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  • RMweb Gold

The brick-built shed office has been completed with rainwater goods, weathering and a roof sign. All the coal businesses depicted here had an office at Buxton Midland coal yard.

 

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For the final office building I see what a wooden boarding single, sloping roof one will look like.

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  • RMweb Gold
10 minutes ago, Graham T said:

You're certainly not hanging about!

 

Being retired has its advantages, Graham.

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  • RMweb Gold

This final shed for the coal office line up has been completed. Clearly Mr Thorpe didn't throw his money around on company buildings. The lads were lucky he installed a stove.

 

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I'll have a play with the order before planting them properly.

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  • RMweb Gold
Posted (edited)

I've never been totally happy (when are we modellers ever are?) with the surface of the shed and coal yard area. It looked far too rough and too dark. @MrWolf's test of can a scale bicycle be ridden over it without injuries in certain areas would not be passed. I mixed up one part each of tarmac flock, fine grey modelling powder, Carr's ash to two parts of sieved coal dust.

 

Here's the result with the coal merchants' offices pressed into the still wet mixture. The old surface can be seen to the left of the coal bins.

 

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And after a bit more to the yard was done.

 

 

 

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Edited by Rowsley17D
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  • RMweb Gold

Now that the glue has hardened over night I went over the new surface with emery cloth to smooth it even further but  don't think it shows in photos.

 

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The old surface is again to the left of the coal bins

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  • RMweb Gold
Posted (edited)

To give a bit of context to the yard surface here it is with the coal lorry. I think it's the contrast between the light and dark materials which make it appear rougher than it is in photos.

 

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Edited by Rowsley17D
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As I model in N I’ve struggled to achieve decent yard cover and no matter what scatter I’ve tried the surface always looks like walking over a shingle beach. 
 

For me the best effect I’ve manage has been using Greenscenes textured paint and for yards I use a mix of 2 or 3 different ones and when dry I sand over to remove any high peaks. If not enough texture then I repeat process until I’m happy. 
 

Brian

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  • RMweb Gold

A few bits and pieces arrived for the coal yard this week.

 

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A conveyor for bulk loading.

 

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Some coal scales.

 

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And a set of steps to aid the loading of bagged coal. There's also a wheel barrow and 1cwt weights in the set.

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  • RMweb Gold

I have a small stash of ModelU figures which I have bought with several orders of point rodding materials to make up the orders. I got to work and spray primed several before using Woodland Scenics' paints. A shunter was the first to be finished. It's a bit of a strain on the eyes even using the two pairs of glasses technique.

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Readers may recall on page 30 that I was having trouble with an 00 Works 2F. I put it to one side as I could not get it to go properly. I went back to it today and found the meshing of 2 cogs was not right. There's one on the gearbox which is turned by the worm. This in turn drives 2 more fitted to the chassis. The gear box was too tight against the chassis cog. Different thicknesses shims of  Plastikard were put between the gearbox and chassis until all ran better. I did contemplate selling it for repair but with a couple more tweaks  it will be joining the stud.

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  • RMweb Gold
Posted (edited)

A porter has now been employed at Derwent and he looks as though he's going to be busy. Painting ModelU figures is about the most strenuous activity I can undertake in this heat - not that I'm complaining @MrWolf :D. I hate to think what that chap has spilt down his trousers.

 

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Edited by Rowsley17D
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  • RMweb Gold

More figures have been painted. The joy of some of ModelU's figures it that they will stand up by themselves which means they can be moved around the layout.

 

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  • RMweb Gold

The secret to moving figures around Jonathan is to drill one leg 0.3mm and fit a bit of wire then all you need to do is decide where you want them and pop in a 0.3mm hole. That way you can make them all stand up where ever you want without relying on the figure to be balanced and because the whole is so small you don't have to worry about it if you move them later.

Regards Lez.

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  • RMweb Gold
23 minutes ago, lezz01 said:

The secret to moving figures around Jonathan is to drill one leg 0.3mm and fit a bit of wire then all you need to do is decide where you want them and pop in a 0.3mm hole. That way you can make them all stand up where ever you want without relying on the figure to be balanced and because the whole is so small you don't have to worry about it if you move them later.

Regards Lez.

 

Hi Lez, one or two do have wire in them but mine is more like 0.45. There's not much meat on some of the figures.

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A small peg in one foot of a figure is a handy means of holding them whilst painting too, which is something that I like with the better white metal examples.

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  • RMweb Gold
40 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

A small peg in one foot of a figure is a handy means of holding them whilst painting too, which is something that I like with the better white metal examples.

 

I stick mine to a piece of foam board using the pad that the figure is printed on. When finished painting, I cut it off the thin printing supports.

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  • RMweb Gold

I would just like to point out that I do not have a fetish for MR/LMS 0-4-4 tank engines.

 

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L to R: Craftsman Belpaire 1P  (eBay bought built-up almost non-runner for less than £100); 2P (CDC Designs body on Hornby M7 chassis); Craftsman Belpaire 1P (built by my good self); Bachmann 1P; Jidenco Kirtley 1P( awaiting High Level Gearbox) and Craftsman Round Top Firebox 1P (in build.)

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  • RMweb Gold

Very nice Jonathan. I'm looking forward to seeing the Kirtley well tank up and running as it's one of my favourite Midland engines.

Regards Lez.  

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