Hornby Class 31

[AndyB]

Looking for advice on purchasing a Hornby Class 31.

 

My local model shop is offering Hornby Class 31 (R2413) for around £68. This seems to tick the boxes on my desired livery and price.

 

I believe this particular model may have been superseded, so there aren't any details on the Hornby site about features associated with this model. Can anyone enlighten me?

 

The batch "B" is retailing for at RRP of £102, but they don't include much of a description. So it's not possible to infer anything.

 

Other variants of the Class 31 have slightly more detailed descriptions of what you get for your money. I'm also aware that some have working fans....again Hornby's site doesn't seem to say which ones. Any clues?

 

Lastly, the R2413B is described as BR A1A-A1A, whereas others go by the simple title BR Blue Class 31. Again, can anyone fill me in?

 

Bit confused.

Any advice much appreciated.

 

Andy

[marlish0_1]

Hi Andy

 

this link is to Antics, none in stock but gives overview.

http://www.railway-models.co.uk/1301_1_1185482.html

 

I bought this when it was first out & is a very good loco

 

The A1A-A1A refers to the outer wheels are driven but the middle ones are freely rotating

Hope this makes sense

A

 

 

 

 

Looking for advice on purchasing a Hornby Class 31.

 

My local model shop is offering Hornby Class 31 (R2413) for around £68. This seems to tick the boxes on my desired livery and price.

 

I believe this particular model may have been superseded, so there aren't any details on the Hornby site about features associated with this model. Can anyone enlighten me?

 

The batch "B" is retailing for at RRP of £102, but they don't include much of a description. So it's not possible to infer anything.

 

Other variants of the Class 31 have slightly more detailed descriptions of what you get for your money. I'm also aware that some have working fans....again Hornby's site doesn't seem to say which ones. Any clues?

 

Lastly, the R2413B is described as BR A1A-A1A, whereas others go by the simple title BR Blue Class 31. Again, can anyone fill me in?

 

Bit confused.

Any advice much appreciated.

 

Andy

[orcadian]

Hi, Andy!

The B - suffix to the R number just indicates that it is a re-release with minor changes to the decoration, usually a different running number (and name if applicable). Any more significant differences would almost invariably be accompanied by a new 'R' number. Maunsell coaches are now up to 'E' suffixes in some cases.

[AndyB]

Hi, Andy!

The B - suffix to the R number just indicates that it is a re-release with minor changes to the decoration, usually a different running number (and name if applicable). Any more significant differences would almost invariably be accompanied by a new 'R' number. Maunsell coaches are now up to 'E' suffixes in some cases.

 

 

 

Thanks to you both for your help. I've got my name on one to be collected tomorrow morning.

Andy

[craigwelsh]

Hi Andy

The A1A-A1A refers to the outer wheels are driven but the middle ones are freely rotating

Hope this makes sense

A

Though ironically Hornby powered the model as a C-C (ie all wheels driven) even though the middle wheels of each bogie are smaller diameter and rotate at a different speed!

[AndyB]

Sadly this was not a good purchase.

 

Once a decoder was installed the directional lighting failed to work at one end of the loco. This proved to be due to a poor connection between the copper-clad tags located on the cab floor and the LED located inside a separate part which includes the driver's desk.

 

The reason for the poor connection was that the two plastic projections which form the link between the cab floor and the bulk of the chasis failed after the loco was taken apart (for decoder fitting) and put back together again carefully.

 

I can only suggest that if a product breaks after the body shell is removed and replaced twice then it wasn't a great design. I'm sure there are many happy punters out there who are thoroughly satisfied. I'm just not one of them.

 

I've now got a choice of gluing the chasis back together again and hoping that it allows good connection between the copper tags and LEDs, or returning the whole product to the manufacturer.

Andy

[mossdp]

I think you need to read:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=45893

 

and

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=43641

 

This is a well known problem and affects very many of the first batch of green and blue 31s. Hornby have promised a solution, but unless there is a thread about it that I am unaware of on here - I have not been looking in regularly, the problem remains unresolved. A similar problem has also affected some Heljan class 47s.

[AndyB]

I think you need to read:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=45893

 

and

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=43641

 

This is a well known problem and affects very many of the first batch of green and blue 31s. Hornby have promised a solution, but unless there is a thread about it that I am unaware of on here - I have not been looking in regularly, the problem remains unresolved. A similar problem has also affected some Heljan class 47s.

 

 

Good to know that. I did see a thread about brittle plastic (can't remember where). I think part of the problem is that the designers were obviously a little short of space. However, it would be strengthened by sparking out a rib shape in the relevant tool.

 

Although it could be returned to the shop I feel as if a solution would be to glue the cab floor back into position. Having not had great success with Hornby's 08 and their after care I don't think returning it would be helpful.

 

On the plus side, once I've mended it it's going to look great pulling parcels trains. Trying to be a "Glass half full" person!

Andy

[AndyB]

Quick update. I took the broken Class 31 back to the retailer who was more than happy to swap it - and tackle the Hornby rep.

 

Got the replacement home and it broke when we replaced the body shell on fitting the decoder. Specifically, 2 of the 4 plastic mouldings that take the screws (holding the body shell to the chases) broke and one of the brass inserts was missing.

 

We were able to get the red LEDs on the replacement working by teasing out the copper tags that make contact with the LEDs. Helpful tip from our retailer.

 

So, back to the shop with the replacement and more wasted time. Regretting purchasing from Hornby.

[rob D2]

sorry to hear that,

I have 2 Hornby 31s and think they are good models.The achilles heel may well be the chassis crumbling issue on which Hornby are very quiet at present.

[AndyB]

Hi, Rob,

It was 3rd time lucky - got one that didn't fall to pieces when the decoder was fitted. At some point I've got to take it apart again to get one of the sets of lights working that currently doesn't come into contact with the copper tags. But was happy to see it running on "Highworth". I'll fix the lights another day.

Andy

[marlish0_1]

I've got to say mine was a pain to put the lights back in, from memory though I placed the body upside down, put the cabs in situ, then lowered the body on, I'm sure it worked a treat.

Mine is now sold due to dropping it so I can't try it for real

[craigwelsh]

sorry to hear that,

I have 2 Hornby 31s and think they are good models.The achilles heel may well be the chassis crumbling issue on which Hornby are very quiet at present.

Its only an issue on a couple of releases from the 1st batch; not heard anything useful yet about when mine will get a one piece chassis instead of 3 though..

 

I can't remember having an issue with that one actually as far as decoder fitting was concerned, it was only when the problem was reported and I checked mine that it had an issue (ie breaking into 3!).

[Jon020]

Ive had two 31s, one weathered 31111 (the skinhead one) and 31174 (I think) BR Blue unweathered. The first went back with poor electrical pick up after I couldn't seem to find the fault and the other one went back with poor bodywork - white residue on grills, glue marks on door handrails, buffer beam askew - screwlink coupling wouldn't fit, cab details all loose - supplier checked his stock and all had omne or more of the same faults, so all went back. Have had no problem returning these but am now disappointed in being 31-less. Want an unweathered one so that it can be renumber and weathered as I want it - withouat all that muck on the bodysides... but grubby chassis and underframe - and modified with ETH as a Finsbury Park BR Blue 400. Now waiting to see how the new ones perform interms of quality later this year - for now, focusing on other Finsbury Park / Kings cross 1970s diesels!

I'd check return policies before buying.

[AndyB]

Had a reply from Hornby's customer service today. The basics of their message are that they can't find a fault in their own production samples, so can't explain either the cracked chases or body work issues.

 

However they plan to contact me in May to arrange a replacement. I'd guess similar messages have gone to all others affected.

 

Meantime my own model shop has found a reasonable replacement and, I guess, have returned the 2 faulty ones direct to Hornby themselves.

 

Andy

[craigwelsh]

Had a reply from Hornby's customer service today. The basics of their message are that they can't find a fault in their own production samples, so can't explain either the cracked chases or body work issues.

 

However they plan to contact me in May to arrange a replacement. I'd guess similar messages have gone to all others affected.

 

Meantime my own model shop has found a reasonable replacement and, I guess, have returned the 2 faulty ones direct to Hornby themselves.

 

Andy

Yes it seems to be a generic response written up by the legal and pr departments. Its a bit like the letters Toyota did before it really was proved their car had an issue. 'not our fault but we'll replace it anyway as we're nice'.

 

I'm not too bothered as long as I do get the followup next month and a new chassis!

[rob D2]

I never got a reply,

hoping to get a replacement at some point. The problem on mine is the more insidious corner cracking rather than full mazak destruction !

[AndyB]

Hi, Rob D2,

I guess you just have to keep on at them. Maybe drop them a line and say you heard that replacements were on offer from May and "What should I do to get one?"

Andy

[Pete the Elaner]

I'm slightly disappointed with Hornby regarding the 31.

I bought a dutch-liveried skinhead some time ago. A skinhead is an unusual variation so I welcomed it. I don't remember ever seeing a skinhead on the main line, so 1 is enough for me.

I was & am still pleased with the model. I like the way it looks & runs.

 

I kept my eyes open waiting for a RF grey one & also another dutch one, this time with a headcode box.

Production of the skinhead dutch one ran on & on......& on & on.

I was pleased to see the R/F grey one released, except it was a skinhead

 

Please Hornby, make some standard, unnamed headcode-boxed models: Rail Blue, RF Grey (with & without the red stripe), all with numbers which are easy to remove & replace (like the Mk3 DVT which I renumbered in about 2 minutes ) & also without weathering please!

I am sure there are others like me who would buy several, but at the moment our options are somewhat limited.

I'll vote with my wallet. When something more useful to me arrives in the shops, I'll be tempted.

[AndyB]

Now that I've got one that didn't fall apart I'm trying to fix the drooping couplings which lead to random decoupling and shorting when the loco passes over some turnouts.

Seems to be caused by a rubbery, light grey moudling around the buffer beam pushing the coupling downwards. Thinking of filing a slot in the grey moulding to allow the coupler to sit horizontal.

 

All I will say is that when we design products at my own company we figure out how components clash before tooling up!

[Nile_Griffith]

Bought a weathered blue 31 last week.

 

Did the usual running on my rolling road (in DC) prior to installing a Lenz Silver decoder. Was disappointed to see that only the red tail lights where coming up and no illumination in the headcode box. But thought would I hold on and see what transpires when I lift the body off to fit the chip i case a little post manufacture remedial work was required.

 

Having lifted the body. I gave the Loco a run up and down the plank (again before fitting chip) just to see how the motor, drive shafts and fan, where all operating.

 

There sure enough was the yellow LED for the forward lights that are set in the headcode box, shining brightly.

 

I guess I should have took a picture of this. But the LED sits at inner cab, roof level at the back of the cab and Hornby's notion is that by inserting a piece of fairly cheap clear acrylic behind the headcode box and running along to the inner roof of the cab, the light from the LED will shine along this and provide sufficient glow to the Headcode........... Errrrrrm No. Well not on mine at least.

 

A little bit of teasing has removed the clear acrylic with its shroud from out of the inner cab roof and the headcode. Guess I'm going to have to modify this with a couple of small LED's.

 

Don't suppose anyone out there can confirm that the headcode boxes where a "white" illumination (all be it tungsten white). Or was a yellow filter added????

 

Still with having to do this mod.It will give me an excuse to add another small yellow LED for cab lighting.

[Guest Phil]

Don't suppose anyone out there can confirm that the headcode boxes where a "white" illumination (all be it tungsten white). Or was a yellow filter added????

 

Still with having to do this mod.It will give me an excuse to add another small yellow LED for cab lighting.

 

Lighting on model diesels is a bit of a sore subject for me.

 

Class 31s were built with filament bulbs all round, headcode box included. ALL lights except tail tamps were a yellow glow. Headcode box mods simply involved removing the blinds and sticking some black plastic on the headcode box glass with white plastic "dominoes". Even after refurbishment, the only bright light on a 31 was that fitted to the hi intensity headlight, variously located at the bottom of the erstwhile gangway doors, or under the driver's window.

 

Bright LEDs are excellent on modern diesels, electrics and units, but not on 1950s/1960s traction !!!

 

Really looking forward to seeing Bachmann's 350 to see modern lighting in action, and bet Jim SW won't resist having one for "New St" even if it'll be totally out of place.

[Guest Phil]

 

Don't suppose anyone out there can confirm that the headcode boxes where a "white" illumination (all be it tungsten white). Or was a yellow filter added????

 

Still with having to do this mod.It will give me an excuse to add another small yellow LED for cab lighting.

 

Lighting on model diesels is a bit of a sore subject for me.

 

Class 31s were built with filament bulbs all round, headcode box included. ALL lights except tail tamps were a yellow glow. Headcode box mods simply involved removing the blinds and sticking some black plastic on the headcode box glass with white plastic "dominoes". Even after refurbishment, the only bright light on a 31 was that fitted to the hi intensity headlight, variously located at the bottom of the erstwhile gangway doors, or under the driver's window.

 

Bright LEDs are excellent on modern diesels, electrics and units, but not on 1950s/1960s traction !!!

 

Really looking forward to seeing Bachmann's 350 to see modern lighting in action, and bet Jim SW won't resist having one for "New St" even if it'll be totally out of place.

[oggy1953]

I have 2 Hornby class 31s. I want to fit a sound chip to the blue 31111 so took it apart to see how easy it would be. On re-assembley the lights at one end wouldn't work. No end of trying would fix the problem, so i took the 'Dutch' one apart ( big mistake ). On re assembling that one none of the lights would work. I stripped down again and held the cab interior down with a finger to see if lights would work, blow me the chassis snapped and i'm having a devil of a job glueing back together. Absolutely gutted as i purchased this one some time ago so it won't be covered. Surely the light area could have been designed better. Are there any easy fixes for this light problem ?

[7013]

This loco sounds like a nightmare, I was thinking of buying an early green model but would not touch it with a bargepole on the evidence of this thread. I wonder if the Railroad (Ex Lima) would be a better purchase