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Class 66 in OO Gauge - New Announcement


Hattons Dave
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3 hours ago, dogbox321 said:

 

Hi - Thanks.  Looks good.  F/L seems to be a good one to spersonalise.  Hows the hunt for greener numbers going?  Hopefully a Colas would go pretty well too.

 

Out of interest - Has anyone been really brave and tried on either GBRF or Barbie Livery?  

 

Best Wishes,

 

Chris

 

 

 

Not yet, Steve at Railtec is a busy man but assures me he'll get to them. I may look at the Replica transfers too that have been mentioned.

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2 minutes ago, SouthernMafia said:

 

Not yet, Steve at Railtec is a busy man but assures me he'll get to them. I may look at the Replica transfers too that have been mentioned.

 

Yes, Steve is a good bloke.  Did me some silver numbers for a Mainline Class 58.  Waiting patiently for another run of decals for 43186 in FGW!  

 

Best Wishes,

 

Chris.

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57 minutes ago, big jim said:

Gave my ‘seconds’ biffa a run earlier on dc, a slight wobble but not horrendous, as for the ‘scratch on the handrail’ this is it.....

 

427DC2BA-D791-4C3C-AA94-C3BB2CAF8B23.jpeg.f489ae16ed2f37827c4c15dbcf31d40a.jpeg

 

well pleased with it, just needs toning down a bit with a bit of weathering 

Think my Prestine £150 version is worse than that!

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Purchased two Hattons Class 66’s after a lot of deliberation. I held off buying one as tbh I got spooked with a lot of the issues. However I took the decision to purchase a couple of pre-owned for a bargain price and wow, what a model. They do have a few marks etc but I knew this in advance.

189BBC14-FE41-4095-83D4-120005375126.jpeg

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3 hours ago, dogbox321 said:

 

Hi - Thanks.  Looks good.  F/L seems to be a good one to spersonalise.  Hows the hunt for greener numbers going?  Hopefully a Colas would go pretty well too.

 

Out of interest - Has anyone been really brave and tried on either GBRF or Barbie Livery?  

 

Best Wishes,

 

Chris 

 

That's my deliberation too Chris.  The GBRf orange numbers need to be a good match, so I'm not sure who's will be the better option... 

 

Al

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2 hours ago, Eden Road TMD said:

Purchased two Hattons Class 66’s after a lot of deliberation. I held off buying one as tbh I got spooked with a lot of the issues. However I took the decision to purchase a couple of pre-owned for a bargain price and wow, what a model. They do have a few marks etc but I knew this in advance.

189BBC14-FE41-4095-83D4-120005375126.jpeg

HI

I'm glad you are seeing what a few of us have been saying for a wee while now. They are cracking models, far superior to anything else out there. I was swithering about those two versions. But didn't bother. Now that I see them in your picture I think I'll maybe have another look. 

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2 hours ago, YesTor said:

 

That's my deliberation too Chris.  The GBRf orange numbers need to be a good match, so I'm not sure who's will be the better option... 

 

Al

 

Hi Al - personally I'd be more worried about removing the numbers first without messing up the bodysides. I can understand the issue on the Orange numbers - and I would certainly take a chance on Railtec - as Steve will work with you to get them to look as good as possible.  I know when I had some Mainline Numbers done he had to print it on a white background.

 

The next issue of course then with GBRF is which "Orange" - much earlier in the project I believe Hattons Dave illustrated the variations on different class members!  Could certainly be a minefield!  Although some the numbers are different to the Logo - 66737 is a good example.

 

Best Wishes,

 

Christopher.

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A hopefully helpful hint to those removing/replacing the body on these. As most know, getting the body back on without fouling these pesky plastic cab step handrails is a nightmare task if you want to get them vertical, as they have a tendency to splay out or inwards.

 

Using sharp snips, remove about 1.2 mm of the bottom inward part of the handrails, leaving just the suggestion of the turn in at the bottom. Be careful not to remove too much. Less is more.  This makes replacing the body MUCH easier while retaining the look of the step handrails.

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7 hours ago, Johnfromoz said:

A hopefully helpful hint to those removing/replacing the body on these. As most know, getting the body back on without fouling these pesky plastic cab step handrails is a nightmare task if you want to get them vertical, as they have a tendency to splay out or inwards.

 

Using sharp snips, remove about 1.2 mm of the bottom inward part of the handrails, leaving just the suggestion of the turn in at the bottom. Be careful not to remove too much. Less is more.  This makes replacing the body MUCH easier while retaining the look of the step handrails.


I had a different approach. I slid the body back on until the steps just reached the point where they snagged and then used tweezers to gently lift one side at a time over the snag. Worked perfectly, none damaged. 
 

Key to remember is to pull them out of their holes before removing the body. 
 

Roy

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Seriously thinking of getting one, possibly two EWS/DBC Class 66's but I'm just holding back at the moment as I'm still concerned about the "issues", but at £119, there too good to let go.  Can I ask, has anyone fitted sound to these and apart from the handrail issue, a easy fit?

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13 minutes ago, jools1959 said:

Seriously thinking of getting one, possibly two EWS/DBC Class 66's but I'm just holding back at the moment as I'm still concerned about the "issues", but at £119, there too good to let go.  Can I ask, has anyone fitted sound to these and apart from the handrail issue, a easy fit?

It depends on what size of speaker you want to install, how hard it'll be. Otherwise it's just a case of fitting the chip and soldering two wires from the speakers to the solder pads on the circuit board. If you choose an Em2 speaker there is a bit more involved. Nothing too hard though.

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3 hours ago, ayrmrg said:

It depends on what size of speaker you want to install, how hard it'll be. Otherwise it's just a case of fitting the chip and soldering two wires from the speakers to the solder pads on the circuit board. If you choose an Em2 speaker there is a bit more involved. Nothing too hard though.

Even an EM2 was fairly straightforward. I just had to undo one if the small PCBs to untangle the wires to give room to get it in. 
 

Roy

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On 20/11/2020 at 19:30, bartram108 said:

Thanks for the advice - I don't have an R/R but I can try the wheels with the loco upside down in the box fairly easily

So I did everything I set out to do and added in the advice about testing movement of the wheels. At first I didn't think anything was happening with power applied direct but then I realised the wheels were going round but the motor was SO quiet.

 

On the track all was also OK with all axle boxes still on about several circuits. There are so many small bits I'm almost afraid to pick it up.

 

Only other comment I have is the reference in the instructions to 3 switches under the body to regulate the lights - mine only has  2! 

 

Well worth the cost and I'm certainly glad I didn't pay the original £150.

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20 minutes ago, bartram108 said:

So I did everything I set out to do and added in the advice about testing movement of the wheels. At first I didn't think anything was happening with power applied direct but then I realised the wheels were going round but the motor was SO quiet.

 

On the track all was also OK with all axle boxes still on about several circuits. There are so many small bits I'm almost afraid to pick it up.

 

Only other comment I have is the reference in the instructions to 3 switches under the body to regulate the lights - mine only has  2! 

 

Well worth the cost and I'm certainly glad I didn't pay the original £150.

It does have 3 under the body and 2 under the chassis. I think you are looking at the chassis ones.

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19 hours ago, jools1959 said:

Seriously thinking of getting one, possibly two EWS/DBC Class 66's but I'm just holding back at the moment as I'm still concerned about the "issues", but at £119, there too good to let go.  Can I ask, has anyone fitted sound to these and apart from the handrail issue, a easy fit?

 

Very easy to do, but you may need to unsolder a couple of wires that need to run over the speaker, when using the EM2 speaker. I was fortunate in that I didn't need to unsolder any wired, there was enough slack to allow me to slide the speaker underneath.

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20 hours ago, jools1959 said:

Seriously thinking of getting one, possibly two EWS/DBC Class 66's but I'm just holding back at the moment as I'm still concerned about the "issues", but at £119, there too good to let go.  Can I ask, has anyone fitted sound to these and apart from the handrail issue, a easy fit?

 

The wires on mine were a bit tight and I think I had to release the wires heading to the lighting circuit board to give enough slack. But it's designed with the EM2 to drop in.

 

If your worried about the issue, the preowned models list the issues hattons pick up on and there slightly cheaper than the sale price on the new ones. 

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I have in the last couple of weeks bought 5 Class 66’s in the £95 to £119 price range.  I check them by setting them on a piece of glass and everyone of them sat very unstable and also ran with a wobble. 
 

So I removed all axle boxes and they would then sit perfectly and run excellently. 
 

I then glued the axle boxes into the side frame and cut the excess off at the back. 
 

I now have the 5 best running locomotives that look fantastic compared to the other versions available 

at bargain prices granted without rotating axle boxes and 20 minutes work each. 
 

 

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2 hours ago, NIRCLASS80 said:

I have in the last couple of weeks bought 5 Class 66’s in the £95 to £119 price range.  I check them by setting them on a piece of glass and everyone of them sat very unstable and also ran with a wobble. 
 

So I removed all axle boxes and they would then sit perfectly and run excellently. 
 

I then glued the axle boxes into the side frame and cut the excess off at the back. 
 

I now have the 5 best running locomotives that look fantastic compared to the other versions available 

at bargain prices granted without rotating axle boxes and 20 minutes work each. 
 

 

It’s one thing I’ve noticed people forget when comparing the Bachmann one, or slagging off the hattons one. The power of them, is absolutely brilliant. 

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8 hours ago, Andy7 said:

It does have 3 under the body and 2 under the chassis. I think you are looking at the chassis ones.

There's actually 6 INSIDE & 3 UNDER as per the instructions - I've still only got 2 under - not taken the body off yet to count the others.

 

Still I'm guessing I only need 2 as they switch off the tail lights at either end.

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