156 on tha working, must find it. How I wish I had a camera that day.

Regarding th Finescale model I'm sure it's excellent, just beyond my budget.

Bob

[trisonic]

All this talk of rural Essex has both made me homesick (I haven't been back since 2001) and timesick for the '60's - a lot of my pals went to Felsted School back then.

 

Did I miss something? How long is this layout in 7mm?

 

 

Best, Pete.

[pwr]

All this talk of rural Essex has both made me homesick (I haven't been back since 2001) and timesick for the '60's - a lot of my pals went to Felsted School back then.

 

Did I miss something? How long is this layout in 7mm?

 

 

Best, Pete.

 

 

Pete

 

Its only about 23 feet.

 

Paul R

[trisonic]

Paul,

That's big enough for me. I'm one of those weirdos that prefers small layouts (incrementally, dependent on scale).

You can actually finish them (without a support group) and detail them with nice cameos/dioramas. Besides I don't like tail-chasers either.......

Good stuff!

 

Best, Pete.

 

 

[modllr]

This is looking excellent! I'll be keeping a keen eye on this...

 

Keep up the good work.

[signalmaintainer]

Oh, yet another siren's call beckoning me to O scale! I've book marked this topic!

[pwr]

I just started ballasting the third board - give me a week and there should be some pictures. I have to give some thought as to how I am going to do the platform faces now as I will need to ballast up to them. I have used brick paper before which is not too bad but I reckon foamboard covered by DAZ clay and scribed should be a better bet - however it will take much longer soi I may go for the brick paper for now

 

Paul R

[Guest jonte]

Hello again Paul

 

Glad to hear that work has resumed and look forward to seeing updates of your latest endeavours.

 

In relation to your dilemma as to whether to construct the platform faces of scribed Das clay covered foamboard, perhaps my (recent) experience with this method might help.

 

Being a great admirer of Gordon (and Maggies) Gravett's work (got Modelling 7mm scale parts 1 & 2) I too opted for this method and work began apace on a couple of my chosen station buildings. However, after applying the clay (useing a thin smearing of PVA glue to aid adhesion as instructed) and leaving it to dry, I couldn't get the corners square despite vigorous rubbing with the use of a flat surface below the sandpaper. I also found it difficult to keep the scribed mortar course straight. Thankfully, I used a test piece for the purpose so no harm befell the actual model(s)

 

The results - in my opinion anyway - probably would have been okay for say farm or period buildings but in the case Victorian railway architecture, well, I think the appearance is just a little too 'rustic'.

 

Perhaps I should have persevered, but I really don't think I could have improved on the first attempt.

 

Ultimately, I clothed said buildings in SE Finecsat English and Flemish bond embossed brickwork and together with mitred corners, a degree of squareness was eventually achieved. Hope this helps; Best regards, Jonte

[pwr]

Hello again Paul

 

Glad to hear that work has resumed and look forward to seeing updates of your latest endeavours.

 

In relation to your dilemma as to whether to construct the platform faces of scribed Das clay covered foamboard, perhaps my (recent) experience with this method might help.

 

Being a great admirer of Gordon (and Maggies) Gravett's work (got Modelling 7mm scale parts 1 & 2) I too opted for this method and work began apace on a couple of my chosen station buildings. However, after applying the clay (useing a thin smearing of PVA glue to aid adhesion as instructed) and leaving it to dry, I couldn't get the corners square despite vigorous rubbing with the use of a flat surface below the sandpaper. I also found it difficult to keep the scribed mortar course straight. Thankfully, I used a test piece for the purpose so no harm befell the actual model(s)

 

The results - in my opinion anyway - probably would have been okay for say farm or period buildings but in the case Victorian railway architecture, well, I think the appearance is just a little too 'rustic'.

 

Perhaps I should have persevered, but I really don't think I could have improved on the first attempt.

 

Ultimately, I clothed said buildings in SE Finecsat English and Flemish bond embossed brickwork and together with mitred corners, a degree of squareness was eventually achieved. Hope this helps; Best regards, Jonte

 

 

Hi Jonte

 

Have you seen Gordon Gravett's book on 7mm modelling which has more info. If you have apologies. I am certainly going to give it a go but unlike Gordon, I am going to make my building shells out of foambard not ply which you can get in almost unlimited free quantities from Tesco who seem to make their advertising boards from it and ditch them when the promotion is over.

 

As for the platforms, for the sake of expediency I am going to use brick paper or may be some slaters embossed brick plasticard. The problem with that is the courses are all too even. I think you have to strike a balance betwen expediency and realism. I could use a plan piece of foamboard and stick that down so I can ballast up to it. Then I could remove it later whilst I decide what to do or experiment and replace it later. That way the ballast will be laid and I will have an edge to butt the final platforms up to. My speed of progress I am afraid remains all to slow but thank you to you and the other contributers for the encouragement,

 

Paul R