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Options for connecting power across baseboards


Marly51
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Yes you can. Powerpoles come in many colours and slot together in stacks so you can't connect them the wrong way. Some examples:

 

http://www.trainweb.org/freemoslo/Modules/Tips-and-Techniques/images/Power-Pole-3-LG.jpg

https://i.pinimg.com/236x/9e/a6/97/9ea697303a4825b57c2f4152a8a8cc18--ham-radio.jpg

 

Cheers

David

 

I stand corrected , having examined a set I had in my toolbox for some time now !, memory is a terrible thing 

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I use something like these for track power https://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=standard_093&channel=products&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction&parentKey=wire_to_wire_connectors (I'm using DCC). I use the twelve way versions for six busses around the layout (5 power districts and 1 pair for a reversing section) 

 

For low current connections (signal lights, point control relay feeds, track circuit inputs) I use 37pin D connectors https://www.rapidonline.com/truconnect-37-way-solder-lug-plug-15-0515

 

Andi

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I have just purchased some power connectors from Railway Scenics to provide a quick way of connecting a 9 ft long layout comprising 3 x 3ft long units. This layout needs to be able to be dismantled and reassembled a few times. I also came across an HOn30 modular logging layout by a German modeller Gerd ‘Waldbahner’ http://blog.waldbahner.de/en/2014/06/gleisbau-teil-1/ and he has used plug and socket fixings which join the modules as well as providing the electrical connection between boards. As a relative beginner regarding the electrical side of railway modelling, I would be interested to know about other possible options for any future layouts. The boards (plywood on timber frame) were constructed for me and have bolt connections, which are relatively accurate, but I am choosing to clamp the modules during track laying.

 

attachicon.gif5D501B40-1959-4B92-81BB-E4F496F283C0.jpeg

 

I run Railwayscenics and these products were something that I was asked to create for a customer so he could easily disconnect and reconnect his DCC power bus wires when lifting out a section of his layout that crossed a doorway, and also a hinged section that allowed access to a cupboard in the room. The connector sets in the picture are available in any combination of the 11 different colours of wire that we sell, so not only in red and black and also in 24/0.2 and 32/0.2 depending on your power bus size. He also bought a selection of the other mate-n-lock style connector kits that we sell for the other wires to the accessories on his layout. These connectors have a lower power rating and are available in 2 way up to 15 way versions and are similar to the molex style connectors mentioned..

 

One of the advantages over the other type of pluggable connectors discussed here, is that the wire connections dont rely on a screw to tighten them, and they are harder to rip the wires out as you are pulling on the connector and not the wires. I will say that there are many different connectors available and people have their own personal preference and most of those ways work, so its good to see a discussion on what others feel is the best way, not necessarily the cheapest way, to cross base board joins with wires. I personally use D sub connectors for the lower current wiring as they are so easy to use and are inexpensive to buy, but thats my choice.

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Thanks to everyone who has contributed their techniques to this thread - it has all been very helpful - I’m slowly getting to grips with Model Railway electrics - much appreciated. Thanks Railway Scenics for your explanation as well - your online shop has also been handy for a number of other railway related items as well.

 

Marlyn

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Being a cheap skate I bought an extender cable for the lead between a computer power supply and a motherboard. Twenty four cables that all look nice and thick with different colour coded cables and the plug and socket are keyed so they only go together one way. Cut the cable in half attach the plug to one board and the socket to the other, solder or otherwise join your layout cables to the cut cable ends of the lead job done.

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Just come across these. They are available in 3 & 5 way, are mains rated although no detail on amperage. They are used to make changing zone valves in domestic heating systems plug and play. Those systems usually have a 3A fuse so they should be good enough for that at least. The connectors can be found cheaper on EBay.

 

Richard

 

https://www.plumbase.co.uk/5-way-connector-block-rege105-100007735-3530924

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Just come across these. They are available in 3 & 5 way, are mains rated although no detail on amperage. They are used to make changing zone valves in domestic heating systems plug and play. Those systems usually have a 3A fuse so they should be good enough for that at least. The connectors can be found cheaper on EBay.

Richard

https://www.plumbase.co.uk/5-way-connector-block-rege105-100007735-3530924

Pricey at 10 quid a pop

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