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Bachmann Stanier Mogul running issues


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Good morning,

I purchased what I thought was a new Bachmann Stanier Mogul from Ebay about 6 months ago and just got around to testing it. I tried fitting the decoder first, without testing on DC (lesson learnt). I also removed the capacitor as recommended. The loco wouldn't respond when trying to set the address. I removed the decoder and tried another one. Again, same thing. So, i removed the decoder, replaced the capacitor, put in the blanking plate and tested it on DC. Nothing. I tried other DCC and Non-DCC loco's and all worked fine so I know its not the track, DCC system or controllers. 

 

Is there something I need to do to get it to work on DC and/or DCC or does it need to go to someone who can diagnose a fault properly? I am assuming it will need to go back to Bachmann at my own cost. Any idea of turnaround times?

 

Thanks

Ian

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Tricky one.Have you checked the continuity of the wires between the loco and tender. Not just the physical condition but whether they are properly connecting through to

a: right and left pickups to the decoder socket and

b: motor wires from the decoder socket to the motor brushes.

You could try connecting dc wires directly to the motor brushes - ensuring that you have removed the decoder first otherwise the smoke may escape from it. This will prove of otherwise that the motor is working.

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Cheers for the promt Rexashton. I ran a few continuity tests and bypassed the circuit board and motor ran fine. So, i removed all of the circuitry gubbins from the tender and hardwired my dcc chip using the 8 pin harness and utilising the tender to motor 4 pin connector. Problem solved!!!! Ian

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Cheers for the promt Rexashton. I ran a few continuity tests and bypassed the circuit board and motor ran fine. So, i removed all of the circuitry gubbins from the tender and hardwired my dcc chip using the 8 pin harness and utilising the tender to motor 4 pin connector. Problem solved!!!! Ian

Glad to hear you've solved the prob. Could have been just a dry joint on the board. It's also worth removing the suppressor capacitors that are soldered to the motor and brushes as the decoder will have its own built in and turning dc off in cv29 unless you're likely to run the loco on a dc layout. Both are likely to improve running. I usually set cv29 to 34 or if the loco then runs the wrong way 35.

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It runs lovely now I removed the circuit board. I will take a look at the CV-29 and make sure its set correctly - handy to know if I want to change direction - never realised that!!. I assume the supressor capacitor is the orangy coloured blob soldered between the motor terminals?

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  • 3 months later...

Attached video is of my recently arrived flatboard crab, straight from the box. This is not how it should sound, itherwise seems to run ok. I'v contacted the supplier, but no reply as yet. Any ideas what the clicking might be, and how I might fix it? Thanks

John D

Ah; looks like I'm not permitted to upload a video file. So there's not much for anyone to respond to. Sorry

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