gobbler Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Looking at my reference pictures the axle boxes seem to slope outwards Like this i hope.....now to get my putty out and back fill all around them axle boxes....... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 2, 2019 Author Share Posted March 2, 2019 After back filling the angled axle boxes and letting them dry thoroughly, it was time to get out some microstrip and stretch a bit of sprue. This is how the vans are looking now........ Not bad for a couple of hours work, just a little tidying up of the ends of the springs. Then on to the 'V' hangers and brake gear. After that, finish off the door details and then work on the ends. What do you think chaps? Scott 6 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted March 2, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 2, 2019 Great work as always! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon4470 Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 Hi Scott Full of admiration for the detail that you achieve. I have just finished my first scratch built wagon. It has taken a lot longer than yours - 9 months in fits and starts! I’m pleased overall with the end result....not perfect....the next one will be better! Jon 6 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium gazman424 Posted March 2, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 2, 2019 Hi All, Been a long time since I've posted, but sadly the mojo has been full steam ahead, but with no time to employ it!! Anyway, I've managed to the finish the exNBR Brake 3rd; I'm also beavering away with a scratchbuilt Toad E; Still in a very (obviously) unfinished state, but it'll get there!! Gaz. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 3, 2019 Author Share Posted March 3, 2019 (edited) Gents, Very impressed with your handy work there. Would like to have seen some in-progress photos as theres some ideas id like to replicate. John4470, how did you do the bogies? Gazman424, your brake 3rd, do you use a silhouette cutter? Your toad, looks like it could have been a kit, have did you achieve the panel work? And lastly the brown wagon, how did you do the side vents and axle boxes? Looks like i can still learn alot, thats what i love about this hobby. There's always something new to learn. Like i said very impressive gents. Scott Edited March 3, 2019 by gobbler Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon4470 Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 Hi Scott I cheated with the bogies on the hopper wagon. I modified some Dundas ones - basically replacing leaf springs with coil springs. The wagon is OO-9 and I found attempts to make the bogies turned out way over scale and/or not robust enough. Jon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium gazman424 Posted March 3, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 3, 2019 Morning Scott, The Brake Van and Dia.23 Fish Van (the brown one) are both the end product of my Emblaser 1 laser cutter. The were designed via Coreldraw, and allow me to achieve accuracy and repeatability which I could only otherwise dream about. There was a fairly steep learning curve with the laser, and one was finding materials which suited my needs. I have settled on card, which seems to satisfy my needs. The panelling and louvres are either 'scored' - one pass of the laser - or cut right through to achieve the effect required. The axleboxes are built up in layers. The underframes are also card, very similar to the way you construct yours; The longitudinal slots are where the brakes are fixed. The Vacuum cylinder is a 3D print, which I am now able to do myself thanks to plenty of overtime and the purchase of an Anycubic Photon 3D printer. If you have any other questions, please let me know! Gaz. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 3, 2019 Author Share Posted March 3, 2019 Hmmmm, John4479, Good going with the bogies, my first go at carriages were the suburban gresley coahes which Hornby now make, i used Bachmann bogies for them. The Fox and GE bogies ive made for my more recent endeavours were more an experiment that turned out not too shabby (if I say so myself) and will continue to make them. There hasn't been any rocking and they roll freely too. Gazman, What you're doing looks great. Sounds a bit like rocket science and a bit out of my pockect too. But the results you're getting are great. Thanks gents for your contributions.......... I have a problem........my latest CCT The roof is a good 1mm higher, when between my other models it's quite noticeable. The sole bars are the same height The wheels are the right diameter The height of the body sides are pretty much the same too. Which leaves one thing........the height of the radius of the roof, unless of course I've got it right and there is a difference. Hopefully if Mr jwealleans is reading this, maybe he could shed some light on my predicament. Otherwise it means some major surgery on the roof (which I'm not looking forward too) but i suppose I'll do it. Cheers Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon4470 Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 Hi Scott it it could be an optical illusion but the eaves/ cantrail height looks higher on the CCT when compared to the other van. Jon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted March 4, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 4, 2019 There was always a bit of height variation too - loading, spring age etc. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Are the wheels the same? I measure with vehicles on track in case the flanges are different heights. I agree with Jon, the cantrail on the right does look higher. I'm sorry, I haven't time to look back over the thread - are they the same diagram? These things were built in 'high' and 'low' roof models (and I can't remember which of the LNER and NER built which). The Low roof ones had torpedo vents on the centreline of the roof, the high roof ones had a roof up to the loading gauge and cantrail ventilation. On that basis, you may not have a problem at all. From memory these are in the yellow (Campling) volume of the Historic Carriage Drawing books. That should tell you what is what. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted March 4, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 4, 2019 I'd go with the fact there is a heavier load inside the left hand vehicle so it is sitting lower on it's springs. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 Thanks for your input chaps. I'll investigate further Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 5, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 5, 2019 Very nice work Scott, thanks for sharing. Cheers, Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 After much scratching of the head, and looking at my drawings, i discovered the sole bar and head stocks 0.75mm out in height. So ive ripped all that off and replaced with some nice shiny new sole bars and head stocks of 2.8mm, shaved off the corresponding thickness off of the bogie spacers, could probably make it sit another 0.5mm if im careful, but the overall height is looking better. Have also added detail to the end doors and added some queen posts. Cheers Scott 11 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 18, 2019 Author Share Posted March 18, 2019 The CCT height has now been sorted, so ive cracked on with other bits and bobs..... First up The CCT now has the angles that run along the sole bars, queen posts have been added and I've started the vac cylinders made out of a straw I found, thats just the right diameter. Secondly The GE corridor full brake. This now has bogies, (Well the beginnings of them at least), queen posts, battery boxes, and again my straw vac cylinders. Lastly My two GE 10 ton ventilated vans. They now have the beginnings of the brake equipment, the photos I have show the brakes on the inside of the wheels on one side only, if anyone can add more info if both sides of the wheels on both sides of the van had brakes, please let me know. Well thats it for the time being. Thanks for looking, Scott 7 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl Tooley Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 All the photos I've seen of unfitted vans of this type have brakegear as you describe, but there was also an AVB fitted version with eight shoe clasp brakes. D 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 As Darryl says. These are D & S kits, fitted then unfitted versions (the kit does both): 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 19, 2019 Author Share Posted March 19, 2019 I guess i'd better make them fitted, as i model late 50's early 60's transitional period. I dont suppose many unfitted wagons lasted this late. The only foreseeable problem i have, is where did i find that straw i used to make the vac/air cyclinders........ Thanks for your help chaps. Scott 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 Done a tad more, busy with life.........you know how it is. Anyway, took the plunge and have added the full set of brakes to my GE vans. Still a few bits needed to complete the build, most noticeably, for the sides anyway, are the hinges and locking mechanism. Then its out with the guitar string for the vac pipes and add the buffers..... Then hey presto..... Scott 7 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 26, 2019 Author Share Posted March 26, 2019 Just a wee bit of stretched sprue to finish off the hinges.. Doesn't look too shabby, even if I say so myself..... I think, it's just the buffers and vac pipes left Next, I'll finish these off, may need some help and extra pictures from you gentlemen Started these ages ago, never attempted frames, headstocks and sole bars, back then. But with the success I've had with with my past projects on this thread, im going to what I can achieve. Scott 5 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 Any use? Butterly, 2013. 3 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 Thanks very much JW. The bit that worried me most was the area under the long slope to the headstock, thanks to your pictures, i can see clearly that its plated. That should help with keeping the frame rigid and square. Thanks again. Scott 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted April 4, 2019 Author Share Posted April 4, 2019 It was my birthday the other week, saw these and couldn't resist. As well as having some drawings for the 20t covered hopper i am going to be complete, it had a drawing for a GE well wagon. So while waiting for various bits and pieces to dry, I've knocked this up in the last couple of evenings. I have another drawing in this book below of a slightly smaller MAC L Does anyone else have the other Peter Tatlow books? What are they like for GE area? Im after drawings for GE wagons, hoppers and vans, etc..... I know a couple of his books deal with Scottish vehicles. Cheers Scott 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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