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Max Legroom

Strachur - BR blue in the West Highlands

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25 minutes ago, Max Legroom said:

I've pushed the boat out and bought a couple of 1980s items of stock. Loch Awe is sound fitted, my first sound-fitted loco, and the PRA gives a feel of the WHL though out of place in Strachur.

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_2019_10/IMG_1080.jpg.166440f8c0551ef5ac64c9491cc1913c.jpg

 

I've got enough stock to run a 1980s timetable. 

 

The 37 has really shown the flaws in my pointwork at the station throat with sound cutting out in places so I'm going to pull up all of the points and add juicers or possibly point motors. The pointwork in the fiddleyard has juicers and runs flawlessly.

 

One thing to point out about the lovely Kernow PRA is that the buffers are very long so the screw link couplings have to be installed slightly proud of the bufferbeams to avoid derailing when coupled to adjacent stock.

 

The biggest problem with DCC sound is that it is very difficult to go back to no sound!

Hi,

 

In my experience, adding a frog juicer to the points isfairly simple and can be done with the points in situ.  Drill a small hole through your baseboard in the vee of point crossing, thread a wire through, solder to the inside of ythe vee then connect to your juicer.  I've done this in N gauge with points already laid. It also helps to bond the stock rails to the swith rails, and this can also be done in situ.  Just make sure to clean the spot where you want to solder thoroughly first.

 

If you like operating points by hand then why go to the expense of adding point motors, more witing etc?  On my curent N gauge project I've gone back to using wire-in-tube after trials and trribulations with point motors and servos.  Simple, cheap, reliable and satisfying to use.

 

Roja

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Hi Roja

 

Thank you for your advice. I'll have a go at wiring for the juicer in situ. It would certainly make things easier. I must admit that I quite like to change the points by hand as it gets me up close to the action and saves quite a bit of hassle. Wire in tube or good old coat hanger wire through the front of the baseboard would work nicely.

 

All the best

 

Max 

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How have I missed this one!

 

Lovely layout, one I've thought of doing many times when flicking through my Ian Futurs books. Of the many layouts I have in my head I keep coming back to a play on Killin.

 

I think frog juicers in situ should be easily achieved without ripping up the track. 

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On 22/10/2019 at 11:49, Rhb Simon said:

How have I missed this one!

 

Lovely layout, one I've thought of doing many times when flicking through my Ian Futurs books. Of the many layouts I have in my head I keep coming back to a play on Killin.

 

I think frog juicers in situ should be easily achieved without ripping up the track. 

Thanks Simon

 

Something based on Killin would be great. I'm looking at the new Peco Highland signal box and thinking of the possibilities. I started a layout based on an imaginary line to Portmahomack but never got beyond basic scenery before the foam core card baseboard split when I inadvertently lent on one end!

 

All the best

 

Max

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Here are a few pix of an uncharacteristically busy goods yard.

IMG_0088.jpg.34bf7fab6cd542190d641dd6eed04415.jpg

 

IMG_0089.jpg.d5bb317df4c197c7e1022e41b1e89dd9.jpg

 

IMG_0090.jpg.aa78bdf4e1645396faaaf2cb7e56121f.jpg

 

IMG_0091.jpg.b83c3263372e46b6a539065dcb7deb60.jpg

 

Finally, who wouldn't fancy a few days in this caravan? Views across the tracks to Loch Fyne, a choice of indoor or outdoor dunny, and power/water in situ (see the fresh tarmac crossing the yard).

 

IMG_0092.jpg.9a544d5fc761e682edf87ee7cf5bb43e.jpg

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Great little Scottish layout and thanks for uploading more photos.

 

A couple of questions regarding the road over-bridge :-

1. What materials and construction method did you use for the bridge stonework supports?

2. How did you weather the bridge girders?

 

Regards

Mark

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5 hours ago, 27016 said:

Great little Scottish layout and thanks for uploading more photos.

 

A couple of questions regarding the road over-bridge :-

1. What materials and construction method did you use for the bridge stonework supports?

2. How did you weather the bridge girders?

 

Regards

Mark

Thanks Mark

 

The stonework is Wills which is thick enough to support the bridge without any extra support. There are some plastic I-beam girders under the road surface to keep everything engineeringly sound. The bridge sides are also Wills and the weathering is Games Workshop Agrax Earthshade wash and Thyphus Rust with a small amount of orange dry-brushed to highlight the rust. I tried not to overdo the orange!

 

All the best

 

Max

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10 hours ago, Max Legroom said:

Thanks Mark

 

The stonework is Wills which is thick enough to support the bridge without any extra support. There are some plastic I-beam girders under the road surface to keep everything engineeringly sound. The bridge sides are also Wills and the weathering is Games Workshop Agrax Earthshade wash and Thyphus Rust with a small amount of orange dry-brushed to highlight the rust. I tried not to overdo the orange!

 

All the best

 

Max

Thanks Max for your reply.

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Hi Max, can't believe I had missed this until now, what a fantastic layout; I too like the Ian Futers plans and books and also came to the conclusion that the imagined route via "Rest and be Thankful" would involve some serious gradients and tunnels!

 

Very nice work, will follow with interest.

 

Regards,

Martyn.

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Hi Martyn

 

I have to admit that following your Crinan layout was a big inspiration for me to get on with this project.

 

Best wishes

 

Max

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