Jump to content
We will be upgrading the forum software Wednesday morning - the site may be down for a while during backup/install.

Recommended Posts

Does it matter?  Are you going to operate the loco with a mirror behind it so that folk can see both sides at once?   :dontknow:

 

Jim

 

Alas no need for mirrors, Jim.

Looking sideways at the loco in motion, you can see the rods on the other side "bottom" through a convenient space between the front two drivers. Watch the video of it on the Coal Tank thread if you don't believe me.

Also, looking at the loco head on when in motion, it is obvious which side is leading.

It is one of those things that as soon as you know it is wrong, you keep finding new ways of seeing it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

though I'm not sure that anything other than quartering would work well on a 2mm model.

It should be just fine. Guy Williams talks about this in his book on locomotive construction too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Part 16 has arrived, in which there is an inordinate amount of filing, scraping, measuring, rubbing, polishing and drilling just to assemble the gears onto their axles...

 

[media]

[/

When I try and download and save Part 16, I get Part 15. Looking at top line it seems they have the same URL. What am I doing wrong?

Please can someone advise.

Thanks

Oli

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aha! No glueing gears to muffs! And so no stringy threads of Araldite on the teeth and no gnashing of (human) teeth or wielding of scrapers to remove said glue traces! A great light dawns ...

 

Thanks for these videos, they are extremely helpful.

 

Graham

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I try and download and save Part 16, I get Part 15. Looking at top line it seems they have the same URL. What am I doing wrong?

Please can someone advise.

Thanks

Oli

Hi Oli,

Not sure why you're having a problem - as far as I can see the URLs are different.

The URL for part 16 which you could try copy/pasting is:

 https://youtu.be/a0V8bQ33NiA

Nick.

 

P.S. I've also made a playlist for the entire set here:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZZlPcvHpX05JrF3aEBkjJaOQiSBLHS9l

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Nick

Works now, I have no idea why I kept getting repeats of previous video. Not like I've had problems with all the earlier ones.

Anyway thanks for helping.

Oli

Hi Oli,

Not sure why you're having a problem - as far as I can see the URLs are different.

The URL for part 16 which you could try copy/pasting is:

 https://youtu.be/a0V8bQ33NiA

Nick.

 

P.S. I've also made a playlist for the entire set here:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZZlPcvHpX05JrF3aEBkjJaOQiSBLHS9l

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nick, I realise I'm only repeating the words of others, but many thanks for putting the time in to prepare this. I'd long overlooked it on the basis that I'm not building a Jubilee - not sure where the logic is in that, since it's a great guide to chassis construction in 2mm.

 

Hopefully it will inspire me to press on with my modest Pannier replacement chassis build once I've sorted out the current chaos of my workshop. The stills from your camera rig post have given me serious OCD envy. 

 

Regards,

 

Chris 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Two episodes in one day!

Here's Part 18, which carries on the same theme of the previous episode. By the end of this one, all the driving wheels are in place, the coupling rods are temporarily fitted, and some initial testing takes place.

Now that I've got to the stage of being able to push something up and down a length of track, it feels like a major milestone has been reached...

 

https://youtu.be/qPnKdWMe87o

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Part 19 is here where, after fitting the wheels to the bogie, I make the special sprung bogie bearing and test it out.

There's a lot of fiddling about, checking clearances and making adjustments towards the end of the episode - illustrating that making a 2mm chassis is much more than simply assembling the parts...

 

https://youtu.be/hDva7qmoMgc

 

I don't think I'm too far away from having it moving under it's own power now.

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry it has been a bit of a wait for Part 20, but here it is at last.

What I was planning for this episode turned out to be much too long after I'd edited the footage, so I have split it in half.

Part 21 will follow in a day or so, and concludes this topic - which is primarily concerned with the drive-train from tender to loco.

 

Before filming, I spent quite few days agonising over what sort of universal joint to build. My usual arrangement can't be made without a lathe, but I really didn't want to go down that road for this project.

Then I remembered the 2mm Association has recently started selling a 3D printed version, so I ordered one to try out.

I must confess to some initial skepticism, but having now used one I think they are brilliant.

I don't know who designed this for the Association, but they have done a first rate job.

 

So, after a brief survey of universal joint options, I start to get to grips with the printed one. Then I make a shaft for the worm, and fit it to the worm.

Then disaster looms as I discover a major problem with the worm housing I built back in Part 6(!) and have to make some corrections.

There is at least one moment for the blooper reel to look out for...

 

https://youtu.be/CMDkKOhbRo8

Edited by Nick Mitchell
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here, as promised, is Part 20 continued  - a.k.a. part 21, in which I complete the drive train.

There's actually quite a lot in this: Adjusting the mesh of the worm; cutting the motor shafts (without getting grit in the bearings); wiring up the motor; making the drive shaft; testing under power (It lives!)...

 

https://youtu.be/6TU4kB4KfUo

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A brilliant series Nick, many thanks for taking the time to do them.

Are you going to continue on and do the motion?

 

Jerry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for that most informative what gauge wire did you use with the UJ ? ( sorry if you mentioned it but had the sound off )

 

Nick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for that most informative what gauge wire did you use with the UJ ? ( sorry if you mentioned it but had the sound off )

 

Nick

 

 

Nick, I can't believe that you watched with the sound off, if you've done that with the whole set then I'm sure you will have missed some real nuggets of information :-)

 

The answer to what you asked though is 0.010" guitar wire.

 

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I confess to watching while doing other things and 99% of the time my PC's sound is mute however as a reference this series is excellent

 

Nick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A brilliant series Nick, many thanks for taking the time to do them.

Are you going to continue on and do the motion?

 

Jerry

 

Thanks Jerry - and indeed everyone who has commented - for your encouragement.

Yes, I intend to carry filming on until the chassis is complete and the body modified to fit.

I certainly wouldn't feel right missing out what people apparently perceive as the most challenging / off-putting part, which is the valve-gear.

 

I will have the Jubilee at the 2mm AGM in Bournmoor for anyone who wants to see it in the flesh - whatever state it is in by then.

I am hoping to have it mechanically finished at least, but I'm about to start a very busy period at work and won't have much free time over the next few weeks.

I'd really love to be in a position to film it pulling a train on a layout at the AGM for the final scene in the final episode though...

 

Nick.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nick,

I am delighted with your excellent series - great engineering and very good videos. We are all indebted to you for your work. I look forward to the sequel "Son of Jubilee", when you get on to the valve gear and the superstructure.

Thank you again,

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Nick,

 

It is especially helpful you left dealing with worm housing issue in rather than editing out.

 

All to often "perfect" builds are presented so when novices like myself come across issues I tend to think it is something I've done wrong.

Seeing this gives confidence to tackle the issue rather than assume you made a mistake and need to start again.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great stuff Nick. Pleased to see that a garriflex block is also your temporary weight of choice!

 

Those 3D print u/js look interesting. Do you think the clip-in joints mean you have to be more careful to limit the end float?

 

Looking forward to seeing how you apply your careful approach to the motion.

 

Simon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry it has been a bit of a wait for Part 20, but here it is at last.

What I was planning for this episode turned out to be much too long after I'd edited the footage, so I have split it in half.

Part 21 will follow in a day or so, and concludes this topic - which is primarily concerned with the drive-train from tender to loco.

 

Before filming, I spent quite few days agonising over what sort of universal joint to build. My usual arrangement can't be made without a lathe, but I really didn't want to go down that road for this project.

Then I remembered the 2mm Association has recently started selling a 3D printed version, so I ordered one to try out.

I must confess to some initial skepticism, but having now used one I think they are brilliant.

I don't know who designed this for the Association, but they have done a first rate job.

 

So, after a brief survey of universal joint options, I start to get to grips with the printed one. Then I make a shaft for the worm, and fit it to the worm.

Then disaster looms as I discover a major problem with the worm housing I built back in Part 6(!) and have to make some corrections.

There is at least one moment for the blooper reel to look out for...

 

https://youtu.be/CMDkKOhbRo8

 

Julia did those universal joints.

 

Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those 3D print u/js look interesting. Do you think the clip-in joints mean you have to be more careful to limit the end float?

Simon

There's end float in the worm shaft, and end float in the motor shaft.

The u/j shaft couples the two without much end play in the joints themselves, but If you get it the right length, there should be a bit of play over the entire system - which is needed to go round curves.

Getting the shaft the right length (something I've found difficult in the past) is much easier to do with this system.

At only £1.50, it is worth buying a set and having a play with it.

Nick.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nick, just wanted to say thanks again for posting all this, I’m learning so much and being inspired to keep on going when things don’t go right, good to see we all get it wrong occasionally, and perhaps more importantly, how to recover from mistakes.

 

One big thing I have learned is to have the right tools, so many issues I have had in the past have been self inflicted through trying to get around a job without the right tools, so I have been learning from you there too.

 

Thanks again and very much looking forward to the remaining parts in due course.

 

Cheers

 

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.