RMweb Premium Izzy Posted May 21, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 21, 2019 (edited) If you don’t mind faffing around a bit by making your own black panels - and they did seem to vary a bit in shape/size/location going on the photos I have seen - as well as generating the numbering/lettering, then HMRS sheet 25 has all that’s needed, although I am not quite sure if the ‘Grain’ lettering is large enough, may just be the smaller, later size used. Izzy p.s. Sorry, meant to say the wagons look great. And John Dutfields stock the HMRS sets if your passing... Edited May 21, 2019 by Izzy add comments 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 The grain wagons are excellent. I spent time yesterday cutting and filing the back of the vertical stanchions on two Bachmann examples (which have excess plastic to aid moulding), and I'm bound to say that yours look a lot finer and far more like steel angle irons. John. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted May 25, 2019 Author Share Posted May 25, 2019 Just starting to add some colour now. Suprising how different the grey looks unded different light, or same light different angle Scott 8 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyingscotsmanfan Posted May 26, 2019 Share Posted May 26, 2019 Looking good Scott. Don’t forget that the club is on Tuesday this week due to the bank holiday Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted October 29, 2019 Author Share Posted October 29, 2019 Hi all, Been a while, just getting back in the saddle after an enforced break in modelling. I thought I'd start off with something, what I'd call simple, a couple of salt wagons. The first two are based on the Hornby offering, the next couple I'll be using the drawing in 'Rolling stock worth modelling, Vol 1'. So here goes, first I've cut 4 ends. These have been cut and scribed. The inner roof supports are more or less the same size, except that they are 0.75mm shorter in height, to take into account the thickness of the wagon base. More later.... 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted October 29, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 29, 2019 Welcome back 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 Great to see this stuff. I find it an inspiration. Keep up the great work. richard. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted October 29, 2019 Author Share Posted October 29, 2019 Well had a bit of fun tonight. Inner stiffeners cut out, sides are now scribed. Like two mini kits ready for assembly. Thats it for tonight, it will be a couple more evenings before I'll do any more..... Until then 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted November 4, 2019 Author Share Posted November 4, 2019 Well, the little kits have been assembled and I have just started to add some basic details. Next its on to making the 'W' irons, got to make a fair few of these, probably about 24 or so, for these and a couple of future projects in mind. Thanks for looking. Scott 7 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted November 5, 2019 Author Share Posted November 5, 2019 (edited) The 'W' irons. For any of you readers of this thread, here is the basic diagram. Will be using 0.75mm thk plasticard as I normally do. I've built several wagons as you know and I have had good success with them. The important thing to remember, is to make all the measurements from the long flat side, as this is the datum. The datum edge will be glued to the base of the wagon. As long as the base was flat when the ends and sides were put on, everything should work out fine. The angled edges where the triangle cut outs are work out to be about 0.8mm thick. Putting a pilot hole of 1mm approx before cutting out the rest of the irons is advisable. Once you have 4, sandwich all the blanks and open out to 2mm ready for the brass top hat bearing, this should ensure that the holes are in the correct position through the whole set. Thanks for looking Scott Edited November 5, 2019 by gobbler 1 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted November 8, 2019 Author Share Posted November 8, 2019 The drawing above........ One important dim left out....oops!! Just beside the 10.5, it should say 9.5, which is the height of the outer sloping edge. Better crack on a few more to do. Thanks for looking Scott 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted November 9, 2019 Author Share Posted November 9, 2019 The brass top hat bearings have been glued in and the 'W' irons stuck to the wagon base..... Both smooth runners, with the added bonus of no wobble....nice Ive noticed a couple of the angles on the irons look slighlty out. But onece the axle boxes and springs are on, they shouldn't notice (I hope !) Thanks for looking, dont forget any crits or ideas welcome Cheers, Scott 10 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold malcolmh Posted November 9, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 9, 2019 (edited) Deleted Edited November 10, 2019 by malcolmh Answered my own question Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted November 14, 2019 Author Share Posted November 14, 2019 A bit more done. Ive found my archer rivet decals, just some buffers needed to complete and of course a lick of paint. Thanks for looking Scott 5 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted November 14, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 14, 2019 47 minutes ago, gobbler said: Ive found my archer rivet decals They're really good, but they drive me potty ! Some really nice builds you've done. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted November 18, 2019 Author Share Posted November 18, 2019 Can't help myself, ever feel like that? Next up, a large GE cattle wagon. Im using LNER wagons, Vol 1, by Peter Tatlow. Just a one off this time, just to see how I get on with the roof. The two sides have been scribed, I'm now starting to build the details up. Thanks for looking, crits, Q's & comments are always welcome Scott 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted November 18, 2019 Author Share Posted November 18, 2019 On a bit of a roll tonight. Have made some good progress. Thats one side partially done. You may notice that my original ends radii was too tight, more accurate now. I've decided that i should be able to get away with the two roof supports that tie in the door posts. Thanks for looking Scott 8 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon4470 Posted November 19, 2019 Share Posted November 19, 2019 21 hours ago, gobbler said: On a bit of a roll tonight. Have made some good progress. Thats one side partially done. You may notice that my original ends radii was too tight, more accurate now. I've decided that i should be able to get away with the two roof supports that tie in the door posts. Thanks for looking Scott That’s looking good. That second photo answers ( I think) a question that I had. Namely, do you cut the sides from one sheet or build it up from 2 side panels and a central door section. Looks like one sheet to me withe the framing added after scribing, is that correct? Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted November 19, 2019 Author Share Posted November 19, 2019 Jon Exactly that, with the exception of cutting the slots in the side panels. Before cutting them out everything is scribed then the layers of details are added. I my have to invest in an olfa or tamiya panel scriber as when I scribe with the back of a 10A scalpel, it does tend to throw a burr up either side. Cheers Scott 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted November 20, 2019 Author Share Posted November 20, 2019 (edited) Another productive evening. The basic external bracing and doors has been done. Quite pleased with the result so far. I'll be adding some weight between the doors, before adding the roof, which will stop the droopyness of of the upper part of the wagon sides, It will need to be painted. Ive also noted that there appears to be two open slots on the ends of the cattle wagon. The few pictures i have of this vehicle show the odd bit of plumbers hemp....i mean straw scattered about the floor and protruding through these holes. A nice bit of detail to add, i think. Thanks for looking, Scott Edited November 20, 2019 by gobbler 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 (edited) Bit more progress, Most of the bracketry done, a light sand here and there, then just a few radii to add. Adding the lead into the bottom of the cattle pen is giving it a satisfying weighty feel. The W irons are glued and double 8 spoke wheels are in. FYI the inside distance between the W irons is 23.5mm, this seems to be ideal. Again, free rolling and no wobble. Think i might decorate the inside before i get carriec away with adding more delicate detail. Thanks for looking Scott Edited November 21, 2019 by gobbler 9 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 (edited) Haven't been slacking, the light sanding and the radii have been done to the rear T brackets. Passengers have been added, leaf springs done. Have started on some of the more noticeable rivets, these are made from stretched sprue. Once the rivets have hardened properly, they'll be easier to sand down, just the one side done so far. Just a few jobs left, the ther sides rivets, finish the axle box details, brake gear, bolt details for the split doors, then the roof. Thanks for looking. Scott Edited November 26, 2019 by gobbler 6 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted December 10, 2019 Author Share Posted December 10, 2019 (edited) Well I've faffed around with the archer rivet decals without success, so I've bitten the bullet and stretched a few lengths of sprue. It's taken time, glueing all the rivets in place, just two ends left on one of the wagons. All rivets need to dry hard, then a light sanding. It would probably drive some people mad, but for me, weirdly satisfying......well it keeps me out of trouble. Thanks for looking.... Scott Edited December 10, 2019 by gobbler 6 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted December 11, 2019 Share Posted December 11, 2019 What problem did you have with the Archer rivets? I find them very good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted December 11, 2019 Share Posted December 11, 2019 1 hour ago, jwealleans said: What problem did you have with the Archer rivets? I find them very good. Which ones do you use please? Pack no? Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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