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GW & GC Joint Line late 1930s - ex-GCR loco kit builds


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Very nice. I built one of these a few years ago, and have a Craftsman one in my roundtuit pile. It will be interesting to see how they compare, both in appearance and performance, once I build it.

 

Nice info regarding the Bachmann bogie too :)

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Looks really good, I'd be tempted to shorten the cable wrapped around the motor though, they can get hot and it could lose it's sheathing giving a short. Either that or wrap it in some tape or heatproof sheath.

 

Good idea Chris I will do that. I also need to put some tape over the top motor contact as its mighty close to the bottom of the cab front when everything is in place. 

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  • 2 months later...

Anybody have any idea what colours the A5 cab interior would have been painted in LNER days?  The three Bachmann ex-GCR locos (J11, O4, D11) that I have are all different. For example, the O4 & D11 have a white/cream cab side & roof whereas the J11 is dark green. And would the interior colour have been applied to the cab rear, or would that have been black ?

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  • 4 months later...

Finally finished off the A5.  Halfords Satin Black used for the top coat. Red lining and bufferbeams by Ian Rathbone. Transfers from Modelmaster, which look good but perhaps the letters / numbers are slightly narrower than prototype?

 

For the brakes I obtained two plastic chassis base plates from the Bachmann D11, cut off the brakes shoes and attached them at the top to 0.7mm wire hangers attached to the chassis, and at the bottom to Mainly Trains brake rodding. There is very little clearance between the wheels, and plastic shoes ensure no shorting.  

 

The camera has made the dome look a bit askew but it looks fine in reality. 

 

 

 

 

 

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Next up is a K's B2. Slow work as the body has taken a lot of fettling to get right. I'll be using the tender off a Bachmann J11, and the trick with the Bachmann front bogie as per the A5.

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  • 2 months later...

The B2 upper works completed and etch primed, except for the roof rainstrips. The back head was kindly donated by the B3 project, the rest of the footplate was built from scratch (needs regulator adding). The main problem with the kit is that the boiler sits about 2mm too low. In retrospect maybe I should have tried to address that but it would have involved filling in a resulting gap between boiler and splasher top. 

 

 

 

 

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On 03/01/2019 at 16:26, scratcher said:

Finally finished off the A5.  Halfords Satin Black used for the top coat. Red lining and bufferbeams by Ian Rathbone. Transfers from Modelmaster, which look good but perhaps the letters / numbers are slightly narrower than prototype?

 

For the brakes I obtained two plastic chassis base plates from the Bachmann D11, cut off the brakes shoes and attached them at the top to 0.7mm wire hangers attached to the chassis, and at the bottom to Mainly Trains brake rodding. There is very little clearance between the wheels, and plastic shoes ensure no shorting.  

 

The camera has made the dome look a bit askew but it looks fine in reality. 

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 Re the decals , one  reason they look incorrect is because they are missing the white lines. Nice A5.

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On ‎21‎/‎05‎/‎2018 at 11:32, MarkC said:

Very nice. I built one of these a few years ago, and have a Craftsman one in my roundtuit pile. It will be interesting to see how they compare, both in appearance and performance, once I build it.

 

Nice info regarding the Bachmann bogie too :)

Watch out for the Craftsman A5 Mark - the bunker is too narrow. When I built my 2nd one I scratched up a new bunker back. Otherwise you don't get that 'big back' appearance. I think the running plate had to be widened too. I suspect the drawings they used to design the kit  were wrong...

 

Regards

Tony

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I use HMRS Pressfix when I can get ones that have been printed correctly. They have been having problems with misalignment for a long time sadly. I have seen the  Fox version which look ok,  but I have never used them (so far !!).

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14 hours ago, dibateg said:

Watch out for the Craftsman A5 Mark - the bunker is too narrow. When I built my 2nd one I scratched up a new bunker back. Otherwise you don't get that 'big back' appearance. I think the running plate had to be widened too. I suspect the drawings they used to design the kit  were wrong...

 

Regards

Tony

Thanks, Tony. Much appreciated.

 

Brgds

Mark

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On 10/03/2019 at 18:43, scratcher said:

The main problem with the kit is that the boiler sits about 2mm too low. In retrospect maybe I should have tried to address that but it would have involved filling in a resulting gap between boiler and splasher top. 

 

 

 

 

 

Sometimes when you notice a problem, you just have to fix it. Some careful cutting down enabled the height of the smokebox saddle to be reduced by just enough to allow a more characteristic bottom to the smokebox to be made from plasticard and filler. It now looks more like a Robinson loco.  

 

 

 

 

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  • 6 months later...
On 11/03/2019 at 20:52, micklner said:

I use HMRS Pressfix when I can get ones that have been printed correctly. They have been having problems with misalignment for a long time sadly. I have seen the  Fox version which look ok,  but I have never used them (so far !!).

 

I bought the Fox version, and have replaced the A5's transfers with those. Looks much better.

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That's looking good, presumably to be LNER green rather than GCR livery?

 

I did one of these decades ago, using the K's wheels and a Portescap, it runs and pulls well but not atypically for back then I didn't fit any brakes - well they weren't in the kit is my excuse! I've always thought I should remedy this flaw, and wondered what you had in mind for the same? I might take off and paint the wheels at the same time, as I think I've now just enough skill to do a basic lining job.

 

John.

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21 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

That's looking good, presumably to be LNER green rather than GCR livery?

 

Correct, post-1928 so large letters on tender & large numbers on cabside (and also dictates the various boiler fitments). I will be using Fox Transfers for the letters & numbers, currently debating whether to use transfers for the black/white lining or to get it hand-lined.

 

21 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

I did one of these decades ago, using the K's wheels and a Portescap, it runs and pulls well but not atypically for back then I didn't fit any brakes - well they weren't in the kit is my excuse! I've always thought I should remedy this flaw, and wondered what you had in mind for the same? I might take off and paint the wheels at the same time, as I think I've now just enough skill to do a basic lining job.

  

If you look further back up this thread to the last pictures of the A5, you'll see what the brakes look like on that. I intend to do same for the B2. Specifically, obtain two plastic chassis base plates from the Bachmann D11 (available as a spare from Bachmann), cut off the brake shoes, attach them at the top to 0.7mm wire hangers attached to the chassis, and at the bottom to Mainly Trains brake rodding. The plastic shoes ensure no shorting.  It was reasonably straightforward with the A5 as the chassis had 0.7mm holes pre-drilled in the right place. The B2 has no such holes, the chassis sides are just brass rectangles, and don't extend far enough at one end. It's my next job so I'll post back here when I have worked something out.

 

The front bogie is also from a Bachmann D11 spare but needed two springs as the B2 is a heavy old lump. 

 

The backhead was a donation from the G-Train Locomotive Works / Graeme King Joint Venture that is creating B3 and B7 kits. Rest of the cab is scratchbuilt, apart from the screw reverser.

 

The tender is standard GCR type and is a Bachmann J11 spare. This is handy as it means it's DCC-ready and has pick ups. I have the loco so I can either run it picking up on its own or also from the tender, by adding a couple of connectors into the wiring. Useful when still under construction.

 

Motor is Mashima and gearbox is Branch Lines. It runs really nicely but is slightly under-powered, I should have gone for the next motor up.

  

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Added brake gear, the prominent steam pipe that runs under the chassis, sand pipes and the small steam pipes that exhaust under the cab steps. 

 

The leading brake shoes are not attached at the top, as the chassis sides do not extend far enough. 

 

The under-chassis steam pipe is removable so I can get at the grub screw holding the gear to the axle, and slightly off-centre to avoid the gear teeth.

 

 

  

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  • 5 months later...

B2 finally complete, just need to add glazing for cab front windows.  Lining by Ian Rathbone, except boiler bands (Fox) and the lining around the nameplates. Numbers and letters are also Fox, they look a bit oversized so some toning down needed. Nameplates by Modelmaster.

 

 

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  • 11 months later...

I have a Hornby B17/4 Footballer which I bought in 1982 just before I went to university.  For the time it wasn't at all bad, and it's one of the few models from back then that has survived onto my present setup.  I decided to smarten it up, but not do anything that would require a respray, so cosmetic stuff. I bought the current Hornby B17/1 detail pack, Fox Transfers black/white lining for A1/A3 (handily the B17 has same size driving wheels, bogie wheels, windows, splashers, and buffer beam), already had Fox Transfers gold letters/numbers, and added lamp brackets and cab seats. I've renumbered it to 2858 Newcastle United (my team) although 2858 only ever carried that name in its trials; for some reason it went into service as The Essex Regiment, swapped tenders and was sent to GE section.  It looks so much better. Still to add are tender brake standards and reversing handle (on order) and I will have a go at some more red lining. The addition of the front steps and drain pipes mean it just gets round a 4th radius curve.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • scratcher changed the title to GW & GC Joint Line late 1930s - ex-GCR loco kit builds

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