Marly51 Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 (edited) I have just purchased some power connectors from Railway Scenics to provide a quick way of connecting a 9 ft long layout comprising 3 x 3ft long units. This layout needs to be able to be dismantled and reassembled a few times. I also came across an HOn30 modular logging layout by a German modeller Gerd ‘Waldbahner’ http://blog.waldbahner.de/en/2014/06/gleisbau-teil-1/ and he has used plug and socket fixings which join the modules as well as providing the electrical connection between boards. As a relative beginner regarding the electrical side of railway modelling, I would be interested to know about other possible options for any future layouts. The boards (plywood on timber frame) were constructed for me and have bolt connections, which are relatively accurate, but I am choosing to clamp the modules during track laying. Edited February 6, 2018 by Marly51 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 That is a good reusable connector but is only two way so you may well need quite a few for your layout and if they are black and red then you could have issues working out which fits which. I use car wiring multi pin connectors recovered from scrap cars, a friend used Aircraft quality connectors from scrap aircraft, there are at least twenty other options listed elsewhere on this forum. In many ways the German layout is an example of bad practice. The track laid direct on a robust flat ply baseboard which does not allow for any scenery or relief below track level. The wiring is awful. straggling around unsupported. I either run wires in some rectangular trunking which you can pry the lid off to add more wires or if the wiring is really ugly I put a thin ply panel on the bottom of the baseboard to hold it all in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marly51 Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 That is a good reusable connector but is only two way so you may well need quite a few for your layout and if they are black and red then you could have issues working out which fits which. I use car wiring multi pin connectors recovered from scrap cars, a friend used Aircraft quality connectors from scrap aircraft, there are at least twenty other options listed elsewhere on this forum. In many ways the German layout is an example of bad practice. The track laid direct on a robust flat ply baseboard which does not allow for any scenery or relief below track level. The wiring is awful. straggling around unsupported. I either run wires in some rectangular trunking which you can pry the lid off to add more wires or if the wiring is really ugly I put a thin ply panel on the bottom of the baseboard to hold it all in. Thanks for feedback, David. The layout I am working on is quite simple as it is more of an historic scenic diorama. Roughly single track oval with passing loop behind the backscene and passing loop at station to the front of the layout, with a turnout for sidings to goods shed, oil depots and sheep pens confined to the middle board. The location does not require relief below track level, so the flat base board option is suitable in this instance. I appreciate, and take on board, your point about ensuring all wiring is well supported. I did check out other postings re multi pin connectors on the Forum, but admit I need to learn more about model railway electrics and improve my soldering skills. Marlyn Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted February 6, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2018 Are you do or dcc? If dc multi way d connectors are available in numerous configurations. But not man enough for dcc bus wiring Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marly51 Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 Are you do or dcc? If dc multi way d connectors are available in numerous configurations. But not man enough for dcc bus wiring Phil DC for this layout, Phil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 I used some of these, you can chop them up and they can take lots of amps, works well. Can't remember where I bought them though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted February 6, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2018 I used some of these, you can chop them up and they can take lots of amps, works well. Can't remember where I bought them though. box connectors.jpg I'm a skinflint so made my own from strip connectors and bits of scrap brass rod. They only need to come apart when there is a repair (spin the board over) which so far has been once in 3 years for 3 boards out of 8. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejstubbs Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 (edited) I used some of these, you can chop them up and they can take lots of amps, works well. Can't remember where I bought them though. box connectors.jpg Easily found on eBay and elsewhere: search for 'pluggable terminal strip'. I'm a skinflint so made my own from strip connectors and bits of scrap brass rod. The commercial product has sprung connector pins so the strips plug together securely without needing any screws tightening (or loosening, when you want to dismantle the baseboards again). Depends on how often you plan to be assembling and disassembling the layout, I guess. I suspect the sprung pins and/or the holes they plug in to may go slack after a unknown number of insertions/disconnections anyway. If you're going to be connecting and disconnecting a lot then a connector system designed to stand up to that kind of mechanical use would probably be preferable. Edited February 6, 2018 by ejstubbs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Dicky Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Easily found on eBay and elsewhere: search for 'pluggable terminal strip'. The commercial product has sprung connector pins so the strips plug together securely without needing any screws tightening (or loosening, when you want to dismantle the baseboards again). Depends on how often you plan to be assembling and disassembling the layout, I guess. I suspect the sprung pins and/or the holes they plug in to may go slack after a unknown number of insertions/disconnections anyway. If you're going to be connecting and disconnecting a lot then a connector system designed to stand up to that kind of mechanical use would probably be preferable. I can vouch for quality pluggable terminal strips. I used them in a context where they were constantly being plugged and unplugged several times a day however, there is a lot of variety and I did find one cheap brand was not as robust. Again a lot will depend on how often you need to separate them. What I would suggest when using them is to fix one to under the board or on a small piece of ply with enough protrusion on the connecting side for the the other half to slide on and engage with the fixed strip I find doing this helps keep them in place rather than having the strip dangle freely. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted February 6, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2018 Have they got enough grunt for DCC bus wiring? P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brigo Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Have they got enough grunt for DCC bus wiring? P Rapid have them in 3 sizes up to 16 amps, should be enough. https://www.rapidonline.com/camdenboss-pluggable-terminal-strips-63850 Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marly51 Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 Thanks everyone - all feedback very much appreciated. I’ll be posting more about the layout later. Marlyn Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike140 Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 I used some of these, you can chop them up and they can take lots of amps, works well. Can't remember where I bought them though. box connectors.jpg This is what I'll be using. I'm hoping they will also aid with alignment, too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meil Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 This is what I'll be using. I'm hoping they will also aid with alignment, too. I wouldn't do that if I were you. Fix the female half by all means but the male half I would put on a flying lead. If you do attempt to use them both fixed I think you will find that you wont get the boards apart without a great deal of effort. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 I wouldn't do that if I were you. Fix the female half by all means but the male half I would put on a flying lead. If you do attempt to use them both fixed I think you will find that you wont get the boards apart without a great deal of effort. And the longer the block the harder to pull apart!. If you want several connections split the block into pairs and use coloured insulation tapes to code the wires. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff park Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 (edited) One more option is to fix one half to a small piece of plywood and screw to the board. The other half you fix to a piece of plywood, BUT attach it to the other board with slots in the ply so you can slide the two halves apart, but they stay more or less where they are. You need ply under each half so that they have the same standoff from the baseboard. Edited February 7, 2018 by cliff park 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Dicky Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 Rapid have them in 3 sizes up to 16 amps, should be enough. https://www.rapidonline.com/camdenboss-pluggable-terminal-strips-63850 Brian It was the Rapid ones that I mainly used and found quite robust. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardEyre Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 Have they got enough grunt for DCC bus wiring? A given loco does not draw more current over DCC than DC. The only factors are load and motor type. Current draw for stationary locos is so small that it's not worth considering. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 I use XLR 3 pin inline connectors Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidB-AU Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 Personally I would recommend Anderson Powerpoles. For model railway use the 15 amp contacts are more than sufficient for DC or DCC. The actual connectors and contacts are relatively inexpensive (you can see some indicative pricing here but shop around online and look for bulk packs). You really need a genuine Anderson crimping tool (~£30) to make best use of them. You can solder the connectors, but they are silver plated and soldering flux can affect the plating. In any case a properly crimped connector is electrically and mechanically stronger than soldering.CheersDavid Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Personally I would recommend Anderson Powerpoles. For model railway use the 15 amp contacts are more than sufficient for DC or DCC. The actual connectors and contacts are relatively inexpensive (you can see some indicative pricing here but shop around online and look for bulk packs). You really need a genuine Anderson crimping tool (~£30) to make best use of them. You can solder the connectors, but they are silver plated and soldering flux can affect the plating. In any case a properly crimped connector is electrically and mechanically stronger than soldering. Cheers David The trouble with Powerpoles is if you have more then a single pair , you cannot prevent cross connections Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 A given loco does not draw more current over DCC than DC. The only factors are load and motor type. Current draw for stationary locos is so small that it's not worth considering. The difference is you could be drawing many times the current of one DC motor on DCC if several light and sound equipped DCC vehicles are fed from one wire. DC usually trips at around 1 amp, DCC can be well over 4 amps and in my personal experience of running triple headed US style freights on DC using two 1 amp controllers in parallel those 2 amps will make fishplates glow red hot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 The trouble with Powerpoles is if you have more then a single pair , you cannot prevent cross connections I thought the dovetailing on the connectors allowed you to construct a multiple connector block to prevent that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardEyre Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 The difference is you could be drawing many times the current of one DC motor on DCC if several light and sound equipped DCC vehicles are fed from one wire. We're not really comparing apples and apples there. My point was that the same layout has almost identical power requirements in either DC or DCC. The power for the chips, lights and sound for stationary locos is almost negligible. Yes a long train triple heading will need a lot of power. But it will need it in DC too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidB-AU Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 The trouble with Powerpoles is if you have more then a single pair , you cannot prevent cross connections Yes you can. Powerpoles come in many colours and slot together in stacks so you can't connect them the wrong way. Some examples: http://www.trainweb.org/freemoslo/Modules/Tips-and-Techniques/images/Power-Pole-3-LG.jpg https://i.pinimg.com/236x/9e/a6/97/9ea697303a4825b57c2f4152a8a8cc18--ham-radio.jpg Cheers David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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