Class 66 in OO Gauge - New Announcement

[Colin_McLeod]

 

1 hour ago, rob D2 said:

It’s slightly odd the way it was frowned on in BR days so I’ve heard.....if you haven’t got an interest in what you work with everyday it’s not very motivating I’d say 

 

Major Kit Holden of HM Railway Inspectorate said to me that he does not like the term "railway enthusiast" as it conjures up the wrong image. He preferred to refer to himself as an "enthusiastic. railwayman"

 

[truffy]

1 hour ago, Colin_McLeod said:

 

 

Major Kit Holden of HM Railway Inspectorate said to me that he does not like the term "railway enthusiast" as it conjures up the wrong image. He preferred to refer to himself as an "enthusiastic. railwayman"

 

That's fine enough...as long as you work in the railway sector.

 

For those of us that don't...?

 

(although I don't consider myself a 'railway enthusiast' to the extent of complete operational fidelity)

[Dicky L]

On 31/05/2020 at 23:27, TomScrut said:

For those who are interested, it looks as though 66097 as offered by Hattons is no longer current, as it now has a Highland stag logo on it, this has appeared in the last couple of weeks it would seem:

 

 

I am pondering a DB loco, thinking of either a Hattons 66 or one of the upcoming Hornby 60s.

 

This hasn't put me off as it would be quite cool to get a transfer and put it on, just making people aware.

 

Does anyone know if the Stag decal is present on both sides of the loco?  I have only seen photos of the side shown above so far. 

 

Edited June 6, 2020 by Dicky L

[TomScrut]

21 minutes ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

If you click on the picture and go to the Ficker site theres two more of it ,looks to be only one side by the pictures

 

 

 

Looks like these two pics were taken the same day by the same person whilst it was working the same diagram.

 

So yes it looks like the one side only.

 

DB stickers on the ends look like they need replacing!

 

Edited June 6, 2020 by TomScrut

[Dicky L]

43 minutes ago, TomScrut said:

 

 

 

Looks like these two pics were taken the same day by the same person whilst it was working the same diagram.

 

So yes it looks like the one side only.

 

DB stickers on the ends look like they need replacing!

 

 

 

very helpful. i am toying with the idea of adding the decal. 

[newbryford]

13 minutes ago, Dicky L said:

 

 

very helpful. i am toying with the idea of adding the decal. 

 

 

Careful - that would mean doing some modelling.....

[Dicky L]

Told you I was toying with the idea 

 

 

[Dicky L]

10 minutes ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

Faster than a speeding bullet,i take it you have a printer ,or if you can freehand like this your wasted on model trains,nice job young fella.

 

 

no I extracted the decal from a Class 37 set of decals. no talent whatsoever on my part. 

[Daddyman]

I took delivery of one of these yesterday; I've had some "issues": 

 

1. Both front-end handrails were broken at the same point straight from the box. 

2. Before I ran the loco I tested the swing of the bogies; one wouldn't turn. On examination I found two hard pieces of flash on the top of one bogie sideframe, which was interfering with the turn (and had scrubbed paint off a visible part of the underframe). 

3. One of the axlebox covers fell out before the loco had travelled a metre. These covers are very poor anyway, as when play is taken up in the axles, the covers (even when they don't detach themselves) are pushed out well proud of the bogie sides, which looks daft, and defeats the object (the object presumably being that they look realistic) . 

5. Another pipe from I know not where dropped out in the first couple of metres. 

6. Buffer fell out just as the loco made it to 2 metres. 

7. I took the body off to replace the air dam at one end with the hole-less version. The cab steps seemed to be glued to both the chassis and the body, and as well as preventing the body coming off, it meant that on separation some were attached to the body and some to the chassis. Either way, the flexing of the rubbery handrails that is necessary to get the underframe past them removes most of the white paint from them. 

8. Several of the grilles hadn't been stuck down properly at all corners, and have a tendency to catch in one's fingerprints during handling. 

9. One bogie dropped to bits while I was changing the air dam - the gear-tower securing piece came unclipped. This is presumably a result of having to pull too hard to separate the body and underframe, which were effectively glued together (see 5 above). 

 

In summary: one axlebox cover missing, paint rubbed off the underframe, broken handrails, paint come off rubbery cab-step handrails, grilles lifting, bogie disintegrated - this after about 30 minutes. To quote A Million Ways to Die in the West, "Wow! That went south sooo fast!" 

All of this is easy to fix for a modeller (though I'd rather not have to be trying to slither superglue underneath the grilles), but I pity the poor box-opener who would be forced to send the loco back.  With all this, I haven't even had chance to think about whether it looks like a 66 or not! 

 

Edited June 10, 2020 by Daddyman

[Class 158 productions]

2 hours ago, Daddyman said:

3. One of the axlebox covers fell out before the loco had travelled a metre. These covers are very poor anyway, as when play is taken up in the axles, the covers (even when they don't detach themselves) are pushed out well proud of the bogie sides, which looks daft, and defeats the object (the object presumably being that they look realistic) . 

 

 

 

 

Was waiting for this comment, had noticed this on mine. Does ask the question whether this model was properly tested. So many flaws, aside the terrible QC 

[NIRCLASS80]

Received one 66789 last Friday. 
 

Absolutely fantastic looking locomotive. 
 

Ran for an hour in each direction. Silent motor and drive but sadly It ran with an horrendous wobble that didn’t improve. I would have happily cut the axles short and just glued the axle box ends into the bogies but they had been well and truly stuck on the axles and wouldn’t come off!

 

Returned to Hattons and full refund, excellent customer service as usual. Just so disappointing. 

[Shoey]

8 hours ago, Daddyman said:

Grilles lifting - (though I'd rather not have to be trying to slither superglue underneath the grilles)

With the grilles lifting, I've had this issue with a couple of mine and rather than try and use superglue, I used a very fine paintbrush with some matt varnish and brushed the underside of the grille whilst using some Humbrol masking tape to stick down the grille, left it for 24 hours and hey presto! Grilles fixed solid and flush in place with no residue whatsoever.

Edited June 10, 2020 by Shoey

[Shoey]

On 07/06/2020 at 10:48, Dicky L said:

Told you I was toying with the idea 

 

 

It’s amazed me how quickly you have added this  The weathering looks superb too! I’ve seen on YouTube one of your videos (can’t remember which one) but you have a rake of Revolution’s blue VTG box wagons which you have weathered, I’m just wondering if you have and pictures anywhere of them on here as I’d love to see them in more detail.

[Dicky L]

8 hours ago, Shoey said:

It’s amazed me how quickly you have added this  The weathering looks superb too! I’ve seen on YouTube one of your videos (can’t remember which one) but you have a rake of Revolution’s blue VTG box wagons which you have weathered, I’m just wondering if you have and pictures anywhere of them on here as I’d love to see them in more detail.

 

 

I will post some photos of the wagons on the Chesborough North thread later on. It wouldn’t be appropriate to hijack the Hattons 66 thread for this purpose. They are weathered for me by a friend to an outstanding standard so I can take no credit for that personally. With regards to the weathering on 66097 it’s very kind of you to compliment it, that’s a very amateurish job on my part on a temporary basis, It  will be soon be removed when my friend takes it away to be done to similar standards as the Revolution JNA-Ts and MMAs

 

 

[ruggedpeak]

On 07/06/2020 at 10:48, Dicky L said:

Told you I was toying with the idea 

 

 

Looks like that 2nd axle box is about to drop off!

 

Otherwise stunning.
 

Edited June 11, 2020 by ruggedpeak

[Daddyman]

15 hours ago, Shoey said:

With the grilles lifting, I've had this issue with a couple of mine and rather than try and use superglue, I used a very fine paintbrush with some matt varnish and brushed the underside of the grille whilst using some Humbrol masking tape to stick down the grille, left it for 24 hours and hey presto! Grilles fixed solid and flush in place with no residue whatsoever.

Good idea. I did consider this, but was worried about doing this with an (to me) untested manufacturer's paint finish: masking tape anywhere near a Bachmann product, for example, would remove lining, and I was loath to repaint the orange stripe. 

[Dicky L]

Here’s DB 66097 with a loaded scrap working. 

[dogbox321]

On 10/06/2020 at 15:31, Daddyman said:

In summary: one axlebox cover missing, paint rubbed off the underframe, broken handrails, paint come off rubbery cab-step handrails, grilles lifting, bogie disintegrated - this after about 30 minutes. To quote A Million Ways to Die in the West, "Wow! That went south sooo fast!" 

All of this is easy to fix for a modeller (though I'd rather not have to be trying to slither superglue underneath the grilles), but I pity the poor box-opener who would be forced to send the loco back.  With all this, I haven't even had chance to think about whether it looks like a 66 or not! 

 

 

In my experience the steps on the air dam are prone to falling out.  

 

I don't think its the case of pittying the box opener.  Whilst it is an inconvenience, if the model isn't right and cannot be rectified with ease then best call is to send it back and get a replacement.  I've sent one back due to missing etched side grille, and because one of the bogies would not even sit on the track with 3 wheels touching the rail.  At least in my experience Hattons were understanding and happy to have the defective model sent back for replacement.  Just hoping the replacement when it arrives is better.

 

Best Regards,

 

C.

 

 

[Pete the Elaner]

49 minutes ago, dogbox321 said:

 

I don't think its the case of pittying the box opener.  Whilst it is an inconvenience, if the model isn't right and cannot be rectified with ease then best call is to send it back and get a replacement.  I've sent one back due to missing etched side grille, and because one of the bogies would not even sit on the track with 3 wheels touching the rail.  At least in my experience Hattons were understanding and happy to have the defective model sent back for replacement.  Just hoping the replacement when it arrives is better.

 

 

I agree. A Ready to Run model should be just that. It should not need repair work before it can be used.

Mine had a fault & I called Hattons straight away. Their customer service was excellent & they dealt with it.

 

Any manufactured item has a rate of failure. The chances of buying a faulty kettle or iron is very low because they have been manufactured for years with the process & components improved over time.

Hattons 66 was an ambitious product, so failure rates would have been greater than for a more basic item like a Hornby Railroad 31. I am sure Hattons accepted that there would be a few issues. Whether they have had more than anticipated is for them to know & the rest of us to speculate.

 

Hopefully this has not put too many people off because once faults have been ironed out, it really is a great model.

Assuming the first batch has now been completed, they have an opportunity to refine the production process & reduce the failure rate.

[TomScrut]

3 hours ago, dogbox321 said:

In my experience the steps on the air dam are prone to falling out.  

 

They are. I have one to to put back in I think, although where it is I am unsure. But it's not Hattons fault that the signal man didn't change some points in my case 

[dogbox321]

8 hours ago, Pete the Elaner said:

 

I agree. A Ready to Run model should be just that. It should not need repair work before it can be used.

Mine had a fault & I called Hattons straight away. Their customer service was excellent & they dealt with it.

 

Any manufactured item has a rate of failure. The chances of buying a faulty kettle or iron is very low because they have been manufactured for years with the process & components improved over time.

Hattons 66 was an ambitious product, so failure rates would have been greater than for a more basic item like a Hornby Railroad 31. I am sure Hattons accepted that there would be a few issues. Whether they have had more than anticipated is for them to know & the rest of us to speculate.

 

Hopefully this has not put too many people off because once faults have been ironed out, it really is a great model.

Assuming the first batch has now been completed, they have an opportunity to refine the production process & reduce the failure rate.

 

I think the main problem in all fairness, is the model was marketed as the ultimate Class 66 so its expected not to fall apart and wobble as if its fuel tanks were filled with Stella instead of diesel!  Lots of companies have had teething troubles with new models, but I think this surpasses most previous models problems.  I think the number of liveries etc., has not helped.  It would have been better if a couple of versions had been released first, nail the teething troubles and then produce the main fleet, but that is not sympathetic to modern manufacturing processes.  What I'm saying is, to my mind, unfortunately towards the end it would appear that there was a little rushing, so effectively each one is a prototype, which is why there are so many faults, and ultimately the models "Achillies" (50045 to anyone who remembers proper trains!) heel.  Add to that the promises that it will be the best etc., and I think people are disappointed, and possibly frustrated that they are having to rebuild them.  To complain is so easy nowadays, and with most modern modellers wanting/having at least one, then its not surprising that we hear all the grumblings.  Modellers were promised a Rolls Royce (and in all fairness it does have some very nice tooling and features), but got what seems like a car built on a Friday afternoon!  

 

In all fairness, lots of models in recent times seem to have more pieces falling off them.  Not too sure if the Chinese bother to use glue now half the time.  I would have suggested spit, but in the Covid era, maybe water with a sugar cube mixed in?

 

I do think the Class 66 is a very nice model, and I put a Bachmann and Hattons Class 66 in GBRf next to each other.  Hattons is a MM or so taller than Bachmann, so whose is right?   The colours are pretty compatible, and I'd certainly be happy to have them both work on the 'eventual' layout together.  Hattons has more finesse, but next to each other, I don't think either looks out of place.  I certainly intend to retain my Bachmann Models, even though I don't think I'd buy anymore.  Not long to go now to find out what progress has been made on the second batch.

 

Best Regards,

 

C.

 

[Dicky L]

Video uploaded to youtube again, this time with the sound working.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 13, 2020 by Dicky L

[Triumph1050]

On 10/06/2020 at 23:31, Shoey said:

With the grilles lifting, I've had this issue with a couple of mine and rather than try and use superglue, I used a very fine paintbrush with some matt varnish and brushed the underside of the grille whilst using some Humbrol masking tape to stick down the grille, left it for 24 hours and hey presto! Grilles fixed solid and flush in place with no residue whatsoever.

Better still card glue (not rocket glue) or PVA under the grill and wipe excess of with a damp cotton bud leaving no trace on the paintwork and dries clear

[NewSiding]

hello. I am new here and a novice when it comes to model railways and the real thing.
I have had problems with 2 axle boxes on my 66756 (DC only).
Hattons are sending me replacements.
I wondered if anyone has any tips about what glue to use to fix them on with.
I see Hattons recommend superglue.  I have been using superglue (gorilla gel) but I don't think that's a very good idea.  The first time I glued one back it created a wobble, so I removed it and glued it on straighter.  But it keeps coming off.  The superglue leaves a hard residue behind and it is very time consuming or impossible to get the glue off the axle and the axle cover.
Is there a better glue I can use?

Overall I'm quite pleased with my 66.
I think the paint finish is a very high quality.
I like the front ends and the air dam.  It looks much better than the Bachmann which has the seam/gap where the body comes off.
The Hatton's 66 is slighter higher than the Bachmann and sits proudly on the track.
The nameplates are on very straight.
The lighting is good with all 3 marker lights working (but not on some others I see after reading this forum).  The light surrounds appear to be the correct size on the model I have (but perhaps not on others).
I think it's good value for £150 with all the detail.
Despite the problems with the axle boxes, I think they are a great feature.

There are some things I'm not too keen on though.
- I think the door hand rails stick out too far (but on the Bachmann I think they don't stick out far enough).
- This may surprise some people, I don't really like the side grills. They are a fine piece of skilled craftsmanship, but to me they look like a mesh and don't look much like the concertina effect of the prototype.
- It doesn't like slightly uneven track and stops if running at crawl speed.  I don't know why, perhaps the axle boxes are rubbing or it's my poor track laying.
- Sometimes the coupling would derail a wagon on my r2 curves.  I removed the hook from the coupling on the 66, which has improved this.

Steve

[truffy]

24 minutes ago, NewSiding said:

Is there a better glue I can use?

Somewhere in this thread, I believe @newbryford said he was using a variant of UHU, and others have suggested PVA glue. Search this thread for 'glue', that might help.