Parkside Buffers - What Solvent should I use?

[The Bigbee Line]

Good morning, stupid question time.

 

What is the best solvent to fix the ends on the Parkside buffer shanks.  I tried Revell Contacta Professional and it didn't touch it.  My MEK bottle has dried up.

 

 

Suggestions appreciated,

 

Thanks

 

Ernie

[Jintyman]

Good morning, stupid question time.

 

What is the best solvent to fix the ends on the Parkside buffer shanks.  I tried Revell Contacta Professional and it didn't touch it.  My MEK bottle has dried up.

 

buffer IMG_3478.jpg

 

Suggestions appreciated,

 

Thanks

 

Ernie

 

 

I believe it's a type of ABS plastic, so genuine MEK or Butanone is best really.

 

Jinty

[Dunsignalling]

I'm pretty sure they are made from ABS plastic, so you'll need Butanone. Most common model-shop brand is Plastic Weld. 

 

Butanone is actually Methyt Ethyl Ketone (M.E.K), but MekPak hasn't been for many years.

 

John

[bécasse]

One of the stronger pva (white) adhesives may be adequate, especially if you put a tiny cut across the bit that goes into the hole. It won't be as strong as a solvent weld would be, of course, but buffers take their main load in compression.

[Simond]

another vote for MEK - aka Butanone, available on eBay.  These are a right buffer to weld on, and they fall off if you don't get them with the real stuff.

 

I guess superglue would work at a push, if you roughen everything.

 

best

Simon

[brossard]

I've found CA works well on ABS, I used it on the buffers on my most recent kit.   Very much worth having some MEK on hand.

 

John

[66C]

Hi Ernie

 

Some parts in Parkside Dundas 7mm scale kits are moulded in ABS type plastic.  I also use EMA Model Supplies Plastic Weld as it works for both ABS and injection-moulded polystyrene.

 

Regards.

[The Bigbee Line]

Big thanks for all the advice.  A miracle has occurred.  A container marked Solvents hiding in the workshop revealed the treasure trove shown below...

 

Everything I need....

 

[pwr]

I always use Plastic Weld as it’s ABS. I always found MEK PAK wouldn’t touch it

 

Regards

 

Paul R

Edited April 27, 2018 by pwr

[Simond]

MEK PAK isn’t MEK any more

 

MEK is available in litres on eBay

 

Best

Simon

[markjj]

Plastic weld is the best glue to use as they are made from ABS. I fit mine on the blank end of a drill I think it's 1.9mm dia then you can pull the drill out when it's set it holds everything straight and keeps the inside glue free. If you are doing a lot buy cheap pack of 10 drills then you can batch glue/clean up. It's a lot easier to get the end ring true that way as well as they are often a bit out of true.

[John K]

Butanone every time.

John

[Rambler]

Only slightly off topic : I’d always assumed that the length of the Parkside buffers was correct, e.g. 1’ 6” for unfitted stock, but have recently realised that this isn’t always the case. If you want to tighten the nut up against the end of the threaded portion of the buffer shank (so you don’t need a lock nut, or glue, to fix them in place) then you may need to trim back the rear of the moulding. Typically this needs to be reduced to about 1mm, and is easier to do when the buffers aren’t glued into the wagon!

Eric Ramsay