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The Bunny Mine (cakebox)


riscosuser
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Ever feel you are being goaded into doing projects?

 

With Maderia Meadows it was all about what can you fit into a mere 64 sq inches. Hence a circle of Gn15 track.

 

With this new project, the conversation went, "But you can only fit a circle of track in"!!

 

So with this project, I'm looking to fit in a passing loop and a siding.

 

Since I'm a member of the 7mmNGA, seems 7mm scale is the way to go on this one. I've had to go for 09 just to get everything in.

 

A little bit of planning on this one.  Stage one build the track & test. Then build the scenery around it.

 

Stage 2 will be an Arduino project to control/animate the layout.

 

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I've done a rough plan, the slightly scary bit being the nominal 2" points.

 

Goes without saying this will be all copper-clad construction.

 

This is more of a proof of concept I'm already thinking of adding more curves.

 

The passing loop will be hidden inside the mine.

 

post-23137-0-88496400-1523299887.gif

 

 

 

 

 

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"The Bunny Mine", a bit of an unusual name! Is called this because it will be staffed/worked by long-eared creatures perhaps!?!?

 

But joking aside, it looks a rather interesting and ambitious project, and I look forward to seeing how it develops. :)

Edited by Andrew Cockburn
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Like the sound of this. I'm working on a 19cm by 19cm 09 layout as well (not as a cakebox challenge though) . It's a squeeze but everything works fine. What stock do you plan to run on it?

 

I was originally looking at something based on a Kato 103 chassis.

 

However A1 models do a kit based on the Tomytec HM-01 chassis this has a much smaller wheelbase. So I've got 2 of these.

 

I've gone for the Minimum Gauge Models estate flat trucks, these are almost solid brass when built. I've built one, one to build and I think I will need 2 more.

 

I'm going to use Kato wheels which means modifying the MGM chassis or doing my own. (the axles are shorter than Pecos).

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Took a picture to show the difference between the two chassis.

 

Hm-01 to the left 16mm between centres.

 

Kato 103 centre 28mm between centres.

 

post-23137-0-76044100-1523650863_thumb.jpg

 

(N.B. chassis are not fixed in at the moment)

Edited by riscosuser
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The stock looks very interesting. Are you still powering the middle wagon rather than the loco?

Middle loco is actually a MGM Lister, this is the one with the Kato 103 chassis. The A1 models to the left uses the Tomytec Hm-01 chassis.

 

Had a quick walk around the engine & carriage sheds at Ravenglass saw this Lister, which could be used as a basis for the model.

 

post-23137-0-64505000-1523822295_thumb.jpg

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After trying to get my head around templot2 (and failing). Ended up going old school, paper, compass and ruler.

 

Initial layout.

 

post-23137-0-97083400-1524504829_thumb.jpg

 

Found a length of n gauge track while gardening ...so may not need to weather! It is wrecked but is donating its rail.

 

 

 

 

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Looking very good with some tight curves. Was the 'found' track from a garden railway?

The found track, I suspect is approx 20 years old. I built a rabbit layout for the kids when they were small. I think this section may have been a "sword"

 

I literally dug it up. Bent, twisted and much of the sleeper webbing damaged.

 

I'm noticing the corrosion is flaking off in places, so much for external weathering!

 

Minimum internal radius is 2", basic testing has confirmed the Tomytec chassis is the correct choice over the Kato.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Had a bit of a modelling gap. Hence lack of updates.

 

Completed the points and then did a test run. All OK.

 

I found the hard way that the PVA I used was water soluble after I used acrylic as a base colour.

 

So I cleaned everything off and sprayed the base with grey primer.

 

I then used solvent adhesive to secure the track painting visible sleepers and track.

 

Next the scenery!

 

post-23137-0-45955000-1526483579_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Seems like you've had a problem or two re the tracklaying!

 

Me personally, I've always used superglue/UHU for track laying/fixing, while I've always given the trackbed/baseboard coating of matt black, grey orwhatever beforehand, a method I've found pretty much foolproof. But the track plan looks interesting, it will also be interesting to see how your scenery progresses.

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Well, that's the servo bases printed. Only need three but it was just as easy to do 3 of each (LH & RH).

 

Just need to build them up now.

 

First time I've done these so need to check clearances they need to fit under the board.

 

post-23137-0-71837400-1526645183_thumb.jpg

Edited by riscosuser
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