Jump to content

Hornby announce the LNER J36


Recommended Posts

Don't make the same silly mistake that I did!  I bought a Hornby TTS class 40 at Model Rail Scotland, shop owner tested it for me on DC and it ran perfectly, I got it home and it ran OK in one direction but would start and stop in the other direction, I asked for advice online and I was asked if I had a Relco, which I have - turns out I was lucky not to fry the chip as DCC chips and Relcos do not make good bedfellows apparently.  Loco ran fine once the Relco was switched out of line.

 

Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 27/03/2019 at 17:20, tractionman said:

 

Looks terrific.

 

I'm just a DC person, what would happen if I ran it on my layout, would it work!? Or would I need to do something?

 

Cheers,

 

Keith

 

 

 

 

Some options for you:

1. Buy it as it is and remove the chip. You can sell the chip on later. You may need to source a DCC blanking plug if one isn't included with the loco.

2. Hope a shop (like Rails) sells these with the chip removed. May not happen if these prove popular.

3. Ask a shop to remove the chip and sell you the loco at a discount.

  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Paul from Hornby thoughtfully forwarded me a blanking plug, so I’m hoping it is just a case of remove TTS sound chip and replace. I have Haig already , so I’m thinking it should just be the same as that electrically with chip removed. But must admit never bought anything DCC before, being strictly DC only and running a Relco ,so a bit apprehensive . It’s probably relatively simple though

Edited by Legend
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, Legend said:

Paul from Hornby thoughtfully forwarded me a blanking plug, so I’m hoping it is just a case of remove TTS sound chip and replace. I have Haig already , so I’m thinking it should just be the same as that electrically with chip removed. But must admit never bought anything DCC before, being strictly DC only and running a Relco ,so a bit apprehensive . It’s probably relatively simple though

 

You would be better asking Hornby that one to be one the safe side unless someone else has done it before.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold

Mines here, what a fine creature it is !

this one does much more for me than the plain black one.

Of note, in the box the snow plough is included.

 

The sound is a pretty nice chuff of a typical goods 0-6-0 i’m Sure this could be used on a few such locos...

 

My loco does not work on DC by default.

I traced this to CV29 which was set to 2 by default.

The instructions allude to this, and indicate a setting of +4 (cv29=6) to turn on D.C. operation without sound.

9C3D4686-00E8-4897-8535-4F5CD88B5601.jpeg.a3df60f8977c6d83881f0f19b0cc8cc7.jpeg

 

once set on DC operation was silent (TTS doesn’t work on D.C.) but was fine..6FBBF933-C7D1-4714-871B-8AFAA679719E.jpeg.18c8d8adda94b9b23653a110f78767e2.jpeg

 

then to business, I’m a D.C. only person and use Bluetooth for sound, so I’m removing the chip for the great colourful website in the clouds..

 

94638719-4469-43AE-A046-76235E1787FD.jpeg.f96cbdbcccbf4547f94aea1f4074d7d2.jpeg

Remove the coal load first (it’s loose).

Remove the two circled screws, hold the body and pull the chassis, it comes straight out. There is a lug at the back of the tender in line with the drawbar hook to hold the rear in place.

 

B7B26C0D-FEEB-4276-B006-B951EEF41A8D.jpeg.7c551f07b6e07e63461d74062356ae36.jpeg

you need to remove the speaker, which is soldered to the chip, but just to make it a bit less straight forwards, the wiring from the plug and the pick ups go through the same hole the speaker is in.

remove the 2 immediately screws on top of the metal retainer, then remove the two screws holding the 8 pin decoder harness in place also..CFD92561-4245-4FDB-B2E8-23875B3433B2.jpeg.bf19bdb8e872bf31804a2a1a46c9c0de.jpeg

unfasten the decoder from the harness, unwind the wires and pull the chip through the hole towards the speaker, do not move the speaker

45BDB382-5F3B-4231-9C89-5518D1525B32.jpeg.f2e4f608c1e7cdca5cf6534b4b9e131c.jpeg

then lift the speaker off and remove safely.

return the metal weight and screw down.

0832B5B5-9EAB-41AD-8962-B78CE97CFB8A.jpeg.493148c7a07bee16b91b8c3837846b10.jpeg

add the blank plate..F1097B43-71F5-4769-90A4-C5BBB3889799.jpeg.86ff68c4c5806299edcd979447636272.jpeg

give it a test before reassembling, line up the screwhole first, then press the hook on the tender rear to slot in.

 

AA00DB69-B777-43B7-9A6E-5240808396BC.jpeg.bee02f3045bdd7782e62e1248a4b3dfe.jpeg

 

only gripe was the smokebox door door handles had come off in the mail..

 

97E54136-7D4E-4128-B888-C592B6580404.jpeg.3267b3730621826699bf9e9704f79d50.jpeg

But quickly reglued back in place..

A8C079D6-7A0C-4B8F-BC34-058438D8217E.jpeg.a62d5431d03008350deced99f34adebf.jpeg

 

ACB00004-46D1-4D7B-B50D-A883E2A8BE93.jpeg

ED794368-A61E-4390-AAB7-C17AACF745CA.jpeg

 

 

 

Edited by adb968008
  • Like 3
  • Agree 1
  • Informative/Useful 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Same here - it looks like the default for CV29 of 6 has been set incorrectly to 2.  Changing to 6 had the same effect on mine, working in both modes....

 

I did find the volume level from the factory to be over the top and setting the overall volume level using CV182 set to 1 does reduce it a bit but the other sounds may still need playing about for the desired level.  

 

Bob

 

[Just to add, if I have but one criticism of it - the exhaust beat at slow speed on first setting it in motion has a curious echo to each beat but a great loco otherwise (your chuffs may vary) ] :)

Edited by Bob Reid
Adding more info
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Bob and Adb. Very useful information . Does look a bit more involved than simply pulling out TTS chip and inserting blanking plug , but I think i’ll Cope ok . 

 

I run a relco so the chip needs to come out anyway , but I suspect there maybe a few DC users a bit puzzled that it doesn’t go as bought if that CV is set wrong. The accepted position is that you can run DCC on DC it’s just that the sound won’t work.   Frankly it’s a bit annoying to have this faffing around (and extra expense) on a new loco. Would have been better had they sold TTS and DC  versions from the off

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, micklner said:

Obvious question at this point. What do you do if you are DC only and do not have access to a Prodigy Controller ?

 

A common question at the moment and it's the reason why, at this precise moment, I have three on my desk in-front of me with their tender tops off! Shortly I'll have three J36 chips and three DC J36's, two of each have pre-sold this afternoon! :)

  • Like 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, micklner said:

Obvious question at this point. What do you do if you are DC only and do not have access to a Prodigy Controller ?


Just disconnect the decoder plug and fit a banking plate Mick as ADB did above.  If you want to keep the decoder in place and functional you'll have to speak to a friend with a DCC controller (any one, not just the prodigy one used) and just change CV29.

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold

I agree, in order to run it on DC, you will need to remove the chip or change the CV with a DCC controller.

I don't think there is a way around this.

 

I only actually have a DCC controller, for these types of situations (I don't run DCC myself), but ive often bought stuff that was chipped and needed to either test it before disposing of the chip or set it for DC running... extreme maybe, but I have more locos than I could afford to chip! so DC will be my mode for a little while yet.

 

On a different tack though here is my J36 Maude tonight running with sound on DC. Though it's a speaker in the brake van providing the notes. Rule one applies, I don't think Maude ever ran with Cemflo's..

 

Everytime I think of this engine, I think of Rainhill in 1980.

 

Edited by adb968008
  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Regarding authentic consists for Maude, circa 2000 when by then in BR (early crest) livery she attended a Polmadie open day with 80105 and 419 - all three travelled by rail (hauled) to the event. On the evening of the last day after the punters had gone home, as much for a bit of fun as necessity, Maude was used for shunting the depot area which included some Virgin liveried loco hauled Mark 3s!

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Took delivery of a Maude today. The boiler top seams are much less visible than on the BR version - in fact, virtually invisible - and the gap under the cab seems not to be present on my sample. It's interesting to see that Hornby have attempted to represent (not entirely successfully) the "ghosts" of earlier washout plugs, present on the real thing (see attached photo). 

 

However, it still suffers from the wonky handrail/mispositioned handrail knob on the LHS of the boiler, and wonky vacuum exhauster pipe. Ironic, too, that on the first LNER loco in years that Hornby have got the footplate straight on, the lining on the valance is wonky (on my sample at least). 

 

 

 

Re running on DC, presumably the easiest fix is to just wire the loco pickups to the motor and forget the tender pickups?  

P1370034.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been meaning to ask - does anyone know of the source of a drawing showing the tender cabs?  I have an early BR version that will become one of the Hawick locos (can't decide which yet), all of which had tender cabs of varying sorts.  There are several pictures in Yeadon and elsewhere, and if all else fails I can probably make a decent guess at dimensions, but a drawing would be preferable.

 

Thanks in advance.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Being, er, unenthusiastic about TTS steam sound, I spoke to Dan at Derails yesterday at about lunchtime. I asked him if he would remove the decoder and sell me Maude at the price of a J36 without a decoder. It was delivered today at 10.45, spick and span, decoderless and at the price suggested. Fantastic service! Thank you, Derails! :good_mini:

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Tim Lewis said:

I've been meaning to ask - does anyone know of the source of a drawing showing the tender cabs?  I have an early BR version that will become one of the Hawick locos (can't decide which yet), all of which had tender cabs of varying sorts.  There are several pictures in Yeadon and elsewhere, and if all else fails I can probably make a decent guess at dimensions, but a drawing would be preferable.

 

Thanks in advance.

There was a BR "standard" one, Tim,  which is the one I showed a few pages back on this thread. Mine, too, is a Hawick loco, 65316 - doubtless for the same reason you want one! - and has the added advantage of being fitted with the rare single-line plough, as Yeadon shows (p.117), and which Hornby supply as standard. There might be a drawing in the OPC list at the NRM, but Yeadon's views show the tender cabs clearly enough (where they start relative to certain features on the tender and how far back/forward they stretch) to make scaling from a photo easy enough.

 

But there was one without a tender cab at Hawick: Peter Tuffrey's The Last Days of Scottish Steam has a colour (no less!) picture of 65233 derailed in the yard at Kelso. It has plain rods, though, but I imagine you're converting to P4 with the NBR Developments kit, which includes plain rods. 

Edited by Daddyman
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold

Quick Q - does anyone know of a supplier who offers ready made (or bespoke?) decals for renaming (and renumbering) the Hornby J36 - in any of its livery guises? I’m hoping to resurrect “Arras” and potentially “Allenby” - but drawn a blank so far from a quick search of the usual suspects (Modelmaster Jackson Evans, Fox, google!). There are sheets for a selection of the Scottish D11 Directors, etc and the J36 would seem a prime candidate for similar, with some v distinctive names topical following WW100. Any suggestions much appreciated :-) 

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, craigowen1976 said:

Quick Q - does anyone know of a supplier who offers ready made (or bespoke?) decals for renaming (and renumbering) the Hornby J36 - in any of its livery guises? I’m hoping to resurrect “Arras” and potentially “Allenby” - but drawn a blank so far from a quick search of the usual suspects (Modelmaster Jackson Evans, Fox, google!). There are sheets for a selection of the Scottish D11 Directors, etc and the J36 would seem a prime candidate for similar, with some v distinctive names topical following WW100. Any suggestions much appreciated :-) 

 

Modelmaster definitely did them as I've got a set. Maybe send them an email to see if they have some left.

 

Sheet 4007 BR ex CR & NBR Locomotives CREAM (even though they don't all fit in that category)

 

The J36s are Maude, Gough and Somme. So possibly not the ones you want.

 

The rest of the sheet is various D11/2, D29, D30, D34 as well as Ben Wyvis and Clan MacKinnon

 

 

Jason

Link to post
Share on other sites

They had some a few weeks back as I got a sheet from them - how many more they still have I don't know but it might be worth phoning them. You will get far better results by using this method rather than emails as they prefer to talk, strange as it may seem to some, but are very helpful  and very busy and provide a very useful product.

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Ben Alder said:

They had some a few weeks back as I got a sheet from them - how many more they still have I don't know but it might be worth phoning them. You will get far better results by using this method rather than emails as they prefer to talk, strange as it may seem to some, but are very helpful  and very busy and provide a very useful product.

Agreed, definitely phone only for Modelmaster. I think the website actually says don't contact them by the email address - he doesn't have time to answer emails since they lost a member of their team a few years back. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.