Black Notley - BR Eastern

[pwr]

1 hour ago, Giles said:

That 10ft actually started life as an artic, as it's what I had to hand - so I didn't need to convert it to RHD. I looked for a convenient place to cut the chassis off which would still allow length for internal splicing plates (shown on lower photo) which happened to be somewhere behind the fuel tank on this model. The length of the new chassis rails were simply adjusted to give the 10ft wheelbase when fitted to the cut remains.

Yes, the overhang on the standard 10ft is quite short. Like most manufacturers, they built their standard chassis lengths for their catalogue, but they would also build you whatever you needed to order.

 

In this photo you can probably just make out the splice. Devcon epoxy made a good job if it!

1:43 Tipper by giles favell, on Flickr

 

 

That's helpful thank you

 

Paul

[pwr]

Decided I need to get back into soldering up some kits and despite having boxes of them stashed away for some reason I felt I needed to have a Freightliner set so I ordered 3 kits from PRMRP. I am still awaiting a set of etches but this is in hand.

 

 

 

 

I've only gone for a set of three rather than 5 as I can't get more than 3 plus a loco in the fiddle yard. I might stretch to another two later.

 

This is very much a 1970's build and containers will need to be chosen carefully. So far I have not been able to identify any kits so if fellow modellers can recommend any please say so!

 

It looks like a relatively straightforward build and wheels have been ordered!

 

More as this develops

 

Paul R

 

 

[37114]

Those flats look a fun project, plenty of soldering there!

 

Re the containers, I am not aware of any, maybe print one of these bigger?

https://scalescenes.com/product/t031-shipping-containers/

[pwr]

17 hours ago, 37114 said:

Those flats look a fun project, plenty of soldering there!

 

Re the containers, I am not aware of any, maybe print one of these bigger?

https://scalescenes.com/product/t031-shipping-containers/

 

 

Good call 3711.  There are some here that fit the bill. 

 

I'll get these and when I get my new printer I will upsize them

 

Paul R

[pwr]

18 hours ago, 37114 said:

Those flats look a fun project, plenty of soldering there!

 

Re the containers, I am not aware of any, maybe print one of these bigger?

https://scalescenes.com/product/t031-shipping-containers/

 

Some here too

 

https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/index.asp?function=search

 

Paul R

[pwr]

Well I have nearly finished the ABS wagon and have decided to load this with sacks. These are removable and sit on a plasticard base that will come out.

 

 

 

 

I need to paint the vacuum pipes.

 

The buffers on these ABS kits are not sprung and are in effect drawing pins but these are surprisingly effective. I need to get the black marker pen behind the buffer head but apart from that and the pipes its done. It has a satisfying amount of weight given its largely white metal.

 

The sacks are from Brittains and are strictly speaking 1:32 but they seem alright and are about the same size as those that form the load on the IXO For Thames.

 

Next down the production line I hope is the FFA/FGA Freightliner set where I have been gathering photos from the internet. From what I can see the buffers on this are Oleo which is not what is in the kit. However I have a set of sprung Oleo's in stock which will substitute. I have the wheels also now arrived from Slaters so all I need to get on is the third set of etches which should be coming any time soon. PRMRP only had 2 kits in stock and a third set of castings. I also have a set of Dapol screw link couplings and I will substitute the air pipes with some ABS castings which are much better quality and which I also have in stock.

 

Still not decided what to do about the containers but Scale Model Scenery do a 4mm laster cut container which they are intending to scale up. That said they are basically boxes so I might scratch build some. The use of printed overlays when there should some texture and relief on a 7mm box doesn't seem right to me. As mine are to represent late 1960's into the 1970's they are a basic 8ft box. I am sure I can get transfers. Railtec have supplied a set of FFA/FGA transfers with enough to do a 15 wagon set so I have enough if I want to get another two flats and make the full five car set.

 

Incidentally the inner wagon bar couplings are represented by a white metal casting which you screw in at each end. Thats all very well but when you want to pack it away it becomes a faff. Some of these rare earth magnetic couplings might be worth a go. Not entirely prototypical but when loaded with boxes you won't see them that easily.

 

Anyhow all for now

 

Paul R

[pwr]

The final etch for the Freightliner wagons turned up today so I am going to make a start the week after next when I have some leave booked. The wife is working so I can please myself. 

 

I have ordered two sets of MagClic couplers for the inter wagon connections as I don't want them semi permanently coupled together. Anyone have any experience of these?

 

Paul R

[pwr]

So I have now addressed the missing bearing given Dapol's inability to supply a replacement. It's a bit extreme but in essence I have replaced the wheels and bearings with a Peco set. The reaming bearings were difficult to get out from the compensation beam but I managed it and superglued the Peco bearings in the existing holes and fitted the wheels. Now it is fine! I know I should have sent it back but I could not recall which retailer it came from. So I have a spare set of pin point bearing wheels which I have to say look better than the Peco ones but needs must. I think I need to blacken the tyres which I will do with a permanent marker. So the train is now 8 vehicles long with two kits in stock to extend to 10.

 

 

Next week I shall start on the Freightliner flats as I now have all the extra bits I need to finish it. The MagClic couplings came yesterday and these will be fitted side on.

 

Buzz models have an early 20ft container in their range although its a bit pricey and a 30ft one is almost ready. I may have e to check them out but it can't be that difficult to build from styrene. 

 

Anyhow I will post updates as we go

 

Paul R

[Dad-1]

Having a stock of kits is fine until you have problems. Sometimes one has had them in stock years !!

I'm currently working my way through some old kits in '00' one from before Ratio left Borehamwood

(1960's).

Interestingly I've had few problems with the 100 or so '00' kits I've made, although when many came

without metal wheels sets, or decals. Being new to 'O' I've had only 2 kits, both having faults/missing,

I'm assuming this is just bad luck - BUT life has taught me to never assume anything !!

 

Geoff T.

[pwr]

On 17/10/2020 at 09:15, Dad-1 said:

Having a stock of kits is fine until you have problems. Sometimes one has had them in stock years !!

I'm currently working my way through some old kits in '00' one from before Ratio left Borehamwood

(1960's).

Interestingly I've had few problems with the 100 or so '00' kits I've made, although when many came

without metal wheels sets, or decals. Being new to 'O' I've had only 2 kits, both having faults/missing,

I'm assuming this is just bad luck - BUT life has taught me to never assume anything !!

 

Geoff T.

 

Yes very frustrating if you then get one out and it has a bit missing or there is a problem with an etch. If the range has been sold its doubtful the new owner has any responsibility. Always good practice to check the contents of the box when you get it rather than wait 20 years! And yes I have kits that go back that far and beyond! I will have plenty to do in retirement but the really frustrating things is when you have a kit and then an RTR version is produced. I have kits for  a 31, 33 and 47, all of which I also have as RTR. I still intend to b build them as I will finish them as a different variant. The 33 will be a 33/1, the 47 and 47/4 ad so on.

 

Paul R

[pwr]

So a week's leave sees a start made on the FFA/FGA set. This one will become an inner.

 

 

All I can say is that its a good job I have a 10" Hold and Fold. 

 

I'll see how far I get today with this one and then start the other two tomorrow.  I may have to invest in two more as I really want the full 5 wagon rake. Might have to speak to the wife for Christmas!

 

More as we progress

 

Paul. R

[pwr]

Well after. a lot of folding soldering and burnt fingers here is where we landed up.

 

 

 

Starting to look the part now.

 

Need to clean it up and file the joints down but I am chuffed with this. It's been so long since I soldered a kit together I had forgotten how satisfying it was.

 

So tomorrow looks like detail fitting and more soldering. Will see if I can get the first 2 bogies built.

 

Paul R

[woodyfox]

Nothing more satisfying than building something up from a flat etch. 

Looking good, very neat job. 

[muddys-blues]

Here we go ..... bragging about inches now !!! your 10" looks mighty impressive, makes me feel like  my 8" one look inadequate !!!

 

 

Edited October 19, 2020 by muddys-blues

[pwr]

13 hours ago, muddys-blues said:

Here we go ..... bragging about inches now !!! your 10" looks mighty impressive, makes me feel like  my 8" one look inadequate !!!

 

 

 

Interestingly enough they were all designed differently - the arrangement of some of the  bits on the 8" are not the same as on the 10" which does make a difference.

 

Oh and 10" isn't enough for the largest jobs!

 

I also have a 2" version - different make which comes in hand for small parts.

 

Do you find that investment in tools pays off in the log run. I have several expensive bits of kit like rolling bars that I hardly ever use but am sure glad I have them when. do. I would like a rivet machine - one with a lever not the use of a hammer! 

 

Paul R

[pwr]

Today I have started on the detail to the trusses. I am soldering these with a resistance soldering iron as I don't fancy getting the big soldering iron in there and doing a decent job.

 

 

The croc clip is the negative probe for the RSU.

 

As you can see there is a gap between the main truss and the detail which I will have to fill.

 

The fold down flaps with the curved edge will be for the main reservoir which is a white metal casting.

 

Paul R

[pwr]

Well I have not achieved as much as I had set out to today but I have fixed the angled plates to the  trusses. The instructions then want you to place horizontal strips at each truss  between the main longtitudinal beams but of course they don't fit - too wide. So instead I used the trips to fill in the gaps at the bracket ends. Easier to see on the photo.

 

 

The completed insert is shown as 1 and the before with the gap at 2. Sorry about the poor drawing.

 

So now I have to find some strip to bridge the main beams. I should have something is stock but if I don't I can't just go down the the local model shop as it closed a couple of years ago.

 

My nearest decent model shop is in fact Gaugemaster even though that is about 30 miles way.

 

Tomorrow I should plug the rest of these gaps and see what's in the scrap metal box.

 

This is very much a test build as I have two more to do straight after.

 

All for now

 

Paul R

 

[pwr]

Not much progress to report today as I had to clear part of my modelling room as we are having shutters installed tomorrow.

 

I have however finished off the diagonal trusses and built up bits of strip to the horizontal part is flush with the main beams. As expected I don't have enough strip to make the joins between the two main trusses so I had to get an order in with Eileens Emporiam.

 

I have however made up the bogies - photos tomorrow when the glue dries. These are pretty good castings although I had to drill out the holes for the bearings. They are currently setting on a sheet of glass. 

 

Only just realised after I opened the packet that of the 6 sets of wheels I ordered that one of them was supplied incorrectly and they sent a standard wagon wheel set instead. As I have opened it I am going to have to order another set. Still I can use these on another wagon.

 

All for now

 

Paul R

 

 

 

[pwr]

So here are the bogies

 

 

 

Unfortunately one of the stretchers did not seat correctly across the side frames so I have had to break it apart and will nee to reglue it.

 

They are very free running once I adjusted the bearings.

 

I am not going to get much done today as they are installing the shutters so if I fix the bogie I will be happy.

 

Paul R

[Hal Nail]

Have you come across Buzz Models? looks like they do some containers.

[pwr]

Hi Hal

 

Yes I have been in touch. They do a 20ft and 30ft early example. I am looking to get one of the 20ft versions but they are expensive. They are resin cast so a full set (5 wagon rake) my be a bit on the heavy side. Also if they are early versions they may not have the ISO pockets which are the ones I want to portray. I may have to scratch build - can't be that difficult in styrene - after all they are only boxes!

 

Paul R

[pwr]

Some more progress tonight.

 

I have now soldered the new cross pieces between the main girder frames as shown here

 

 

One of them looks as if it moved during soldering so I may need to adjust that.

 

I have also folded up the bogie mounts as shown here.

 

 

The hole is too big for the bolts provided. I have decided to deviate from the instructions somewhat here and fix the bolt to the wagon rather than the nut. This will allow me to apply a lock nut under the bogie which I won't be able to do if I solder the nut inside as there is no access to the inside once soldered to the deck.

 

I am going to find some bigger nuts and bolts which are a closer fit to the etched hole. My early attempts here ended in spectacular failure and I managed to solder the nut to the bolt. My own fault as I should have used oil and a paper washer to prevent this but the hole is the wrong size.

 

I now need to clean up the excess solder - I think I will use the Dremel for this. Then its on to the detail and the castings.

 

All for now 

 

Paul R

[Hal Nail]

On 19/10/2020 at 11:54, pwr said:

All I can say is that its a good job I have a 10" Hold and Fold. 

I missed this originally. Would you recommend these? I'd read that bending bars are pretty essential and since I don't have anywhere to put a vice, have avoided things like bogie bolsters or coach sole bars with long bends for now.

[pwr]

Hal

 

I most certainly would. Mine are actually 14" not 10" and I could do within them being about 20" as I couldn't fold the entire length of the deck. I don't think you can get them that long having said that and they would be very expensive if you could.

 

The problem with trying to bend metal with other devices is that the metal distorts whereas the hold and fold ensures you can keep them well fixed whilst you bend. For long folds its easiest to use the long edge at the back rather than the shorter bits on the inner side. You need a metal ruler to bend and where you have a particularly large fold I use a hammer on the ruler to ensure a straight fold without denting the metal..

 

As I mentioned in an earlier post I also have a small 2" version and I wold also like a 8" or a 10".

 

Be careful where you get them from as prices vary significantly. I have seen an 8" version for £40 and another priced at £80 for what is the same device. Amazon do a range and they are not always branded hold and fold so when you search use generic terms like folding bars or sheet metal folders. Happy to post a link if you can't find them.

 

If funds allow get two sizes as the fold edges are different. I think I am going to see if someone will buy me a n 8" version for Christmas.

 

These are like many tools that you only use occasionally. Worth their weight in gold when you use them and possibly regarded as an expensive luxury when you don't!

 

Paul R

[woodyfox]

10 minutes ago, pwr said:

Hal

 

I most certainly would. Mine are actually 14" not 10" and I could do within them being about 20" as I couldn't fold the entire length of the deck. I don't think you can get them that long having said that and they would be very expensive if you could.

 

The problem with trying to bend metal with other devices is that the metal distorts whereas the hold and fold ensures you can keep them well fixed whilst you bend. For long folds its easiest to use the long edge at the back rather than the shorter bits on the inner side. You need a metal ruler to bend and where you have a particularly large fold I use a hammer on the ruler to ensure a straight fold without denting the metal..

 

As I mentioned in an earlier post I also have a small 2" version and I wold also like a 8" or a 10".

 

Be careful where you get them from as prices vary significantly. I have seen an 8" version for £40 and another priced at £80 for what is the same device. Amazon do a range and they are not always branded hold and fold so when you search use generic terms like folding bars or sheet metal folders. Happy to post a link if you can't find them.

 

If funds allow get two sizes as the fold edges are different. I think I am going to see if someone will buy me a n 8" version for Christmas.

 

These are like many tools that you only use occasionally. Worth their weight in gold when you use them and possibly regarded as an expensive luxury when you don't!

 

Paul R

My Hold n Fold is the 18" one and is really good for bogie vehicles. 

On the captive nut soldering, i would use permanent marker pen applied generously to the bolt thread or get a length of dowel the same diameter and 'tap' it using the nut. This then becomes a temporary bolt. I've done it using a bbq wood skewer. It doesn't have to be exact engineering but just a use once and dispose job.