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G scale models - card and kit construction


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So, here we go... another card loco! This time in 16mm scale on 45mm track (wrong gauge I know, but needs must).

 

The tin turtle is from WW1, used in the trenches. This will be entry level, easy, cheap and hopefully rather robust as it is to be used by my 6yo.

 

The parts are being designed and cut on my silhouette cutter- basically making a kit of parts then building them. Cheap plastic wheels and a basic motor may/may not be linked to a cheap radio control unit.

 

This is the chassis:

 

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Out for a run, pushing a rather bright carriage based on the Ffestiniog work men's open ones.

 

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Now the visible chassis which will have the body built on it- the basic running chassis could be used for all sorts...

 

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Next stage will be all those lovely curves and many many tiny crafting gems that make good rivets in this scale.

Edited by cornamuse
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It will be interesting to see how the complex  curved front turns out, having had the experience of trying to scratchbuild one, and then designing my 3D printed model.

Have already had a go in 7mm scale- oddly, I find it more forgiving than this scale as you can just imply detail... and the panels can be made of thin card. On this I am using 4 laminations to make panels 2mm thick. Sturdy, by a pain to form to a nice curve!

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So onto the curves... a pain to form from 3 layers - inside 2 narrower to form a lip to increase the strength of the join.

 

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And now mounted on the chassis, being inspected by the increasingly notorious Willy Dribble. What does it say about me that my only figure is usually to be found using the urinals?

 

 

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And now with a roof. I thought this would be a nightmare, but the 3 laminations of card held the curve nicely on their own once the glue was dry.

 

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The roof ends are about 8 layers thick to provide a good thick edge for glueing.

 

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The roof supports are an inverted u to increase strength.

 

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And now...

 

I bring you Elvis the Turtle!

 

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Rather tempted to leave it there; never had a bling loco before! The rivets are a bit big and not entirely accurately placed, but anyone bothered by that will already have given up looking at my models!

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Today's project: a driver, as yet unnamed ( Private Parts; Major Disaster... you get the picture...)

 

Possibly a little big, but, with some drastic surgery on his unmentionable regions, he should do ok. I know that people like to count buttons and insignia as much as rivets, but I encourage those people to look at his poor hands: buttons are the least of his worries!!

 

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Edited by cornamuse
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And now...

I bring you Elvis the Turtle!

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Rather tempted to leave it there; never had a bling loco before! The rivets are a bit big and not entirely accurately placed, but anyone bothered by that will already have given up looking at my models!

Briefly, it had to be the world's first Rhinestone Tin Turtle!

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I love your characters.

They look suitably deranged for an imaginary railway :)

 

What have you modelled them from?

Also how is the Gainford extension progressing?

 

Deranged is a good word. it is clear he was conscious when I stuck the toothpick up his bum to help him stay seated! my son has named him Private Eye because of his appearance :)

 

The figure is fimo, with an armature of tin foil to get the pose right and keep the thickness of clay (and price) down. The previous figure was solid clay and didn't bake as well. He was baked in stages to make life easier, as it sets the detail or pose before moving on to the next stage. so - head, hat, hands and boots first, with head glued into hat after baking and after major surgery. Then his legs were modelled with the boots in place, baked again, then body and hands were added. Finally the head and some small details like epaulets, buttons and pockets and then a final bake. Left to cool and then painted.

 

not perfect, I know, but sort of fits the semi-real world I model. Speaking of which, Gainford is on standby until I work out how to bridge the window!

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  • 2 weeks later...

And now for the guts...

 

A fuel tank..

 

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Hiding a speaker

 

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And a radiator hiding another one

 

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The engine cover will hide 2 circuit boards of the speaking greetings card variety. One will play a steady combustion engine chug, the other will sound an "arooga" klaxon on demand :)

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Painted and installed- the driver has a lot less space than he would in reality, but I think it maintains the feel of the original.

 

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The electronics are fitted and working, a recording of a lister engine rather than simplex, as the chug sounded more convincing with the cheap sound unit- the simplex came out sounding like white noise. When I work out how, I will post a video...

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Structural work complete... off to a friendly local wizard to have radio controlled stuff done. Apparently forward, reverse and honk may be possible, although I ain't left much space under the floor.

 

So- the turtle's exhaust side-

 

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And with fake double doors open to reveal sound wiring intestines-

 

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Then on to normal viewing side. The doors stay open or closed by magnets in my version, although I may yet build the rather hefty catches.

 

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After the control, just couplers and a truck or two to construct! I'm intending building my own couplers, not because I have the holy grail of perfect coupling in my fevered imagination, but because I'm cheap :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Evolution of buffers:

 

Nail, filed vaguely oblong on the head, glued to the card buffer head- that has a recess on the rear formed by layers of card with a hole in

 

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Then strips of sticky label wrapped round the nail and soaked in superglue

 

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If you value your time at minimum wage, then they are more expensive than a £10 pair off tinternet, if you are time-rich like me, then happy days, although I must admit I can only stand a couple at a time! Works at least as well in 7mm scale- maybe better as your eye allows for the small details that are missing.

Edited by cornamuse
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  • 2 months later...

Finally there is some progress on the WD bogie wagon. Sort of class D only shorter and only 1 door per side. Reason being the full size one would be too big to fit on a standard LGB panel (important for my evil plans....)

 

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As usual, mostly cardboard - mounting board and thick good-quality Bristol board. Non card parts- 8 plastic wheels, 2 axels, 2 bolts for the bearings on the bogies, 2 nails for the buffers, few washers to level things up. It is really solid, though.

 

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Runs nicely, especially after waxing the axelboxes and bearings - candle wax not grease or oil, because of the card- I don’t use metal bearings on the axels, seems to work so far...

 

Turtle is back and radio controlled, thanks to John who is a bit clever at that (bloody amazing, more like. Just don’t ask what he thinks of my soldering) very nice proportional speed control, can crawl or trundle with amazing control. Driver has taken a break in the wagon as it was either him or the battery (or him with no legs - John wasn’t happy chopping someone else’s models up) so I may do a head and shoulders for the loco.

Edited by cornamuse
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Been putting that off myself, trying to work it out. In the end, the same way as my white metal ones- a hole drilled through the shank of the buffer (widest point) then an n shaped metal rod between the buffers through the holes. Buffers never touch, but they can’t lock either, so not too bad. Easy and looks ok. Hole almost splits the nail in 2 - did on one of them- but the card and superglue seem to be holding everything together. As usual the aim is adequate to expected strength needs, rather than perfect engineering. Oh and nearly free- that’s important too :)

Edited by cornamuse
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