jsp3970 Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Got the DB 110 frame today, its too short and being metal would be hard to lengthen. Can anyone make any suggestions? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 At least you proved the Roco parts service works...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp3970 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 I did indeed, but that still doesn't help me with getting a frame for my 83. Does anybody have any suggestions? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp3970 Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Have built the tanks for the roof, out of styrene, modelling putty, and wire. Here are a couple of photos. Based it on the tanks on the Bachmann 85. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp3970 Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Well still haven't find a suitable frame for the 83. Recently got a Lima class 33 frame and tried it but it was just too short. However as this frame is for another project it is no loss. I take it by the silence to my earlier questions that no one has any suggestions for a suitable frame. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 I based mine on a chopped-up lima 87 chassis. Probably not the height of accuracy or technological sophistication but worth a look if you do not have any better ideas. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
forest2807 Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 I'm not familiar with the Roco bogies or how they fix to the chassis so I don't know what commercially available products, if any, would be suitable. Looks like scratch building might be your best option. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp3970 Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Well seems I have found a suitable frame, length wise that is. The Hornby class 29 seems to be the right length but would need some shaping at the ends to make it fit. Fortunately I have a spare one laying around so I may have found a use for it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp3970 Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 After several months of trying to get my class 29 underframe from storage back in Ontario I finally got it. The length is perfect although it just needs to be profiled to fit into the body. Now I just need to check the class 29 bogie frame against the class 83 bogie frames to see if they will be a good replacement. If so then I will order some and use them for the model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf27 Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 (edited) Bogie wheel base for the 29 is 5mm shorter than the 83. However the wheelbase can be altered without to much difficulty.CheersShane Edited December 1, 2014 by Wolf27 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp3970 Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Well I have a X942 motor I could use and don't really feel like taking it apart and modiflying it for 5mm! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp3970 Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Oh 'bleep bleep'! Reshaped the frame so that it fits into the body, great! Take the dummy bogie off my 29 and test fit it, great! Take the motor bogie off and test fit it, doesnt fit, GREAT! Seems that the 83 body from Applegreen is a bit lower so the top of the motor contacts the body. Am going to look at modifying the 29 chassis so that Hornby class 86 bogies can fit into it, then I can remove the bogie sides and fit the class 83 sides. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 Just bought what i assume is an Apple Green body and bogie side frames from ebay, they were very vague in the listing and I only stumbled over them by accident (and didn't appear in ebay topics!) I'll inspect my purchase when it arrives and send an order off to Judith Edge for a cross-arm pan and the grill/window frames if they're able....... then probably leave them in my project pile for a long time! The end wish is for an 83 in IC colours as seen at the very end on ecs workins, 83012 seems a likely candidate: http://www.jubilees.co.uk/photos/45593g.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
47164 Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Ah satan so your the one, the cab front looked identical to the dc kits model. Having just finished the dc kits 81 I can recommend that for glazing use the southern fine cast triang e3001 pack, and wheel base and diameter the lima 33/87 ones are about right , if you cut the lima chassis either side of the tanks etc it should with a little bit of filing fit just right, and set the weight in the middle of the body it will give you good traction. For the air tanks on the roof as mentioned styrene or brass tube works well, I did try the tanks that charlie petty of dc kits sold but they are too short and too high and look more like a representation of hgv fuel tanks....so they are for another project. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Hi 47164, cheers for the advice. I was going to initially look for a Heljan 33 chassis with lima 33 as a fall back (a lima 87 would just end up remaining an 87 with me!) From zooming in on the picture I think some of the window frames require a little filing smooth first. What diameter tube do I need to look for for the roof tanks? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp3970 Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 I believe I got the last etchings from Judith Edge, although it is possible he made more. For the centre tank I used 1/4" tube and 7/32" for the outer two tanks. However I am currently working on a 3D drawing of the air tanks which once done I plan on printing. I got the SE Finecast AL1 glazing for my 83, haven't tried to fit it yet but it seems to fit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Well with my standard glacial modelling pace let me know if you do create the 3d prints for the tanks please. Looking at pictures I always assumed the 3 tanks were the same size, good job I asked really! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
47164 Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Jsp,s tanks are amazing, like you I was unaware of the different diameters, as using the loco illustrated drawings they are all the same size.i am trying to think of a not too torturous way of making the bands on them. I have used 4mm brass tube with car body filler for the tanks. Also in due respect to dc kits it does make you wonder if the ac electric moulds having been doing the rounds in yorks and lincs ? As the l&m , apple green and dc resin bodies look remarkably similar. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Looking closer at the drawing they are different diameters. http://s405.photobucket.com/user/dirty_numb_angel_boi/media-full/British%20Diesels%20And%20Electrics%20Drawings/Class83-AL3.jpg.html is the mould still in production then? I was under the impression none had been produced for a while. How do others bogie sides compare quality wise? White metal ones should be coming with mine but heard there are also resin out there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 They used to be 6, 7, & 6mm back in my day. I've not seen any Applegreen AC's in a long time, but I'm sure they were not the same as the DC/Silver Fox 81 & 85, themselves being a vast improvement over the earlier brass & whitemetal kits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf27 Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 The Apple Green Engines AC body kits are the ex-L&J models from around 2000. The original 83 moulds wore out in about 2005 with a new master produced. I have one of each and the original is better in terms of the cab shape but still needed s lot of work to make it anything like sn 83. The new version is far less superior and, in my opinion, not worth the effort.. Cheers Shane Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp3970 Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Well with my standard glacial modelling pace let me know if you do create the 3d prints for the tanks please. Looking at pictures I always assumed the 3 tanks were the same size, good job I asked really! They are currently in the design stage as I am still learning the programs, but seem to becoming along quite nicely. I started a thread that discusses my attempts, including some photos of the first tank design, currently on the second as I am reworking the ends. Also included are a basic AL1 bogie frame which was drawn to see if I had the ability to do something like that. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92188-sketchup/ They used to be 6, 7, & 6mm back in my day. I was looking at that drawing a few days ago and it would seem that the tanks for an 83 are longer than the 85, which I based my tanks on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp3970 Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 (edited) Jsp,s tanks are amazing, like you I was unaware of the different diameters, as using the loco illustrated drawings they are all the same size.i am trying to think of a not too torturous way of making the bands on them. I have used 4mm brass tube with car body filler for the tanks. I used thin strips of styrene but it was a real pain. Not only did I glue the strips to the tanks but I also managed to glue the following, the strips to my fingers, the strips to the tweezers, the tweezers to my fingers, one finger to another finger, and the tanks to my fingers. Hence why I have decided to go with 3D printing for it. Edited December 11, 2014 by jsp3970 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp3970 Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 So looking at the drawings on flickr it looks like there were several different types of tanks, If the drawings are accurate! 81 had all three tanks of the same size. 83 had longer tanks with the centre tank being slightly larger than the outer two. 84 had had tanks between the 81 and 83 in length with the centre tank being substantially larger in diameter than the outer two. As I was basing my work on the 85 tanks they are still ok, but useless for any of the above three classes. I wonder what the tanks on the 82 looked like? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
47164 Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Thanks jsp...sounds like a challenge ,I might just try the styrene route and try softening them in warm/hot water of with a hair dryer to see if that works. (An idea from a carpet laying method i am using in car restoration). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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