Corbs & Chris' Clinic - Taking Stock

[Corbs]

Yes perhaps should speak to him.

 

MAINMANN ROYAL SCOT

 

As mentioned above, I bought an original condition Bachmann 'Royal Scot' with no tender to re-chassis the Royal Scot, but when I tried the Mainline 'Scot' chassis under the Bachmann body, it ran fine, so I decided to give it another chance.

 

Tried out some glue 'n glaze and it adhered rather well.

 

 

To make the tender, I used the chassis from the Jubilee I got in the same bundle and married it to a GBL tender body.

 

The moulded coal load was quite low, so I used cyano to add some real coal.

 

There is a slight colour mismatch between the loco and tender so I opted to try weathering to blend them a bit. The tender chassis was sprayed satin black.

 

Both loco and tender had a coat of dullcote (I masked off the side windows first).

As before, I used 'smoke' powder to simulate soot around the loco, and coal dust around the tender top, and 'dark earth' to look like muck down the sides and on the tender frames.

The tender handrails were coloured black with a pen again.

 

Needs a vac pipe but makes a good stablemate for Royal Scot. Now what to do with the scrap Jubilee....

 

Edited March 29, 2018 by Corbs

[Corbs]

If you were ever wondering what the loudest noise is, it's me trying to drill a broken drill bit out of an airfix prairie chassis.

 

Got the holes done at last and was able to secure the little Hornby motor in.

 

It's secured in now. The Airfix wheelset is rather unconcentric and battered, so I'd much rather use the Hornby one but can't find rods and motion available to buy anywhere.

 

 

But at least it works!

Edited March 24, 2018 by Corbs

[FPH 603]

If you were ever wondering what the loudest noise is, it's me trying to drill a broken drill bit out of an airfix prairie chassis.

 

Got the holes done at last and was able to secure the little Hornby motor in.

IMG_5693.JPG

 

It's secured in now. The Airfix wheelset is rather unconcentric and battered, so I'd much rather use the Hornby one but can't find rods and motion available to buy anywhere.

 

Screen Shot 2018-03-24 at 00.00.34.png

 

But at least it works!

I thought the loudest noise was my dad's Mazda rotary with an open exhaust...

[BernardTPM]

The Airfix wheelset is rather unconcentric and battered, so I'd much rather use the Hornby one but can't find rods and motion available to buy anywhere.

I remember when these came out I bought one at my local model shop and it was very wobbly. I took it back and we went through about four models before finding one that ran true.

[RedGemAlchemist]

I remember when these came out I bought one at my local model shop and it was very wobbly. I took it back and we went through about four models before finding one that ran true.

Yeah. Judging from stories I've heard this sort of issue was quite common. Sadly (or perhaps fortunately) I never experienced this. Think Airfix had been bought out by Hornby by the time I started.

Edited March 24, 2018 by RedGemAlchemist

[Corbs]

I thought the loudest noise was my dad's Mazda rotary with an open exhaust...

I think the official order is:

 

1: Me drilling a broken drill bit out of an airfix prairie chassis

2: A standard airfix prairie

3: Rotary with no boxes

 

I remember when these came out I bought one at my local model shop and it was very wobbly. I took it back and we went through about four models before finding one that ran true.

I think what I may do is just ream out the Airfix rods to work with the Hornby wheelsets.

Edited March 25, 2018 by Corbs

[FPH 603]

I think the official order is: 1: Me drilling a broken drill bit out of an airfix pannier chassis2: A standard airfix pannier3: Rotary with no boxes

Yep, all would startle anyone who so happens to be walking by! We had quite a few people walk by, either doing door to door advertising or just taking a stroll in what is normally a quiet street! Although I will say it was VERY loud! I could hear it from the other side of the house and when I went up close I needed earmuffs!

 

I'm sure you needed earmuffs for what you did too, though.

 

Anyway, back on topic!

Edited March 24, 2018 by FPH 603

[BernardTPM]

Yeah. Judging from stories I've heard this sort of issue was quite common.

I believe it was. It's a pity because in its day it was a beautfully detailed and very accurate model, save for the oddly retro non-see-through spokes in the pony wheels. In all other respects it was leaps and bounds ahead of what Hornby were doing at the time (think: Sir Dinadan).

Edited March 24, 2018 by BernardTPM

[Corbs]

Yes the comparative quality of the Hornby stuff at the time (and even into the 1990s) was shameful.

 

Last night I progressed with the Hornfix Class 31. I've opted to leave the exhausts alone for the time being until I have a replacement ready to go on.

 

I trimmed off the moulded handrails with a sharp stanley blade and the end of a file.

 

 

.45mm wire was bent to shape using some needle nosed pliers. It was quite difficult to get them all the same size but it's near enough that hopefully it won't stand out.

 

I drilled small pilot holes using the pin vice to locate one end, then used the soldering iron with gentle pressure to melt the other ends in.

 

The yellow was then brush painted on. I masked off and painted the bufferbeams, albeit with some 'bleed' under the tape which was scraped and touched in with yellow again after this pic.

I also painted the inside of the window frames black to hide the depth, ready for flush glazing.

 

 

The objective is to make this 31 very grimy. For a base, I lacquered it with dullcote, then did a wash of 'smoke', wiping most of it off but letting it run into the cracks.

 

I'll be adding OHL flashes and coupling stars next before any more weathering. Also to add are couplings (both screw link and tension lock) and pipes salvaged from the Hornby 31 body.

 

 

Should the headcode box be blanked for 1970s condition?

Edited March 26, 2018 by Corbs

[BernardTPM]

Depends on when in the 1970s. Headcodes were still in use until the end of 1975 by which time nearly everything had TOPS numbers. Initially they were wound to 0O00, later 'domino' white dot blinds were made, later still actual plating over with fitting of marker lights.

[St Enodoc]

Depends on when in the 1970s. Headcodes were still in use until the end of 1975 by which time nearly everything had TOPS numbers. Initially they were wound to 0O00, later 'domino' white dot blinds were made, later still actual plating over with fitting of marker lights.

0O00! Don't let them see that on this topic:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/130911-is-it-oo-or-00-gauge/

[cheesysmith]

IIRC the 31s retained the glass with dominos until they went though the HGR (heavy general repair, more like a mid life refurb) at doncaster works in the 80s. This is when they also lost the bodyside beading and the buffer beam cowlings.

[BernardTPM]

Depends on when in the 1970s. Headcodes were still in use until the end of 1975 by which time nearly everything had TOPS numbers. Initially they were wound to 0O00, later 'domino' white dot blinds were made, later still actual plating over with fitting of marker lights.

 

0O00! Don't let them see that on this topic:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/130911-is-it-oo-or-00-gauge/

Yes, I was aware of the implications - but when you look at the actual blinds it looks just like 0000, in other words there's no difference between 0 and O in that typeface!

A lot of Westerns were wound to show the number, of course, even though the 0 was, technically the letter O.

Edited March 26, 2018 by BernardTPM

[Corbs]

HORNFIX CLASS 31

 

Adding more details to this monstrous frankenstein.

 

The handrails have made a huge difference to the front. I had salvaged as much as I could from the smashed Hornby model's bufferbeams, and bought some rather nice Smith's screw link couplings.

I currently only have enough pipes to do one end so will see what I can do about the other. Of course only after the glue had dried did I realise I got a pipe and tap the wrong way around! Hopefully no-one will notice.

 

The coupling stars, data plates and OHLE flashes are from Fox Transfers as usual, using a few reference pics for placement although it differs between locos. To me these really help sell the model.

 

 

It was my first attempt with flush glazing, initially I tried to keep the windows in a row but the best way seemed to be applying individually. I made a few mistakes but the glue n glaze and general grubbiness helps to hide these a bit. I'm really glad I had painted the window surrounds.

 

and this is it this morning!

 

I'm very pleased with this revamp. Couplings still need to be added.

A little before-and-after.

 

 

[PM47079]

Amazing the difference a good old weathering does. Brilliant!

[Corbs]

Thanks

 

Onwards and ever upwards, I got a cabless Airfix 4F for the grand sum of £13.63.

 

We already have a complete 4F 'in the queue' so I thought we could do something else with this one.

 

TRIFIX 3F

 

I lopped the front off the Airfix chassis with the razor saw, and got an old Tri-ang 3F body out of a drawer. The wheels are roughly the same size, and I found a photograph of a 3F running with a Fowler tender, so that it shall be.

 

 

The 3F's moulded smokebox door was dremelled and filed out, and the 4F one trimmed off at the base and the back to fit in the slot.

 

 

Likewise the backhead was sawn off the 4F and glued in along with a footplate floor to cover over the huge motor hole. It's missing a step!

 

Using styrene strip and squadron green putty to fill in the gap at the bottom of the smokebox.

 

The handrails and various details will be salvaged off the 4F. As you can see the old moulded ones have been sliced off and filed down. Some filler primer should reveal what needs to be done.

 

[BernardTPM]

Nice, but please try to lose the skirt!

[Corbs]

ooh err!

[Flying Pig]

Yes perhaps should speak to him.

 

SPARE-PARTS PATRIOT

 

As mentioned above, I bought a Bachmann 'Patriot' with no tender to re-chassis the Royal Scot, but when I tried the Mainline 'Scot' chassis under the Patriot, it ran fine, so I decided to give the Patriot another chance.

 

 

That's a pretty shonky Patriot, but an excellent SPARE-PARTS ROYAL SCOT (as built with parallel boiler).

[cheesysmith]

I like the 31, but is there some way to get rid of the massive pimple on the cab front where the tail lights are supposed to go?

[Corbs]

That's a pretty shonky Patriot, but an excellent SPARE-PARTS ROYAL SCOT (as built with parallel boiler).

Hahaha! Serves me right for never bothering to look it up. In my defence they are quite similar.

 

The 31's acne - I think it's probably too late to get rid of it now but I may stick a blob of black on it to disguise it.

[Corbs]

Got the dremel and files out and attacked that ugly skirt under the boiler.

 

 

 

Then did some filling around the front end, it was getting a bit hard to see so a quick blast of primer was used to reveal what needs doing - more filling and sanding but certainly noticing the difference now. The lower boiler edge needs cleaning up but makes a heck of a difference without the slab sided-ness of the tri-ang original.

 

 

 

Edited September 21, 2022 by Corbs

[RedGemAlchemist]

Got the dremel and files out and attacked that ugly skirt under the boiler.

IMG_5809.JPG

 

Then did some filling around the front end, it was getting a bit hard to see so a quick blast of primer was used to reveal what needs doing - more filling and sanding but certainly noticing the difference now. The lower boiler edge needs cleaning up but makes a heck of a difference without the slab sided-ness of the tri-ang original.

 

fullsizeoutput_2925.jpeg

 

fullsizeoutput_2926.jpeg

That's going to be one smart looking loco. Fantastic work as always.

[BernardTPM]

Well done for biting that bullet! As it's a simple parallel boiler you should be able to find some near matching tubing to fill in the lower part.

[Corbs]

Cheers mate, I have to say I'm very glad I did chop out the skirt.

 

I ended up using a plasticard plug and the remains of the bottom of the 4F boiler, and lots of filler, to give the impression of the underside of the boiler.

 

 

 

prime-sand-fill-prime-sand-fill-prime-sand-fill-prime-sand-fill-prime-sand-fill-prime-sand-fill-prime-sand-fill-prime-sand-fill-prime-sand-fill

 

 

The handrails are the 4F ones, trimmed. The brake gear on the right side is also from the 4F, cut down and with the pipe reversed so it goes under the boiler rather than over the splasher.

 

 

 

paint-sand-paint-sand-paint-sand-paint-sand-paint-sand-paint-sand-paint-sand-paint-sand-paint-sand-paint-sand

 

 

Paint is just Halfords satin black. Reversing rod is the 4F one, flipped upside down, cut in half and glued at an angle, trimmed to length, in the 4F mount.

 

 

Meanwhiile, I spotted some rather battle scarred Hornby china-made Prairies and snapped them up, a green and a black one. Each one was cheaper than a replacement Airfix chassis!

 

The green one is battered but the black one is salvageable, so the spare Hornby chassis will be reborn under that one.

 

The chassis from one ended up under 6110 replacing the standard power-hungry Airfix one. I had to use the Airfix cylinders and motion, and a pony truck.

 

 

 

So 4160 gained the best of the Airfix wheels (this one has the Hornby motor in an Airfix chassis) - now has flanged centre drivers and non-broken piston rods.

 

 

Edited September 21, 2022 by Corbs