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Jon4470
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Since my last post I have completed the loco detailing and built the tender.

 

I haven't quite been able to finish the all painting though.....

 

F1639641-45F3-42FF-8982-9FDCDD3E2D87.jpeg.fd0ec85494847fdd7f5f6941cb83932d.jpeg

 

 

 

Once I have the main colours on (black!.....and red buffer beams) then I’ll move onto lining and transfers.

 

And now I’ve noticed after taking the photo that I have forgotten to add the  inspection cover on the splasher just below the Westinghouse pump. I’ve been working from a photo of No 2011 in 1937 that was taken from the other side.....and just forgot to check for completeness on the right hand side. Classic case of more haste and less speed!

 

I do want to get this loco off the work bench though........want to clear space for “Barber” - which is due to be released soon........

 

Jon

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I was thinking about the inspection cover during the day (in between working:D). I realised that I had one of these “in stock” (from North Eastern Kits) and it has an inspection cover:

DB25370B-9318-4634-AC57-715EAD3AD5F1.jpeg.9c93d2ce2978d2c0db7bcdf8d6d399d3.jpeg

 

 

 

So I copied the outline onto some plastic card and I think I’m nearly there:

14C1AAB4-9937-4609-AD74-D46C97140DC0.jpeg.75c5fb670cf88527860561bb0a458f2a.jpeg

 

 

 

Some more sanding to do but it seems close to the correct shape now.

 

 

I also started to make the air reservoir that goes beneath the tender rear buffer beam. 8mm tube from B&Q with the ends filled.

41778EF8-E21F-4813-B20D-79D6929B2FA1.jpeg.e3e167e10bdd937fcf9eceeec2ffede0.jpeg

 

 

 

Hopefully should look OK tucked away in the chassis.

 

Jon

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While just finishing off the D20, my thoughts moved along to another stalled project.

 

This one is the Diagram 29 Brake First 5 compartment that I need for the Northern Belle. I started this while ago, and then stalled, because I got the side lengths wrong. I’m creating this carriage from a mix of a standard corridor first and a brake third.

 

Plenty of measuring, looking at the diagrams and photos meant that I figured out a solution for both sides. (At least I think I have.........only time will tell!)

 

The side that I had already started needed to be lengthened by 4mm. So Out came the cutting implements...time to insert a panel:

 

C841B720-B9F6-4AA6-95F5-EF659EA033A5.jpeg.740fbe13ebb681c98eb822d744444eeb.jpeg

 

 

 

Close up of new panel ( donated from a BCK side that is being used as the main donor)

 

45D53CE8-6B64-4F5B-8BAE-DDD67C8D11C6.jpeg.d9aa3b1aba9eaf174f1e18a32a449785.jpeg

 

 

 

All soldered in position:

 

81BB3F1F-556F-4CFE-9FD7-BD2C64A8EEE8.jpeg.a6ff1dfdeaf9e1f5f25ea9e5f6915a85.jpeg

 

 

 

 

I got this done while the the rest of the household slumbered this morning :)

 

(Time to own up :).........the new panel should really be one panel...and be narrower....and the section between the middle and right hand doors should be lengthened by about 2mm.....but at that point I decided it was getting too difficult....and anyway - who else knows the exact layout of the diagram 29.....all three that were built!<_<)

 

 

I’ve also added some of the lower panels now....but stopped now because I need to cut one panel to size and decide how the create the vertical beading for the cut end.

 

Jon

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I don’t know what’s come over me!

 

More progress this evening.... there are now two sides:

 

9DEDF590-8290-49E7-9D9E-87197E8DBA25.jpeg.8d33b90ff5dd75ebb249d9d2abb5ccbe.jpeg

 

 

 

Top side is the corridor side and bottom one is the compartment side.

 

Most of the panels are just tacked in place at the moment- so quite a bit of soldering to do to finish this off. 

 

Next job job is to cut the brake van section to length.

 

By the way,the solution to the panel problem from this mornings post can be seen at the left hand end of the top side in the photo. A longer panel was cut to length minus about 0.5mm. A piece of 0.45 brass wire was inserted to for the vertical beading at the extreme left. It was then filed flush with the panel beading. There is a slight gap in the top corner....I must have cut the brass wire a smidge too short. Some solder should fill that nicely.

 

 

Jon

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18 minutes ago, Chas Levin said:

Nice going Jon - I have a similar cut-and-shut coach project on my list, interested to see how you get on with this...

 

This is the first time that I have done a cut and shut -  in brass at least. It is going surprisingly well so far..........

 

Today I have “ discovered” that the BFK doesn’t Have a ducket in the Brake section.... so now I need a replacement panel:(. (I think that there is a suitable one from the donor etch)

 

From what I can tell, the key issue will be to see if the overall length turns out to be correct ( aside form whether it all looks straight, sticks together etc:D)

 

Jon

 

 

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The brake third is designed to have a guards ducket which is fitted in place of a panel in the position marked “A” on this photo

 

C07506E0-FFB6-4B2B-B066-195FE3795A04.jpeg.f34d592e77ef82f69845ff8c7979cd84.jpeg

 

 

 

The simplest approach was to cut the whole end section off and replace it. The score line is along the door outline - marked with the red arrow.

 

Ten minutes later we have:

 

20FA38E2-751F-4FBF-A2A5-5A3BF4AC761D.jpeg.3806ff84e131770ebf5df88baff2b183.jpeg

 

 

 

 

After that I fitted the droplights and hinges while the sides were not attached to anything. Finally, the ends and sides were put together to form the van section like this

 

4C7B83A6-1214-419C-9EB5-922A52E74605.jpeg.6a419d9d6e858a31cdc4c4a7bc308c96.jpeg

 

 

 

I’m pleased with the progress this weekend. 

 

Jon

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During the (working) week I find that I’m only able to fit in small chunks of modelling time. Nevertheless I was able to progress the sides of the carriage and fit the droplights and door hinges. So I ended up with two sides thus:

 

C465B94C-A128-4B6D-89B8-360CD3E294F3.jpeg.51df62df1d7033e82bb8637f97755662.jpeg

 

 

 

The front of the carriage is to the right.

 

Today I was able get these fully prepped and then attached to the other section.....it starts to look like a carriage now

 

64075217-2B4B-4B9F-B457-0F85BE91DFE7.jpeg.3518e62c569aeeebbe79891acfe36fd3.jpeg

 

 

 

It is actually sitting on the floor pan....and seems to be square! I’m going to have a real good look tomorrow to make sure that it really is square - it would be easy for one side to be longer than the other after all the cutting and filing.

 

There are a number of experiments on this build.

 

I’ve decided to leave the door handles and grab rails off until I have finished the painting and lining. That will make lining easier but I’ll have to glue the fittings in.

 

I have also soldered the internal corridor handrail in place while the side was flat. It is much easier to get it horizontal at the stage. The challenge will be to keep paint off it! (Hence the masking tape in the above photo).

 

Finally I have also put the double sided tape (that will hold the windows) in place. Again much easier to get in place while the sides are flat. Hopefully, after painting, I’ll be able to pull off the the backing paper and stick the windows in.

 

The photo below should show this and the corridor handrail

 

09C357DD-BD56-4BDE-9EA7-876E621476C4.jpeg.4ca9fcd457da581820d5655a1430769b.jpeg

 

 

 

The white strips are the backing for the double sided tape. The window “glass” will be inserted from below - the top will be held in the slot above the window opening and the bottom will be stuck to the tape.....That’s the theory anyway....

 

And I’ve also made some notes about the next carriage.......one of these is to use about a quarter of the solder that has gone on the inside of this carriage:)

Apologies for the blobby soldering.

 

 

Jon

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I agree with AdeMoore - good stuff, Jon! Blobby soldering on the inside, where it's invisible, doesn't matter in my book and if it's in the cause of more robust fixings, I think it's a Thoroughtly Good Thing :).

The outside looks beautifully clean and free of any solder that I can see, so I think you are to be congratulated...

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On 30/10/2021 at 22:53, AdeMoore said:

Coming along rather well Jon, I’d be pleased with it if that was my work.

keep the pics coming!

Cheers

 

11 hours ago, Chas Levin said:

I agree with AdeMoore - good stuff, Jon! Blobby soldering on the inside, where it's invisible, doesn't matter in my book and if it's in the cause of more robust fixings, I think it's a Thoroughtly Good Thing :).

The outside looks beautifully clean and free of any solder that I can see, so I think you are to be congratulated...

 

Thank you both for the positive comments. Maybe I should clarify my thoughts a bit...

 

I’m pleased with the carriage - after all it is the first time that I have “cut and shut” a kit and I was not certain that it would turn out presentable. It is true that there are a couple of small compromises as a result of the donor parts, but nothing major. 

 

When I build a kit I like to improve on the last one - adding extra detail, improving my methods etc.

That is why, On this kit, there are some modifications to my usual sequence of assembly as described in my last post. I’ll see if the help......

 

Improvements for the next kit are

1) concentrate on using less solder

2) consider forming the turn under to the sides before fitting the lower panels. That should make it easier to form.....but I’d need to form the side and panels separately....and accurately 

 

Anyway, as far as the model is concerned, it nearly has a roof now. Hopefully that will be fixed on during the week. (And I want complete the last few bits on the D20)

 

Jon

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11 hours ago, micklner said:

You will be very lucky to roll the tumblehome and panels in seperate parts and then find they fit well, much easier when soldered together !!.

 

Hows the A2 ?

 

 

IMHO

Hello Mick

 

Thanks for the reply and, at the risk of sounding like I’m contradicting  myself, I think I agree with you.

 

Once the sides are fully soldered they are quite stiff and it occurred to me that they are effectively double thickness in places. So, I find that I need quite a lot of force to bend the sides and it takes a long time to get the smooth curve that the turn under should have. There is also the risk of damage to the upper panels if, or when:(, I slip....I wonder how I know....

 

Two experiments come to mind....bend the sides and panels separately......or solder the panels on one edge only (top or bottom) which should allow the side a bit more flexibility while forming the side and panel at the same time.

 

Also I had a thought after reading your comment,  and realised that I can test this on the remains of the BCK sides ( I used this initially as a donor). At least that way I’m not messing about with a real build.

 

 

As for the A2, it is still in “photographic grey”! I’m building up for a painting session...followed by a lining session.

 

Jon

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Jon ,

    The problem with seperate rolling of each panel,  is achieving the exact same curve on each piece. I would think it will be  virtually impossible , any variation will probably warp the side along its length.

I have never had any problem with rolling (so far) , Brass is fairly soft . You could heat them to red heat and quench first , problem again, then they are too soft and will dent etc , so not a good idea .

I would not solder along one edge only , the pieces will not bend on the same radius, they will be too flexible.

 

Dont forget , you only need to slightly curve the the bottom of the sides anyway. 

I have rolled them in my Rolling Bars the best way for me so far , or using a vice or workmate place in the jaws (protect with card or thin wood) with the part to be curved only exposed and bend over a steel round bar or wood with a curved edge.

 

 

Good luck !!

 

 

Mick

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Gents, interesting question: the last coach I built was a D&S ECJS one and Danny advises forming the curve in the main side on its own first, then forming curves in each overlay piece to match. I went and double-checked that I remembered this instruction correctly before posting, as I built it a while ago (and the one before that even longer ago), but I clearly remember doing it that way and I didn't think I'd have gone against Danny's instructions, as I wasn't that confident then (not sure I am now, come to that!).

I also remember a discussion somewhere - it must have been on a forum I think - to the effect that trying to form the curve with soldered layers might very well cause breaks in the solder joints or uneven bends, due to differing stresses between brass and solder - but Mick, it sounds like you happily bend soldered layers? I hadn't come across anyone doing so without problems, so I was actually quite relieved that it was apparently OK to form the curves separately!

I didn't actually find it too difficult to do it that way: the main side curve having been formed, I marked each panel and each recess so they all had individual places, then set about forming each panel to match the curve of its particular place (because, of course, no matter how carefully I'd tried to form the curve in the main side, it deviated by minute amounts along its length, amounts large enough to produce gaps, unless each overlay piece was precisely tailored to fit).

Anyway, just throwing in my experience FWIW - I know you two have more modelling years between you than (probably) my entire lifespan! :)

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It works for me !!

I am only talking about rolling a Coach Tumblehome, no more than perhaps 5mm deep and a couple of mm in depth at the base .

If the joint split which I doubt very much  on such a small curved area , simply place against a Jewellers soldering pad and re solder the area. If it did fail, probably not enough solder used and /or cleaning of the metal beforehand, so perhaps it will be a poor joint anyway.

 

Cheers The Oldie !!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

 

I’ve managed to make progress on the carriage....it now has a roof and underframe:

 

F1EA54B3-C2E7-47F5-B2C1-AE75624ED3F7.jpeg.4659b28519699fd7dd28f39d1b04085e.jpeg

 

50F3789E-8322-440B-B2BD-F24CCAB6728B.jpeg.000d5fd115b6229da0defb4671511cd8.jpeg

 

 

 

 

There are still plenty of details to fit on the roof....but there’s a bit more filling and sanding to do first.

 

I thought the underframe was finished......until I noticed the footboard has come loose under the brake compartment in the second photo! 

 

On the body I think it just needs the ventilators above the doors.

 

Jon

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Hi Jon and everyone else who has contributed to this thread.  I stumbled into it quite by chance earlier today when I was trying to answer a question about "shunting practices" on the email discussion forum on something called sremg.org.uk and being somewhat familiar with Bilton Junction I was actually looking for a track diagram to illustrate the point I was making there and I discovered this thread.  I am a semi regular RM Web user but not in this sort of arena.

 

As it happens, the point I was trying to discuss in SREMG is actually what I believe is an unanswered question you have from page 6 of this thread about how the main line sidings and full coal wagons were shunted after the loco and empties had left!

 

OK, some context.  My father, Ernie Cowton, was born in 1925 and grew up in Bilton, initially down near Dragon Junction but latterly in King Edwards Drive.  He was at primary school with the son of the signalman at Bilton Junction, I have the name but I probably shouldn't publish it here because of GDPR.  Anyway, in his early days he spent a lot of time "hanging out" with his friend in the signal box and ultimately on the narrow gauge complex as well.  He told me that he had driven at least one of the NG locos - possibly Spencer, I can't rightly remember that detail.  Anyway, he left Harrogate Grammar School at the age of 14 and took up an apprenticeship at York Works but very quickly decided to volunteer at the age of 16 (1941) to join the RN where he spent almost the rest of his working life.  In my youth my grandparents still lived in Bilton and we were frequent visitors there.  Sadly he died in January 2018 but for some years he and I nurtured an idea that we might build a model of the Exchange Sidings at Bilton and I have done some early research into the project including getting copies of the 25" to the mile OS maps.  What I am going to present is a note of a conversation he and I had several times over the years, on one occasion in the 70s actually standing on the site of the SG sidings.  

 

So, what he told me was that the loaded standard gauge wagons were brought in to the sidings - and the description Jon posted some time ago about the consist of the train chimed with what he told me.  The loaded wagons were pushed into the siding that was closest to the down SG running line heading north towards the viaduct and the brakes were pinned down.  This siding was inclined so that at its northern end it was very visibly above both the running lines and the outboard siding that was on the edge of the retaining wall. 

 

Shortly before he died I attended the funeral of one of his sisters and took the opportunity to visit the site (and the Gardners Arms) to see what I could see, because I knew what I was looking for I was able to make out that this, although now seriously overgrown, was still visible to me.

 

You can sort-of make out this raised siding in this photo I took when I was in Bilton for my Aunt's funeral:

IMG_20180109_094641.jpg.8d97c587315ed1e8078cb5b162b77a77.jpg

 

So, after the SG train had departed and the Gas Works crew were ready to start unloading the SG wagons they followed the following procedure:

  • A cut of about 3 wagons were uncoupled from the other wagons
  • The brakes were gradually released until these wagons ran down under gravity over the scissors crossover coming to rest more or less over the coal drops
  • These wagons were then unloaded through their floor doors through the drops into the NG hopper wagons.
  • Once empty, the wagons were connected to a continuous steel hawser which the NG loco could also attach to on the lower level.
  • The NG loco would then slowly drag the hawser and thus the empty SG wagons into the outboard siding.
  • The process then repeated with the loaded NG hoppers being removed when full and fresh loaded SG wagons run down and emptied

When finished the inclined siding was empty and the level siding contained a row of empty 7-plank coal wagons and the whole process could be run again with the arrival of the next train of full coal wagons and empty RECTANKS.

 

Sadly we never got to take this plan anywhere beyond an armchair exercise and I became firmly entrenched in the LSWR/SR/BR(S) scene as well as the MRTV project, but maybe one day when I get my round tuit I could have a go...

 

Jon, can I congratulate you on your modelling, particularly those coaches; as a weathering and painting demonstrator I am both impressed and jealous!

 

And can I ask you a question?  In the back of my mind I am sure that I have seen a diagram of one of those NG hoppers that had a bogie at one end and a single axle at the other.  Am I right or am I mis-remembering something else?  Unfortunately all my books are in store pending a house move so I have no ability to easily check at the moment.

 

Well done, keep up the good work, I am now following this topic!

 

Elliott

 

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Hello Elliot.

 

Welcome to the topic! Thank you for the kind comments about the models.

 

Even more thanks, though, for posting the description of the shunting.  It is fantastic to have that type of information passed on.  I think most photos of the drops show 3 standard gauge wagons above them - so that makes sense as well.

 

As an aside, it should be interesting trying to model empty wagons being shunted by the narrow gauge and a steel hawser:) - I’m aware that Highlevel do a fly shunt arrangement...but I bet the motor fills the wagon!

 

With regard to the wagon you mention - yes there was one with a bogie at one end and a pair of wheels at the other. It was an open wagon (not one of the hoppers) and, allegedly it was “home made” by the gas works. I think it was wooden and used for loco coal. It will have to be modelled at some point!

 

Jon

 

PS I grew up in the south and therefore have a soft spot for all (railway) things Southern!

 

 

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1 hour ago, Jon4470 said:

 

As an aside, it should be interesting trying to model empty wagons being shunted by the narrow gauge and a steel hawser:) - I’m aware that Highlevel do a fly shunt arrangement...but I bet the motor fills the wagon!

 

 

Morning Jon

 

You would be surprised what is available these days.  We have a couple of 0-9 and 0-16.5 modellers in the Fareham Club so I get exposed to quite a lot of this stuff, plus as a Southern modeller I have taken a lot of interest in the kit EMU scene and there are a lot of 10' wheelbase motor bogies available that can be/already come DCC chipped and are sufficiently "low profile" that they will fit under the floor of an ordinary coach - so fitting them under the floor of a wagon shouldn't be an issue.  Spud, Tenshodo and Black Beetle are names that readily spring to mind.

 

If you have a DCC'ed 5-plank in each cut of wagons then the issue becomes how you synchronise the movement of the wagon and the NG loco.  The way we chewed over doing it was to consist the wagon in the cut and the narrow gauge loco so that as the loco moved backwards the wagon cut moved forward into the siding.   

 

BUT the trick was going to be in how you DCC'ed the NG loco - which I am sure you will agree would be near-on impossible with that kit.  The secret was that the line would almost certainly be operated "one engine in steam" which meant that there could only ever be one loco in the NG exchange siding at a time.  The plan we hatched was to DCC the NG track, not the loco(s).  Does that make sense?  You fit a chip under the baseboard that feeds the entire NG complex and - let's say that chip's address is 003 - you drive loco 003 to control any movement on the NG sidings but when you want to do the hawser shunt you consist 003 and - let's say - loco 100 which is the first cut of three minerals and then perform the move.   

 

If you wanted to be really gucci you would also have a motor that you consist into the mix that caused the hawser to move at the same time.

 

What you need to know about me is that I "plan" from an exhibition point of view so:

  • The screen/flip card/whatever that tells the punter what is going on would announce that the NG loco is now using the hawser to move the empties on the upper level. 
  • The punter would see the NG loco, the hawser and the cut of 3 wagons all moving  in a synchronised way and would register that fact,
  • The fact that neither the loco nor the wagons are physically attached to the hawser is largely irrelevant because the brain will fill in the gaps and see what it wants (or expects) to see. 

Have you ever come across wire fencing on an N Gauge layout?  Our usual "method" for that is to plant small square posts (usually welding rod) in a straight line - and that's it, no wires; the eye simply fills in the missing details for you which in this case means that the punter's eye will "think" it can see the 1" diameter strops that attach the loco and wagons to the hawser.  After all, 1" strop scales down to 0.3mm - that's little more than one strand of a 16/2 wire...

 

Hope that's given you more food for thought.

 

Elliott

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8 hours ago, DutyDruid said:

 

Morning Jon

 

You would be surprised what is available these days.  We have a couple of 0-9 and 0-16.5 modellers in the Fareham Club so I get exposed to quite a lot of this stuff, plus as a Southern modeller I have taken a lot of interest in the kit EMU scene and there are a lot of 10' wheelbase motor bogies available that can be/already come DCC chipped and are sufficiently "low profile" that they will fit under the floor of an ordinary coach - so fitting them under the floor of a wagon shouldn't be an issue.  Spud, Tenshodo and Black Beetle are names that readily spring to mind.

 

If you have a DCC'ed 5-plank in each cut of wagons then the issue becomes how you synchronise the movement of the wagon and the NG loco.  The way we chewed over doing it was to consist the wagon in the cut and the narrow gauge loco so that as the loco moved backwards the wagon cut moved forward into the siding.   

 

BUT the trick was going to be in how you DCC'ed the NG loco - which I am sure you will agree would be near-on impossible with that kit.  The secret was that the line would almost certainly be operated "one engine in steam" which meant that there could only ever be one loco in the NG exchange siding at a time.  The plan we hatched was to DCC the NG track, not the loco(s).  Does that make sense?  You fit a chip under the baseboard that feeds the entire NG complex and - let's say that chip's address is 003 - you drive loco 003 to control any movement on the NG sidings but when you want to do the hawser shunt you consist 003 and - let's say - loco 100 which is the first cut of three minerals and then perform the move.   

 

If you wanted to be really gucci you would also have a motor that you consist into the mix that caused the hawser to move at the same time.

 

What you need to know about me is that I "plan" from an exhibition point of view so:

  • The screen/flip card/whatever that tells the punter what is going on would announce that the NG loco is now using the hawser to move the empties on the upper level. 
  • The punter would see the NG loco, the hawser and the cut of 3 wagons all moving  in a synchronised way and would register that fact,
  • The fact that neither the loco nor the wagons are physically attached to the hawser is largely irrelevant because the brain will fill in the gaps and see what it wants (or expects) to see. 

Have you ever come across wire fencing on an N Gauge layout?  Our usual "method" for that is to plant small square posts (usually welding rod) in a straight line - and that's it, no wires; the eye simply fills in the missing details for you which in this case means that the punter's eye will "think" it can see the 1" diameter strops that attach the loco and wagons to the hawser.  After all, 1" strop scales down to 0.3mm - that's little more than one strand of a 16/2 wire...

 

Hope that's given you more food for thought.

 

Elliott

 

Hi Elliott

 

Definitely food for thought!

 

I like lateral thinking - DCC the NG layout and not the loco. The overall consist proposal makes sense as well. 

Now, I had not been planning to use DCC, but I guess that I could use it just on the NG section (using the method that you describe) and, maybe, also just have the Standard gauge sidings as “optional for DCC” for use when shunting.

That way I would be able to create the consist as in your post.

 

I also tend to think in terms of the flip card mentality I.e “ the next move is....” when planning the sequence of moves. I do see that this would help to fill the gaps for anyone watching the shunting.

 

I will mull this over......need to build the base boards first though!

 

All this electrical stuff has the potential (pun intended) to really confuse me!

 

Jon

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On 21/11/2021 at 15:53, Jon4470 said:

 

 

I’ve managed to make progress on the carriage....it now has a roof and underframe:

 

A973A80E-0EF7-4D30-9E42-AB067FC70256.jpeg.66d18fac98e2b36a753756ead399b66d.jpeg

 

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There are still plenty of details to fit on the roof....but there’s a bit more filling and sanding to do first.

 

I thought the underframe was finished......until I noticed the footboard has come loose under the brake compartment in the second photo! 

 

On the body I think it just needs the ventilators above the doors.

 

Jon

Lovely work Jon, beautiful vehicle! :)

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On 22/11/2021 at 21:41, Chas Levin said:

Lovely work Jon, beautiful vehicle! :)

Thank you Chas.

 

One thing that I am really pleased about, is that the joins between all the various bits of donor panels are (more or less) invisible. It did have the potential to go completely wrong! 

 

So, that success got me thinking about a long term project idea.......

 

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This is an etch that I got from Peter K ( think that was the name). It’s a Diagram 79 ECJS Dining Composite and runs on two 6 wheel bogies. However, there are a few problems with this project! 

First - the doors should be recessed and not flush.

Second - the sides have been etched as mirror images...and they weren’t! One side is correct. The other side needs a whole section of windows and a door to be re-arranged/ replaced - the bit outlined in green.

 

With my new found confidence I’m thinking what could be so difficult about all of that?:)

 

I read up on Graeme Kings topic on the LNER forum (saw that you had commented on it Chas). Most interesting build and it confirms the other problem....no one knows much about these carriages after they were built. Things like gas or electric light etc

 

Anyway that etch is back in its box, it’s a project for 2022 I think (maybe):)

 

The next up on the build list, once I’ve cleared the carriage and D20, is this little beauty ( that dropped through my letter box a couple of weeks ago)

 

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The loco doesn’t have a wonky chimney and bent cab....that’s just the paper folds!

 

Jon

 

 

Edited by Jon4470
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Haha - I have a couple of Peter K ECJS etches too Jon, with exactly the same idea! :lol:

 

There's another very interesting thread on the LNER forum about the innaccuracies of those etches compared to the diagrams and we're by no means the first to look at them as a project : https://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8822&hilit=Peter+ECJS .

 

Like you, I have them in a box as a project for the (hopefully medium-term) future; I have two, I think, bought several years ago, took a long time to arrive but got them in the end. The brass is very thin, isn't it?

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