Solidworks, oh Solidworks...

[sem34090]

Has anyone else attempted to use this software for creating model railway items?

 

I was bought a licence by a relative back at Christmas, but could not work out how to import a drawing (As in an image) into the program then scale it to a particular size, something that I can do very easily in sketchup.

 

I want to get to use this better software, but this is the one problem holding me back: how to import a drawing to then create a model from. I know that images can be imported, but how easily can they be scaled? If  not, is there another way of creating a model based on the prototype that can be made in 4mm, 7mm, etc?

 

Any responses very gratefully received!
 

E. Missenden

[brack]

I've always preferred to print out scale drawings and work from them with callipers and ruler rather than trace. Somehow it's easier to measure then make line X 32.25mm long than to try and trace. That might be just me though. Can't help with SOLIDWORKS I'm afraid as I use Rhino.

[rab]

Is it a full licence, or a 'cut down' version.

I had a similar problem with Solid Edge,

which I was using when I was working.

I downloaded the freebee version but found

I could only create new files, not modify

existing ones; having said that the files

I had were 2D files from a 3D model which

I dont thibk helped.

[rab]

Duplicate post deleted

Edited April 22, 2018 by rab

[TurboSnail]

I also use brack's method above of printing drawings and getting my calculator out, however I'd probably use yours if I had a good source proper drawings rather than perspective-altered photos or scans of drawings. I use SolidEdge (the poor man's SolidWorks) but IIRC from my brief experiences with 'works you may be able to do a similar trick of creating a block or surface, then attaching the image to that. Then change the size of the block/surface to scale the image.

 

Another trick that might be useful is not bothering to scale it at all while building, then scale it when finished by creating a new part with a scaled copy of the model - this works much better if you work in assemblies rather than making the entire thing as one part as you can do it once, then rattle off several versions in different scales.

[brack]

I'd also add that I've seen enough drawings that didn't match the correct dimensions. If you're tracing, you'll perpetuate any error in drawings, if you're using a dimensioned print out you're less likely to get caught out. I've often used a scaled GA or pipe diagram - if there's a quoted dimension on there I'd always follow that rather than what the ruler says.

[Knuckles]

I'm also with brack and TurboSnail.

 

I prefer to print out paper and use a ruler etc. More 'real' amongst our digital world.

 

I usually go through 3-20 bits of A4 paper before I am happy the scale is correct mind!

 

Also as brack said the scale drawings are not always that good at upholding their own name.

 

Too many times the odd dimension will be off, worse still is you (I) often obtain a bunch of scale drawings before designing starts and once they are all scaled then surprise surprise they can't agree everywhere, and I'm not talking about basic detail variations.

 

What do you do if on one drawing a line, say a cab height is 10mm and on another 12? If you can't find published text stating what it should be you have an difficult judgement call to make. Go with 10,12 or split the difference and compromise on 11?

 

Sometimes for certain detail areas you have to ignore the drawings and go with the photographs as the latter sometimes trump all the drawings. I could never understand why a Bachmann Tornado was different in dimensions to a Hornby one for example....but I

Do now.

 

Sad issue we are faced with that shouldn't exist.

 

Never used Solid works so sorry for being no use there. Just thought I'd take opportunity to bolster the above two opinions.

[rue_d_etropal]

I always work from drawings, measuring them carefulty. Combined with actual measurements of real item, I often find errors in official drawings. I tend tostart with a drawing toO scale, as it is big enough, and fits on 1 or 2 sheets of paper. For smaller items Ihave gone up to 1/32 initially, and even bigger.

For me main consideration is being able to print out a drawing on paper. If I actually get it lined up properly, I can get a gragh paper design printed over the top.

Once I have design, I can then do a drawing from the CAD software and compare it to drawing (tend to only do this when I an unsure on some details because original drawing was not as clear as it should be).

Resizing any of my designs is relatively easy, most of my standard gauge is in N, TT3, HO,OO, O and G1 . I can add others if asked.

 

I tend to initially design for WSF tolerences, then fine tune them for FUD and FED. What I refer to as finescale N, is simply the HO scale one resized. I can do a fine scale OO one by resizing the O scale one. Only tend todo this is something on a design has to be very thin like a cab roof, and I am working on some industrial type locos with that at the moment.

[Spitfire2865]

Ive done Clives method before for a solidworks course back in Uni, but for drawing model parts, I always just do calculations myself.

If I really need to have a proper layout of components Ill make a line drawing in autocad and from simple 3 views, I can make each part separately in soidworks1 then import it all into an assembly to test and tweak.

And assemblies CAN be exported as a single .stl, though when saving you have to go into the advanced options and select "all as one stl" or something like that. Otherwise youre left with a strange hybrid file that wont work for 3D printing.

 

Its how I designed my G3 Neilson

(Old picture)

Chassis drawn in autocad, recreated in solidworks, assembly constructed, then parts made one by one and mated together.

That technique should work for smaller scales too, and itll allow you to mix and match a host of parts you create rather than recreating everything every time you build a new item.

[sem34090]

Cheers guys! I'll have to try that and report back!

[billbedford]

Drawings without dimensions aren't worth the paper they are printed on.

Edited April 23, 2018 by billbedford

[rue_d_etropal]

Trouble with photos is that depending on angle taken from, they can distort image, and relative position of items, I don't think even the software around to rejig images can adjust some things especially when part of what you are looking at is in front of the detail behind it. The distortion caused by the twist can't be corrected easily. I have been involved in a discussion about this and it is not easy when the real item no longer exists. At least with 3D printing it is relatiely easy to modify designs and then all new prints match new design. 

 

With respect to lack of dimensions on may drawings, there are sometimes dimensons to be found elsewhere, and with a bit of logic it is possible to get pretty close. Just ask anyone who grumbles to provide a better drawing, as it is only possible to do as much as the information provides. Itmay be a compromise, but something is better than nothing in my opinion.

 

I tend to start with designing model using what drawings and dimensions are available, and then see if photos show up any errors. It is too easty to say getting something accurate is most important thing, but there is a point at which you are spending more time adjusting something for very little benefit.

Most of us tend to work alone, and one recommendationis to get others to look at your design (3D image), as a fresh pair of eyes is the best way to find those small errors. Alternatively put it to one side and come back to it after a few days or weeks.

[rab]

Drawings without dimensions aren't worth the paper they are printed on.

Apologies if I've mentioned this before but

one of the things which persuaded me it was

time to get out of the drawing office was

when we had some drawings made by an

outside contractor.

 

When I began checking them I noticed

a lot of the dimensions were missing.

Their response, when I queried this,

"The drawings are taken from 3D models,

which will also been used to create

the moulds for the parts.

You only need a few overall dimensions

and dimensions affected by the opening

and closing of the mould".

They were right of course but as someone

who was used to getting their backside

kicked for issuing drawings with missing

dimensions, I found this really hard to

accept.

Edited April 23, 2018 by rab

[Spitfire2865]

Please do work from dimensions all the time if you can, the 3D printing files I thought this was for never print totally accurately any way, it's close but not perfect. I was hoping to just show how you insert pictures in SolidWorks if you need it. 

 

Here is a motorbike I created based on a tutorial I purchased online, this sort of thing is all dimension driven and helps to hone your skills.

Im not sure I like the tolerances of that fender.  But if thats made in solidworks, well done!

Ive never progressed much past attributing materials for basic static FEA analysis.