Track Cleaning Fluid - Which is best?

[SDJR7F88]

Hi all. 

I recently I've been looking into track cleaning fluids. I've currently using track cleaning rubbers, but understand these can ware down the track over time (plus hoovering after use). 

So far I've been recommend Rail Zap 2 and Deluxe Track Magic, though I understand Track Magic damages Peco Set-Track over time, which most of my layouts are made from. 

Any body used them, and what do you think of them? Plus can they be used for cleaning loco wheels?

Any help would be much appreciate.   

[amdaley]

Use isopropyl alcohol.

Cheap & readily available.

[pctrainman]

I can't comment on de luxe but I have tried rail zap 2 and I noticed no difference whatsoever , I now use Isopropyl follwed by a quick rub with a Graphite stick and that is so far the best option i've found .

[orford]

Way back in the 1970's and 80's most of us swore by Carbon Tetrachloride, used in the dry-cleaning industry - but it was nasty stuff from just about every other point of view (not least, one's health) and eventually I believe, banned from general sale. But there's no denying that it was the best liquid track cleaner ever, before OR since.

 

Nowadays I just use methylated spirit (the purple stuff). Works extremely well. I've used it as my main track cleaner for decades. Form any chemist or DIY store at a tiny fraction of the cost of so-called 'model railway track cleaning fluids' sold by the model trade. However - a word of warning: Do NOT smoke around it or expose it to any other kind of flame, spark, etc., as it is VERY flammable and also burns with an invisible flame.

 

Regarding abrasive blocks - avoid like the plague the ones sold by Peco and similar. In my experience they have a tendency to score 'grooves' into the surface of the rails which quickly accumulate dirt. This then requires further cleaning and thus effectively self-perpetuates. 

 

On the other hand, the finest block (240 grit) in the 'Garyflex' range will do the job very well indeed and will not damage the surface of the rails in any way. I have been using these for many years and my tracks are still as good as new. Lasts for years as well.

[Huw Griffiths]

Way back in the 1970's and 80's most of us swore by Carbon Tetrachloride, used in the dry-cleaning industry - but it was nasty stuff from just about every other point of view (not least, one's health) and eventually I believe, banned from general sale. But there's no denying that it was the best liquid track cleaner ever, before OR since.

 

...

 

On the other hand, the finest block (240 grit) in the 'Garyflex' range will do the job very well indeed and will not damage the surface of the rails in any way. I have been using these for many years and my tracks are still as good as new. Lasts for years as well.

 

I believe both "carbon tet" and "trike" were banned from general sale (with loads of conditions placed on the few places allowed to use them) - good thing, too.

 

As for Garryflex, like all abrasives, it polishes metals by wearing away their surface - and leaving scratches (small ones in this case) in the metal surface. Despite this - and the risk of leaving a synthetic rubber residue, unless you're careful when degreasing - it's good stuff.

 

Incidentally, I don't think the Gaugemaster abrasive blocks are that far removed from Garryflex (or even its, harder and more brittle, rival marketed as "Sandflex" or "Schleiffix" in various countries) - but I wonder if they might be somewhere around the "120 grit" range.

 

I'm not saying any of this stuff as a "dig" - but merely because, for a number of years, my job involved installing resistance strain gauges. This involved the use of a lot of chemicals (especially organic "degreasing" solvents) and a lot of abrasives, whilst preparing specimen (mainly metal) surfaces to accept various adhesives.

 

 

Huw.

[DCB]

Hi all. 

I recently I've been looking into track cleaning fluids. I've currently using track cleaning rubbers, but understand these can ware down the track over time (plus hoovering after use). 

So far I've been recommend Rail Zap 2 and Deluxe Track Magic, though I understand Track Magic damages Peco Set-Track over time, which most of my layouts are made from. 

Any body used them, and what do you think of them? Plus can they be used for cleaning loco wheels?

Any help would be much appreciate.   

I think the rails will outlast even the most energetic abrasive rubber user.   The problems I get are on the inside f the rail head where dirt builds up and causes derailments, but that is outside with on board battery power.  Indoors I seldom need to clean the rails since banishing most of the traction tyred locos to the display cabinet.  I use a Relco but tru to avoid rail cleaning except on point blades where gunge builds up as trains seem to grip better on slightly dirty track unless you rub the rubber from side to side as you clean, even then the side of the rail head doesn't really get cleaned and most wheels run on the "Gauge Corner" not the flat top of the rails. 

[gordon s]

This may help....

 

https://tonystrains.com/chemist-reviews-cmx-clean-machine/

[Pete the Elaner]

Peco's track rubber leaves small deposits everywhere. It may be mildly abrasive but on the rail, underneath the top layer of nickel silver is...nickel silver.

Gaugemaster's track rubber is similar to the one sold bt the Double O Gauge Association, which many people have told me they consider slightly better.

 

I have some tunnels on my layout so needed something mobile & went for the CMX unit. It seems to work very well but needs a fair bit of traction to pull it.

For fluid, I use Meths. It is a similar chemical to Isopropanol, but a little stronger.

[orford]

This may help....

 

https://tonystrains.com/chemist-reviews-cmx-clean-machine/

 

Having seen these in action I agree they work very well indeed. However, the need to traverse all of your track at least once does mean that on a large layout, all of the necessary running combined with all the attendant switching of points, reversing up sidings, etc, does mean that the track cleaning can take longer than the subsequent running session!

 

They are also very heavy and you will need a good strong heavy diesel to tow them...many small OO gauge steam locos will not budge it. 

 

Finally (and this is personal to me) the O Gauge version which I would need, would set me back around 250 quid and require about half a dozen of my little industrial locos harnessed together to pull it. Which is why I will stick with a Garryflex block and Meths.

 

But if you have the right sort of layout (particularly a 'tail-chaser') then yes I agree, these are pretty unbeatable.

[60159]

Isopropyl alcohol is as good as anything else you can buy and is cheap. Get a litre on-line - it'll last forever (slight exaggeration!) and costs little more than the 200ml bottles you buy at exhibitions and about the same as the very small bottles of sophisticated branded stuff. Remember to clean loco and rolling stock wheels at the same time and banish rubber tyres and plastic wheels. Best cotton buds for cleaning wheels are from Muji - better and smaller heads than on Tesco/Boots etc and the shafts are not plastic.

[Karhedron]

Another vote for isopropyl alcohol. Unlike Railzip, it dries without leaving greasy residues.

 

I normally apply some to a bit of scrap card or MDF and rub the tops of the rails. You will be surpised how much gunk this will remove, even from rails that look clean to the eye.

[AdamsRadial]

I don't use the abrasive blocks because I nickel-plated all the old steel setrack I salvaged to build my layout with, and as it's only a few microns thick on the surface I think the abrasive method would be down to the steel in only a few passes.

 

I mostly just wipe around with a piece of lint-free cloth soaked in either meths or IPA.

 

As a manual cleaning method to remove surface grime burnt-on by arcing, I push an old wine-bottle cork around the track, and then use IPA or meths to remove the black lines left on the surface of the cork. If the track is a bit grimy I might use a piece of balsa wood for the first run around. Both of these methods seem to burnish the rail surface, rather like an old leather strop was used to tidy up the razor between customers.

 

For those of you tempted to try the nickel-plating method, one word of warning, I had a pair of points disintegrate in the plating bath, it may be they were on the point (ugh) of disintegrating anyway, but when I did the rest of the batch I carefully suspended them upside down and lowered them into the bath until only a millimetre of railhead was submerged, leaving the hollow rivets on which the blades pivot clear of the chemicals.

[Dave John]

I find IPA is fine. 

 

Years ago I looked at rtr track cleaning stuff. Custom pads, special liquids, cost. So I knocked this up from junk box bits. 

 

 

 

 

The pads are roll up filter tips dipped in IPA

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place the finger on the manual traction and force adjustment device ( ok, the drawing pin on top ) and push it round the track, easy since the wheels guide it . The pads are cheap enough to be disposable. 

[RosiesBoss]

G'day, all,

 

I've tried quite a variety of cleaning methods on my rails over the last 50+ years of active modelling:

• white spirit/mineral turpentine
• abrasive papers
• methylated spirit
• Isocol (IPA)
• Peco track rubbers
• Fleischmann track rubbers
• Track Magic
• Kitchen paper towels

White spirit and mineral turpentine, meant to thin enamel paints, contain aromatic hydrocarbons that damage plastics, either by partially dissolving some or leaching out the plasticisers and so embrittling others. They also de-fat skin and can cause dermatitis (or worse!).

 

Abrasive papers are messy and inconvenient, often leaving little bits that can be hard to extract from rail joints.

 

Methylated spirit has been, in my experience, a poor solvent, not removing enough of the gunge that builds up on my tracks.

 

Isocol is better than methylated spirit, but does leave an oily residue.

 

Peco rubbers work, but are flimsy and not as good as those made by Fleischmann. I find the latter very convenient, as they are rigid enough to use end-on in narrow spaces.

 

I also use Track Magic as a follow-up to the Fleischmann rubbers, applied principally to wheel treads of locomotives, railcars and trams.

 

For the working overhead wire on my tramway http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/77505-rosemount-tramway/, I gently rub the Fleischmann rubber from underneath, follow up with a coarse kitchen paper towel, then apply Track Magic with its supplied applicator. A few circuits with one of my 4-wheeler trams, re-applying the Track Magic to stubborn areas of track and overhead wire, and running becomes smooth and reliable.

 

I use these methods also on my Carmarthen Junction layout, which operates both Hornby live steam and PWM DC control systems.

 

I hope these comments are of some interest.

 

Regards,

 

Rob

 

 

 

[Johan DC]

Slightly off topic, but is a motorized vacuum cleaner like Dapol's any use? Or just a nice gimmick?

A bit new to this all, although I have a lot of experience with LGB's Track Cleaning engine. Works outdoor way better than any fluid. 

 

PS, I had to reread the first time the use of IPA was mentioned. Couldn't believe anyone using 'the other IPA' for cleaning,. Maybe enjoying one after a job well done

[Patriot87003]

Slightly off topic, but is a motorized vacuum cleaner like Dapol's any use? Or just a nice gimmick?

I regularly use the hoover function of the Dapol track cleaner on my layout - it's scary how much dust, hair and small bits it manages to suck up each time I lift off the lid to empty it! The hoover function is the cleaner's best function in my opinion. I use it coupled to a CMX track cleaner with some Track Magic as the cleaning fluid, with one of the detailed and heavier Hornby Class 31's to haul/push it around.

 

I've been impressed with Track Magic since I've started using it, especially when using it to clean the wheels of my loco's and rolling stock. It also lasts quite a long time. I might try IPA next time to see how it compares.

[57xx]

I'm another IPA user, just applied to a bit of lint free cloth and rubbed over the track.

[Fat Controller]

I haven't noticed it being mentioned, but Maplins supply IPA in both aerosol and straight liquid form.

[tender]

I've been impressed with Track Magic since I've started using it, especially when using it to clean the wheels of my loco's and rolling stock. It also lasts quite a long time. I might try IPA next time to see how it compares.

 

 

I've used both Track Magic and IPA, both work very well. A word of caution if you're going to use IPA to clean rolling stock wheels, it can react with some plastic paint finishes turning them a milky white, so keep it away from the body.

[michl080]

hi,

 

there were a lot of discussions in German railway modelling forums about using ATF as cleaning agent. I have tried it on my tracks and it works quite well. Don't know if it better than any other agent, but it doesn't have a bad smell. I can say that it took a lot of dirt from my rails when I used it for the first time. Apply it VERY thin with a clean lint. Yep, really, ATF like in Automatic transmission fluid.

 

Michael

[47164]

You can't beat good old cheap and cheerful meths .

[mikesndbs]

 

[Torper]

I'm not too sure about that video.  Forst, he uses a Peco track rubber which while it has its supporters also has a lot of critics.  Secondly, he uses IPA - again, while there are lots of people who favour that, there are lots who don't.  Tbirdly, he fulminates against "WD40 or similar" - while that may hold good for basic WD40, a recent supposedly scientific study found that WD40 Contact Cleaner was second only to kerosene as an effective track cleaner.  "Mineral Spirits", eg white sprit, were also recommended.  That same survey didn't like IPA at all.  Whether that is in fact a valid viewpoint I don't know - I'm not a chemist.

 

Effective track cleaning is a frequent topic here and one on which there are various, often completely contradictory, opinions.  For a link to the survey I've mentiond, and some discussion on it, see

DT

[Railpassion]

I've started using graphite on my garage layout and after three months the graphite sections have been faultless with no further attention. The running is much smoother at very slow speeds on DC.  

[Gordon A]

I used to use IPA but have switched to Specialist Fast Drying Contact Cleaner made by WD-40 which is sold as an electrical contact cleaner. I get mine from Screwfix.

It does say "Fast drying non conductive cleaner" on one line, but the bottom line says "For use on electrical equipment, contacts, plastics and rubber".

 

I have been using it when cleaning the commutators on Bachman motors - works a treat with no problems.

 

Gordon A