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I missed whose kit it was, but folding sides up from floors looks typical Mallard and Jidenco, a good idea on paper but hopeless in fact! 

 

With that van shown above, I would have soldered the doors in place to strengthen the sides while the etch is still in the flat. This would eliminate any chance of buckling during bending up from the floor.

 

With coaches, I removed the sides from the floor, produced the tumblehome and then soldered them back onto the floor.  BUT, normally I avoided Mallard and Jidenco like the plague. If knowledgeable builders did just that back in days of old, what chance has a bloke who fancies building something today?  Many of these useless kits were never built, which is why so many are now on Ebay to tempt lambs to slaughter. 

Edited by coachmann
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I missed whose kit it was, but folding sides up from floors looks typical Mallard and Jidenco, a good idea on paper but hopeless in fact! 

 

With that van shown above, I would have soldered the doors in place to strengthen the sides while the etch is still in the flat. This would eliminate any chance of buckling during bending up from the floor.

 

With coaches, I removed the sides from the floor, produced the tumblehome and then soldered them back onto the floor.  BUT, normally I avoided Mallard and Jidenco like the plague. If knowledgeable builders did just that back in days of old, what chance has a bloke who fancies building something today?  Many of these useless kits were never built, which is why so many are now on Ebay to tempt lambs to slaughter. 

 

Sorry Larry, but Jidenco / Falcon Brass Kits are far from useless - IF you regard them as a basis for a model, and upgrade them wherever your skills permit.

 

This was how they were designed way back in the mists of time, and that build approach still applies.

 

I have built several wagons from Jidenco / FB kits and they have turned out to be excellent representations of off-beat subjects.

 

I still have several to build.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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So, part one is here
 
Firstly, Grandpa's kit that I bought off ebay.
Typically your main problems besides missing parts, are tarnished brass (goes a rose or orange colour)  and cellotape - used by the kit maker to keep the fret on the cardboard used to hold the kit.
 
The answer, a great Australian invention "BRASSO" 
I use this libarally, applied with an old paint brush, and when I strike a "deep" problem, such as rose colour, where the etching solution has bitten too deep or is still eating into the brass, I will work this with a cotton bud.
Failing that, a Dremel with a soft BRASS circular brush will work that area quite well,  and the same for the discolouration of where tape has sat for 30 years.
A note for new users
If the blemish is light, apply brasso, wait a while, then rub hard with a tissue, or cotton bud, or paper towel. 
BUT  look ahead of where your doing this. IF the fret has small or THIN bits, ease up and work lightly here, or you might snag a part and rip it out of the fret. = uncool
ALSO
if the damage is bad, ie its really discoloured everywhere and rose bits.  Then cote it with Brasso, and go watch a movie.  When you get back the fret will be a dull sand colour, and you should to this.
Re apply a thin coting of brasso over your work, then use a paper towel, tissue, whatever to rub over it.  Your paper will quickly go black, so you rotate your tissue / bud and keep going.
You will go through a lot of tissues, and the harder you rub, the shinneyer it will look - BUT - you WILL damage smaller parts.  So speed is bad, even though it makes things look good quickly.
If people want, I will make a YouTube video and post it to show how I do it.
 
OK so here is Grandpa's fret from ebay
 
And you clean it with Brasso, maybe once, maybe more, its amazing how it looks good after multiple cleans. 
 
Then wash it off.
 
I am going to post the instructions so the numbers of the kit will be meaningful.
My image here has highlighted the numbers etched in the brass in RED - which are easier to see when its clean.
 
Now early this year I bought a load of brass from a retiring modeller who also sold me this "hold and fold" bending jig.  Which looks great, but somehow my bends were not perfect, but looked good.  Initially
 
Now here is a tip for new brass users - take photos - lots of them, then zoom in and LOOK....  I missed this step here, I did not look and take notice.
When I looked from the top - I thought the sides were so thin it was naturally buckling, but if you stop and think about it. it buckles for a reason.  DUH,,,,
 
So, as a macho beast does, I squared up the sides, cus I can, and heck it looked good when I did.   
 
BUT  I was masking a problem I should have gone back to - to find out why....  Looking here,  its not so bad, is it ?
 
IF   I had looked a little closer - like I am here,  I would have seen the clues in the photos I was taking but not looking at..... another DUH....
 
Without zooming in, it looked ok, sat flat and was kinda square.  Depending on how hard you pushed the set square into the thin thin brass....
 
Note all the black bits of paper from polishing the brass.
 
wasnt really square, but it WAS clean......

 

 

It's MUCH easier to clean tarnished etches with a fibreglass polishing stick, and it gives the brass an ideal finish to allow solder and paint to adhere.

 

Folding brass is also much easier if you score the fold lines with a Stanley knife or scrawker, and use a couple of lengths of ground steel strip held in the vice to support the etch; (or, if you want to do a lot of this kind of work, buy a pair of bending bars).

 

There are skills to be acquired when building etched brass kits, but doing so will open up a whole new range of subjects that are unlikely to be made available RTR.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Edited by cctransuk
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My images of part one have been lost, I will buy another of these kits and redo the start, meanwhile I will show part two. 

What to look for, where it went wrong, how do I fix it.

 

After folding the sides (part one) and ensuring its all square, the sides were soldered in the corners, and along the floor the right angle of the sides to the floor were soldered to keep them in shape.

 

Well square is not a suggestion here, and although I thought I took care there was a small error that i had not picked.

 

Also the soldering of the floor caused some unevenness in the corner, causing the doors not to sit flush with the floor. This is what I am showing here.

 

I am not saying this was a good model, but I am brave enough to show it warts and all so others can learn from my mistakes.

 

IMAGES

 

The images show that the sides perhaps moved and then I squared them, making a 1mm error at one end, and thus a gap (Img 00)

 

The doors sat slightly up and not square when I soldered them. My asbestos fingers only so capable. 01a b c

But the beauty of the gas flame thrower is that it heats up a small area VERY quickly (5 seconds) and allows you to re seat it with a gentle tap from a screw driver to get it to sit on the floor properly

It was not much work to do a door, wait till it cooled down, and repeat for all 6 doors.  Now they look straight from the outside

THIS is why I dont use glue

 

2a - If you can, get a small square, its invaluable, if you can get a small and a larger one. You will learn to love them.

The Sides of this kit are SO thin, the bend and warp in the wind.  So keeping them square when you do something is so important. If you have a big lump of metal thats square, thats good too. Here is a piece of brass that I found in a scrap bin. 2b c

 

The sold bars worried me, as thin as a cigarette paper, they came naturally warped and bent. 

So here I have a length of brass right angle (plug for Eileens Emporium)  (love that place)

Using the dremel with a cutting disk two lengths were cut and used to firm up the solebars. 3a b c d

The end on shot shows it looks good 3e

 

Flux and Solder can bleed onto parts that you dont want it to, use a dremel steel brush, or a large flat file, my aldi special is good, it takes these off in moments, and as an additional bonus, leaves a wood grain pattern behind. 

Img 4a & 6a

 

PS - I spend half an hour naming these files and putting them up in order

Then this site randomly organises them.

Any clues how to make them display as you want them ?

 

I'm sorry, but I am going to be negative; this post strikes me more as 'How not to build an etched kit', or as a very good way of putting off a prospective builder from ever touching one !

 

I know from many years of attempting, and eventually succeeding, to build some of these early, more basic kits, that it is very much a case of (a lot of practice) makes (something approaching) perfect.

 

Unfortunately, you have chosen as a subject one of the most challenging of kits - certainly not one for the beginner.

 

I applaud your desire to teach the younger members of our hobby the more advanced skills, but surely it would give more encouragement if the finished article looked more like the prototype ?

 

Research is the most important stage of any model build - you can't possibly build a satisfactory model if you don't know what the prototype looked like, and no kit, however good, is going to come with every last drawing and photograph that will be needed.

 

I've no doubt that you will berate me for being negative, but a bad lesson is no better than no lesson at all.

 

Sorry,

John Isherwood.

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So, part one is here

 

Firstly, Grandpa's kit that I bought off ebay.

Typically your main problems besides missing parts, are tarnished brass (goes a rose or orange colour)  and cellotape - used by the kit maker to keep the fret on the cardboard used to hold the kit.

 

The answer, a great Australian invention "BRASSO" 

I use this libarally, applied with an old paint brush, and when I strike a "deep" problem, such as rose colour, where the etching solution has bitten too deep or is still eating into the brass, I will work this with a cotton bud.

Failing that, a Dremel with a soft BRASS circular brush will work that area quite well,  and the same for the discolouration of where tape has sat for 30 years.

A note for new users

If the blemish is light, apply brasso, wait a while, then rub hard with a tissue, or cotton bud, or paper towel. 

BUT  look ahead of where your doing this. IF the fret has small or THIN bits, ease up and work lightly here, or you might snag a part and rip it out of the fret. = uncool

ALSO

if the damage is bad, ie its really discoloured everywhere and rose bits.  Then cote it with Brasso, and go watch a movie.  When you get back the fret will be a dull sand colour, and you should to this.

Re apply a thin coting of brasso over your work, then use a paper towel, tissue, whatever to rub over it.  Your paper will quickly go black, so you rotate your tissue / bud and keep going.

You will go through a lot of tissues, and the harder you rub, the shinneyer it will look - BUT - you WILL damage smaller parts.  So speed is bad, even though it makes things look good quickly.

If people want, I will make a YouTube video and post it to show how I do it.

 

OK so here is Grandpa's fret from ebay

attachicon.gif20180302_025214.jpg

 

And you clean it with Brasso, maybe once, maybe more, its amazing how it looks good after multiple cleans. 

attachicon.gif20180302_031730.jpg

 

Then wash it off.

attachicon.gif20180302_032447.jpg

 

I am going to post the instructions so the numbers of the kit will be meaningful.

My image here has highlighted the numbers etched in the brass in RED - which are easier to see when its clean.

attachicon.gif20180302_033621.jpg

 

Now early this year I bought a load of brass from a retiring modeller who also sold me this "hold and fold" bending jig.  Which looks great, but somehow my bends were not perfect, but looked good.  Initially

attachicon.gif20180302_043918.jpg

 

Now here is a tip for new brass users - take photos - lots of them, then zoom in and LOOK....  I missed this step here, I did not look and take notice.

When I looked from the top - I thought the sides were so thin it was naturally buckling, but if you stop and think about it. it buckles for a reason.  DUH,,,,

attachicon.gif20180302_043935.jpg

 

So, as a macho beast does, I squared up the sides, cus I can, and heck it looked good when I did.   

attachicon.gif20180302_044009.jpg

 

BUT  I was masking a problem I should have gone back to - to find out why....  Looking here,  its not so bad, is it ?

attachicon.gif20180302_044303.jpg

 

IF   I had looked a little closer - like I am here,  I would have seen the clues in the photos I was taking but not looking at..... another DUH....

attachicon.gif20180302_044315.jpg

 

Without zooming in, it looked ok, sat flat and was kinda square.  Depending on how hard you pushed the set square into the thin thin brass....

attachicon.gif20180302_044326.jpg

 

Note all the black bits of paper from polishing the brass.

 

wasnt really square, but it WAS clean......

For the beginners.

Try fibreglass bushes. Not as cheap as they once were but essential for brass construction. Yesterday, I restocked at York. Paid about 9 quid for an abrasive stick that should outlive me, even if I have to clean up old etches like this. Cleaning a sheet like this will take about 10 minutes. Avoid breathing in the dust.

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Research     - WHY is there NOT a RnWeb index on kits So i can Find more relative information... NOT why dd you not look   - 

 

Cus they Wont

or cant..

 

'Cos no-one's done the huge amount of research required - nor ever likely to !! (Unless you fancy taking it on) ?

 

Don't fancy research ? Railway modelling is not for you .

 

Instant fulfilment required? Building brass kits is certainly not for you .

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Edited by cctransuk
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Penrith Beacon - it is, if you want, I will do another with a web cam that I will up load onto youtube

and show how to do it step by step. I have lots of kits to make.

 

k

My comment was intended to be humorous! I wouldn’t recommend such a kit for a beginner.
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Coachman, what a nice thought.    I thought that friendly looking chap in front of me was to a better kit, not the slaughterhouse... <grin>  I get your drift,  but heck, its better than being in the pub all night.  what have you to show for that, but for a nasty stain somewhere.

 

Jindenco  - bite me again....

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To John Isherwood. thank you for your comments.

I am in no way negative to you, this is for comments.

 

Sure I could stop this and let you fine gentlemen either instruct or not instruct readers on how best to do it.

 

And after some negative comments I have seen on this site, and then some towards me. I had a lot of thinking to do.  Call you all &***** whatevers - or have an opinion myself.

 

NO - You are all in the most part correct in your comments.  This is not perfect, this has faults, and you all pick it.

 

I figure, there will be some people that will find this interesting and hopefully informative.

 

SURE - Im not the best, I dont have a work shop, you see I build in the one foot of space in front of my keyboard.   ITS KITCHEN SINK BUILDING 

Im not disguising it.

 

But the only way I am going to do better is to make a kit, get it wrong, make another, get better, and so on.

 

But at least I have the strength to show that I go wrong,  heres what to look out for, what not to do ......  Where was that for me ?

 

And maybe, just maybe, some people will get it, that we all make mistakes, and seeing this will make them more comfortable having a go, and SEEING where someone else went wrong,  and MAYBE they can learn from those mistakes too. 

 

Im getting better.          Took a while,    I had  no one to teach me.

 

And the person that sees this and has a go  will not make a model that they can show off, but maybe after a few that improves.

 

Heck - some people might actually take up kit or scratch building and keep the hobby alive.     

 

Or not.

 

Im not being negative guys.

Is it better to show this

or for you all that can make better models to instruct others.  because Im not seeing a lot of you all showing how - or how not to.

 

Im trying to have fun, thats what the hobby is to me, after a day or a week of work, put the keyboard down and do something, even if it does turn out to be a pigs ear that I never show?

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So, part one is here
 
Firstly, Grandpa's kit that I bought off ebay.
Typically your main problems besides missing parts, are tarnished brass (goes a rose or orange colour)  and cellotape - used by the kit maker to keep the fret on the cardboard used to hold the kit.
 
The answer, a great Australian invention "BRASSO" 
I use this libarally, applied with an old paint brush, and when I strike a "deep" problem, such as rose colour, where the etching solution has bitten too deep or is still eating into the brass, I will work this with a cotton bud.
Failing that, a Dremel with a soft BRASS circular brush will work that area quite well,  and the same for the discolouration of where tape has sat for 30 years.
A note for new users
If the blemish is light, apply brasso, wait a while, then rub hard with a tissue, or cotton bud, or paper towel. 
BUT  look ahead of where your doing this. IF the fret has small or THIN bits, ease up and work lightly here, or you might snag a part and rip it out of the fret. = uncool
ALSO
if the damage is bad, ie its really discoloured everywhere and rose bits.  Then cote it with Brasso, and go watch a movie.  When you get back the fret will be a dull sand colour, and you should to this.
Re apply a thin coting of brasso over your work, then use a paper towel, tissue, whatever to rub over it.  Your paper will quickly go black, so you rotate your tissue / bud and keep going.
You will go through a lot of tissues, and the harder you rub, the shinneyer it will look - BUT - you WILL damage smaller parts.  So speed is bad, even though it makes things look good quickly.
If people want, I will make a YouTube video and post it to show how I do it.
 
OK so here is Grandpa's fret from ebay
 
And you clean it with Brasso, maybe once, maybe more, its amazing how it looks good after multiple cleans. 
 
Then wash it off.
 
I am going to post the instructions so the numbers of the kit will be meaningful.
My image here has highlighted the numbers etched in the brass in RED - which are easier to see when its clean.
 
Now early this year I bought a load of brass from a retiring modeller who also sold me this "hold and fold" bending jig.  Which looks great, but somehow my bends were not perfect, but looked good.  Initially
 
Now here is a tip for new brass users - take photos - lots of them, then zoom in and LOOK....  I missed this step here, I did not look and take notice.
When I looked from the top - I thought the sides were so thin it was naturally buckling, but if you stop and think about it. it buckles for a reason.  DUH,,,,
 
So, as a macho beast does, I squared up the sides, cus I can, and heck it looked good when I did.   
 
BUT  I was masking a problem I should have gone back to - to find out why....  Looking here,  its not so bad, is it ?
 
IF   I had looked a little closer - like I am here,  I would have seen the clues in the photos I was taking but not looking at..... another DUH....
 
Without zooming in, it looked ok, sat flat and was kinda square.  Depending on how hard you pushed the set square into the thin thin brass....
 
Note all the black bits of paper from polishing the brass.
 
wasnt really square, but it WAS clean......

 

 

Do you relieve the the fold half etches with a three square or square needle files, this will give you a much easier time of folding. But I am actually with Larry on this and actually remove the sides detail them and solder back on later.

What are you going to do about the brakes being in the wrong place.

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To John Isherwood. thank you for your comments.

I am in no way negative to you, this is for comments.

 

Sure I could stop this and let you fine gentlemen either instruct or not instruct readers on how best to do it.

 

And after some negative comments I have seen on this site, and then some towards me. I had a lot of thinking to do.  Call you all &***** whatevers - or have an opinion myself.

 

NO - You are all in the most part correct in your comments.  This is not perfect, this has faults, and you all pick it.

 

I figure, there will be some people that will find this interesting and hopefully informative.

 

SURE - Im not the best, I dont have a work shop, you see I build in the one foot of space in front of my keyboard.   ITS KITCHEN SINK BUILDING 

Im not disguising it.

 

But the only way I am going to do better is to make a kit, get it wrong, make another, get better, and so on.

 

But at least I have the strength to show that I go wrong,  heres what to look out for, what not to do ......  Where was that for me ?

 

And maybe, just maybe, some people will get it, that we all make mistakes, and seeing this will make them more comfortable having a go, and SEEING where someone else went wrong,  and MAYBE they can learn from those mistakes too. 

 

Im getting better.          Took a while,    I had  no one to teach me.

 

And the person that sees this and has a go  will not make a model that they can show off, but maybe after a few that improves.

 

Heck - some people might actually take up kit or scratch building and keep the hobby alive.     

 

Or not.

 

Im not being negative guys.

Is it better to show this

or for you all that can make better models to instruct others.  because Im not seeing a lot of you all showing how - or how not to.

 

Im trying to have fun, thats what the hobby is to me, after a day or a week of work, put the keyboard down and do something, even if it does turn out to be a pigs ear that I never show?

 

I won't argue with any of that, but there are plenty of published accounts of how to undertake this kind of modelling that will help the learner to avoid the more common pitfalls, and gain proficiency more quickly.

 

I am thinking in particular of the the Wild Swan publications of a few years ago - http://titfield.co.uk/Wild-Swan/Subject-List.htm .

 

These books were my apprenticeship, and have yet to be bettered. They tell you how to go about whatever task it may be, how to avoid mistakes that may not be obvious, and lead you naturally through to a finished article of such quality that you are inspired to have a go yourself.

 

That's how I did it, anyway.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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Thank you for your input John, would appreciate any helpful ideas on how to make this better for new kit builders and other kitchen bench modellers to improve their skills through illustration here on RmWeb - rather than works. 

 

I myself am a very pictorial learner.  show me and like a monkey I will copy.

Tell me, and my mind makes several versions of what you said, possible .

 

Sad, but thats how it is for me.

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Thank you for your input John, would appreciate any helpful ideas on how to make this better for new kit builders and other kitchen bench modellers to improve their skills through illustration here on RmWeb - rather than works. 

 

I myself am a very pictorial learner.  show me and like a monkey I will copy.

Tell me, and my mind makes several versions of what you said, possible .

 

Sad, but thats how it is for me.

 

I don't consider myself of sufficient expertise to publish 'how to' posts here - I leave that to the acknowledged experts and to published authors.

 

I have posted some of my own modelling projects here, but in no way would I consider them to be object lessons for others to follow.

 

It is a prerequisite, I feel, to publishing such instructional material that the finished model should be of sufficient quality to inspire others to follow suit.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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John, I hear you

But I would counter you on   'how to' posts here - I leave that to the acknowledged experts and to published authors.

 

I would have hoped this was a forum for anyone to show

 

Not those that have made exhibition standards.

 

Perhaps there is a sandpit for both of us, those not  "experts and to published authors"  but  like the hobby and want to progress, but want some real hands on help ?

 

Maybe there is an alternative to RmWeb for people that want to roll their sleeves up and have a go for the first time.    Perhaps  RmWebForBegginers.com  or HaveAGo_itsNotAsHardAsYouThink.com

 

Not being nasty, but where do people that are wanting to put their toes in the water for the first time go ?        It cant be for where published authors go surely ?

 

This is where I turn to 

 

All the best

K

Edited by bundeena2230
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Not being nasty, but where do people that are wanting to put their toes in the water for the first time go ?        It cant be for where published authors go surely ?

 

 

There are lots of professional builders, plus even more 'amateurs' who have lost count of the number of brass kits that they have built, who post here in detail about their builds. In no way are these members 'superior'; sensible questions will invariably elicit a helpful response.

 

I do feel that a degree of experience is necessary before moving into the tutorial arena, and this requires an element of strong self-criticism. This is why I post along the lines of 'This is how I did it', rather than 'This is how to do it'.

 

The reader is then left to judge whether my finished model is of a sufficient standard to warrant following my methods. Genuine newbies may well follow to the letter 'This is how to do it' postings, which may contain dubious advice and lead them down blind alleys.

 

As I say, I am sorry to be critical, but I believe it is important to put forward 'best practice' when guiding others.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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Sorry Larry, but Jidenco / Falcon Brass Kits are far from useless - IF you regard them as a basis for a model, and upgrade them wherever your skills permit.

 

This was how they were designed way back in the mists of time, and that build approach still applies.

 

I have built several wagons from Jidenco / FB kits and they have turned out to be excellent representations of off-beat subjects.

 

I still have several to build.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 You produce transfers so do me a favour!    :banghead:

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There are lots of professional builders, plus even more 'amateurs' who have lost count of the number of brass kits that they have built, who post here in detail about their builds. In no way are these members 'superior'; sensible questions will invariably elicit a helpful response.

 

I do feel that a degree of experience is necessary before moving into the tutorial arena, and this requires an element of strong self-criticism. This is why I post along the lines of 'This is how I did it', rather than 'This is how to do it'.

 

The reader is then left to judge whether my finished model is of a sufficient standard to warrant following my methods. Genuine newbies may well follow to the letter 'This is how to do it' postings, which may contain dubious advice and lead them down blind alleys.

 

As I say, I am sorry to be critical, but I believe it is important to put forward 'best practice' when guiding others.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

OK, but have you produced a tutorial for etched brass? Sorry if I've missed it, could you offer a link?

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 You produce transfers so do me a favour!    :banghead:

 

I do - I make no secret of the fact, though I fail to see how that affects my ability to comment on a thread concerning the assembly of Jidenco kits - as stated, I have assembled quite a few.

 

Please could you elaborate on the meaning of the above?

 

Thanks,

John.

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OK, but have you produced a tutorial for etched brass? Sorry if I've missed it, could you offer a link?

 

No, I haven't - because I do not consider myself sufficiently skilled to presume to do so.

 

That is my point - to be a teacher, one should have a reasonable proficiency at the skill being taught.

 

Not a radical proposition, surely?

 

I would add that the OP and I have conducted a perfectly civilised PM exchange of e-mails on the subject, without having to resort to sarcasm or any other form of impolite communication.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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For the beginners.

Try fibreglass bushes. Not as cheap as they once were but essential for brass construction. Yesterday, I restocked at York. Paid about 9 quid for an abrasive stick that should outlive me, even if I have to clean up old etches like this. Cleaning a sheet like this will take about 10 minutes. Avoid breathing in the dust.

 

Not tested in anger, but for the price you can't really lose.  No good for detail, but should be good for cleaning up etches:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-Glass-fiber-Rust-Remover-Stick-Metal-Rust-Pan-Cleaning-Brush-New-BT/282291017847?epid=1251336921&hash=item41b9db1877:g:5V4AAOSw241YUP20

 

HTH

Brian

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Not tested in anger, but for the price you can't really lose.  No good for detail, but should be good for cleaning up etches:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-Glass-fiber-Rust-Remover-Stick-Metal-Rust-Pan-Cleaning-Brush-New-BT/282291017847?epid=1251336921&hash=item41b9db1877:g:5V4AAOSw241YUP20

 

HTH

Brian

 

I wouldn't risk it. Especially since you can buy the proper tools quite cheaply.

 

https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/modelcraft-glass-fibre-pencil/568802-1000

 

Refills seem to be out of stock, but readily available elsewhere.

 

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=GM634&style=main&strType=&Mcode=Gaugemaster+GM634

 

 

 

Jason

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Not tested in anger, but for the price you can't really lose.  No good for detail, but should be good for cleaning up etches:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-Glass-fiber-Rust-Remover-Stick-Metal-Rust-Pan-Cleaning-Brush-New-BT/282291017847?epid=1251336921&hash=item41b9db1877:g:5V4AAOSw241YUP20

 

HTH

Brian

 

Got some , I wouldn't recommend, they have some kind of detergent/soap mixed in , to help with oven/pots cleaning I presume .

 

I find the string bound ones are the best , expensive compared to the eBay offering.

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Not tested in anger, but for the price you can't really lose.  No good for detail, but should be good for cleaning up etches:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-Glass-fiber-Rust-Remover-Stick-Metal-Rust-Pan-Cleaning-Brush-New-BT/282291017847?epid=1251336921&hash=item41b9db1877:g:5V4AAOSw241YUP20

 

HTH

Brian

That looks spot on. These used to be available at most model shops. The ones currently available seem a little gentle. I am down to the dog end of my last blue stick purchased in the last century.

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