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If you're not using delayed uncoupling, you can get away without the latch, for example on a passenger loco.  There is also a dodge to solder a wider loop using wire with the original in place as a guide, then cut the original off.  This makes it easier to couple on curves, particularly with longer stock.

 

Alan

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I have been tackling the thorny problem of working signals. I have studied the thread by @Steve Hewitt and here is my version.

The signal is not yet complete as it needs lamp platform and ladder but was finished enough to work. While Steve uses metal in his signal base construction, I used plastic thanks to a demo by Karl Crowther at a recent local EMGS meeting. He also put me on to the sub micro servos. Lighting has not been attempted yet. The post in printed while other parts are MSE salvaged from my last layout.

 

DSCF5051.JPG.65c9b24ff574bc8e0f069b9a5f13bb1a.JPG

 

The post is mounted on a piece of Plastikard with a 12mm plastic tube beneath.

 

DSCF5053.JPG.544792650657c4aca0b02729e32b6e19.JPG

 

The servo is mounted on a homemade bracket thanks to Karl.DSCF5054.JPG.e262b9760977bfd2ca5cb83524b46b94.JPG

 

DSCF5055.JPG.f164dc21ed6973469354a1206b04a11b.JPG

 

The servo bracket is an interference fit on the signal post tube.

 

DSCF5052.JPG.94e4ef7dbdfba67d39aae210ee4efcef.JPG

 

Interesting comparison between a normal-sized servo operating a turnout and the sub micro one. If I can work out how to take movies with my camera there may be a demo later.

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Nice job Jonathan, are these MSE kits, I didn't see if you said?

 

For lighting, I used small 3mm yellow LEDs mounted on the lamp bracket, and powered with a single thin enamal wire for the positive, and used the brass signal post for the return.

 

post-17302-0-75621200-1445634889_thumb.jpg.e17f5a369ad5e34c98fedcabb89b8451.jpg

 

post-17302-0-24830600-1445634893.jpg.b5081696dc067ef3e10d2ea70c299f92.jpg

 

 

See the full thing here:

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64977-bakewell-peak-district-line-br-layout-views/&do=findComment&comment=2064204

 

Cheers,

 

Al.

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Hi Al, thanks for the LED heads-up, but my post is 3d printed but it is hollow so any wires can be threaded to where they are needed. Karl Crowther showed me some nano LEDs he uses so I may go for these if I go down the lighting route. The rest of the parts are MSE.

 

I got the ladder in place and made the lampman's platform, what a fiddly job. I had to use photos from the web to get it, in what I think, is the correct place. Once the glue had set I managed to get an undercoat of Halford's etch primer on the signal and with the aid of a heat gun got it dry so I could finish off the painting.

 

DSCF7008.JPG.4ef5d8f1335f7743c73d1372fa90c8d6.JPG

 

DSCF7009.JPG.1e1cb978cf4aafad643632b07befb49d.JPG

 

DSCF7010.JPG.de2bdf55c9e79eb1f0c59a7d730d74c4.JPG

 

The doll is off for the train to Derby.

 

DSCF7007.JPG.b1fdfb8620f946008b2218de38158992.JPG

 

This is the simplest signal on the layout as all the rest, apart from ground signals are brackets. What fun.

Edited by Rowsley17D
gr
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Have you thought about using fiber optics Jonathan. Then you can mount the LED below the baseboard. I'm considering doing this rather than mounting LEDs on the post.

Regards Lez. 

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29 minutes ago, lezz01 said:

Have you thought about using fiber optics Jonathan. Then you can mount the LED below the baseboard. I'm considering doing this rather than mounting LEDs on the post.

Regards Lez. 


Oooo Now that’s a good idea!

 

Chris

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Hi Lez. I did think about fibre but don't like the look of the cables running down the posts. I know @Steve Hewitt uses this method to great effect but I doubt I could get the cables to look as neat as him. I am very close to DCC Concepts at Settle and am going to call in to see what they do in the LED line.

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4 hours ago, Rowsley17D said:

Hi Lez. I did think about fibre but don't like the look of the cables running down the posts. I know @Steve Hewitt uses this method to great effect but I doubt I could get the cables to look as neat as him. I am very close to DCC Concepts at Settle and am going to call in to see what they do in the LED line.

 

You could run the fibre up the middle of your post, Jonathan, and just bring it out at the top. Optical fibre doesn't like sharp bends though so you might have to drill a hole at 45 degrees to the post to get it to go round.

 

Al

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Ordered some more signalling stuff from MegaPoints to make them work, Wizard for bits and bobs, ModelU for lamps and Brassmasters for cranks. These orders plus parts rescued from the old layout should be sufficient to complete the signalling. It will keep me busy well into next year and probably beyond.

 

I have some spare MSE parts for LMS signals available to anybody who would care to PM me:

 

Adlake lamps

MR lamps

S0012/1 UQ parts

S4/KM4 ex-MR UQ kit.

 

 

Edited by Rowsley17D
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The next signal to be built is the platform 3 starter. It's a bracket signal with a normal arm for normal up line working and a small arm for wrong line working over to down to a virtual crossover off-scene. This allows the up line to be used as a head-shunt for the upper goods yard.

 

DSCF7011.JPG.0ea27a203c11abac320582225dd13b67.JPG

 

I wanted to see if I could build a signal with plastic trimmers as drilling holes for working cranks in brass was not appealing.

 

DSCF7012.JPG.1fac509036d641c6711dc17fc5b495b8.JPG

 

Through handling the staging came off and was later glued with Evo-Stik.

 

DSCF7013.JPG.f014c4d99c258509aa0aeb150acdc8d0.JPG

 

Just about ready for the paint shop. The cranks and wires are made and will be chemically blackened and fitted after painting. 

 

DSCF7014.JPG.1efa9e26ea133fe1a14b6071a6041487.JPG

 

DSCF7015.JPG.36a48ae7ba1b612aeb3115639c526bf0.JPG

 

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Thanks Lez, I bought some ModelU signal lamps, I know they are GWR but I doubt whether they will be seen, as they are hollow. I went to DCC Concepts as Settle is close by and got a packet of their nano LEDs to see if I can light the signals.

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The range of nano LEDs on ebay is unbelievable Jonathan. I tend to buy all my electrics there now mainly because there are almost no model shops left in North London. The loss of  the high street electronic component store was a big blow as well I can't even remember the name of it now. All that's really left is RS components and their prices are really stupid not to mention I can buy from a Chinese supplier and have it arrive in a matter of days for a tenth of the cost compared to a UK supplier who can't get what you order to you in weeks. It's a very sad state of affairs really.

Regards Lez.      

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The construction of the platform 3 starter is complete apart from glazing the small arm, but not attached to its servos yet. The box file is to provide a background.

 

DSCF7019.JPG.a072928226069ba00c352aa0553ad742.JPG

 

 

I've got the ModelU  signal lamps and now I have the nano-LEDs from DCC Concepts in Settle. The LEDs fit perfectly in the lamps with no adjustment but the provided lens cannot be used as the back has self-adhesive film attached to it and so the light is blocked, but once the lamp is in place the lens cannot be seen anyway. The LED is superglued to the lamp bracket so the brightest part shines through the lamp front, then the lamp is glued on top. The thin coated wires are feed down the hollow post and are hooked up to a 12V supply via a 10K ohm resister.

 

All in all it's quite effective but I'll need more coated wire to do the bracket signals as the pre-wiring on the LEDs only just fit down a standard signal post.

 

Sorry about the wonky photos but it's not possible to get a head-on shot while holding the camera, so it's sitting on the lines - no DCC power!

 

DSCF7017.JPG.73c2ef95e381c42396d69ec947974393.JPG

 

The strained wire was correct after the photo was taken. The photo showing red didn't come out. I'll try again tomorrow.

Edited by Rowsley17D
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The next signal to be tackled is the balanced bracket signal which allows access to platform 2 (main road) and the down line to platform 3, the carriage siding and the MPD. The lamp and wires will be installed as I go and retro fitting is difficult. Build again is mainly plastic with MSE fittings. The wires to the nano-LEDs will go down the inside of each doll along the trimmers then down the main post. The copper covered wires are just long enough to through to below the base piece. Progress so far. Hopefully more next week.

 

DSCF7034.JPG.efd93b61dd5869bfee3c2702edce12f6.JPG 

 

 

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Thanks Chris, I wish the signal had been in focus rather than the signal box. Even with the blind down and a dull grey day a lot of light still comes through the window and makes it difficult to see the camera screen.

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1 minute ago, Rowsley17D said:

Thanks Chris, I wish the signal had been in focus rather than the signal box. Even with the blind down and a dull grey day a lot of light still comes through the window and makes it difficult to see the camera screen.

 

I honestly didn’t notice anything out of focus but even so it’s still a really good shot :good_mini:

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