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Burton-on-Trent South - Adding Buildings


ISW
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  • RMweb Gold
41 minutes ago, ISW said:

I think I'd need to 'strengthen' the plywood box of the panel, as the 5mm ply of the base and the 4 sides are only PVAed together.

Depends how hard you lean on the panel in use!

:-)

You have understood their mode of operation.  You might want to experiment on scrap to start with as it’s a bit ‘one chance only’ for alignment when you screw them down.  I also had to be careful selecting screws as the countersink isn’t very deep.  I think I ended up with No.6.

Paul.

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11 hours ago, 5BarVT said:

 I also had to be careful selecting screws as the countersink isn’t very deep.  I think I ended up with No.6.

Paul,

 

Plus I have the problem of attaching said screws to 5mm plywood. I have to look through my stash of small screws to see if anything is suitable.

 

Ian

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  • RMweb Gold
23 minutes ago, ISW said:

Paul,

 

Plus I have the problem of attaching said screws to 5mm plywood. I have to look through my stash of small screws to see if anything is suitable.

 

Ian

Could add an off cut inside the box to double up where you need the screws?

Glue them in place first for extra stability. 

 

Paul

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3 minutes ago, Joner said:

Could add an off cut inside the box to double up where you need the screws?

Glue them in place first for extra stability. 

 

Paul

Paul,

 

My thoughts exactly. However, I don't want the 'strengtheners' on the outside of the panel plywood box, and inside there is very little room indeed. I was surprised when the lid of the panel actually screwed down and 'crushed' the 'rats nest' of cables into the 40mm internal space.

 

Maybe a couple of judiciously located 5mm strengtheners inside the panel, where there are least cables, might be an option.

 

After a bit of thought on the location of the 'angling timber' (to give the panel a ~45-deg viewing angle) I'm inclined (sorry, no pun intended ...) to install them on the baseboard. That'll make the mimic panel flat-bottomed and easier to use in other locations.

 

Ian 

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13 hours ago, ISW said:

I think I'd need to 'strengthen' the plywood box of the panel, as the 5mm ply of the base and the 4 sides are only PVAed together.

I would try gluing some scraps together to see how strong the joins might be; I think you might be surprised. I've just screwed and wood glued some 12mm wide supports to some 6mm ply but then wanted to move some of them; on removing the screws there was no way I was going to break the join without breaking the wood itself. I ended up sawing the supports (almost) flush because the glue joint was rock solid.

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  • RMweb Gold

How about this tablet holder? Its adjustable in 3 positions by you can add more if required. I'm sure it was about a tenner from IKEA but you get the idea. The base takes up less footprint and you can move it to different area's. 16152035118225332092719370693097.jpg.8b6f59db22c19fbe8fc948193bb89967.jpg16152035308346050057063623708363.jpg.fd775d656dc8e4b83afd9faf0795ec6d.jpg

The Bluetack is there as an extra position for my son's online lessons.

 

Paul 

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4 hours ago, Phil Himsworth said:

I would try gluing some scraps together to see how strong the joins might be; I think you might be surprised.

Phil,

 

I'm in no doubt regarding the strength of wood glued with PVA. I used some 'offcuts' of 5mm ply to raise my servos off the underside of the baseboard to increase the effective lever arm. I can't see them ever coming off!

 

Ian

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3 hours ago, Joner said:

How about this tablet holder? Its adjustable in 3 positions by you can add more if required. I'm sure it was about a tenner from IKEA but you get the idea. The base takes up less footprint and you can move it to different area's. 16152035118225332092719370693097.jpg.8b6f59db22c19fbe8fc948193bb89967.jpg

Phil,

 

You aren't a part-time mind reader are you? It was something 'like' the Ikea tablet holder that I originally had in mind. I was trying to find a method to attach it to the side of the baseboard such that it was ~50% above & below the top of the baseboard. It keeps the mimic panel separate.

 

I think there is a 'solution' to be had between the Ikea tablet holder and the ScrewFix flush mounts that I could cobble together using the many offcuts of timber I have from the baseboard constructions.

 

Ian

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On 08/03/2021 at 14:57, Joner said:

Quickly drawn and very crude!

 

You just have the mounts dotted around your board without getting in your way .

 

Paul

Paul,

 

Yep, that's the sort of thing I was imagining. Here's a quick drawing I did:

mp.jpg.afb838e874f755d08cac242995731f71.jpg

 

All sizes and lengths 'subject to change without notice' to suit the scrap pipe of timber offcuts I already have.

 

Ian

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Ian

 

i have something similar to attach my panel to my baseboard. The panel is below my baseboard at a 45 degree  angle secured with several pieces of wood as shown below which I have found very effective and easy to use. 


CB6A82E5-636E-437E-9FC8-C0D3B3EAE047.jpeg.3b349faa3a7290563086637b5f5f0734.jpeg

75EE6E18-0436-4622-B59F-599010DB7515.jpeg.31617a2c7b4d4739cb04b879b2fcdfbf.jpeg

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5 minutes ago, young37215 said:

CB6A82E5-636E-437E-9FC8-C0D3B3EAE047.jpeg.3b349faa3a7290563086637b5f5f0734.jpeg

Rob,

 

That's a nice piece of panel installation you have there. And plenty of space underneath for the inevitable 'rats nest' of cables ....

 

Ian

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  • RMweb Gold
32 minutes ago, ISW said:

Rob,

 

That's a nice piece of panel installation you have there. And plenty of space underneath for the inevitable 'rats nest' of cables ....

 

Ian

Thanks, it is a simple but effective panel with a veritable rats nest beneath.

 

The point I failed to make in my original post is that you may find any panel above the height of your baseboard a potential obstacle. I speak from experience hence why my panel is located where it is.

 

 

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1 hour ago, young37215 said:

The point I failed to make in my original post is that you may find any panel above the height of your baseboard a potential obstacle. I speak from experience hence why my panel is located where it is.

Rob,

 

A very good point that.

 

I was thinking of 30% above / 70% below the baseboard but, as usual it's all a compromise. In my case between:

  • Access to the layout
  • Access to the underside of the baseboard (for wiring etc.)
  • Intrusion into the 'operating space'

At least being removeable does help.

 

Ian

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22 minutes ago, Joner said:

Operating height should also be a consideration. Shouldn't need to lean over, even slightly when you're playing trains. 

 

Paul

Paul,

 

The Upper Level of the layout is between 1.0 & 1.1m in height (there is a slope around the layout), which will be comfortable for operation without leaning. However, for doing some of the scenics, I will need a step to be able to reach the far corners.

 

Ian

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Your soldering, wiring and mimic panels are immaculate and you should be very pleased.  Mine are nowhere near this standard.  However, I offer an idea for your consideration that you can install them either fully or partially on the layout inside buildings as I have done.  To demonstrate what I am suggesting I attach the following pics which should explain all.

IMG_20210309_163157.jpg.e5138474cc1389979aa82044ff08c263.jpg

The small panel "departures" controls the colour light signals and is mounted on the baseboard edge.

IMG_20210309_163001.jpg.ab69c1349936bfdf5e650d3393cc8555.jpg

The larger mimic panel partially overlaps the layout and is hinged at the front which together with removable buildings allows fault finding within the panel. The switches on the mimic panel control point switching and DC section switching between the two controllers.

IMG_20210309_163016.jpg.96e765ffd933f93f81898648863d91ed.jpg

This simple panel only provides DC section switching, points being controlled by WIT (wire in tube) and slide switches for frog polarity change - there are three visible here.  These later have been utterly reliable compared to the built in change over switches in the Seep point motors elsewhere on the layout.

 

When viewing these pics, it is best to avoid the unsightly under baseboard mess of wiring that lurks thereunder.

 

Regards,

Brian.

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49 minutes ago, Brian D said:

Your soldering, wiring and mimic panels are immaculate and you should be very pleased.  Mine are nowhere near this standard.  However, I offer an idea for your consideration that you can install them either fully or partially on the layout inside buildings as I have done.  To demonstrate what I am suggesting I attach the following pics which should explain all.

IMG_20210309_163157.jpg.e5138474cc1389979aa82044ff08c263.jpg

The small panel "departures" controls the colour light signals and is mounted on the baseboard edge.

IMG_20210309_163001.jpg.ab69c1349936bfdf5e650d3393cc8555.jpg

The larger mimic panel partially overlaps the layout and is hinged at the front which together with removable buildings allows fault finding within the panel. The switches on the mimic panel control point switching and DC section switching between the two controllers.

Brian,

 

Thank you for the complement. I do 'try' to keep things neat, logical, and tidy as much as possible. If I didn't, I simply wouldn't enjoy the outcome!

 

What I have in mind for the my mimic panel is something along the lines of your mimic panel, but mounted sort of like your departures panel. If that makes sense?

 

It might be a while before I have one done as I'm still trying to finish off my second mimic panel for the Upper Level baseboards. That's just missing 7 bush-button jumper cables, but I'm short of the crimp connectors for the ends of the wires that are on order. I hope to have it all done this week though.

 

55 minutes ago, Brian D said:

When viewing these pics, it is best to avoid the unsightly under baseboard mess of wiring that lurks thereunder.

In the week or so ahead I'm hoping to take delivery of a mini camera to mount on a wagon. Then I'll be able to create a 'wagons eye' run around the layout, in which the underside of the Upper Level baseboards will in in view. Another good reason for keeping the wiring tidy.

 

Ian 

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Upper Level Baseboards - Mimic Panel A Complete

 

With the arrival, hurrah:good:, of some more crimp connectors, I've been able to make up the missing 7 jumper cables to complete Mimic Panel A. Here it is in its assembled glory:

1628194596_20210310_152626-UpperLevelMimicPanelB_resize.jpg.a4deb0d2759fc52f5b7111c89756af39.jpg

 

As before, the 'calm exterior' hides a 'rats nest' of cables on the inside, as shown below. You may also note the turnout listing to aid future troubleshooting and/or repairs. I also included a 'mirrored' view of the mimic layout in the bottom of the box (Architects would call this a 'reflected ceiling plan').

472669306_20210310_152734-UpperLevelMimicPanelB_resize.jpg.37f14178319eb4af41963bb4abbd7901.jpg

 

In both of the Mimic Panels the LEDs are obscured by the paper of the mimic diagram. Even after toning down the brightness of the LEDs (with 24k resistors) they are bright enough to penetrate the paper. This was a 'happy accident':fool: as I originally intended to cut (punch) circular holes at each LED position. However, I much prefer the 'flush' look of the panel like this.

 

Ian

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  • ISW changed the title to Burton-on-Trent South - Rolling Stock Fettling

Rolling Stock

 

During the construction of the Upper Level baseboards and subsequent tracklaying, all my rolling stock was banished back to their boxes (or into suitable containers where there was no box).

 

I decided that now would be a good time to return the rolling stock to the layout. But instead of just 'plonking' it all back on the track, I decided to take the opportunity to clean the wheels, some of which have never been cleaned! Thus commenced quite a marathon session of wheel cleaning of ~60 wagons, mostly 4-wheel but with a smattering of bogie bolster wagons. The cleaning was done with my 'dremel' like device with an extension lead. Metal wheels were cleaned with a steel brush head, and plastic wheels (yes, I have rather too many of those) with a nylon brush head. This worked very well, and I hardly had to succumb to IPA except a few where the muck/dirt smeared on the wheel tread.

 

In tandem with the wheel cleaning exercise I slowly compiled a spreadsheet of each of the wagons. I already had a good list of coaches in Excel, and the locos are in the JMRI database. My fields for the wagon spreadsheet were:

  • Manufacturer
  • Model Ref.
  • Number Carried
  • Wagon Type
  • Wheel Material
  • Wheel Type
  • Coupler Type
  • NEM Pockets? (yes/no)
  • Markings
  • Have Box? (yes/no)
  • Remarks

I was surprised at the variety of wheels that I had with wheel tyre, wheel, and axle in various combinations of metal and plastic. The 'wheel type' is for solid / 3-hole / spoked / etc.

 

Ian

 

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A First Video

 

Please bear with me on this one as I've not done many videos, and I've certainly not uploaded one to YouTube before, so this could all end horribly. If, and it's a big 'if', I've done it correctly their should be a video of the layout available at:

 

 

The video takes you on a tour of the southbound track, starting on the Upper Level in the station platform on the SB Slow track, goes round the Upper Level, down the 3-Track Ramp, around the Lower Level, back up the 2-Track Ramp, and finishes back in the station on the same track. Salient 'features' are annotated in the video to help understanding of the layout.

 

Fingers crossed ...

 

Let me know if anything is unclear or confusing.

 

Ian

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Video source corrected.
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Hi Ian,

Excellent video. Seeing the layout in the flesh, from the drivers perspective, along with the captions, really gives a flavour of the length of run and scope of the layout you have created with the various (3 iirc?) levels.

 

Seeing the mimic panel above also shows what a labour of love just the wiring involved on your layout evidently is!

 

Very nice work.

 

Martyn.

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10 hours ago, Signaller69 said:

Hi Ian,

Excellent video. Seeing the layout in the flesh, from the drivers perspective, along with the captions, really gives a flavour of the length of run and scope of the layout you have created with the various (3 iirc?) levels.

 

Seeing the mimic panel above also shows what a labour of love just the wiring involved on your layout evidently is!

 

Very nice work.

 

Martyn.

Martyn,

 

Glad you enjoyed the video. I'm trying to 'get to grips' with video editing, which is currently still a bit of a pain. However, I wanted to include the 'captions' to aid with explanation of the Layout.

 

The layout has 2 levels, a Lower Level (where the storage sidings are located) that is completely flat, and the Upper Level (scenic) that spirals down by 100mm to pass underneath itself. The Upper Level also incorporates a small 'sunken' area to permit the Brewery Lines to pass under the Mainlines (whilst being 'just' clear of the 2-Track ramp immediately beneath it).

 

As I made the baseboards to be removable, and I knew the undersides would be in view from any 'on track' videos, I felt it was important to do a reasonably tidy job of the wiring. To aid visibility it was also important to include the LED lighting on the underside of the Upper Level.

 

I'm trying to keep record drawings of the wiring to aid in any future 'works'. This has recently included going back to draw up the Lower Level 'Power District' and 'MegaPoints Controller' diagrams in the same vein as I did for the Upper Level.

 

Ian

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Rolling Stock Fettling - Coaches

 

With the wagons 'fettled', aka cleaning the wheels of gunk:danced:, it was time to move onto the coaching stock. Here is what I'm facing in Box 1::O

20210316_172613_resize.jpg.271ff7a4bd58b4b53f525eabb4b3634e.jpg

 

A complete 'sea' of Lima coaches, almost all of which I bought back-in-the-day around 1981. All have already been equipped with Kadee couplings, and 'flush' windows fitted (SE Finecast type). The interiors have been painted in representative colours and, on the exterior, have been renumbered according to the RCTS Coaching Stock book of 1976 and coach end labels added. Oh, and the Buffet coaches have have commonwealth bogies installed.

By my reckoning that's 200 wheels to clean. Oh goody ...:scare:

 

Ian 

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