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Class 66 in OO Gauge - New Announcement


Hattons Dave
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3 minutes ago, ayrmrg said:

Hi

 

You should be ok with the Freightliner green models. If you're not confident about fixing the axle box covers you'd best avoid. The light fix is only required for certain models with larger side lights. The orange one does look to light in colour. Stephen. 


Not all green ones are ok, some have the big lights. Up thread somewhere, Hattons Dave listed which models are impacted. 
 

Roy

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9 hours ago, markw said:

Yes, I have a pre owned sound fitted 66 756 that f0 turned on night lights and f22 didn't change between day and night.

I found all 6 of the switches set the wrong way, with the switches corrected it works ok now.

 

Ahhh, fair enough, if it's just a case of the switches being set incorrectly then no problem.  To be honest, all of the sound-fitted models I have all came with the switches set incorrectly.  At least the possibility of deeper issues are out-ruled.  :)

 

Al

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23 hours ago, GEARJAMMER said:

What im not confident about rectifying is the electronic side of things, folk have mentioned some lighting functions not working? I'm wondering if this just affects certain models or if its hit and miss? Im not actually to fussed about day/night functions, just so long as it has three white lights on the front and reds on the rear, i wont use the day/night function nor would i use cab lights. 

 

Lights:

 

Essentially, anything with the larger headlights (often referred to as 'bug-eye') are affected with the lighting issue...  

 

66406

 

Affected models are:

 

66404 DRS

66621 Freightliner

66418 Freightliner

66727 GBRf 'Barbie'

66740 GBRf

66847 Colas

66848 Colas

66743 GBRf/Royal Scotsman

66746 GBRf/Royal Scotsman

 

Hope that helps...

 

Best

Al

 

Edited by YesTor
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On 24/10/2020 at 14:18, Roy Langridge said:

A further update to my £120 pre-owned 66404. Following the excellent advice from Martin-C I have fixed the lighting so that the two marker lights work as they should. 
 

It took me about an hour and was fairly straightforward despite not having the steadiest of hands these days. 
 

My lighting PCBs were fairly well stuck and one was not in straight. I managed to remove them with a pair of parallel square nose pliers (a very useful tool) applying them across the width of the PCB and wiggling gently.  
 

In doing the job, two cab steps became detached removing the body and two steps from the dams fell off. Nothing too hard to remedy. 
 

Thanks Martin-C, your website was excellent. 
 

Roy

 

Pictures of this or an idiots guide step by step would be very, very useful

 

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2 hours ago, The Black Hat said:

Thanks Mick, 

 

I was hoping for some photos from Roys work then be able to compare and contrast how things have been done. 

 

David

 

Sorry, I didn't take any photos. The only difference was that I did not use tinned wire across the PCB. I used stranded 32awg wire and used the wire strippers to pull the sheath back exposing about 0.75mm about 10mm in to solder to one of the resistors and then stripped a similar amount from the end to attach to the other resistor. In that way, I did not have to make two joints to a surface mount resistor. I hope that makes sense?


Roy

 

 

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1 hour ago, adb968008 said:

So i decided to buy the very sorry looking colas 66 last weekend.. the one with the knarly grill on the roof.

 

Hahaaaa, I was incredibly tempted by that one too...  :lol:

 

It looks as though you've made a really nice loco out of it.  :)

 

Al

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when I read “glue” on the body, I do get nervous, but 
I have to admit to struggling to find some of the faults listed, they are very acceptable s/h condition locos.
 

The glue on my bogies & body was blobs with no attempt to remove, which are easier to lift off when dry, than where theyve been wiped.

 

This is its dance partner, it has a minor scratch, which doesnt show in photos, its too small, and a handrail needs resetting.8C3E6FFB-0DB8-4063-BE0B-0B3AA64A3E92.jpeg.8dbf4a852d0a0fac513897cb108064b0.jpeg

 


I may now have to buy another “parts” donor, just in case :D
 

Edited by adb968008
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3 hours ago, adb968008 said:

when I read “glue” on the body, I do get nervous, but 
I have to admit to struggling to find some of the faults listed, they are very acceptable s/h condition locos.
 

The glue on my bogies & body was blobs with no attempt to remove, which are easier to lift off when dry, than where theyve been wiped.

 

This is its dance partner, it has a minor scratch, which doesnt show in photos, its too small, and a handrail needs resetting.8C3E6FFB-0DB8-4063-BE0B-0B3AA64A3E92.jpeg.8dbf4a852d0a0fac513897cb108064b0.jpeg

 


I may now have to buy another “parts” donor, just in case :D
 

Perfect..are you going to tackle the lighting aswell? 

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38 minutes ago, gary_lner said:

Perfect..are you going to tackle the lighting aswell? 

Potentially, though its down the list.

 

i’ll want to sort the wheels first, I bought 4 altogether (A Freightliner and GBRf one too). Once they are up and running I may watch them do an RHTT for a bit.

 

Ive also got a GCR 0-6-2T and an NER 26500 (Yes i really do) that need a bit of tlc.

 

C76613D2-4B21-4FC4-BEA8-781477ED9269.jpeg.4229e6f0514ae5bfcecade5805ddab4d.jpeg

(Wobble and handrail scratch)

The handrail scratch ones are really easy to fix.

 

I bought a GBRf one, but an axle box was missing (it was present in the picture and not listed in the description as missing), theyve kindly offered to replace it.

029BD8EA-FD9B-470E-B54F-A2C7A7697443.jpeg.e8ccfd6f65522459021e71c56c78773c.jpeg
(bogie glue)

 

A few have minor paint scrapes on the black under frame Edges, but a permanent marker pen is more than sufficient to cover it.

 

Next job will be the wheels on one colas and the flt one, thought it turns out I didnt check, I already have the Freightliner 66504, and dont really need another in the swoosh livery, so I may look at another of the older Freightliner ones and let this one go.

 

I was really thinking one knacker, to strip for the others, and a low risk one to mess about with stripping down (i like stripping models to components and putting them back for fun), but the condition of them all is too good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by adb968008
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Just picked up my 2nd Class 66 66789 BR LL Sound Fitted for £245, description was Pre-owned - like new - good box which makes it another bargain.

I was notified of it because I had this in my Wishlist but strangely it wasn't listed anywhere under Hattons Originals pre-owned even if you filtered for 180 days, anyway really happy to get this one with sound.

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Fyi if anyone is in a conundrum about buying one with missing axle boxes, I thought i’d share this as an idea..
 

I was sizing up using a Hornby 66 bogie, to cut out the axle box file it and make into a Hattons axle box spare..

 

3BA5C3CF-BDA5-41E8-96FE-273F5FFB8978.jpeg.f64935267a76fe32ad2c829c81914142.jpeg

 

these bogies are cheap enough, circa £2.50 each, and you get 6 attempts at making axle boxes, though right now I don't need to, my GBRF one was supposed to have it and Hattons has offered to send a spare, but thought i’d share the idea for those thinking about others sold with missing axle boxes.
 

 

Edited by adb968008
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14 hours ago, adb968008 said:


Then the glue.. An ugly stain next to the access panel...094EC899-341E-4ACF-A513-4789AE99357A.jpeg.a75ac4f18e8ac7e42ec98e2d18d4b5d2.jpeg
 

A cocktail stick saw to that, and the marks on the bogie..

 

9EAC629A-4588-44D7-9DC2-06054C62F2C3.jpeg.723cbe59535c78bff430465468e785c0.jpeg

 

 

 

How did you remove the glue using the cocktail stick?

Was it just a matter of prying it off with the stick or did you use a chemical as well?

 

Cheers

Steve

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11 minutes ago, classy52 said:

 

How did you remove the glue using the cocktail stick?

Was it just a matter of prying it off with the stick or did you use a chemical as well?

 

Cheers

Steve

Just rubbed it.

if the glue is a “blob” The cocktail stick just pushes it off the surface not leaving a mark.

Worked on the bogies and the body.

 

I found around 8 minor blobs on the colas one, the biggest was the one pictured. The others had the odd 1mm or so sized bits here and there. As long as its a splash, and not squashed in or rubbed off I think it’ll be ok.

 

I was looking at the ECR one, but can see glue is in the window..not sure that one is so easy, clear plastic is less forgiving than varnished paint.


Whatever glue was used, I dont think it was superglue, maybe more UHU as it seems forgiving.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by adb968008
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Apologies in advance if i'm asking a question that has previously been covered but hopefully someone can help me out. 

I've just taken delivery of 66587 from the used selection available. All seems ok with it apart from there being a red glow that emits from the centre of the face. I'm presuming that the light can be switched off somehow but has anyone else encountered this issue?

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2 hours ago, adb968008 said:

Fyi if anyone is in a conundrum about buying one with missing axle boxes, I thought i’d share this as an idea..
 

I was sizing up using a Hornby 66 bogie, to cut out the axle box file it and make into a Hattons axle box spare..

 

3BA5C3CF-BDA5-41E8-96FE-273F5FFB8978.jpeg.f64935267a76fe32ad2c829c81914142.jpeg

 

these bogies are cheap enough, circa £2.50 each, and you get 6 attempts at making axle boxes, though right now I don't need to, my GBRF one was supposed to have it and Hattons has offered to send a spare, but thought i’d share the idea for those thinking about others sold with missing axle boxes.
 

 

 

Hornby's axle boxes are a different design. I would not have noticed but...

 

I wondered if resin 3d printing could provide a solution to this, so I tried. I used a photo rather than copy Hattons design  I think it works quite well, although I may make it 0.5mm shorter but it is only noticeable from a close-up photo. After I update the artwork, I should have an almost unlimited supply of spares.

I attached it with impact adhesive last night & gave it a few minutes around the layout at speed just before I took the photo.

You can see the grey printed one spinning much more noticeably than the black Hattons one, so I may paint it dark grey.

3d printed axle box covers.jpg

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4 hours ago, Mooresby said:

Apologies in advance if i'm asking a question that has previously been covered but hopefully someone can help me out. 

I've just taken delivery of 66587 from the used selection available. All seems ok with it apart from there being a red glow that emits from the centre of the face. I'm presuming that the light can be switched off somehow but has anyone else encountered this issue?

Hi there I had the issue with my 66. What i did Is take the body and the cab interior on both ends and put some black paint around the area were the red light is glowing and stops the red light bleeding through . The body is pink plastic on the inside not painted. Hope that helps 

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8 hours ago, adb968008 said:

Fyi if anyone is in a conundrum about buying one with missing axle boxes, I thought i’d share this as an idea..
 

I was sizing up using a Hornby 66 bogie, to cut out the axle box file it and make into a Hattons axle box spare..

 

3BA5C3CF-BDA5-41E8-96FE-273F5FFB8978.jpeg.f64935267a76fe32ad2c829c81914142.jpeg

 

these bogies are cheap enough, circa £2.50 each, and you get 6 attempts at making axle boxes, though right now I don't need to, my GBRF one was supposed to have it and Hattons has offered to send a spare, but thought i’d share the idea for those thinking about others sold with missing axle

Hi

 

Hattons usually send out packs of six spare axle box covers on receipt of an email quoting your invoice number. There is also a useful 'how to' video for fixing the loose axle boxes on their website. I found it to be very useful.

 

The chat feature is also an excellent, fast option.

 

Stephen

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Just after a bit of advice if I may.

Got my 66789 with sound today and only just started running it on my rolling road and yes another superb model along with my previous Cemex one, it runs like a beast with zero wobble from low speed up to full speed including AB's rotating & staying put and fit & finish is spot on thus basically to me on par with a brand new model even though I only paid £245 since it was sold as pre-owned but like new.

Anyway, just have one issue and that's with the speaker and yes it is very loud straight out of the box with lots of bass but there is a fair bit of scratchy distortion straight after the engine priming and when it fully kicks in so to speak and where there is low-end bass throughout it's sound range and just trying to work out if the speaker is sort of knackered or its causing distortion thru the body and just wanted to know if anyone else has experienced this with your sound 66's.

I've checked a couple of YT videos of people running their sound 66's but they seem to be quite clear & crisp even with the deep bass sounds thus any advice or pointers would be most welcome, I want to avoid sending it back because it actually runs beautifully and everything about it is spot on but that sound distortion is a bit off-putting but it isn't always present as all other aspects of the sound seem to be ok, its just the low/deep tones.

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