Multimeter

[Satan's Goldfish]

Does that include old, broken strimmers?

 

Are they repairable?

[PatB]

Does that include old, broken strimmers?

 

Well, they might come in handy for something......

[Tricky Dicky]

The continuity buzzer sounds good, but it doesn't seem to have many ranges. 

 

 

I find even the cheapest analogue meter superior to the most expensive digital when searching for faults in inaccessible places as you can hear the needle clicking against its stop and see the needle moving where digital numbers are fluctuating so wildly as to be unreadable.

 

Off Topic but   Do be very careful with electrics if you involve a professional electrician from a well established local firm.   We ended up with live screws, 240 volt, in the switch in our pre school room after a visit by "Professionals" who somehow managed to connect the metal Patress box to live.   See Pics.   My Multimeter came from Hardings Cheltenham High Street. It works.  As does my analogue one.

Had to do a double take on the photos. David you have three hands!

 

Richard

[kevinlms]

My continuity buzzer sounds OK and it only has two ranges. Buzz or no-buzz........

 

Coat/hat etc........

 

Mick

Buzz off?

[kevinlms]

Although I have a multimeter it gets very little use. My main electrical testing tool is a continuity tester (buzzer and light when circuit made) which I’ve found to be invaluable when trying to find faults in my layout wiring.

 

Perhaps one of the modelling magazines could include an article on ‘how to get the best use out of a multimeter.

Just be aware that sometimes, the buzzer will sound if the resistance is low, but not zero. For example, it will probably buzz for a solenoid (Peco) point motor. If you are getting odd results, use a multimeter set to a the low resistance setting (usually 200 ohms) and find out exactly what the resistance is.

[newbryford]

Just be aware that sometimes, the buzzer will sound if the resistance is low, but not zero. For example, it will probably buzz for a solenoid (Peco) point motor. If you are getting odd results, use a multimeter set to a the low resistance setting (usually 200 ohms) and find out exactly what the resistance is.

 

 

I have multimeter made by The Borg. However, it only has amps and volts ranges, but no ohms settings, as "Resistance is Futile".............

 

 

Coat, hat and out of the door running.

 

Cheers,

Mick

[michaelp]

Does that include old, broken strimmers?

 

I've got an old broken down boiler, but she's good to the kids!

[WIMorrison]

Haven't seen this mentioned but you should consider buying one that is True RMS - not so important with mains as an average RMS will work with the 50hz, but if you decide to go DCC at a future time you need True RMS..

 

It will cost a couple of quid more, the Aneng 8002 and 8008 from a well know online market are remarkably good value and worth looking at.

Edited May 4, 2018 by WIMorrison

[Right Away]

The multimeter is an indispensable instrument for the tracing of faults and identification of circuitry and components etc.

However, if ever there is a running problem and a suspected lack of juice I reach first for my home made track tester comprising of an LED, resistor and stiff copper wire (as contact pick-ups), all attached to a small offcut of Plasticard. Cost was negligible as it was made from bits from the junk drawer.

Always at hand, it and can readily identify rail conductivity issues by simply sliding along the track.

Then I put the kettle on!

[RAF96]

If you intend to do motor stall checks then be aware some meters only handle 200mA DC current, you need one with a 10A range (most meters use these as their standard selection ranges). If you try to stall check on the milliamp range meters the internal fuse blows.

 

Also check if it does the full range of AC and DC functions - i.e. volts, amps and of course the normal resistance ranges. Some have diode checkers handy for proving leds are intact and beepers for when you can’t see the meter checks.

 

Rob

[kevinlms]

If you intend to do motor stall checks then be aware some meters only handle 200mA DC current, you need one with a 10A range (most meters use these as their standard selection ranges). If you try to stall check on the milliamp range meters the internal fuse blows.

 

Also check if it does the full range of AC and DC functions - i.e. volts, amps and of course the normal resistance ranges. Some have diode checkers handy for proving leds are intact and beepers for when you can’t see the meter checks.

 

Rob

Also in most multimeters the positive terminal needs to be moved to the 10A socket.