My/our coach, carriage & wagon scratch building thread

[gobbler]

1 hour ago, jwealleans said:

What problem did you have with the Archer rivets?  I find them very good.

When i cut the strip, and soaked ready to apply they twisted and crinkled the clear backing.  Since then, I've given the areas a light sanding ready for my stretched sprue rivets.

 

My method...

1. Gloss area

2. Place the ready to slide decal near the position

3. Pull the backing away.

4. Gently move into correct position with a cocktail stick and ear bud.

 

The decal sheet was bought a year ago and look in good condition with no creasing on the sheet. 

 

Khris, it was the smaller rivets sheet, I used them first on my CCT, with varying degrees of success a few pages back.  Even then I struggled, I also thought these decal rivets looked to 'fine'.

 

Cheers, scott.

[jwealleans]

I started with the mixed sheet, AR88001 from Historex.   Apply them like waterslide decals - I've not had the issue Scott mentioned above.

 

They can drop off readily after they dry, so I either prime them very quickly or apply a drop of MekPak which melts the backing and sticks them on.

[micklner]

I have never used them on a gloss surface, either bare metal/plastic or primed only.

 

I  brush Micro Sol onto them after laying, then leave overnight ,and then spray with primer to seal them onto the surface, DO NOT touch them after intial laying/Micro Sol stage. The occasional one has moved/fallen off  at this stage, just replace and seal again once dry.

 

 

[gobbler]

Micklner,

 

Seeing the rivets you've laid has inspired me to try again on the next builds i do.  I'm not one for giving in to a sheet of decals, honest. 

 

I think it will be plank wagons next of various sizes.  So I'll give them another go then.

 

Thanks for your technique on laying them on a plain surface.

 

Scott 

[gobbler]

I've been quite on hear of late.....so a time for a quick update on my shenanigans....

 

I've bought myself an olfa cutter and have been practicing scribing my lines....

1st up, 3 covered GE wagons

 

Then there are 2 x 3 plank wagons and a 5 plank GE wagon

 

The scribing is ok, i think,  if a little wide.

 

Of course you cant have wagons on the rails without 'W' irons.  So I've got a little production run of these I'm doing at the moment, all from the drawing i posted a page or two ago.

 

When these are done, I'm not sure what to do.  Possibly some ballast wagons or some of the older type wooden bulk grain wagons as in these two types from Peter Tatlows LNER wagons.

 

But unfortunately there is no accompanying drawing.  I have two options......

 

1. They were seemingly based on a GWR design, got to get a book for the scale drawing, but dont know which one.......help any one?

2. I have a parkside dundas model which i could take the measurements from.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Scott

 

[jwealleans]

Scott, I've done a couple of those grain vans by cutting up the Parkside kit, shuffling the panels around and building the doors.  The GW diagram is V22, I think.  There are a number of detail differences between the two.   You'll find them on my workbench thread.

 

Graeme King also has a mould for the body if you ask him very nicely and don't mind a one-piece resin casting.

[gobbler]

11 hours ago, jwealleans said:

Scott, I've done a couple of those grain vans by cutting up the Parkside kit, shuffling the panels around and building the doors.  The GW diagram is V22, I think.  There are a number of detail differences between the two.   You'll find them on my workbench thread.

 

Graeme King also has a mould for the body if you ask him very nicely and don't mind a one-piece resin casting.

 

Thanks Jwealleans,

 

I will look for v22 drawings and see what i come up with.  Nice idea btw of doing a cut and shut on the parkside model.  Also a nice idea of the resin model........but being a reader of this thread.....you should know by now, i just gotta have a go at scratching it.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[jwealleans]

This should make it fairly apparent how I did it:

 

 

... and here it is painted.

 

 

These vans had an interesting history.  Built to diagram V22, they were rebuilt to carry cement when the grain traffic ceased, then rebuilt back to grain hoppers but with no side doors and given diagram V29.  This is a V29:

 

 

This is a GW one I built for someone else:

 

 

 

 

[gobbler]

I really like the brass detailing you have done with the doors.

 

These are what im looking at doing.  A rake of 3 possibly 4 with slight variations between them.

 

Good looking models.

 

Scott

[gobbler]

Haven't updated this thread in a while, life getting in the way, as per usual.

 

Been busy on and off as you can see in the following pictures.

The covered wagons now have wheels and I'm starting to add detail to the axle noxes.  You can also see one of the two salt vans i made, now in green.

Here you can see both salt vans, and behind, the three grain hoppers i made a while back.  Just in front are the two 5 plank and two 3 plank GE wagons.

These are being made whilst i wait for various bits and bobs to dry thoroughly. 

 

Thanks for looking.

 

I'll post more as and when.....

 

Cheers

 

Scott

 

 

[gobbler]

On 26/02/2020 at 07:27, jwealleans said:

Scott, I've done a couple of those grain vans by cutting up the Parkside kit, shuffling the panels around and building the doors.  The GW diagram is V22, I think.  There are a number of detail differences between the two.   You'll find them on my workbench thread.

 

Graeme King also has a mould for the body if you ask him very nicely and don't mind a one-piece resin casting.

The grain vans,  what buffers are those and where can i procure some?

 

Thanks in advance 

 

Scott

[jwealleans]

They were probably ABS, it's so long since I built them, but you'll get the same thing from Lanarkshire Models these days.

[gobbler]

Been tinkering with my wagons again......

 

I've finished one side of one wagon, looking good so far.  I've used up all of my 'W' irons i made a week or two back.  Also all my top hat bearings have been used up too, but thats ok, ive still got 7 wagons to complete.

 

Every wagon is free running with no wobble.  Still loads of details to finish.

I.e. axle boxes, leaf springs, brake gear....and of course, one or two more rivet/bolt details to do.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

As all ways, comments, crits and questions are always welcome. 

 

Scott

[gobbler]

I've literally had a riviting evening......pun intended

Also added the 'T' sections on the ends of the 5 plank wagons.  Have yet to work the drop side brackets on the 3 plank wagons.  There's still plenty to do on these wagons.

 

Have also added all the leaf springs on these 3 vans,

 Have yet to add the door hinges and rivet detail to these.   All wagons need to have the brake gear added and buffers.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

Crits, comments and questions always welcomed. 

 

Scott.

 

[chris p bacon]

Some very neat and tidy work, I like working with plastic but can easily use too much solvent. 

 

Are the rivets small pieces of rod ?

[gobbler]

18 minutes ago, chris p bacon said:

Some very neat and tidy work, I like working with plastic but can easily use too much solvent. 

 

Are the rivets small pieces of rod ?

Nope....even cheaper than that.

 

Stretched sprue from some of my tamiya 1/35th tank models I do occasionally. 

 

I use tamiya extra thin cement, I've used others like mek pak, but i get on with this the best. 

 

Thanks for your question. 

 

Scott

[5&9Models]

Very crisp work, most impressive.

[gobbler]

Well, that's one side of one van done with rivets and locking mechanism. 

 

Just 5 more sides to do

 

Thanks for looking,

 

Scott

Edited March 23, 2020 by gobbler

[gobbler]

Had nearly a two year break, but back in the saddle.

 

This time it's going to be a rake of Thompson non-corridor coaches.

Dimensions in mm.  

 

 

These are two of the above dwg.  Ive noted ive over cut the door window cut-outs.  I'll have at least one good side, though i will try and fill the gaps in.

 

I've found some guard and 4 x 3rd's,  forgot i had these.

 

 

When i found my guard and 3rd's I came across my GE restaurant/dining car.

 

So, I'll have lots to do.

 

As always any questions or tips, add to this thread 

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[Bucoops]

Welcome back

[gobbler]

I have used 0.75mm thk plasticard for my previous coach projects.  These Thompson 1st/3rd are made from 0.5mm thk.  No doubt all the windows were easier to cut.  Just got to see how the plastic reacts when i start to assemble them all together. 

 

 

Have yet to scribe the tumble home on the back

 

 

 

Ive added the dimensional drawing too if anyone else fancied having a go.  I know Hornby make them,  could save yourself £20 or more making them yourself. 

 

More later.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[gobbler]

Evening all.

 

I've learnt two things recently.....

 

1) 0.5mm is nice and easy to cut

2) its too thin, for me at least, to make carriage sides.

 

So, i need to get 0.75mm for my carriages.  Shame really, as where the windows are it doesn't look chunky in the relief.   I've got several sheets of 0.5mm, what am I  going to do?

 

Here's the answer 

 

Well I've got this far

 

5 LNER coal wagons based on the Parkside Dundas kit.  So far thats one sheet used.

 

I don't think I was too heavy handed.  I scribed the doors into the front and scribed the horizontals on the back so it curve round the tumble home.  

 

[gobbler]

Well my 2nd lot of 0.5mm coach sides didn't turn out that bad.  I guess perseverance is the key and take your time.  Any way the coaches and coal wagons have been put to one side at the moment and I'm currently nearing the end if a GC cattle wagon

 

 

[gobbler]

Well my 2nd lot of 0.5mm coach sides didn't turn out that bad.  I guess perseverance is the key and take your time.  Any way the coaches and coal wagons have been put to one side at the moment and I'm currently nearing the end if a GC cattle wagon

 

 

[gobbler]

All the brackets are on the side of the wagon.  V hangers and brake gear will be put on later.  However, next its paint the inside of the wagon, add some weight and put the roof on.