sb67 Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 (edited) I want to start weathering this brake van and I'm not sure where to start. I was hoping to fade the paintwork, should I do this before adding any washes to the sides or put the washes on first? I'm also not sure how to fade it, I was going to drybrush a lighter shade of grey over the darker colour. Steve. Edited April 16, 2018 by sb67 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 I've always used an airbrush with acrylics Steve. I start by spraying an earth or dirt colour on the underframe and lower parts of the vehicle. Next a broad stripe on the roof to simulate the ash and soot residue. I put a light waft on the body and ends. I follow up with black, overspraying the underframe, roof and body. This tones down the earth. After that, I use powders (umber, black and rust) to put streaks at strategic points where water will run down the van. Like this extremely cruel close up: Weathering is very subjective so I expect you'll hear from others with differing views. John 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 Thanks for the picture Brossard, that looks fine to me. Steve. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted March 7, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2018 I use a very thin wash of white to fade paintwork. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Right Away Posted March 7, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2018 In addition to the above advice, I would definitely check photographs of the prototype of your chosen model if possible. It's so easy to overdo weathering without reference material. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 I would check a prototype but I'm having trouble locating a decent picture of an unfitted brake van if I'm honest. I've got some pics of what I think are good models to reference but the grey of the Bachmann brake van seems way too dark. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 I agree with RA. I would say that finding good quality colour pictures from the 60s and earlier is very difficult. I find Paul Bartlett's collection very useful: http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/paulbartlettsrailwaywagons, even though the pictures were taken in the 80s. It is very easy to overdo and I've had to do things over from time to time . The nice thing about acrylic paint is that it can be mostly removed with IPA. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 Thanks for that link John, that's a fantastic site, I'll have a look through that, I'm sure I'll find something. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted March 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 8, 2018 I use Humbrol powders. Here's a couple of mine. Rob. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted March 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 8, 2018 Weathering can make all the difference... Gets rid of plastic appearance too! My approach is similar but without air brush... Remove wheels, paint with mix of Humbrol leather and dirty black. Thin wash of black and roof dirt mixture on roof.... Brush side to side l, lose appearance of strokes as much as possible. Then wash of dirty black all over sides....brings out moulded detail, adds dirt...underrate weathered with powders suspended in decal fix, mix of earth brown and black plus lighter browns for rust. Replace wheels and add detail weathering...I use umber oil paint for rust, streaked with white spirit. Distressing can be added with fibreglass pen. Pretty quick techniques... Rapid drying, see layout videos on signature link below to judge effectiveness... There are also some airbrush weathered wagons on there too, usually oversprayed and excess removed with cotton buds Good fun! Phil 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted March 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 8, 2018 I agree with Phil regarding the fibre glass pen. It will add texture to the planks and you can vary colours depending on how much paint is removed. Here are z couple more wagons. No paint or washes, just powders sealed with varnish. Experiment on older wagons first. Rob. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 Thanks guys, Rob are they all just powder, the close ups look fantastic, did you go over the whole wagon with a glass fibre pen then add the powders? Phil, I've looked at some of your videos and the weathering looks very realistic I'll definitely have a go with a fibreglass pen. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted March 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 8, 2018 (edited) Here you go Steve. I apply Humbrol powders then once happy, I seal them with a LIGHT pass of Humbrol Matt acrylic varnish. Too much and it be too wet. This will lose the variations in colour. Apply Iron oxide for rust then shade using smoke and black with a bit of dark earth here and there. I then remove the powders with the GF pen. Rob. Edited March 8, 2018 by NHY 581 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Risdale93 Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Just a slightly off topic question; If you have built a wagon from a kit and have painted it, glossed it and put on the transfers. would you put matt varnish on first and then weather or the other way around? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 Thanks Rob, perfect. Just a slightly off topic question; If you have built a wagon from a kit and have painted it, glossed it and put on the transfers. would you put matt varnish on first and then weather or the other way around? I'm nowhere near an expert but I'd put the varnish on first so as to protect the original finish. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
YesTor Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 (edited) Some of my own early efforts with weathering. Nothing fancy, just really getting the hang of using an airbrush on a few bits of cheap, scrap stock where the main aim was to keep things subtle without overdoing it. More practice required but I think I'm fairly pleased so far... Edited March 8, 2018 by YesTor 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 Some of my own early efforts with weathering. Nothing fancy, just really getting the hang of using an airbrush on a few bits of cheap, scrap stock where the main aim was to keep things subtle without overdoing it. More practice required but I think I'm fairly pleased so far... P1130035A.JPG P1130084A.JPG P1130075A.JPG P1120319.JPG They all look great, will you add any washes or powders etc? Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Risdale93 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Thanks Rob, perfect. I'm nowhere near an expert but I'd put the varnish on first so as to protect the original finish. Steve Cheers mate, clears that one up for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
YesTor Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 (edited) They all look great, will you add any washes or powders etc? Steve. Thanks! As I say, I'm no expert as these are literally among the first items I have weathered, but the main thing I have observed from looking at many examples of other modellers' weathering - and indeed my own experiments in the distant past - is that it's very, very easy to overdo it. Anyway, for the wagon sides, the above were done in two light applications, both airbrushed, with some very light streaking after the first application - using a rough old brush lightly moistened in thinners. The second coat with the airbrush then seemed to be successful in toning down some of the streaking just enough so as not to look overdone. Well, at least that was my mindset at the time anyway! The rooftops on the two "NE" ventilated vans were in fact heavily streaked to begin with using heavily-thinned enamel. When dry these were then airbrushed over with a further two light coats until I felt the effect was enough. So in answer to your question, no, I'm not going to add any further washes to these particular wagons. However, I do intend to experiment further with other pieces with different degrees of washing, different layer order etc etc, and see how things turn out. Either way, I'm already feeling that the old philosophy of "two light coats are better than one heavy coat" will pay dividends. Overall I guess it's all about experimenting and having a bit of fun. It also feels good to try on old bits of stock as it doesn't matter if you make a mess. Edited March 10, 2018 by YesTor 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 I've been experimenting with Tamiyas Panel Lining: http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87131_133panel_accent/index.htm . It's essentially an enamel wash. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted March 10, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 10, 2018 Just a slightly off topic question; If you have built a wagon from a kit and have painted it, glossed it and put on the transfers. would you put matt varnish on first and then weather or the other way around? The rolls Royce solution is gloss varnish...then transfers...then another coat of gloss varnish....then satin or matt to suit your tastes. That way you will have no visible transfer film. We do that on all our locos - haven't been quite so nit picky on all our wagons Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 I agree Phil. my process is to spray with Testors Glosscote, apply transfers and let them dry for a couple of hours. I put on some Microset before the transfers and again after they're on . I generally use Microsol as a final touch. Once everything is dry, a coat of your chosen finish varnish will complete. All this, by the way, is before glazing. You do get a cracking finish. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 Started weathering, I've just given it a light cover of light grey, more drybrushing than painting. I aimed to just get a look of faded paintwork. I'm away next week so wont get any more done for a bit. Next up I will give the underframe some attention and the body a wash of dark and dirty grey. One question, what colour would the platform bits be at the end? Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Dyson (onslaught832) Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 29062933_10216608843640498_1004597639422935040_n.jpg Started weathering, I've just given it a light cover of light grey, more drybrushing than painting. I aimed to just get a look of faded paintwork. I'm away next week so wont get any more done for a bit. Next up I will give the underframe some attention and the body a wash of dark and dirty grey. One question, what colour would the platform bits be at the end? Steve. You need to get the dirt into the gaps between the planks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Dyson (onslaught832) Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Here's one of mine with dirt worked into the plank gaps & the metal framework of the van 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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