Motion assembly with rivets

[Jeff Smith]

I am assembling a Wrightlines 7mm Baldwin with Walschaerts valve gear. The kit instructions are a bit vague regarding use of the supplied rivets. The rivets are silver coloured but non-magnetic. My question is how are these used? There is a slight depression on the small diameter end so I'm wondering if this is meant to be spread of simply soldered? Any insight would be useful please.

[dhjgreen]

In 4mm I managed to swage the rivets on my return crank with a pair of round nosed pliers.  I asked Markits and he said many people hit it with a hammer!  He went on to say that is was very easy to overdo it and jam the pivot.  I could not use the hammer method as the return crank has to be riveted when in place in the motion.  I found I could not solder the rivets I had nor could I successfully glue them.

[cctransuk]

I am assembling a Wrightlines 7mm Baldwin with Walschaerts valve gear. The kit instructions are a bit vague regarding use of the supplied rivets. The rivets are silver coloured but non-magnetic. My question is how are these used? There is a slight depression on the small diameter end so I'm wondering if this is meant to be spread of simply soldered? Any insight would be useful please.

 

I built the same kit ages ago.

 

Place the two components over the rivet, ensuring that they can pivot freely around the rivet.

 

Place the rivet head-down on an offcut of steel, and LIGHTLY tap the recessed rivet end with a LIGHT hammer to spread it, and retain the two components.

 

If the joint is sloppy, another tap will close up the joint a little; gently does it is the thing to remember here.

 

An automatic (spring-loaded) centre-punch can also be used to spread the rivet end, after some practice.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Edited April 2, 2018 by cctransuk

[sjp23480]

I used to try to use the rivets supplied with kits but found them very difficult to work with.

 

I am now firmly converted to the Tony Wright method of "riveting" valve gear.

 

He advocates using 14mm brass lace making pins.

 

Get a pin (with the head on the outside), put the outer piece of the valve gear on the pin, then push a small piece of paper on the pin then add the second piece of valve gear, add flux and in and out with some solder to fix the pin to the rear of the second valve gear component, remove the paper spacer to ensure everything moves freely, then snip off the excess pin and dress.

 

Good luck

Steve

[Jeff Smith]

Steve, yes that is the way I would have assumed best had the rivets not been supplied....I presume Tony Wright is not the Wright of Wrightlines?

[sjp23480]

Not as far as I am aware, Tony Wright of "Wright writes" of this manor, Little Bytham and BRM fame

[5050]

Steve, yes that is the way I would have assumed best had the rivets not been supplied....I presume Tony Wright is not the Wright of Wrightlines?

No connection at all.  'Wrightlines' in kit form now go back many years.  Are they still (or ever?) in the ABS stable ?

[Jeff Smith]

I have run into two problems. The rivets are too short, longer ones may be available from Gibson. However the main problem is attaching the eccentric crank to the crankpin. These are steel Gibson ones and soldering is proving difficult, brass Romford ones would have been much easier....how do other people fit eccentric cranks to Gibson crank pins?

[NFWEM57]

Have just been making up part of a Wizard Models motion set (LM41) to convert an old damaged (circa 1999) OO Bachman split chassis BR Class 4 MT 4-6-0 to EM and DCC   The motion set came with small rivets as described by John Isherwood above, indented on the tail end.  I put the components together with slips of paper between each item and one piece more on top and then used an adjustable automatic centre punch on a light setting.  First attempt was a little too light so quick adjustment and a satisfactory 'join' thereafter.  Make sure you are on a hard surface as John Isherwood suggested.

 

First time I have ever attempted valve gear.  Placed the expansion link the wrong way round on one occasion but removal of rivet was easy with fine side cutters followed by a little filing.  Will have to see how it holds up but probably just a little adjustment to the automatic adjustable hole punch will be all that is required.

 

You could practice before hand using scrap parts of the sheet, drill some 0.85mm holes (for the rivets I had) and try joining.  Wizard Models sell packs of short and medium rivets manufactured by Alan Gibson.

 

Patrick Hunt

[RAF96]

The use of rivet setting pliers is to be commended. The anvil is shaped to accommodate the rivet head and the spreader locates in that ‘dimple’ on the shank. Squeeze as far as necessary - job done.

[stewartingram]

Any links for these rivet setting pliers?