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Class 66 in OO Gauge - New Announcement

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14 hours ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

The ends of the axles a little longer and knurled finnish so they have something to grip would sort it if theres more to manufacture in future

A thought I had would be to to have the ends threaded.

Anyway, with a little work, this 'minor' can be easily resolved ...

 

Al.

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the wobble would be due to not quite fitting the axlebox correctly I refitted one of mine and the loco wobbled to the first curve then fell off the track I refitted and all was well. I hope spare parts will be available as I also lost another one and a set of lower hand rails when I removed the body to insert a driver

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I've had to finally send mine back. I packed up the bogies with shim but it made no difference with the number one end but it does now run number 2 end forward without de-railing. Hummed and arghed about swooping the coupling but I know I wouldn't have been happy with it. And as there is a lot of detail attatched to the lower body sides I thought better of it. Hopefully there will be a replacement available. Listening to all the issues with the axle boxes I'm wondering whether they may have pushed this a little too far. 

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Happy to be corrected, but isn't there an H0 66 with rotating axleboxes - I don't recall any huge issues with that? 

 

From what I can gather looking at what has been said here, the running issues and axleboxes falling off seems more about design and/or assembly than there being anything fundamentally wrong with the idea. 

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IN case it is useful - TTS 66 decoders for £29.99

 

https://www.modelrailwaysdirect.co.uk/digital-and-analogue-control/Hornby-r8121-tts-sound-decoder-class-66/

 

 

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On 31/12/2019 at 13:31, Vecchio said:

 

Hi Dave, we could make a start with my one. It is probably better if your guys have a look than me removing or re-gluing the axleboxes.

49252944712_3d184505d2.jpg20191221_115525 

It is one of your DC models, I have chipped it myself - shall I remove the DCC chip and speaker or is it ok leaving it as it is? 

Is there any particular data you need from me?  

If yes send me a PM. 

 

Many thanks

 

Vecchio aka Gerhard

 

Hello Gerhard,

 

The best way to get this back to us will be to contact our Helpdesk team (0151 733 3655 or [email protected]) who will talk you through the process and make sure everything is noted up appropriately.

If you could remove your decoder and reinstall the blanking plate before returning it, that will be best.

I hope this helps.

 

Cheers,

 

Dave

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I suppose it had to be only a matter of time before one of those axleboxes fell off.    Second time out of the box, and "Madge Elliot" returned to the fiddle yard minus an axlebox from the centre axle of the trailing bogie.   After some considerable searching, I found it lying by the edge of the track at a tunnel mouth.  Would I ever have found it again if it had dropped off inside the tunnel?    How it ever managed to come off is a mystery as trying to re-attach it proved extremely fiddly as it was a very tight fight over the axle stub.  Indeed it took several attempts, and several shots of super glue had gone dry before the item was eventually successfully re-attached.  Here's hoping for no more problems!

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Is anybody thinking of renumbering an EWS one? I'd like to do one from the early 2000s WBBM pool (the RHTB-fitted locos) which will mean renumbering from (probably) Hatton's 66125. But I wonder how the Hatton's colour compares to EWS and whether my stock of Modelmaster decals will work - they were a good match for the Bachmann body colour. 

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42 minutes ago, Daddyman said:

Is anybody thinking of renumbering an EWS one? I'd like to do one from the early 2000s WBBM pool (the RHTB-fitted locos) which will mean renumbering from (probably) Hatton's 66125. But I wonder how the Hatton's colour compares to EWS and whether my stock of Modelmaster decals will work - they were a good match for the Bachmann body colour. 

 

I would think your biggest problem is the bodyside ribbing!

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1 hour ago, letterspider said:

 

I would think your biggest problem is the bodyside ribbing!

No, biggest problem is colour match. 

 

Ribbing soon lies down and plays dead as long as it is glossed first, and Microsol products are used with the transfer. 

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Daddyman said:

 

No, biggest problem is colour match. 

 

Ribbing soon lies down and plays dead as long as it is glossed first, and Microsol products are used with the transfer. 

No guarantee you don’t rub the gold off though 

Edited by rob D2

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Is there any new on the sounds model I placed my order before the 15 November.

 

 

Cieran 

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Guest MM1991
1 minute ago, 92009DBS said:

Is there any new on the sounds model I placed my order before the 15 November.

 

 

Cieran 

Read through the last few pages, where it has been discussed

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22 minutes ago, 92009DBS said:

Is there any new on the sounds model I placed my order before the 15 November.

 

 

Cieran 

 

Hattons also have it on their 66 project page with all the delivery dates relating to product codes/order dates. 

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On 02/01/2020 at 18:11, Daddyman said:

 

No, biggest problem is colour match. 

 

Ribbing soon lies down and plays dead as long as it is glossed first, and Microsol products are used with the transfer. 

 

I’m waiting on the EWS 66005 (sound one) when they come out and going to renumber, I’d bargained on stripping off both the lettering and numbers for consistency and replacing the lot with some Modelmaster versions - it’ll be very interesting to see if my usual Humbrol enamel thinners will strip the branding without going through the paint.

 

The Bachmann EWS ones were hit and miss (later ones are easy!) so if Hattons can deliver on a clean renumbering process as well as the detail improvements, then that’ll be the final icing on the cake! :good_mini:

 

Cheers,

James

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3 hours ago, James Makin said:

 

I’m waiting on the EWS 66005 (sound one) when they come out and going to renumber, I’d bargained on stripping off both the lettering and numbers for consistency and replacing the lot with some Modelmaster versions - it’ll be very interesting to see if my usual Humbrol enamel thinners will strip the branding without going through the paint.

 

The Bachmann EWS ones were hit and miss (later ones are easy!) so if Hattons can deliver on a clean renumbering process as well as the detail improvements, then that’ll be the final icing on the cake! :good_mini:

 

Cheers,

James

Thanks. I've always used Modelstrip for RTR print myself - it's very gentle and only takes the print off. 

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On 04/01/2020 at 13:01, James Makin said:

 

I’m waiting on the EWS 66005 (sound one) when they come out and going to renumber, I’d bargained on stripping off both the lettering and numbers for consistency and replacing the lot with some Modelmaster versions - it’ll be very interesting to see if my usual Humbrol enamel thinners will strip the branding without going through the paint.

 

The Bachmann EWS ones were hit and miss (later ones are easy!) so if Hattons can deliver on a clean renumbering process as well as the detail improvements, then that’ll be the final icing on the cake! :good_mini:

 

Cheers,

James

Renumbering EWS GM stuff is tricky, even back in Lima days. I always repaint the gold band entirely after sanding down the existing printing as it's the only way to get a colour match. The top of the gold band should be exactly one 'rib' below the first angle of the roofline, level with the cab windows. 

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On ‎25‎/‎12‎/‎2019 at 20:15, Pegleg90 said:

had to read the manual a couple of times re function control and yes will need to re-program F2 as I use a gauge master prodigy advance 2.

 

I wish Gaugemaster would allow some sort of update to make this latching!
The biggest drawback of the PA2 IMO.  Maybe it's time to re-look at another controller.  Will have to see what the bank says first!

 

What function is on F2?
What did you move it to?

Is there a step by step guide?

 

Cheers!

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Firstly really pleased to say had a replacement 66789 today and it runs perfectly. Thank you Hattons for a quick turnaround.

 

The decoder functions are the same as the decoder in the Class 68 so this is what I did.

 

I set mine to F8, Button 8 is part of the higher functions, which would make use of CV38. Therefore, by selecting the value that corresponds to Button 8 (a value of 8), and programming that value into CV 38, Function 2 will now respond to Button 8. To finish the transfer, you need to clear the button from responding to Button 2. To do this, program CV 36 with 0.

 

Now you are finished!

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On 06/01/2020 at 09:52, Sir TophamHatt said:

 

I wish Gaugemaster would allow some sort of update to make this latching!
The biggest drawback of the PA2 IMO.  Maybe it's time to re-look at another controller.  Will have to see what the bank says first!

 

What function is on F2?
What did you move it to?

Is there a step by step guide?

 

Cheers!

 

See my post above, I use the same controller. It's reasonably straight forward.

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Hiya @Hattons Dave, I have 66743 on order (pre-ordered before the Nov 15 cut-off). Any idea when it is likely to arrive, please? The website just says 'Jan'.

 

Cheers!

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1 hour ago, IamDaniel said:

Hiya @Hattons Dave, I have 66743 on order (pre-ordered before the Nov 15 cut-off). Any idea when it is likely to arrive, please? The website just says 'Jan'.

 

Cheers!

 

Why not simply go to Hattons website where you will find a handy 'chat' button located in the bottom right-hand side of your screen.  Quote your Order No. requesting a delivery update.  Simple, no?  :rolleyes:

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I did ask Hattons about it a week or so ago and they didn't had a specific date yet. Just some point in January. But 'early January' is ending soon. ^_^ Somehow I'm glad though that it hasn't arrived yet, a new month on my card starts today. December was expensive enough for me :lol:

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I was wondering if the next release will be coming by ship  (my pink 'One') as any delay will have the Chinese New Year on top of us:crazy_mini:

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