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Wantage Tramway No.5 "Jane" or 'Shannon' from the Sandy & Potton Tramway (1850).


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Just back off holiday from sunny Cornwall, yes more Southern exploration by bike! To find a lovely package from the ever generous Dave (Chris P Bacon)  mentioned above.

 Cheers Dave I’ll line em up first see what’s what, because I already spread the cylinders by 4 or 5mm from memory from the 7mm down scale template.

See what we can come up with ta again.

 

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More soon (I hope).

 Cheers 

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3 hours ago, chris p bacon said:

 

 

:O......This means you're going P4 mylad....

Ah but given my awful modelling skills! I fear another 0.5mm to 1mm will

be required yet!

How slim can I file those front crankpin nuts 0.5mm?  Currently a little over 1mm. Then the dress makers pins I’ve thought about dremeling them down to a minimum but think that will end in disaster.

Current disaster is taking the forks of the crossheads back to give the clearance. Ended with no meat to hold the rod in the crosshead so drilled it in to the laminations! Queue more falling apart so didn’t fancy soldering up solid as the connecting rods are in situ. Out came the epoxy resin I’ll see if that’s a success tonight.

Thanks Dave for the support 

until next time 

cheers

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5 hours ago, AdeMoore said:

How slim can I file those front crankpin nuts 0.5mm?  Currently a little over 1mm. Then the dress makers pins I’ve thought about dremeling them down to a minimum but think that will end in disaster.

 

I did something a little different. For the front crankpin I used Gibson which are a countersunk screw, I turned them around so the screw head is countersunk into the outer rod and the nut is in the back of the wheel. To do that I drilled a hole just ever so slightly smaller than the nut and gently pressed it in. This gave the maximum space between the rods and the crosshead, which is the sum of sweet FA.

 

Just keep saying the mantra......it's all good fun......it's all good fun....through gritted teeth. :D

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So tried to do a bit today. First off gave her a big clean in soda crystals and while the chassis was apart fitted the final gear from the gearbox kit.

Putting it back together it was tying up a bit so I dragged out a board to rest it on. Same as before the Jinty was set to shunt it. Got in mainly sorted need a guide soldered in on one of the hornblocks,

Then try the crosshead assembly, definitely got to go wider! But I do have an old hole from an earlier mistake! 

A big hole next to the P4! Cylinder hole I’ll give it a try it kind of worked. So make a new cylinder tube there I reckon it will work. Awful wide but hey next time I’ll try a kit! Video evidence.

 

 

Until next time 

Cheers 

 

 

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I’m back!

Just  a 15 month break! and not a lot to show for the break, Meldon has got to be operational but scenics need starting.

So decided to leave the motion, I actually now see Dave did not start there relooking at his thread he got the superstructure done and I think it running before dropping down below the footplate and motion.

I’m doing that now getting it running I hope! Then see if I can get the motion done.

Next job for me was to cut out and file up the footplate


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Next up file up some of Dave’s etches he kindly sent me.

Couldn't resist a mock up!

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More later.... tea 

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Someone earlier in the thread can’t find it now was interested in my attempt to roll a boiler this small, well I can confirm success! I read a bit on it on here and a steel rod on the back of a mouse mat pressing real hard was what I read. But that didn’t cut it, so I had some foam I just kept adding it until I had enough of a pile to make it work.

a stair rod cut off was the first tool then a screwdriver handle finished it off.

 

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will need to solder up but I’ll get further first.

Cut a roof! Laugh is Dave gave me a roof in his etch I now see and I used it to cut crossheads I had no clue!

 

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More soon

Until next time.

Cheers

A69DA61C-5DCE-4F0C-AB9F-368A2B64A070.jpeg

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Rolling the barrel was probably a lot easier than trying to file out a tube.

 

A tip is to find the thinnest wire you've got to power the motor if you're running it back alongside the motor,  too thick and it won't fit........ask me how I know....:rolleyes:

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Guest Isambarduk
9 hours ago, chris p bacon said:

A tip is to find the thinnest wire you've got to power the motor

I always use wire from an old transformer or coil, which is insultated with enamel and need be no thicker than the wire in the armature in the motor - ie not very thick at all! 

 

As it is a single strand, it is easy to straighten (one end in the vice, grab the other end with pliers and pull gently until it 'gives') and so it makes very tidy runs of wire to the pick-ups as well.

 

It has always puzzled me that locos are often wired up with such stiff, heavy, plastic-insulated wires.

 

David

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Some more done today.

Setting out the shape of the smoke box isn’t a 2 second job. Thought I’d be able to drill the holes by moving up in drill sizes!

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Well it turns out you can but watching a video afterwards once the point is through turn it over and come back from the other side.

It did spur me on to accept @Jon4470 advice pages back and many others and bought a piercing saw!

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so drew it out again.

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Drilled from both sides.

then cut out the holes and filed them to fit.

 

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Got a smokebox door on order to speed the plough.

fold it up and solder next wish me luck.

Just think how long it took Dave to draw his and get etched half the time I dare say.

until next time

Cheers

Ade

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