doilum Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 The big G clamps are a massive heat sink. Try insulating them with bits of lolly stick. Double sided tape makes for less juggling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted March 19, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2018 The originals were 3' so 12mm with 10 spoke. There aren't any produced in 4mm which are really accurate so whichever you choose is a compromise. I plumped for the Gibson but Markits do produce a 12mm Andrew Barclay wheel if I have trouble quartering them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium AdeMoore Posted March 19, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 19, 2018 Got the chassis rolling not sure it’s loose enough though, that’s a fair push in the video to roll it that far. Thoughts you marvellous followers? 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Getting very close. When it will manage another foot it will probably do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 On second view, it is slowing on the curve. Is this just flange friction? If so, you are there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium AdeMoore Posted March 19, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 19, 2018 On second view, it is slowing on the curve. Is this just flange friction? If so, you are there.Hi doilum well there is a bit of movement on the flanges not loads though. I guess it does tighten up a bit on the curve.Cheers for the input. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted March 19, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2018 That bolt's a bit small for a boiler............ 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedGemAlchemist Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 (edited) Got the chassis rolling not sure it’s loose enough though, that’s a fair push in the video to roll it that far. Thoughts you marvellous followers? Looking great. I've always loved this little engine. As a fellow beginner (on a general level rather than just scratchbuilding), I say keep up the good work! Edited March 19, 2018 by RedGemAlchemist Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium AdeMoore Posted March 19, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 19, 2018 So lead up to the video I posted was filing hornblocks thinner and my Heath Robinson holder to do it! Had enough of the chassis so moved on to connecting rods, I thought the brass to flimsy Laurie recommending mild steel I hunted out what I had to hand, ah a cut nail! That’ll do it. Blimey those crankpins are blumin tiny! One bush successfully drilled in. They don’t want to wind into the threaded hole in the wheels all the way, ideas anyone? Measured the wheel/crankpin centres made it 24.5mm not 24mm so pushed out the hole to suit that, then found on the model that was to much! Time to cut another ho hum! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNJ Posted March 23, 2018 Share Posted March 23, 2018 So lead up to the video I posted was filing hornblocks thinner and my Heath Robinson holder to do it! 21246CB3-803E-45CD-B46C-87146AE31D0E.jpeg0F779603-0C10-443A-A09C-F54AAF52E6D4.jpeg37C4AE26-22C7-4939-91A2-FB71015412DA.jpeg Had enough of the chassis so moved on to connecting rods, I thought the brass to flimsy Laurie recommending mild steel I hunted out what I had to hand, ah a cut nail! That’ll do it. 947C622E-D0DD-4A9A-9BAD-2E5EE15F240C.jpegF255FD05-C65A-4EE6-8A06-F89DA72ABD74.jpeg Blimey those crankpins are blumin tiny! One bush successfully drilled in. They don’t want to wind into the threaded hole in the wheels all the way, ideas anyone? 5949F896-8B29-4294-8D56-158A75235029.jpeg37A7C07B-3D4A-47F3-8504-0910F2AFEFAE.jpeg12FDF011-0F17-42B3-A6AF-9B8C3EC33C65.jpeg Measured the wheel/crankpin centres made it 24.5mm not 24mm so pushed out the hole to suit that, then found on the model that was to much! Time to cut another ho hum!5950F874-1277-4FB6-9C56-46940D70A50A.jpeg You need to counterbore the threaded holes for the crankpins slightly as some of the crankpins are not fully threaded. Keep up the good work Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium AdeMoore Posted March 23, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 23, 2018 You need to counterbore the threaded holes for the crankpins slightly as some of the crankpins are not fully threaded. Keep up the good work Mark Cheers Mark for the advice I’ll have a look at that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium AdeMoore Posted March 27, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 27, 2018 (edited) Not a lot to report just working on the connecting rods. So slotted another cut nail Drilled one hole the bubble is a guide to upright with the multi tool being used free hand! Decided this time to ignore the rule and use the axle as a marker with one hole drilled as the guide. 2nd hole and bushes tried. Looking good, thanks to Mark for the tip about drilling out the crankpin holes that worked. Then shaping with the multi tool didn’t get to finish it, started feeling a little under par. Lastly after a bit of advice do the crankpin brass bearings go flange to wheel or flange to outside nut side? If latter I guess I need a washer between wheel and rod? Edit to add forgotten name. Edited March 27, 2018 by AdeMoore 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted March 27, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 27, 2018 I started on the motion tonight and thought mine was fiddly! I'm trying laminations but they're really small so no idea how they'll turn out. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 Not a lot to report just working on the connecting rods. So slotted another cut nail 64137653-D97F-4F78-9808-10943A110F8A.jpeg Drilled one hole the bubble is a guide to upright with the multi tool being used free hand! 0D66D8A6-EEBD-4B82-BBF1-3DCE7A20CB26.jpeg Decided this time to ignore the rule and use the axle as a marker with one hole drilled as the guide. 0E99F7F4-C411-4330-AD92-FF3BF3C4F4AB.jpeg08DC7D09-91B2-4F27-8041-5737B739A898.jpeg 2nd hole and bushes tried. C1213D26-9D11-4EC1-B583-72A6A0FCA4E7.jpeg 88C999AA-58E4-43F7-A5D7-73AE926F6190.jpeg Looking good, thanks to Mark for the tip about drilling out the crankpin holes that worked. 559698B4-AF5A-462C-B104-C9D391CC9EB9.jpeg Then shaping with the multi tool didn’t get to finish it, started feeling a little under par. 2EA1F298-8BF5-40F0-88A0-679E781835D1.jpeg84052481-D2B9-4F9B-BA1B-AA33EA1A450E.jpeg Lastly after a bit of advice do the crankpin brass bearings go flange to wheel or flange to outside nut side? If latter I guess I need a washer between wheel and rod? Edit to add forgotten name. Now you know why I do the couupling rods first! I was given the advice many years ago by an old modeller who was trying to sort out the mess I had got into. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium AdeMoore Posted April 1, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 1, 2018 Now you know why I do the couupling rods first! I was given the advice many years ago by an old modeller who was trying to sort out the mess I had got into. For the benefit of others contemplating scratch building, start with the coupling rods. Or, make a coupling rod template from scrap brass or nickel silver. Scribe a centre line and drill 1mm hole at each axle centre. File the front of the template to a point. Use the template to mark out the frames and the rods. Keep the template to make the sister loco. Doilum coming back to your earlier comment, I can’t picture this template I.e. file the front of the template to s point? I feel this method could of saved me some time if I could get my head round it! Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium AdeMoore Posted April 5, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 5, 2018 I’ll ask again in hope, “Lastly after a bit of advice do the crankpin brass bearings go flange to wheel or flange to outside nut side? If latter I guess I need a washer between wheel and rod?” Nothing much again to report, Still recovering really from the pneumonia and a 2nd chest infection I had, but that was 2 weeks ago and this week I’ve headed back to work just mornings for 2 weeks to ease me into it, after 5 weeks off it’s a little strange but nice to get a routine again. So this evening finished multi tool cutting the rods out drilled 2nd set of crankpin holes out in the other two wheels, did a basic clean up quartered and fitted wheels and tried the rods without the bushes first, it ran free I’m a happy chap. Sum what bulky so thining down now will be the order of the day with a hand file. Made a start if you can tell, and yes that hole is a little off centre and close to the edge but it’s staying! That was it for this evening. Check Dave’s Sandy thread referred to earlier in this thread for how it should be done and a mighty fine job he’s making of his version. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 Doilum coming back to your earlier comment, I can’t picture this template I.e. file the front of the template to s point? I feel this method could of saved me some time if I could get my head round it! Cheers Sorry for the poor tablet image.You should just make out the scribed centre line. The pointed end is the front wheel. It doesn't matter on a four coupled locomotive. This one is a 16" Hunslet. I now have two. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted April 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 5, 2018 You've got wheels......I'm jealous... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium AdeMoore Posted April 6, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 6, 2018 Sorry for the poor tablet image. You should just make out the scribed centre line. The pointed end is the front wheel. It doesn't matter on a four coupled locomotive. This one is a 16" Hunslet. I now have two. Doilum thanks for the reply, I get it now I was thinking the point was for scribing the position of the axles on the frames and rods not just indicating the front end. The holes on the centre line are what you use for marking, if I have it right.Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 Doilum thanks for the reply, I get it now I was thinking the point was for scribing the position of the axles on the frames and rods not just indicating the front end. The holes on the centre line are what you use for marking, if I have it right. Cheers All the work is done with a pinvice and 1mm drill. Scribe the line on frames to level the wheel centres. Place on a scrap of soft timber and drill the first hole. Push a spare or broken drill through this hole into the timber. Place template over this drill. Line up the template holes over your scribed line. Drill the far hole and pin it with another broken drill. Drill centre hole. Repeat the technique to create coupling rods. At the risk of inviting contrary comment, I then place this as yet unshaped frame onto its counterpart, line up carefully and clamp firmly. I drill 1mm holes in the diagonal corners to aid subsequent realignment, and then drill the pilot holes through from the first frame to the other. Once these have been carefully enlarged to the axle bush size, put one wheel on an axle and use it to scrible the outer rim onto the frame. You can now locate brake hangers and plunger pickup holes. If you have some of the brass screw type frame spacers you can test this as a rolling chassis before committing time to carefully shaping the frame profile. I choose to use 1mm drills as this is the smallest size to be robust and easily available from local hardware shops. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 The easiest way is to solder the frames and coupling rod material together for marking out. And drill through the coupling rods and frames at the same time. then you know all the holes line up and you only drill once. Then you can shape the frames and coupling rods after unsoldering them from the frames. Or make the coupling rods first and use them as a jig to drill the main frames , not quite so accurate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 The easiest way is to solder the frames and coupling rod material together for marking out. And drill through the coupling rods and frames at the same time. then you know all the holes line up and you only drill once. Then you can shape the frames and coupling rods after unsoldering them from the frames. Or make the coupling rods first and use them as a jig to drill the main frames , not quite so accurate. The easiest way is to solder the frames and coupling rod material together for marking out. And drill through the coupling rods and frames at the same time. then you know all the holes line up and you only drill once. Then you can shape the frames and coupling rods after unsoldering them from the frames. Or make the coupling rods first and use them as a jig to drill the main frames , not quite so accurate. Which is what led me to the template. Once the coupling rod holes have been opened up they have lost that precision. Many years ago, I invested in John Ahern's classic book and soldered frames together before drilling. I still have the twisted wreckage. It took thirty years to gather the confidence to return to scratch building frames. Each has to find their own preferred method by absorbing other people's ideas. My scratch building tally stands at five chassis, including two pairs of same class locomotives. One refinement is to leave the frame blanks over length, drill 1mm location holes in the diagonal corners and then drill a 4mm hole close to each end. The frames can then be fastened down with a small wood screw. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rope runner Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 (edited) Is there enough clearance thus far behind the cylinder crosshead on this tiny prototype? Worth considering now while you are assembling the coupling rods. I would suggest that the thickness of those rods will give you problems later on, especially once you put the retaining bushes on the forward crank pins. Paul A. Edited April 6, 2018 by 1whitemoor Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 Is there enough clearance thus far behind the cylinder crosshead on this tiny prototype? Worth considering now while you are assembling the coupling rods. I would suggest that the thickness of those rods will give you problems later on, especially once you put the retaining bushes on the forward crank pins. Paul A. Not quite prototype, but you can file the end of rod so that the bush is flush. This was the only way to get 82004 to work, and that is in 7mm! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium AdeMoore Posted April 6, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 6, 2018 Is there enough clearance thus far behind the cylinder crosshead on this tiny prototype? Worth considering now while you are assembling the coupling rods. I would suggest that the thickness of those rods will give you problems later on, especially once you put the retaining bushes on the forward crank pins. Paul A. Cheers Paul but you probably missed the captions on the photos “Sum what bulky so thining down now will be the order of the day with a hand file”. Crosshead clearance I’ll hope so, Dave on his thread seems to have most things covered for me to follow or bodge till it fits! Daves thread here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/57208-sandy-gn-lnwr-or-bre/page-27 If you go back a bit you will see a plastikard mock up Dave built checking fit etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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