Jump to content
 

Class 66 in OO Gauge - New Announcement


Hattons Dave
 Share

Recommended Posts

I now have five models, all GBRf & Freightliner celebrities.

66789, 66783, 66587 & 66623 are very good runners and cosmetically good (two were exchanged to get to this situation)

I have now took the plunge to remove all the Axle Box covers from my 66780 Cemex liveried one and its now running flawlessly, I have received large bag of Axle Box covers to refit myself. The one's removed are absolutely covered in glue along the stems and rear of the axle box cover.

Just need to clean up the holes with the adhesive and then I'm sure I can get a better result myself. 

Edited by martin_l_jones
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, atom3624 said:

I found it was quite difficult to ensure totally centred.

 

You've done well to remove AB covers caked in glue, that won't help.

We've all found there's very little purchase onto the axle.

 

Hope you're successful.

 

Al.

 

I opened up the holes in the axle box slightly so they sat flat onto the wheel on the odd ones I've had to replace that have fallen off. So will do the same again. You can see the glue on the ones I've removed against the two new ones on the right. You can see all the excess adhesive on the bogies.

 

20200902_100308.jpg

15990395070372088331489433764320.jpg

Edited by martin_l_jones
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Roy Langridge said:

 

I didn't mean it in a negative way at all, simply that Kernow can get their products distributed without falling foul of any Ts&Cs, benefiting from those sales without any risk to current operations.


Roy

 


You must be like me and have pages open for a while when your working as I had taken that down having re-read thread. It does look to me as if Bachmann can pick and choose what does and what does not fall foul - which is very convenient for them. 

Anyway, back to 66s...  

Link to post
Share on other sites

So I've had a successful morning and decided to capture what I've done to refit the Axle Boxes.

 

The one's I received from Hattons look as though they have already been fitted but probably fallen off with insufficient glue.

 

So the first thing I did was run a 0.9mm drill down the hole to get the glue out, I then cleaned up the edge of the hole in the Axle Box using a 2mm diameter drill just touching the front face only of the Axle. 

 

20200903_173533_resized.jpg.a07532aefac1e4614e0e4a1928b9a97c.jpg

 

I then checked they were standing straight and if not used a needle file to flatten off the mating face to the wheel if necessary.

 

20200903_171746_resized.jpg.eab2baaf3aa2ddb4ebf44c5e0e392c07.jpg

I cleaned off all the glue residue from the bogies, basically all the white marks around the holes, (pictures in previous posts), using some iso cleaner on a cotton bud and ran a drill down the hole in the bogie to get rid of any glue in the hole.

 

It was then  a case of a dab of Gel Super Glue on a pin and touching the Axle on the wheel and then putting a small blob into the hole of the AB.

 

20200903_172608_resized.jpg.085add899b0026e872a4663fd5b3d4cd.jpg

 

I put the loco in a poly cradle upside down to access the wheels.

 

Carefully using long nosed pliers I pushed the AB's through the holes and against the wheel, having the slightly larger hole illiminates forcing them onto the Axle and I find keeps them central on the wheel. I lay the loco onto its side to allow the AB's to fall into the recess to help centralise before the glue went off completely.

 

I did three wheels on one side of the bogie then track tested each time to ensure no wobble.

20200903_173326_resized.jpg.955b64d1ac305ccf5539e191980ac680.jpg

20200903_171859_resized.jpg.79ef4ab36f2d9e15d846058dcee74f14.jpg

20200903_171809.jpg.aaa48e00e9aa364cd25f01431e61d06a.jpg

20200903_172403_resized.jpg.f435fafde933d5046a4702b2c3ef1408.jpg

 

Pleased to say no issues, although lost one AB on the second loop, due to insufficient glue, but rather have that than too much glue everywhere and wobble !!

 

Whilst I appreciate we shouldn't really be doing this as its cosmetically good I'd rather have a wobble free locomotive than keep returning it for replacement...

 

Next task is to black out the seepage from the main headlight on the roof of the loco..

 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Not seen many efforts to renumber locos yet, I experimented yesterday with what takes the transfers off well as I had enamel thinners out for another project, and it took this 1 off with a cocktail stick in seconds after some gentle rubbing. 

 

Loco destined to become 66560. Just to clarify, I don't believe there are any external differences between a bug eyed 66/5 and 66/6, unless someone can tell me otherwise?

20200906_141944_copy_1024x752.jpg.a50956f7d7313cfbd4a6c2e0ca9e67ee.jpg

 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 25/08/2020 at 16:46, AY Mod said:

 

As you would expect really. None of us outside the discussions know enough to make judgment calls (Rumsfeld's unknown unknowns) so I will ask that we don't go into speculation, supposition or assumption of that topic. Back to 66s please.

 

You mean known unknowns. We know Hattons don't stock Bachmann but the reason is unknown.

Edited by maico
  • Agree 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s a good solution Eric.

I can’t be arsed with all the fiddling so am adressing one of the bachy 66 main failings by adapting the air dam to take a TL coupling through it .

 

the other thing that is glaring is the light set up

Edited by rob D2
  • Thanks 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

Well spent the day assembling one bogie with the longer axles,sleeves and cut down details i have had made,its running on rollers and is flawless.

Tried to upload a little vid off my i phone but will not play ball but after three hours running not a flicker and with the old axlebox design the just about jump off the rollers.

This will run the life of the model now,so pleased,a few mods to make them a little easier and i will attack the sound fitted celebs,so pleased with how they can be made run.

IMG_0328.JPG

IMG_0327.JPG

Oh I say, isn't that just the job! Well done ... a day in the shed with the lathe tomorrow, I think.

  • Like 2
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 07/09/2020 at 05:52, SouthernMafia said:

Just to clarify, I don't believe there are any external differences between a bug eyed 66/5 and 66/6, unless someone can tell me otherwise?

Generally no differences, something that applies to both the 66/5s and 66/6s are variations in the depth of the yellow around the buffers depending on batch and the rain strip over the door is larger on the very last few '4 door' locos (same as on the low emission locos), but this is very subtle and not something Hattons have tooled for.

 

Jo

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I have an EWS 66005 that I pre-ordered and it duly arrived "ok" - a few loose axle box ends, one loose handrail and a couple of small glue marks. Nothing that I could not fix / live with.

 

I had, however, been at a loss as to whether I bit-the-bullet and order another one, which I did after much thought and it has just arrived. This one is a plain DRS 66429.

 

 What can I report? No glue marks, grills perfectly applied, the couple loose from the detailed end and one loose axle box end. All of that is ok.


But, now the problem, two of the axle box ends have been refitted with so much glue that they are stuck to both the axle and bogie frame. This means those two axles are hard over to one side and, yep, the wheels are not in line! I can't even get it to sit on the rolling road to test run (and I assume those two axles won't want to rotate anyway).

 

I know other people have had axle box ends stuck to bogie side frames. How have you removed them? Did you just use brute force or did you manage to soften the glue somehow? Any advice much appreciated.

 

Edit: I have now managed to remove the stuck able box ends. There was enough play in the bogie side frames to be able to squeeze them inwards and break the glue joint. One was stuck on one side only, the other on both sides and was much harder to get them off. Now for the rolling road before opening the holes up slightly and refitting the ends.

 

Edit 2: now sat on the rolling road. Shed (no pun intended) another couple of axle box ends (so it now only has 6 out of 12). Has a very slight wobble, but to be honest I find that on my rolling road anyway. Generally very happy with this one and will order sound + EM2 for it shortly.

 

My 66 also came with a free long blonde hair wrapped round the fuel tank. Not sure which I will get in more trouble with the wife for, another loco or the hair ;)

 

Thanks in advance,

Roy

Edited by Roy Langridge
Update on progress x 2
  • Like 1
  • Informative/Useful 2
  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

50 minutes ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

It would appear that quite a few of the sound fitted models have come back into stock if ayone who missed the first batch is wanting one,must have got more delivered.........

 

Possibly returns or Hattons have started to retro-fit their DCC Ready versions with DCC Sound considering the sound versions were all sold out on pre-order or soon after a quite a while back now.

There are more than 10 of the GBRf LL 66789's and quite a few Biffa's which is very surprising, plus a good DCC Sound selection of the others especially the DB/EWS variants.

I'm quite tempted but not confident in regards to the QC and especially those AB's & wobbles...damned if you do, damned if you don't.

Edited by classy52
  • Like 1
  • Agree 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Ran My Freightliner 66957 for 1.5 hours today with various loads, no problems whatsoever, all AB cover in place. I used the superglue on the end method which seem to have worked very well. The only other thing I did was smear the AB covers with some graphite lubricant (the dry stuff that Kadee do) and this appears to have had a good effect with no wobble etc..

I also ran My Hornby 'Capt.Tom' in the same session, although not in the same league as the Hattons models it performed excelently pulling all that was asked of it. The sound on it is a TTS decoder with an EM2 and an iphone speaker attached, lovely sounds form those speakers, much quieter and gentler than the legoman fitted loco, but very nice all the same. I have a light kit for the Hornby 66 which I will fit in the future, but for now I have two 66s in my yard which I am very pleased with.

Edited by 7013
clarifying a point.
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Anybody had a go at converting one of these to EM/P4? Quite tempted by an early numbered EWS one, however would appreciate any info on converting them from anyone who has had a go. Are Hattons using 2mm axles and is there enough room for the increased wheel width?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Will

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

ive reaxled one to make it more reliable,i guess you would P4 it ok but EM might be a challenge,if you look back in the thread i have pictures of work ive done to keep the rotating axle and make it run true,and yes they are 2mm axles.


Thanks Eric much appreciated. I’m assuming you mean EM’ing will be easier as opposed to P4? Due to the wider back to back and smaller flangers I imagine P4 will be a challenge and EM hopefully shouldn’t be too difficult.
 

Is there a lot of room between the outside of the wheels and the bogie sideframes? I bit the bullet last night and ordered a sound EWS one, so looking forward to getting my hands on it now! 
 

Kind regards,

 

Will

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I'm going to be needing a couple of Class 66's soon but given the issue's Hatton's are having with theirs, I'm seriously considering giving them a wide berth.  I know the Bachmann version is considered inferior to the Hatton's version but like the real thing, they run first time, every time straight from the box.  I'd love to support Hatton's with their Class 66's but to be honest, I don't need the grief of returning one or both if their faulty.

  • Agree 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Strikes me thats it a bit of a pity the Hatton's shop/showroom is still closed. With all the issues the 66's have had it would probably make people feel a lot more confident buying one if they could go to the shop and test it before making the purchase.

 

  • Like 1
  • Agree 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
1 hour ago, Kaput said:

...it would probably make people feel a lot more confident buying one if they could go to the shop and test it before making the purchase.

 

 

I see where you're coming from, but that's possibly not Hattons' top priority in making the decision regarding their shop...

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

I just dont get why folks come on and say they are going with the Bachmann one over the Hattons because of the running issue.

Remove the axle box caps and they run smooth as silk,pull more,are far more detailed,the sound versions have a far superior fun factor with the drivelock and lighting on tap,unless you want a large light one the big gripe is the wobble caused by glue on axle caps,if i was that bothered i would cut them off and glue them in,so its like the Bachmann one but better detailed......

 

But it's not just the wobble! Yet then, I am certainly not (re)buying Bachmann's 66s (other than kicking myself for selling all my 66s in expectation Hatton's would address the tooling errors and following livery errors). I am going with, come sometime in the future one of three things would have happened...

 

1. Hatton's bravely correct the tooling and address attention to the liveries on a '3rd' batch.

2. Someone else brings to market the definitive class 66 model (whether new tooling or having bought the Hatton's tooling and corrected it).

3. Hatton's reduce the price of their 66, meaning at a 'bargain' price I can accept the errors and QC bends 'n' breaks on arrival through the postal system. 

 

Of course, 1. is very unlikely to happen until 3. happens... One thing for certain, 2. shall happen in the next 10 years... 

 

So no thanks. I won't be buying Hatton's (for now) and nor shall I be buying Bachmann's...plenty of other hobbies and joys in life to focus on than craving a 66 model. 

 

  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...