Derwent Spa

[Rowsley17D]

Another station nameboard has been completed.

 

 

 

The two look rather striking at the platform ends and they are double-sided even though the backs will not be seen except in photos.

[Rowsley17D]

Having had a biopsy on a lower leg lesion this morning I was told to sit down as much as possible today, so I pulled my adjustable stool, rescued from my previous employers following an office move, to the edge of the layout and started painting sleepers and rail sides that had either been missed after running out of spray paint  or had become revealed once track had been curved following spraying. Shiny rails show up in photos so I took a couple which I thought I would put up here, see first photo on page 25.

 

 

 

The sunshine effect on the rails in the second photo is from a lamp which assisted with lighting up the sides of the rails.

Edited October 19, 2020 by Rowsley17D

[muddys-blues]

4 minutes ago, Rowsley17D said:

Having had a biopsy on a lower leg lesion this morning I was told to sit down as much as possible today, so I pulled my adjustable stool, rescued from my previous employers following an office move, to the edge of the layout and started painting sleepers and rail sides that had either been missed after running out of spray paint  or had become revealed once track had been curved following spraying. Shiny rails show up in photos so I took a couple which I thought I would put up here, see first photo on page 25.

 

 

 

The sunshine effect on the rails in the second photo is from a lamp which assisted with lighting up the sides of the rails.

 

Hello Jonathan, hope all goes well for the results ? 

 

Best regards

Craig.

[apbolton]

Hi  Jonathan 

I have  spent the last 2 days catching up with your thread, have to say the layout  looks  superb,  hope mine turns out as good as yours.

I decided to  build my buildings using plastic   I love the  scalescenes stuff but was  concerned about  fading and also my layout is in my garage so was also concerned about damp. 

Your attention to detail is excellent   very much my thing, not many people remember drains for downpipes to run into.

I am now following so look forward to the  next installments.

Pandemic permitting we will be  running Hartlepool Show in October 2021  hope you can come across.

Paul

 

[Rowsley17D]

Good to catch-up, Paul, more later.

 

An atmospheric shot as night falls. The mid-evening local to Millers Dale gets the off.

 

 

 

The bank has received greenery further along.

 

 

Edited October 22, 2020 by Rowsley17D

[Rowsley17D]

One of those modelling days I sooner forget. I have an 00 works 2F 0-6-0 which has never run properly. I thought it was due to pick-up problems as it picks up tender one side and engine the other. I put extra pick-ups on the tender but still it stuttered and stalled. Took the motor out and it ran sweetly enough. The engine with the motor out free-wheels easily enough so no problem with quartering. With power on collecting current via the tender but with the engine lifted off the track no problems, put the engine back on the track, stuttering again. It's as if the gears bind I can hear the motor humming when it stalls.

 

The backscenes arrived. Although I had painted the MDF it should be gloss. I tried double side sticky tape as suggested but the backing comes off, so it will be painted tomorrow. So all in all a day spent modelling with absolutely nothing to show for it.

Edited October 26, 2020 by Rowsley17D

[MrWolf]

It sounds to me like you have a problem with the correct meshing of the motor worm wheel with the drive gear. The root to tip measurements between the gears at the closest point is too great so that when the motor is under load, the worm gear is slipping over the top of the teeth on the first drive gear. If you can pack up the rear of the motor, it will decrease the root to tip measurements, increasing the amount of mesh. Another possibility is the position of the motor shaft above the drive gear. It must be dead square and dead centre of the drive gear or the same results will happen.  Check your gear is central and that the motor is secure and square on. 

If the gears are binding, rather than the motor worm trying to climb up the drive gear, then the meshing is too tight and front of the motor requires lifting a few thou.

Edited October 26, 2020 by MrWolf

[lezz01]

I have to agree with MrWolf Jonathan. It sound like the worm and worm gear aren't meshing correctly. It's also worth checking that the front motor bearing isn't shot if it has too much play in it the worm will be trying  to climb out of mesh with the worm gear. A video would be good.

Regards Lez.  

[Rowsley17D]

@MrWolf and @lezz01 thanks for your replies.

 

There are 3 gear wheels to the drive. 2 are mounted in the frames and appear to run well and true, the third is in the gear box which is driven by the worm as usual. There are 2 pieces of plastic strip under the gear box and glued where it's mounted to the frame, 10thou thick? I wonder if these are either too thick or too thin? I'm going to take them out and see what happens. The engine has hardly run so I doubt any bearings are worn.

[Rowsley17D]

Well, I have tried all sorts to get the 2F running without success. It seems to stick twice for each revolution of the driving wheels. I lifted the gearbox another thou clear of the cogs in the chassis but they didn't engage, so returned the originals which were 20thou not 10. I tried lifting the worm off the gearbox cog with a 10thou plastic shim but this did not help either, nor did lowering it with a 10thou shim. I will convert it back to DC and see what happens on the rolling road.

 

On the rolling road with all drivers on rollers it still sticks, remove the rollers under the middle set of drivers and it runs better! I now suspect that one of the jointed coupling rods is causing the problem.

[Regularity]

If it is sticking every half turn, then it suggests a slight tight spot with the coupling rod centres, or maybe with the quartering. How well does the loco “free wheel” without the motor? Can you put the chassis on the slightest possible slope to get gravity taking effect, and is there any hesitation when you reach that certain point?

Also, does it occur with one set of driving wheels at 12, 3, 6 or 9 o’clock?

[Rowsley17D]

Thanks @Regularity. The wheels stick at 10 to and 20 past. The chassis freewheels well but then all wheels are in contact with the rails. I'm going to remove the front rods sometime and try it as a 0-4-0. The wheels are Romfords so I'm not suspecting the quartering.

[Rowsley17D]

Back to investigating the cause of sticking. I've taken all the rods off and then with just the front set on and turning one set of wheels by hand all is well. With just the two sets of rear wheels coupled, this is where the sticking occurs, twice with each wheel revolution, so the problem lies with the coupling rods. Although the centre of the crank pin holes line up with the axle centres the holes themselves are very oversize. Romford crank pins are 1mm but the hole in the rods are up to 1.5mm, so some bushing is required.

[Regularity]

Aha: some clearance is good, but when it becomes slop, it can cause unexpected problems.

[Rowsley17D]

I think I may have cracked the jerky 2F but time will tell. In a break from trying to get the 2F going, I stuck the first ID Backscenes' "Tall Trees" in place, added some buildings courtesy of @kirtleypete,  which are not in their final place, to see how things looked.

 

 

 

 

 

I cut quite a section off bottom of the sheet to fit my backboards, some of the trees look too high and I may have to add some more cloud cover.

[chuffinghell]

Fantastic, I particularly like the second photo, definitely a candidate for the realistic models thread

[MrWolf]

Me too, the scale perspective and composition of the background is bang on, making the whole look a believable scene. Keep up the more than good work!

[lezz01]

I love the backscene Jonathan.

Back to the 2F. From what you describe it sounds to me that the centers of the rods aren't the same both sides mate. That will definitely cause the wheels to stick in two places in a revolution mate. Could be that the joints aren't the same both sides. Drill 3 holes at 8' and 8'6" centers, thats 32 and 34mm, the same size as the holes in the rods. Put either 3 drills the same size or bits of wire the same size in the holes and see if the rods both fit over the drills at the same time. Also check that the axle centers are also 8' and 8'6". If not make new rods to the correct wheel base. If the axle centers are NOT the right size make the rods to the size of the axle centers. If you don't know how to make coupling rods then either go with a set of Gibson's or I can talk you through it.  

Regards Lez.   

[Rowsley17D]

16 hours ago, lezz01 said:

I love the backscene Jonathan.

Back to the 2F. From what you describe it sounds to me that the centers of the rods aren't the same both sides mate. That will definitely cause the wheels to stick in two places in a revolution mate. Could be that the joints aren't the same both sides. Drill 3 holes at 8' and 8'6" centers, thats 32 and 34mm, the same size as the holes in the rods. Put either 3 drills the same size or bits of wire the same size in the holes and see if the rods both fit over the drills at the same time. Also check that the axle centers are also 8' and 8'6". If not make new rods to the correct wheel base. If the axle centers are NOT the right size make the rods to the size of the axle centers. If you don't know how to make coupling rods then either go with a set of Gibson's or I can talk you through it.  

Regards Lez.   

 

Thanks Lez. The axle centres are bang on and I used dividers to set the holes in the rods. I kept the holes in the powered wheel rods to 1mm and opened out the holes on the centre set by 0.1mm increments. I stopped at 1.5mm then opened out the power wheel ones similarly. Once I got to 1.5mm and still sticking I gave up. I'm going to buy another set.

[Rowsley17D]

In a change from trying to make engines go the extra point levers from Ireland arrived and were installed on the  goods yard sidings' turnouts. Here's the one at the back of the box with a second in the distance.

 

 

Signal box name boards were also fitted. Since the LMS had repainted the box a name board was put on the end as well as the usual Midland position on the front.

 

 

 

The back boards have been removed prior to a coat of gloss.

Edited October 30, 2020 by Rowsley17D

[Rowsley17D]

A couple of days have past without posting but I have not been idle although there has been a lot of cogitating (they cannot touch you for it). The rest of the backboards have been glossed and another section of ID backscene has been put in place. More shop fronts kindly sent by @kirtleypete have been cut out although I am still undecided about what will go where.  The aerial photography unit has been out again taking some shots.

 

 

 

One from a bit near the earth.

[Alister_G]

Love those photos Jonathan, really evocative, and show just how much work you have done.

 

Al.

[BMacdermott]

Hello Jonathan

 

Superb!

 

Brian

[chuffinghell]

Magnificent! 

[JustinDean]

This is great- love it!